[Yozh]

Just doing this so people can search before attempting or not. I have searched and have not found much on this issue.

Short story: did a 600mi/900km and next day had a turbo oil supply line break. It is #1 in this diagram. BMW part number 11427795970.



Dealer said they will take 3 days to fix and as I was spewing oil under pressure all over the place, I have decided to take a short drive home instead and attempt the repair myself. Still wondering if I should have.

Even if you have all the tools and are comfortable doing work yourself I do not know if I would suggest attempting this. It is a real pain. Here is what is involved.

Remove all the easy stuff like the engine cover, airbox, MAF, all the plastic piping before the turbo inlet. Disconnect the intercooler and the red charge pipe to make some space. Remove turbo heat shield.

Then the fun begins. This pipe is a feed from the block to the little distribution box where it then feeds small and large turbos by their own lines. Those are easy. This one is easy to disconnect at the top. The bottom connection to the block is hidden. Without removing large turbo and AC compressor it is impossible to get to the lower pipe connection.

From underneath the car with under tray removed, AC compressor has to be removed (3 long bolts). Still do not see the oil line. Remove the AC compressor bracket (7 bolts - no, I am not kidding) move both away as best as possible, then you see the connection. Try removing the hollow bolt that connects the pipe to the block. Nope, it hits the turbo housing.



Have to remove the seven bolts that hold both turbos to the exhaust manifold. Disconnect turbo outlet from the DPF, some brackets, loosen the turbo oil drain pipe. Then you can move the turbo a bit to remove the bolt holding this oil line to the block.

So, why German engineers are on drugs. That is because they have not designed this pipe to be fail safe and have made it so difficult to replace. I could not imagine what dealer would have to charge for this seemingly simple job.

I guess the lesson is, if you have any oil seepage from any of the three oil feed lines to the turbos, get them replaced before they fail at an inopportune moment. And if you are under warranty, do it before it expires.

[Vreimann]

Originally Posted by Yozh

Just doing this so people can search before attempting or not. I have searched and have not found much on this issue.

Short story: did a 600mi/900km and next day had a turbo oil supply line break. It is #1 in this diagram. BMW part number 11427795970.

Attachment 1031872

Dealer said they will take 3 days to fix and as I was spewing oil under pressure all over the place, I have decided to take a short drive home instead and attempt the repair myself. Still wondering if I should have.

Even if you have all the tools and are comfortable doing work yourself I do not know if I would suggest attempting this. It is a real pain. Here is what is involved.

Remove all the easy stuff like the engine cover, airbox, MAF, all the plastic piping before the turbo inlet. Disconnect the intercooler and the red charge pipe to make some space. Remove turbo heat shield.

Then the fun begins. This pipe is a feed from the block to the little distribution box where it then feeds small and large turbos by their own lines. Those are easy. This one is easy to disconnect at the top. The bottom connection to the block is hidden. Without removing large turbo and AC compressor it is impossible to get to the lower pipe connection.

From underneath the car with under tray removed, AC compressor has to be removed (3 long bolts). Still do not see the oil line. Remove the AC compressor bracket (7 bolts - no, I am not kidding) move both away as best as possible, then you see the connection. Try removing the hollow bolt that connects the pipe to the block. Nope, it hits the turbo housing.

Attachment 1031873

Have to remove the seven bolts that hold both turbos to the exhaust manifold. Disconnect turbo outlet from the DPF, some brackets, loosen the turbo oil drain pipe. Then you can move the turbo a bit to remove the bolt holding this oil line to the block.

So, why German engineers are on drugs. That is because they have not designed this pipe to be fail safe and have made it so difficult to replace. I could not imagine what dealer would have to charge for this seemingly simple job.

I guess the lesson is, if you have any oil seepage from any of the three oil feed lines to the turbos, get them replaced before they fail at an inopportune moment. And if you are under warranty, do it before it expires.

Truth is that all engineers that design stuff should be forced to repair the items they design. Then at least there would be thought into how something simple like that would be repaired. Some engineers that design car components never see the inside of an engine bay.

