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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > ConnectedDrive / I-Drive / Navigation Related Discussion > I-Drive Navigation Retrofit!



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      04-10-2008, 02:39 AM   #23
Rev2Liv
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Being cheap, and w/o an e90, i'm unwilling to put out cash for any tech literature, but consider acquiring this circuit diagram schematic
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...62&hg=01&fg=30

Also, have you seen this buyer's guide?
http://www.bimmerboard.com/members/j...er%20Guide.pdf


Also, the evolution of iDrive by BMWCCA.
http://old.bmwcca.org/node/9282

If you dare, ask the dealer for a iDrive based 3 series as a loaner indicating that you want to "evaluate" the iDrive system for more than just a test drive and that a positive outcome could be mutually beneficial for both you and the sales guy.

Last edited by Rev2Liv; 04-10-2008 at 02:53 AM.. Reason: add
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      04-10-2008, 11:59 AM   #24
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That .pdf of the Navigation evolution for BMW is excellent, but this is unchartered territory as far as I know, and that .pdf doesn't discuss details about it. I guess we need to write the next chapter!

I think getting a "loaner" car with i-drive from the dealer is a SUPERB idea. Hmm...I think my car does need its oil changed soon.. The things I could learn in 24-hours of disassembly, uh, I mean, borrowing the car.

I did learn from the WDS that the "HIP module" (whatever that is) as well as the "rotation rate sensor" (gyro?) is built-in to the CCC. No external parts.



These are the two cables found secured to the bottom of the center console. One is a large connector with only four male pins protruding. Wires going into the connector are blue, green, brown, and red/green. The other wire is a purple antenna/ariel lead going to an unknown location.



This is the picture of the underside of the i-drive controller. You can see the four pin connector that is supposed to plug into it. (the bottom connector with red wires is for the "menu" button/lighting)

I think I will invest in a full vehicle wiring schematic. But first, the "LOANER CAR!" Hahahaha...
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      04-10-2008, 02:26 PM   #25
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The I-drive connector, with id X10387, should have following pin-out:

up to 2007-03 Pin 1: RT/WS 2: BR 3: OR/GN 4: GN

2007- 03 to 07 Pin 1: RT/GN 2: BR 3: OR/GN 4: GN

2007- 09 and on Pin 1: RT/VI 2: BR 3: OR/GN 4: GN
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      04-11-2008, 01:05 PM   #26
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Damn - figured out that the two connectors under the center console (X4545 & X13322) are for the Universal Charger/Hands-free kit upgrade (bluetooth retrofit upgrade) - this is the pre-wiring in the car. Bummer.
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      04-11-2008, 01:52 PM   #27
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X4545 and X13322 connects to "Ejectbox", part belonging to the Phone installation
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      04-11-2008, 02:01 PM   #28
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This is the connectors that you find in the center console storing partition
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      04-11-2008, 02:39 PM   #29
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...problem is that I cannot find x10387 under the console, and I have no idea which harness it belongs to. The audio harness and dash harness should be the same for i-drive/non-i-drive cars. It's easy enough to make I suppose...the four pins go to:
a) ground
b) K-can bus high
c) K-can bus low
d) lighting circuit (I'm pretty sure)

That connector is just not there. Also, I have yet to find (haven't looked that hard yet tho) the second connector for the display (X13823.) If we get those two located, I can hook this baby up and see what happens. The third is the antenna connection which is simple enough with the right lead.
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      04-11-2008, 03:14 PM   #30
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Let´s start with the antenna wiring, see the attachement.
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File Type: pdf Navi antenna.pdf (39.0 KB, 2086 views)
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      04-11-2008, 03:48 PM   #31
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x10387:

1: +12v from light module pin 7
2: Ground
3: Can high, same as Radio connector, pin 11
4: Can low, same as Radio connector, pin 9
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      04-14-2008, 01:48 AM   #32
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Steaman - you are a big help in this. Where are you getting your electrical info? I really need an entire schematic of the i-drive audio system and a non-idrive system to compare.

