[Mit_Boost]

Originally Posted by GEOS07335i

You mean I could get in trouble for buying a counterfeit item? I just dont understand why TIAL lets them get away with this.

You don't realize how hard it is to enforce copyrights in foreign countries. If the foreign regulatory agencies (e.g., police) aren't working with you, it's nearly impossible to stop it.

Just to illustrate how out of control it is, there are fake Apple stores in China

http://www.businessinsider.com/insid...kunming-2015-9

[GEOS07335i]

Yeah but eBay is an American company. They should be able to ban the vendor if the vendor is selling counterfit merchandise It's also ebays reputation on the line. What if an unspecting customer found out they were buying fake goods they would be pissed an could really hurt thier business. Just doesn't make sense.

[rosullivan04]

Originally Posted by puppydax

subbing to see what issues you'll have when you actually try to go FBO.

Hard same, I'm interested if your #6 rod bends or if you bend one of the other ones

[GEOS07335i]

Originally Posted by rosullivan04

Hard same, I'm interested if your #6 rod bends or if you bend one of the other ones

Not sure I follow why would I bend the rod in #6 cyl? Haven't had misfire issues since I swapped O2 sensors.

You saying you had eBay fuel injectors and you bent one of your rods because you were running FBO and had a major misfire?

[rosullivan04]

Originally Posted by GEOS07335i

Not sure I follow why would I bend the rod in #6 cyl? Haven't had misfire issues since I swapped O2 sensors.

You saying you had eBay fuel injectors and you bent one of your rods because you were running FBO and had a major misfire?

More worried you may have weak injectors. What index are they? Once you start laying down power they are going to be stressed and any weakness in them will become apparent. I was running genuine BMW injectors, just happened to be unlucky and have one fail during boost.

[GEOS07335i]

So I started installing my DP's today. I decided to do this my self but have two questions. First there is a bracket connected to the bell-housing. Does that stay on or do I remove it?
Second question how do you remove the connectors on the post cat O2 sensors. Cant figure it out.

[GEOS07335i]

Wow this was a long weekend. Finally finished kind of. I got one little issue to iron out with my prtotype IC but everything is in and working. Here are some pics. Next couple of weeks I'll getting my dyno.

Oh still need to install the charge pipe. Just waiting on the BOV still. I guess if I can get 425hp I should be happy. Forget the 425rwp for now. I think I'll need a few more mods. Gees it's crazy even if I get inlets along with the ARM FBO package and MHD tune your looking at almost 500hp for under $1100 if you install your self.

$688 FBO Package
$150 for tune MHD $99 flasher +$50 tune
$250 for inlets
_______
$1100---> 500 HP

[GEOS07335i]

Just wanted to close the loop on this thread in case someone is also looking for a budget build. Although I'm a bit short on my original goals of 425whp.

With the following mods I was able to get 377whp / 438rtq I think very respectable numbers considering the $ per horsepower. If I wanted to get to 425whp/500hp I would simply add a L2 LPFP and run an E50 mix. If I wanted to achieve around 400whp I would add a good set of inlets.

Attached is the dyno.
What's not mentioned but absolutly needs to be considered wich add's considerable cost are the maintenance that's required to run properly.

Depending on mileage the following should be done prior to installing your goodie pack
100K. At the very least coils and new plugs will minimize those pesky misfire issues.

* Change plugs run one step colder NGK's gaped at .018 this should help minimize timing corrections if you have some. Or add 1G of E85 to a full tank. (used to help reduce timing corrections)
* Walnut Blasting
* New Coils
* Strongly advised that Injectors are at INDEX 10-12
* VCG / OFHG leaks should be addressed. Can be related to boost leaks.
* VANOS Solenoids are good for 100K I swap them out.
* PCV Valve / Flapper Breather Hose.
* Pre Cat O2 Sensors

GOODIE PACK
*ARM DP's
*ARM DCI
*ARM 7" FMIC
*ARM CP with knock off Tial Q BOV
*MHD Stage 2 or 2+
*ALPINA Auto Flash (Free)

Now capture some datalogs and look for issues related to:
1) look for timing corrections
2) look for Fuel Rail pressure sensor (LPFP) (should be around 72 but will fluctuate)
3) look for fuel rail this is your HPFP under load if it drops below 1400 could be an issue.
4) compare target boost to actual boost. If you have more than 1 -1.5 psi diffrence you might have boost leak issues
5) WGDC check your waste gate duty cycle. I forget the numbers.

