[Sco Cuddie]

Originally Posted by mashimarho

Hey guys,

Any idea why my rears don't tuck or go past the tire at least? 19x11 +25 with 265/30. It seems other people with similar specs can tuck. My camber isn't as crazy as others when I air out. It's a bit
Not sure what it is. I have asked around and some say alignment, and stuff. I don't have much camber when I air out...

I'm running a higher offset but same tire size and tuck rear.

Could it be the way the shocks were installed? Or the bag not sitting within the spring perch?

[mashimarho]

Originally Posted by Sco Cuddie

I'm running a higher offset but same tire size and tuck rear.

Could it be the way the shocks were installed? Or the bag not sitting within the spring perch?

Can you elaborate what you mean by that? I contacted bag riders they said,
"For example, If you have 3 inches of travel from your aligned height, you'll see more camber fluctuation than if you have only 1 inch of travel. As the car moves more, it will adjust itself accordingly so long as it has room to. If you hit your tires when you're airing out, you aren't maximizing your travel, so you should thread those lower mounts up a bit."

[Projekt_BooGie]

what shocks are you running in the rear?

[Sco Cuddie]

Originally Posted by mashimarho

Can you elaborate what you mean by that? I contacted bag riders they said,
"For example, If you have 3 inches of travel from your aligned height, you'll see more camber fluctuation than if you have only 1 inch of travel. As the car moves more, it will adjust itself accordingly so long as it has room to. If you hit your tires when you're airing out, you aren't maximizing your travel, so you should thread those lower mounts up a bit."

If I remember correctly, the rear shocks are adjustable. Have these been adjusted to provide more extended height? This can potentially lead to not being able to drop as low as possible. From the manual:

"Your dampers have been pre-set at the factory to provide maximum drop height while
maintaining adequate tire clearance to the air spring. If you wish to gain more extended
height (lift), which is the same as reducing drop height, or want to lower the chassis further
and there is still adjustment available at the lower mount, please use the following procedure:
1. Support the vehicle with jack stands or a hoist at approved lifting points.
2. Remove the wheel.
3. Using the supplied spanner wrench, loosen the lower locking collar (fg. 33)."

[kcway]

Is there a diy on here? I am having a hell of a time figuring out how to run my lines. Help?

[Sco Cuddie]

Originally Posted by kcway

Is there a diy on here? I am having a hell of a time figuring out how to run my lines. Help?

You can either run them inside the cabin, or run them parallel to the break lines

[ayyy]

Hey everyone, I just got an airlift performance kit with 3P management for my 2008 E92 335xi. Planning on buying airlift performance rear shocks for more control on the damping as well.

A friend and I (who has installed air ride on his own vehicles and others) were looking at installing the management and kinda hit a wall. We realized that plastic trunk underbelly/lining is all that there is between the actual trunk and underneath the car, whereas I thought it was just a lining that would reveal a larger metal area when removed. Basically, I thought I would be able to stuff the compressor and the manifold under there, but realized that probably neither will fit.

So, I'm wondering, how do you guys have your trunks set up? I'm thinking now that the only option is for my air tank to be mounted upside down on the trunk "ceiling" beneath the hat shelf, the manifold hung by a couple c-brackets from the same area, and the compressor mounted on top of the plastic cover above my logic digital amp on the drivers side. But from there, how do you guys run your lines to each suspension component? I saw a vent on the passenger side with my battery cover removed that perhaps line can be ran through, but is there one on the drivers side behind the trunk lining as well? I feel drilling through that plastic underbelly of the trunk is dangerous as it passes near the very hot exhaust.

Thanks guys and let me know how you have your trunk set up!

[igzekyativ]

Originally Posted by ayyy

Hey everyone, I just got an airlift performance kit with 3P management for my 2008 E92 335xi. Planning on buying airlift performance rear shocks for more control on the damping as well.

A friend and I (who has installed air ride on his own vehicles and others) were looking at installing the management and kinda hit a wall. We realized that plastic trunk underbelly/lining is all that there is between the actual trunk and underneath the car, whereas I thought it was just a lining that would reveal a larger metal area when removed. Basically, I thought I would be able to stuff the compressor and the manifold under there, but realized that probably neither will fit.

So, I'm wondering, how do you guys have your trunks set up? I'm thinking now that the only option is for my air tank to be mounted upside down on the trunk "ceiling" beneath the hat shelf, the manifold hung by a couple c-brackets from the same area, and the compressor mounted on top of the plastic cover above my logic digital amp on the drivers side. But from there, how do you guys run your lines to each suspension component? I saw a vent on the passenger side with my battery cover removed that perhaps line can be ran through, but is there one on the drivers side behind the trunk lining as well? I feel drilling through that plastic underbelly of the trunk is dangerous as it passes near the very hot exhaust.