This link you sent me broke my heart:
http://bmwfans.info/original/E90/Lim...5/ill-65_1778/

It shows several audio harnesses for the car (damn!) However, that diagram is for a Euro spec car (possibly right hand drive), not U.S. I can't even find prices on any of those (5) part numbers displayed. When I look up a U.S. spec car for the audio harnesses, only three are displayed... different part numbers also, seem to be in the $1100 region. I'm thinking the correct one is 6119163394. Yikes.


Funny, cause on realoem.com, only one audio harness is displayed; p/n: 61110395429..... ($691 - big difference!) But it makes complete sense that there is another complete audio harness for a i-drive/SatNav car....additional antenna lead, satnav display wiring, as well as i-drive controller wiring (which I pretty much have confirmed is NOT present on my car), and who knows what else I haven't even run across yet...
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...=65&fg=22&hl=3

The question remains whether or not to build the pieces I need (from schematic comparison) or to order a $600+ harness and spend a day tearing apart the car for a couple of wires. I would like to KNOW that the audio harness is perfect and free of flaws and will likely be good for the life of the car - that piece of mind might be worth the money and time spent. I still need more information...

Yet another question that is raised is that if a newer harness is acquired, will it come set up for the 6FL option (minus the USB/audio jack)...then is it just a software thing, or is there a separate module that handles the USB interface. I've seen that somewhere on these forums.
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      04-14-2008, 03:35 AM   #33
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This link has a broad overview of the entire system (no schematics though.) Interestingly enough, it verifies that the shark-fin antenna contains the correct guts when the BMW assist (SOS) option is installed. I was also pleased to supposedly see that the left 12-pin port (of two) on the back of the CCC (not the 16-pin) is not used for anything other than aux input and the fan lead. The right port is not used on U.S. models.

Also interesting is that (based on the super-simple diagram, again, not a schematic), it looks like the display (CID) only gets a signal from the K-CAN bus other than the dedicated LVDS cable. Maybe the 12-pin connector on the back of the display only uses two of its pins to hook to the bus, nothing else(?!?)

If all of this is true, a harness change would not be necessary! (I need a schematic!) These simple diagrams would indicate two pins to the bus for the CID, four pins for the i-drive controller (2 to the bus, one ground, and one for instrument lighting), and the antenna lead. Oh yea, gotta hook up the fan also. Doesn't look impossible. The audio systems (professional / navigation professional) seem to be described as virtually identical in design.

check this interesting PDF:
http://www.socale90.com/forums/attac...5&d=1173916232
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      04-14-2008, 11:57 AM   #34
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There is one harness, with 9 wires, between the CID (display) and CCC.

from WDS:

CID power supply lines:
The Central Information Display (CID) is the indicating instrument of the head unit; it does not generate its own screen contents. The CID is switched on and off using the head unit and is supplied via the following connections:
  • Ground connection
  • Terminal 30g
  • K-CAN connection (logical control)
  • LVDS data line (picture signals from the head unit)
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      04-14-2008, 09:18 PM   #35
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OMG if you do this, it will be epic!
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      04-14-2008, 10:51 PM   #36
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T-MC-G ...we're trying!



Okay, thanks to Steaman for some inspiration on this one! However, I have to disagree with some of the info on the CID - there are two ports on the back...one for the dedicated LVDS cable (which DOES go directly to the CCC and CID), the other port likely gives the CID power, ground and bus connection as you say. I did some studying with the WDS and came up with this (I think I have this figured out "on paper"....)

Display (CID):
-is hooked up by dedicated LVDS cable directly to CCC (12 pins each side, looks like a shielded cable)
-is hooked up by another 12-pin connector (although only four pins are used according to WDS) I figure if you tap into the 16-pin connector (x13812) on the back of the CCC, you can get all the signals we need:
Pin 1 of the CID: 30G (power) ----> hook to pin 15 on back off CCC(x13812)
Pin 3 of the CID: 31L (ground)----> hook to pin 12 on back of CCC(x13812)
Pin 5 of the CID: K-Can High -----> hook to pin 11 on back of CCC(x13812)
Pin 6 of the CID: K-Can low ------> hook to pin 9 on back of CCC(x13812)