NOTE: I not 100% accurate on the Data logging. Recommend you double check but the idea is for you to check these things out when your datalogging.

Super Helpful document to help understand data logging in MHD: https://www.docdroid.net/IyQ24N5/int...d-datalogs.pdf


Once your comfortable that the car is running well then get that bad boy on a dyno.

[feuer]

Originally Posted by GEOS07335i

Wow this was a long weekend. Finally finished kind of. Here are some pics.
$1100---> 500 HP

2nd photo shows DP very close to subframe. I assume original OEM engine mounts that are 11y old and with over 100k need to be replaced. Look into it if you haven't already.

[GEOS07335i]

If the engine mounts were worn wouldn't wouldnt the DP's rub up against the sub frame? I would probably feel some sort of vibration in the cabin right? I don't feel any feedback. But yes original engine mounts.

[feuer]

Originally Posted by GEOS07335i

If the engine mounts were worn wouldn't wouldnt the DP's rub up against the sub frame? I would probably feel some sort of vibration in the cabin right? I don't feel any feedback. But yes original engine mounts.

Isn't a diesel or a 4 cyl for you too feel vibrations. Besides, no offense, but you don't know how it should truly feel since you got the car used with over 100k. Find my post on engine mounts. Right mounts are failing due to heat form turbos and DPs. Worn out mounts are #1 reason for broken charge pipes, broken power steering pump pulleys and DPs knocking on subframe.

[GEOS07335i]

Originally Posted by feuer

Isn't a diesel or a 4 cyl for you too feel vibrations. Besides, no offense, but you don't know how it should truly feel since you got the car used with over 100k. Find my post on engine mounts. Right mounts are failing due to heat form turbos and DPs. Worn out mounts are #1 reason for broken charge pipes, broken power steering pump pulleys and DPs knocking on subframe.

Not sure I agree with you there on the first part. At one point I had the DP's touching the sub frame and you could definitely feel the NVH in the cab once I did a slight readjustment and made some additional clearance by turning the DP's slightly and making sure it wasn't hitting vibrations were gone. It doesn't feel like a diesel unless your having rough idle witch I've experienced all to well in this platform.

[feuer]

Originally Posted by GEOS07335i

Not sure I agree with you there on the first part. At one point I had the DP's touching the sub frame and you could definitely feel the NVH in the cab once I did a slight readjustment and made some additional clearance by turning the DP's slightly and making sure it wasn't hitting vibrations were gone. It doesn't feel like a diesel unless your having rough idle witch I've experienced all to well in this platform.

I think you don't understand. I was referring to the vibrations that the engine is producing regardless of DPs. Even with failing engine mount there won't be vibrations like you would normally feel if engine is diesel or 4 cyl if mounts are failing. Go ahead, loosen up one (left is easier) and report if you feel any difference. You won't because engine runs smoothly. However, if engine mounts had failed there is a big possibility that the power steering pulley hits the subframe, DPs do knock on subframe and CP to break.

[Ur3ss]

Originally Posted by GEOS07335i

Just wanted to close the loop on this thread in case someone is also looking for a budget build. Although I'm a bit short on my original goals of 425whp.

With the following mods I was able to get 377whp / 438rtq I think very respectable numbers considering the $ per horsepower. If I wanted to get to 425whp/500hp I would simply add a L2 LPFP and run an E50 mix. If I wanted to achieve around 400whp I would add a good set of inlets.

Attached is the dyno.
What's not mentioned but absolutly needs to be considered wich add's considerable cost are the maintenance that's required to run properly.