Thanks guys and let me know how you have your trunk set up!

I got it all under the floor, here is my post http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1356967

[ayyy]

Originally Posted by igzekyativ

I got it all under the floor, here is my post http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1356967

thanks for linking that, but your trunk is very different from my e92. The well underneath my upholstered hatch is wayyyy shallower than yours. I have only a 8 inch x 4 inch trapezoidal shaped deep well (5+ inches deep) and the rest of that plastic piece is maybe 2 inches deep. And that plastic piece is all there is between the trunk lining and the outside of the car. So I feel I can't modify it at all without running into my mufflers/heat shield. This is what it looks like in my trunk (pic stolen from online):



Thanks again in advance!

[igzekyativ]

Originally Posted by ayyy

thanks for linking that, but your trunk is very different from my e92. The well underneath my upholstered hatch is wayyyy shallower than yours. I have only a 8 inch x 4 inch trapezoidal shaped deep well (5+ inches deep) and the rest of that plastic piece is maybe 2 inches deep. And that plastic piece is all there is between the trunk lining and the outside of the car. So I feel I can't modify it at all without running into my mufflers/heat shield. This is what it looks like in my trunk (pic stolen from online):



Thanks again in advance!

oh wow, that is a lot smaller!

[Digitalize]

Originally Posted by ayyy

thanks for linking that, but your trunk is very different from my e92. The well underneath my upholstered hatch is wayyyy shallower than yours. I have only a 8 inch x 4 inch trapezoidal shaped deep well (5+ inches deep) and the rest of that plastic piece is maybe 2 inches deep. And that plastic piece is all there is between the trunk lining and the outside of the car. So I feel I can't modify it at all without running into my mufflers/heat shield. This is what it looks like in my trunk (pic stolen from online):



Thanks again in advance!

I might be wrong but if you got smaller/no rear mufflers you could retrofit the Saloon/Touring underboot floor, or make your own box.

[mashimarho]

Originally Posted by Sco Cuddie

If I remember correctly, the rear shocks are adjustable. Have these been adjusted to provide more extended height? This can potentially lead to not being able to drop as low as possible. From the manual:

"Your dampers have been pre-set at the factory to provide maximum drop height while
maintaining adequate tire clearance to the air spring. If you wish to gain more extended
height (lift), which is the same as reducing drop height, or want to lower the chassis further
and there is still adjustment available at the lower mount, please use the following procedure:
1. Support the vehicle with jack stands or a hoist at approved lifting points.
2. Remove the wheel.
3. Using the supplied spanner wrench, loosen the lower locking collar (fg. 33)."

Thanks!!!!!

[mashimarho]

Originally Posted by Projekt_BooGie

what shocks are you running in the rear?

fortune auto

[ayyy]

Originally Posted by Digitalize

I might be wrong but if you got smaller/no rear mufflers you could retrofit the Saloon/Touring underboot floor, or make your own box.

Thanks for the suggestion. However I have OEM mufflers (but have done the PE mod myself) so unfortunately I don't have any extra space down there to work with

[ayyy]

bumping my original question, but also have another. My full airlift performance kit didn't include rear shocks, so I was wondering what you guys prefer for rear shocks with air ride FOR A 335xi (not RWD). I've searched on the forum and found that people like Koni (yellows, HD, FSD,), Billstein, and the Airlift Performance adjustable rear shocks. I am not totally dead set on adjustable, but would like that freedom. I'm also confused as to what Koni products are offered for xDrive models, as I can't find anything on their website made specifically for xDrive (I only find "excluding xDrive" listed on their products). Thanks in advance!

[Digitalize]

If you've got Airlift fronts I'd just get the airlift rears to match.

[ayyy]

Originally Posted by Digitalize

If you've got Airlift fronts I'd just get the airlift rears to match.

Thanks for the suggestion, actually got below wholesale value for a pair from an airlift rep so that's what I'm runnin!

[ayyy]

Hey everyone,

I installed my bags over the last couple days and everything seems to work fine (minus a cracked bag in the pass rear that results in a 1 PSI per second leak), but my front end is sitting WAY too high. Like the fender to tire gap is literally equal to stock XI ride height when aired all the way out. I would assume this is because the front struts are not seated properly in the knuckle, as I spent forever trying to figure out how they're supposed to be oriented. The install manual literally provided no direction on this, and their ONE picture of the front strut installed in the knuckle is so small and dark that I seriously couldn't tell. So, check out these pictures and please let me know if this is seated properly:




You can see here that I oriented the strut so that the tab that the sway bar endlink connects to is facing inwards, perpendicular to the hub. This is to match how the OEM one was oriented. This results in the little tiny hook/tab on the bottom of the shock resting on top of the knuckle tube. Is this totally wrong or the right way? I thought that maybe that little tab is supposed to slide INTO the gap of the knuckle tube, but that would result in the large tab that the sway bar endlink connects to facing rearward at a 45º angle, making the endlink have to span a greater distance at a very awkward angle to reach it.