I-drive controller:
-Is hooked up via 4-pin cable which is non-existent on non-idrive cars - if we tap into the same pins (as above) for the CID, I think we can get it working also:
Pin 1 of the controller: 30G(power) ----> hook to pin 15 on back off CCC(x13812)
Pin 2 of the controller: 31E(ground) ---> hook to pin 12 on back of CCC(x13812)
Pin 3 of the controller: K-Can high -----> hook to pin 11 on back off CCC(x13812)
Pin 4 of the controller: K-Can low ------> hook to pin 9 on back off CCC(x13812)

CCC Fan:
The three pin fan on the back of the CCC needs to be hooked up to the CCC (x13813 - 12-pin connector, left port on back of CCC, only used for AUX on the normal professional radio I think...) - this is how I think it should be:
Pin 1 of fan: Volts(+) ----> hook to pin 1 on back of CCC(x13813)
Pin 2 of fan: diag ------> hook to pin 11 on back of CCC(x13813)
Pin 3 of fan: Volts(-) -----> hook to pin 5 on back of CCC (x13813)

Antenna lead - well, hmmm....we'll have to tear the headliner down and look at what's up there now...but very simple unless we use a hidden antenna under the dash. Personally, I would like to hook it up like it was designed! We'll figure it out with all the resourceful people on here...

Will someone please check my pin-outs vs. the WDS and see if it all seems right? If so, I'll attempt to hack up my spare harness and test it on the "the bench" before ordering a new dashboard up.
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      04-14-2008, 11:10 PM   #37
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As much as I am confident in that last post, the more I study it, I feel something is still not quite right -

* Why is the 30G wire at the i-drive controller pin #1 supposed to be a RT/WS wire when the 30G wire at the CID pin #1 a RT/GE wire? In addition, the 30G wire at pin #15 of the CCC is a RT/GN wire. Shouldn't this be a standard wiring color for the 30G connection? (or are they different colors among the same circuit to ease the tracing???
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      04-15-2008, 09:18 PM   #38
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* Another thing I have run across during my research is that it looks as if the CCC and i-drive controller use the exact same wires on the K-Can bus to hook to each other, so in a sense, they are physically linked to same same wires on the same line of the bus.

* This concerns me a bit, as the CID display hooks to a different physical line of the K-Can bus. Maybe this isn't an issue, but it's not like all the modules in the car share the same two bus wires - there are many different lines of the bus (thus possibly different speeds/protocols/etc...) I've located where the CID goes into the 54-pin connector (x14272), but am not sure of anything else plugged into that line. (ie. I may have to run separate K-bus wires from the CID to the bus module (not sure what its called, but its under the glove box.)

More research to follow...
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      04-16-2008, 01:53 AM   #39
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I've been looking to do something similar to this for awhile now. I've wanted to install a carputer for a very long time in my e92. Call me crazy, but the regular Logic 7 radio is just not techie enough for me. All the options I've seen are either not very clean or require totally hacking up the stock head unit, and once you do that you might as well buy a new car because you lose all functionality.

I've been looking for a complete idrive dash kit so I can throw a 7 or 8 inch touch LCD behind it to control the carputer (which will be located in the boot) I'm going to integrate dvd, mp3, nav, internet, etc and then just splice into the aux input for audio. I haven't been able to get a hold of a dash yet though , but once that is ironed out the rest should go fairly quickly (the computer stuff will be easy for me). If you do a DYI on this, could you include steps for the dash removal, procurement, etc?
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      04-16-2008, 02:48 AM   #40
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I feel like I'm kinda posting to myself on this, but its more of a log of progress. Anyway, I spent some more time looking at the WDS figuring out the best wiring plan (sans replacing the entire harness.) I've modified the above wiring routing, as I would like to retain as much "stockness" as possible during the retrofit. Some of my concern was due to running the controller and CID from the CCC power source. I'm sure this is too much draw (as a OEM I-drive car has a fuse for the controller, another for the CID, and yet another for the CCC.) I wanted to retain that separation and keep the K-Can bus and JBE sources the same as stock for potential diagnostic capabilities, especially if something goes haywire down the road...it'd be great if it could be diagnosed like any other (stock I-drive) car. This is the modified wiring plan:

Central Information Display (CID) --- Utilizes Fuse F61(10A)

