[Jakejacobsonn]

Just got inlets/outlets FBO custom tune running e40. Car hit target boost on first revision with inlets then hasn't since no WG Rattle no smoke no signs they are dying besides this log. All new vacuum lines new solenoids. No idea if turbos ever were replaced car has 150k miles. Car has been leaks tested/smoked tested 4 times has zero leaks could it simply just be dead turbos..? At this point I figure I would have some type of rattle smoke something to say they are on there way out. They do make 20 psi up top then taper very hard.

Current logs

https://datazap.me/u/jakejacobsonn/l...og=0&data=3-21


https://datazap.me/u/jakejacobsonn/l...og=0&data=3-21

[bimmerguy1210]

If it’s original turbos then safe to say they are toast. If you’ve done a leak test and theres no leaks from the I/C piping or connections then they’re likely gone

[Dave92N54]

Well, the logs would be your indication. You're at just about max WGDC at the end of the pull. This would likely mean either dead wastegates, you'd hear tons of rattle if this were the case, or a boost leak.

My first question is, how old are your boost solenoids?
Second, are you on stock diverter valves?
Third, what outlets?

Also, with a target of 21psi like that, you're going to need an N20 MAP. If you solve this issue, you could overboost past 21psi and never know. This would not be good lol.

[TunafishE93]

Your logs are fine. You are tapering down due to WGDC being limited since it only the first revision of the tune. Tuner will run close to max and you should pick up a few more psi up top. Your turbos are on the weak side but by no means are shot. Let the turner do there job and report back. 21psi you don't need n20 sensor, stock is just fine.

[Dave92N54]

Originally Posted by TunafishE93

Your logs are fine. You are tapering down due to WGDC being limited since it only the first revision of the tune. Tuner will run close to max and you should pick up a few more psi up top. Your turbos are on the weak side but by no means are shot. Let the turner do there job and report back. 21psi you don't need n20 sensor, stock is just fine.

I can certainly agree with your first statement but seriously, I would not recommend stock TMAP at 21psi. You want to be able to read at least 2-3psi over target so PID can work properly in the event of overboost. A stock TMAP will not do that in this scenario.

[Jakejacobsonn]

Originally Posted by bimmerguy1210

If it’s original turbos then safe to say they are toast. If you’ve done a leak test and theres no leaks from the I/C piping or connections then they’re likely gone

That’s what I’m feeling like it is at this point

[Jakejacobsonn]

Originally Posted by Dave92N54

Well, the logs would be your indication. You're at just about max WGDC at the end of the pull. This would likely mean either dead wastegates, you'd hear tons of rattle if this were the case, or a boost leak.

My first question is, how old are your boost solenoids?
Second, are you on stock diverter valves?
Third, what outlets?

Also, with a target of 21psi like that, you're going to need an N20 MAP. If you solve this issue, you could overboost past 21psi and never know. This would not be good lol.

It is a 3.5 bar t-map from my old 328i it’s the second revision. Ken the tuner said the car is definitely under boost and its on the mechanical side of things

[Jakejacobsonn]

Originally Posted by TunafishE93

Your logs are fine. You are tapering down due to WGDC being limited since it only the first revision of the tune. Tuner will run close to max and you should pick up a few more psi up top. Your turbos are on the weak side but by no means are shot. Let the turner do there job and report back. 21psi you don't need n20 sensor, stock is just fine.

Appreciate it, using ken wedge he said it’s on the mechanical side of things says it’s way under target for what the WGDC is targeting.

[Jakejacobsonn]

Originally Posted by Dave92N54

Well, the logs would be your indication. You're at just about max WGDC at the end of the pull. This would likely mean either dead wastegates, you'd hear tons of rattle if this were the case, or a boost leak.

My first question is, how old are your boost solenoids?
Second, are you on stock diverter valves?
Third, what outlets?

Also, with a target of 21psi like that, you're going to need an N20 MAP. If you solve this issue, you could overboost past 21psi and never know. This would not be good lol.

The solenoids have maybe 2-3k miles on them boost tested about 4 times no leaks from what I was told.

Also on BMS Charge pipe Tial BOV

AND VRSF outlets with relocated Arm Inlets

Appreciate you taking the time to answer!!

[Dave92N54]

Originally Posted by Jakejacobsonn

The solenoids have maybe 2-3k miles on them boost tested about 4 times no leaks from what I was told.

Also on BMS Charge pipe Tial BOV

AND VRSF outlets with relocated Arm Inlets

Appreciate you taking the time to answer!!

Gotcha, so new solenoids and a BOV rules out the first two. Check your outlets, I believe the VRSF use a silicone coupler, correct? I've heard of and seen it split, or pop off. Turbos are certainly a possibility but I feel like you'd have to hear them rattling. Hell, mine still make boost fine and even after adjustment and ensuring no vacuum leaks, they rattle like a mf on startup.

Also just now remembering you saying it's been smoke tested, if done properly a split coupler would definitely show up. Still worth a look I guess but yeah, i'd definitely consider wastegates at this point. Still weird that they make 20psi though... I feel if WG were shot, you wouldn't even make close to that. You're positive there is no leak in the vacuum system? I.e. have you hooked a vacuum gauge up to the vacuum canisters? Should be around 20-25 in/hg.

[Jakejacobsonn]

Originally Posted by Dave92N54

Gotcha, so new solenoids and a BOV rules out the first two. Check your outlets, I believe the VRSF use a silicone coupler, correct? I've heard of and seen it split, or pop off. Turbos are certainly a possibility but I feel like you'd have to hear them rattling. Hell, mine still make boost fine and even after adjustment and ensuring no vacuum leaks, they rattle like a mf on startup.

Also just now remembering you saying it's been smoke tested, if done properly a split coupler would definitely show up. Still worth a look I guess but yeah, i'd definitely consider wastegates at this point. Still weird that they make 20psi though... I feel if WG were shot, you wouldn't even make close to that. You're positive there is no leak in the vacuum system? I.e. have you hooked a vacuum gauge up to the vacuum canisters? Should be around 20-25 in/hg.

So I myself didn’t smoke/boost leak test them. I had the shop do it I went back to them after the rear inlet slid off. He went over and swore up and down no leaks they even tested it drove it around then did the test once again. But yes they do use those couplers I’m gonna take a look in the morning. See if they ripped or slid off. But that’s why I’m also convinced the turbos can’t be bad it’s still hitting 20psi I wanna try and get to the wastegate arm but no room with these relocated inlets. Gonna see if maybe that may help

[Dave92N54]

Originally Posted by Jakejacobsonn

So I myself didn’t smoke/boost leak test them. I had the shop do it I went back to them after the rear inlet slid off. He went over and swore up and down no leaks they even tested it drove it around then did the test once again. But yes they do use those couplers I’m gonna take a look in the morning. See if they ripped or slid off. But that’s why I’m also convinced the turbos can’t be bad it’s still hitting 20psi I wanna try and get to the wastegate arm but no room with these relocated inlets. Gonna see if maybe that may help

Sounds like a good approach, I hope you figure it out. If not, well, time for some twins of your choice I guess

I will likely be going RB OEM Billets when mine go (not really power hungry) so RB is my recommendation, which also seems to be the popular choice on this forum, but i'm sure other options are great too.

[Jakejacobsonn]

Originally Posted by Dave92N54

Sounds like a good approach, I hope you figure it out. If not, well, time for some twins of your choice I guess

I will likely be going RB OEM Billets when mine go (not really power hungry) so RB is my recommendation, which also seems to be the popular choice on this forum, but i'm sure other options are great too.

I was under there today and the rear inlet is hanging on by a thread and I think maybe under boost it crympts down