[Mark M]

Yozh,

Thanks for the detailed write up, these are the types of contributions to this board that really add value for all of us and give us resources to lean on when / if it happens to us.

Question, on that diagram, can you denote where the hose failed so that we have an idea where to look before it completely fails on ours? Thanks!

[Puerto Rican 335d]

Holy Crap Im going for a brake change and upgrade I will notify my mechanic to look out for this gracias Yozh

[BB_cuda]

This engineer was a wrench turner since 16 yrs old. I have always designed with manufacturability and repair kept in mind. I've never done anything automotive though in terms of design. Thanks yohz. It's sounds like you should wait for pipe unless you have already reassembled

[TDIwyse]

Originally Posted by Mark M

Yozh,

Thanks for the detailed write up, these are the types of contributions to this board that really add value for all of us and give us resources to lean on when / if it happens to us.

Ditto

Were you able to determine what went wrong and why?

[joe_planet]

That bimmer is a real bummer...

[Yozh]

Originally Posted by TDIwyse

Ditto

Were you able to determine what went wrong and why?

I do not have the old pipe anymore. After being under the car until 5am I was not thinking clearly and have thrown it out without taking a pic.

But, yes, the old pipe had failed on the rubber upper part right where the connection is. I shall take a picture on my car and describe better in detail of what and why.

[Vreimann]

Originally Posted by BB_cuda

This engineer was a wrench turner since 16 yrs old. I have always designed with manufacturability and repair kept in mind. I've never done anything automotive though in terms of design. Thanks yohz. It's sounds like you should wait for pipe unless you have already reassembled

BB_Cuda, I am sure you have had the opportunity to work with those that don't turn wrenches. I am an Engineer, and these folks do exist.

Yohz has done a tremendous job in showing a time efficient how to. I just can't get over how many pieces need to be removed to get at this hose.

[Yozh]

Originally Posted by TDIwyse

Ditto

Were you able to determine what went wrong and why?

Use the same numbering as in the RealOem diagram posted in the original post. #1 feeds from the block to the distribution block. #2 is a 180 degree curved one that feeds small turbo on top and #3 goes to the large turbo on the bottom. As I have mentioned #2 and #3 are easy to replace. #1 is a pita and that is the one I had to deal with and the one failed.

Here is a pic of turbo oil supply lines #1 and #2. You can see #1 is new and is clean and dry. #2 I am yet to replace, just did not want to buy from the dealer at triple the price. It is still oily and was like that before #1 failure. I am not sure it is leaking but will replace anyway. Interestingly, when #2 was disconnected at the turbo side, I could turn the pipe axially against the metal flange. It basically rotates. #1 failed right at the metal flange. Rubber hose has what seems like a seam and that is where it came apart. You can see it in this picture and in the next.



In this picture you can better see a seam on the rubber hose of #2. Failure was right there by the metal flange, but on #1. The reason if failed I think because it was overtightened but if you imagine the metal connection on #1 moving clockwise a few degrees and thereby forcing some stress on the rubber hose, stretching it. When attaching a new one, I held the metal connection in place and tightened the bolt such that it would not move out of its natural position and no stress on the rubber hose. Hope it helps, sorry the best I could explain.

[Yozh]

Originally Posted by BB_cuda

This engineer was a wrench turner since 16 yrs old. I have always designed with manufacturability and repair kept in mind. I've never done anything automotive though in terms of design. Thanks yohz. It's sounds like you should wait for pipe unless you have already reassembled

Thanks BB_cuda. Yeah it all assembled back and I have done over 1000mi now and no issues. DPF removal will be a separate time spent under the car

[Timujin]

Not FN cool at all. Those hoses should be overbuilt to avoid this sheet. I will check my hoes.

[TDIwyse]

Ugh.

Thanks for the info Yozh.

[Jffeijao]

Originally Posted by TDIwyse

Ugh.

Thanks for the info Yozh.

How can you get 27 germans inside a VW beetle?
A: tell them it is impossible.

[TDIwyse]

Originally Posted by Jffeijao

How can you get 27 germans inside a VW beetle?
A: tell them it is impossible.