** LVDS Cable (x13823 – 10-pin) – run directly from CID to CCC
** Connector x13822 (said to be 6-pin, but on my CID, its 12-pins): <------ Can anyone help on this issue?!?!
Connect Pin #1 (RT/GE - Power) from CID to Pin 37 of connector x14272 of A4010 (JBE)
Connect Pin #3 (BR – Ground) from CID to Pin 27 of connector x14272 of A4010 (JBE)
Connect Pin #5 (OR/GR – K-Can H) from CID to Pin 11 of connector x14272 of A4010 (JBE)
Connect Pin #6 (GN – K-Can L) from CID to Pin 30 of connector x14272 of A4010 (JBE)



I-Drive Controller --- Utilizes Fuse F13(5A)

** Connector x10387 (4-pins):
Connect Pin #1 (RT/WS – Power) from controller to Pin #3 of connector x11003 of fuse box
Connect Pin #2 (BR – Ground) from controller to Pin #12 of connector x13812 at CCC
Connect Pin #3 (OR/GN) from controller to Pin #11 of connector x13812 at CCC
Connect Pin #4 (GN) from controller to Pin #9 of connector x13812 at CCC



CCC Fan --- Utilizes power from connector x13813 (12-pin connector, left port on back of CCC)

** Connector x14055 (3-pins):
Connect Pin #1 (RT/SW – Volts(+)) from fan to Pin #1 of connector x13813 at CCC
Connect Pin #2 (WS – Diag) from fan to Pin #11 of connector x13813 at CCC
Connect Pin #3 (BR/SW – Volts(-)) from fan to Pin #5 of connector x13813 at CCC

I'm not asking anyone to try this wiring setup just yet (I will soon), but if someone's bored and wants to go over the schematics with a fine-tooth comb to see if I'm missing something major, that'd be good. Another set of eyes wouldn't hurt. It'd be nice to hook this up and "appear" to work, even if the car needs complete re-programming. Its going to be discouraging if nothing works due to a programming change (it will be misleading as if its not wired correctly.)

Any further input (from someone who really knows - a BMW Level 1 tech perhaps?!?) regarding the different legs of the K-Can bus would be enlightening!

...and to GUM5H03, if I get this up and running, I will be making a big DIY with the dash swap instructions. Fun! (hahahahahaha )
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      04-16-2008, 03:35 AM   #41
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      04-16-2008, 12:03 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 335iheLLraiseR View Post
Awesome! How far did u get with the removal/retrofit of the dash?
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      04-16-2008, 04:21 PM   #43
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You guys are nuts. Complete nuts. But I love it and I admire your courage to
do such a mod

No you are not posting to yourself. I am following this up very closely. I have
a friend somewhere who depending on his free time, can get you some info
for things you need. Shoot me specific answers though to ask him and we'll
see if he can oblige.
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      04-17-2008, 07:03 PM   #44
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I'm just a few days away (free time allowing - phooey on work!) from hacking up a spare harness (so I have OEM connectors) and making the necessary connections to "see what happens."

I'm really very interested in knowing more technical details about the K-Can bus and different segments of its network. Connections would be much easier if the CID wiring could be "tapped" off the bus connections for the radio as opposed to going where they are "supposed" to go in the JBE - I'm assuming this is for diagnostic purposes. I'm also very curious how this whole system is going to behave prior to the progman update once its connected....a BMW tech or other person in the know should have an answer for that. I'm hoping I'll have some functionality to know that its working!

I have not yet pulled my dash, but have come close as much stuff as I have torn out/put back to get to some of this wiring. I don't think its nearly as bad as some cars....I think the steering wheel/airbag as well as the A-pillar airbag side curtains will be the scariest...the dash doesn't seem that bad and isn't held on with hundreds of fasteners either. It should be noted that the center-dash speaker grille is different between the standard dash and double-scoop i-drive dash (trying to eliminate surprises as I walk my way thru this.) I have yet to actually pull out the dash until I get my double-scooped one. You might ask 335iheLLraiseR how bad it looks, as he already has a double-scoop dash on the bench, ready to go.

For those who are equally nuts and having an e90 as ill-equipped as me -- I will be following this mod with the OEM seat heater retrofit. I'm doing that research now as a side project.
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