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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > N54 Turbo Engine / Drivetrain / Exhaust Modifications - 335i > Adjusting Actuator arms - Ok if i do one at a time?



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      11-07-2018, 03:46 PM   #1
pjr710
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Adjusting Actuator arms - Ok if i do one at a time?

Ok so I believe i have widdled down my 30FF to my actuator arms.

I know there's a front and rear.

I was thinking of adjusting rear, and seeing if it's fixed. Then if needed - adjust the front.

Anything wrong with doing it this way? Or should I be adjusting both at the same time?
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      11-07-2018, 04:11 PM   #2
snedanator
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Yes u can do the rear to see if it fixes the problem.
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      11-07-2018, 04:27 PM   #3
FCobra94
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Do the rear, but plan on doing the front as well (adding washers, etc.) when you can make time to do so.
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      11-07-2018, 05:21 PM   #4
pjr710
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Originally Posted by FCobra94 View Post
Do the rear, but plan on doing the front as well (adding washers, etc.) when you can make time to do so.
Yea i certainly do want to do that too. How will i know when to? When i get another leak?

You can just pop the radiator fan out and do it right? I’d have to figure out washer size and how many.
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      11-07-2018, 06:42 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by pjr710 View Post
Yea i certainly do want to do that too. How will i know when to? When i get another leak?

You can just pop the radiator fan out and do it right? I’d have to figure out washer size and how many.
If you adjust the rear one and still get codes or rattle then you'll know to do the front as well. At least on my car both front and rear have worn similar amounts so I would guess if one needs it both probably do.

Yeah, the front can be done by removing fan and then working by braille with 1/4" drive tools and some slotted washers to slide over the bolts using a magnet. Mine only took about 45min. It seemed hard at first but isn't bad when you get a "feel" for it, haha.
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      11-07-2018, 06:56 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by philtr View Post
If you adjust the rear one and still get codes or rattle then you'll know to do the front as well. At least on my car both front and rear have worn similar amounts so I would guess if one needs it both probably do.

Yeah, the front can be done by removing fan and then working by braille with 1/4" drive tools and some slotted washers to slide over the bolts using a magnet. Mine only took about 45min. It seemed hard at first but isn't bad when you get a "feel" for it, haha.
Working by Braille! First time i heard that but so true!!

Lol yea i hear you l, once u get the feel for it it’s like u can see lol.

You take the bolts out right? One at a time and put the washers between?

How many did you use? Do u remember the size?
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      11-07-2018, 07:13 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pjr710 View Post
Ok so I believe i have widdled down my 30FF to my actuator arms.

I know there's a front and rear.

I was thinking of adjusting rear, and seeing if it's fixed. Then if needed - adjust the front.

Anything wrong with doing it this way? Or should I be adjusting both at the same time?
Put some white out on the actuator arm & then turn it 2.5x on the rear. You won't be able to turn the actuator arm on the front turbo, unless you took off the water pump & thermostat. That's not really a good idea. You'll lose a lot of radiator fluid & the three bolts you take out to remove the water pump are one time use bolts.

So, you'll have to use the horse shoe shaped no 8 SS washers trick. You take two, no. 8 SS washers. Grind out a section to make a horse shoe. Super glue two of them together. Do this twice. You'll need to take out the two vacuum canisters & the valve cover plastic cover. You need to loosen up the actuator bolt on the top of the turbo about a 1/2" in order to slide the washers between the actuator & the turbo housing. The harder part is the bottom bolt. You'll need to take the fan out and the FMIC. You'll need a 6" extension & 3/8th ratchet to loosen up the turbo actuator bolt, sliding the extension & socket in-between all the various radiator hoses working from the bottom of the engine. You'll need to position the washers on a telescopic part picker upper and finesse them in between the actuator & the turbo housing working from the bottom of the engine.
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      11-08-2018, 06:20 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pjr710 View Post
Working by Braille! First time i heard that but so true!!

Lol yea i hear you l, once u get the feel for it it’s like u can see lol.

You take the bolts out right? One at a time and put the washers between?

How many did you use? Do u remember the size?
Haha, Braille was the most accurate description I could think of. I didn't remove the bolts, just loosened enough to slide the "U" washers over. I remember using 2 washers per bolt which, one didn't seem like quite enough to take up the slop. Sorry don't remember exact size as I had them laying around the garage.

For my 335xi with 6mt I did not remove the intercooler and performed all work from the top once the fan was out.
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      11-08-2018, 06:30 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by philtr View Post
Haha, Braille was the most accurate description I could think of. I didn't remove the bolts, just loosened enough to slide the "U" washers over. I remember using 2 washers per bolt which, one didn't seem like quite enough to take up the slop. Sorry don't remember exact size as I had them laying around the garage.

For my 335xi with 6mt I did not remove the intercooler and performed all work from the top once the fan was out.
Awesome thanks!
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      11-10-2018, 02:42 PM   #10
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i just adjusted my rear .. i had to turn it like 4-5 times ... i tried getting it to shut at 5.9 HG.

Here are my logs

Car runs a lot better .. gotta tackle the front next. https://datazap.me/u/pjr710/3rd-gear...5-6-9-15-23-24
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