Depending on mileage the following should be done prior to installing your goodie pack
100K. At the very least coils and new plugs will minimize those pesky misfire issues.

* Change plugs run one step colder NGK's gaped at .018 this should help minimize timing corrections if you have some. Or add 1G of E85 to a full tank. (used to help reduce timing corrections)
* Walnut Blasting
* New Coils
* Strongly advised that Injectors are at INDEX 10-12
* VCG / OFHG leaks should be addressed. Can be related to boost leaks.
* VANOS Solenoids are good for 100K I swap them out.
* PCV Valve / Flapper Breather Hose.
* Pre Cat O2 Sensors

GOODIE PACK
*ARM DP's
*ARM DCI
*ARM 7" FMIC
*ARM CP with knock off Tial Q BOV
*MHD Stage 2 or 2+
*ALPINA Auto Flash (Free)

Now capture some datalogs and look for issues related to:
1) look for timing corrections
2) look for Fuel Rail pressure sensor (LPFP) (should be around 72 but will fluctuate)
3) look for fuel rail this is your HPFP under load if it drops below 1400 could be an issue.
4) compare target boost to actual boost. If you have more than 1 -1.5 psi diffrence you might have boost leak issues
5) WGDC check your waste gate duty cycle. I forget the numbers.

NOTE: I not 100% accurate on the Data logging. Recommend you double check but the idea is for you to check these things out when your datalogging.

Super Helpful document to help understand data logging in MHD: https://www.docdroid.net/IyQ24N5/int...d-datalogs.pdf


Once your comfortable that the car is running well then get that bad boy on a dyno.

Thanks for this

[GEOS07335i]

Sure glad someone found the information useful.

[GEOS07335i]

Originally Posted by GEOS07335i

Sure glad someone found the information useful.

Just a quick note. Car is still running strong.

[cn555ic]

Originally Posted by GEOS07335i

Just a quick note. Car is still running strong.

Methanol injection is your next power mod!

[feuer]

Originally Posted by GEOS07335i

Just a quick note. Car is still running strong.

What is the total $ spent on getting it to run Ok ?

[GEOS07335i]

Originally Posted by feuer

What is the total $ spent on getting it to run Ok ?

I'd have to add it all up but the maintenance was easily twice as much as doing the mods alone. My car with 125k needed a lot of love. The goodies I probably have a little over 1000. I think I put close to 2k in maintenace parts part of which were a used set of index 12 injectors for $500. All the work except for the walnut blast and TPM sensor was done in the garage. If I had taken it to an Indy I would suspect we'll over 5k in labor.

[SjR82]

Very thorough and helpful write up GEOS! Thank you for posting your whole experience with the maintenance and upgrade considerations. I'm about where you were in Feb..

I bought a bargain '09 335i sedan 2 months ago for $5k because it had a nearly constant misfire on cyl 3. A $40 used injector from ebay took care of the misfire, and I also replaced the cracked valve cover. She runs wonderfully for now! I've began the maintenance work you went through and getting ready to load MHD this week. Thanks again for all your advice and documenting the process. I'm leaning toward VRSF for most of my FBO items, but glad to know there are other slightly cheaper options that work.

[GEOS07335i]

Originally Posted by SjR82

Very thorough and helpful write up GEOS! Thank you for posting your whole experience with the maintenance and upgrade considerations. I'm about where you were in Feb..

I bought a bargain '09 335i sedan 2 months ago for $5k because it had a nearly constant misfire on cyl 3. A $40 used injector from ebay took care of the misfire, and I also replaced the cracked valve cover. She runs wonderfully for now! I've began the maintenance work you went through and getting ready to load MHD this week. Thanks again for all your advice and documenting the process. I'm leaning toward VRSF for most of my FBO items, but glad to know there are other slightly cheaper options that work.

Thanks for the kind feedback. I try to pay it forward when I can. Good luck with your build and let us know how you like it. I'm really enjoying the new found power. It's a blast to drive.