:-)

http://www.pakwheels.com/forums/atta...heels-com-.jpg

[BB_cuda]

Originally Posted by Vreimann

BB_Cuda, I am sure you have had the opportunity to work with those that don't turn wrenches. I am an Engineer, and these folks do exist.

Yohz has done a tremendous job in showing a time efficient how to. I just can't get over how many pieces need to be removed to get at this hose.

Vreimann, agreed many engineers I know will shy away from an oil change never mind the most simple brake job. There are a few of us at work that are gear heads.

Yohz, great job showing us about this if/when our turn comes up. To moderator, this one deserves a sticky if you don't mind please.

[mainiac]

Yozh, Thanks for the write-up as I'm about to embark on this same adventure.

Did you replace all of the turbo gaskets where they connect to the DPF and manifold? If not, have you had any problems with leakage?

[Yozh]

Did not touch the gaskets as I did not actually remove the turbos fully, just unbolted them to shift a bit to get space between the banjo bolt and LP turbo. Make sure they align after though. Also, get the belt stretch tool to get the AC belt off/on. I did not have it and it was hard to get it back on. As you will be removing the whole vacuum control system from above the turbos, you may wish to consider refreshing your vacuum lines and may be some other things like pressure converters. Be careful removing old vacuum lines off the plastic nipples, I usually cut them carefully then replace the lines. Plastic vacuum accumulator box is the most susceptible to breakage. Also, get all new oil feed line copper washers. Good luck, and please come back to this thread and post your experiences and pictures.

PS: you have an E70, some things may be different. I would examine carefully before removal. May be it will be easier as you have more space.

[ChiDiddy]

Thanks for this post. I am currently dealing with this problem. I may pay an Indy shop to do it tho. Just do not have the time to do it....

[lnxguy]

I would have gotten a shop to braise up both ends to a steel braided line. I hate hard lines, such a pain in the ass. It looks like BMW did a great job at burying them.

[mainiac]

Originally Posted by lnxguy

I would have gotten a shop to braise up both ends to a steel braided line. I hate hard lines, such a pain in the ass. It looks like BMW did a great job at burying them.

I considered that path, here's an email from one shop, I couldn't measure the required length and didn't know of any way to secure the flexible hose so I just ordered a BMW replacement. It's 16" long btw. I'm searching McMaster-Carr now and might put this (https://www.mcmaster.com/#7293k1/=16fski1) on the rubber portions to protect against heat.

"The replacement we can make, would be with teflon hose. For high heat we can put a aluminized heat sleeve on it.
We would need overall lengths and banjo sizes on the ends. Just a note teflon hose will not route like hard line. So you will need to fasten it somehow.

thanks.

Chris
Director of Operations

Techna-fit
493-B Southpoint Circle
Brownsburg, IN 46112
P:317-350-2153
F:317-350-2164

[mainiac]

Originally Posted by Yozh

Did not touch the gaskets as I did not actually remove the turbos fully, just unbolted them to shift a bit to get space between the banjo bolt and LP turbo. Make sure they align after though. Also, get the belt stretch tool to get the AC belt off/on. I did not have it and it was hard to get it back on. As you will be removing the whole vacuum control system from above the turbos, you may wish to consider refreshing your vacuum lines and may be some other things like pressure converters. Be careful removing old vacuum lines off the plastic nipples, I usually cut them carefully then replace the lines. Plastic vacuum accumulator box is the most susceptible to breakage. Also, get all new oil feed line copper washers. Good luck, and please come back to this thread and post your experiences and pictures.

PS: you have an E70, some things may be different. I would examine carefully before removal. May be it will be easier as you have more space.

Great advice, I am replacing all vacuum lines while I'm at it. Since I won't be replacing one at a time, I'm inserting numbered plastic bag ties numbered into the vacuum hoses and ports so I can remember for assembly. Last time I was at the dealer (and will be the last since I'm discovering so many missing nuts and sloppy work) they replaced my accumulator since they snapped off a connector doing warranty work.

Hopefully I won't have to remove the passenger engine mount like ISTA+ shows. Did you just have to loosen the lower turbo or also the upper?