I also had to jack up the sway bar in order for these short endlinks to even reach. Is there a reason these are shorter? The OEM one fit perfectly before I tried jacking up the sway bar, and I had set the length of the short end links exactly to that the install manual said to.

So, even if the strut was rotated to allow that little tab to slip into the knuckle tube, that would only gain me like 1.5 inches of drop. This still would seem like the front would be way too high, whereas the rear tucks the hell out of the tires/wheels. Is it maybe then just a matter of my shock not adjusted for maximum drop?

Thanks in advance for your help!

[igzekyativ]

Originally Posted by ayyy

Hey everyone,

I installed my bags over the last couple days and everything seems to work fine (minus a cracked bag in the pass rear that results in a 1 PSI per second leak), but my front end is sitting WAY too high. Like the fender to tire gap is literally equal to stock XI ride height when aired all the way out. I would assume this is because the front struts are not seated properly in the knuckle, as I spent forever trying to figure out how they're supposed to be oriented. The install manual literally provided no direction on this, and their ONE picture of the front strut installed in the knuckle is so small and dark that I seriously couldn't tell. So, check out these pictures and please let me know if this is seated properly:




You can see here that I oriented the strut so that the tab that the sway bar endlink connects to is facing inwards, perpendicular to the hub. This is to match how the OEM one was oriented. This results in the little tiny hook/tab on the bottom of the shock resting on top of the knuckle tube. Is this totally wrong or the right way? I thought that maybe that little tab is supposed to slide INTO the gap of the knuckle tube, but that would result in the large tab that the sway bar endlink connects to facing rearward at a 45º angle, making the endlink have to span a greater distance at a very awkward angle to reach it.

I also had to jack up the sway bar in order for these short endlinks to even reach. Is there a reason these are shorter? The OEM one fit perfectly before I tried jacking up the sway bar, and I had set the length of the short end links exactly to that the install manual said to.

So, even if the strut was rotated to allow that little tab to slip into the knuckle tube, that would only gain me like 1.5 inches of drop. This still would seem like the front would be way too high, whereas the rear tucks the hell out of the tires/wheels. Is it maybe then just a matter of my shock not adjusted for maximum drop?

Thanks in advance for your help!

So I did the same thing when I installed mine. I installed it just like you with the tab on top of the knuckle and the end link connection point in the same orientation as OEM. This is WRONG. The tab is supposed to fit into the slit in the knuckle, and the end link connection point is farther towards the rear of the car (don't know why).

Now as far as how low it goes, I can confirm that even with this correct orientation, and the strut adjusted so that there are no threads left, it does not go as low as I thought it would. Somehow the end link/sway bar is holding the car up.

Here is a picture of my car aired out with the end links set to the 4.53" length as stated in the instructions with the correct installation (tab into the knuckle) and the front struts adjusted all the way to their lowest setting


Here is an image without the end links, it gets a lot lower.


I don't understand why the end link/sway bar would hold the car up, but it is. I plan to keep the end links off the car until I can get my car into a shop and have them look at it. I hope they can adjust the end link (shorter or longer) so that the car will get low and still have a sway bar. The car is pretty sloppy without the end links.

You will diffinately want to adjust the front struts so there are no threads left if you want it to be low when aired out. I even had to raise (not lower) the rear about 2" from the "factory" settings.

[Digitalize]

Must be something to do with how they've moved the mounting point because my car is about that high at the front static and it still has further to move as I still have suspension travel. I have OEM droplinks too.

It's clearly the issue though as with it disconnected it's where I'd expect it to sit.

[ayyy]

Originally Posted by igzekyativ

So I did the same thing when I installed mine. I installed it just like you with the tab on top of the knuckle and the end link connection point in the same orientation as OEM. This is WRONG. The tab is supposed to fit into the slit in the knuckle, and the end link connection point is farther towards the rear of the car (don't know why).

Now as far as how low it goes, I can confirm that even with this correct orientation, and the strut adjusted so that there are no threads left, it does not go as low as I thought it would. Somehow the end link/sway bar is holding the car up.

Here is a picture of my car aired out with the end links set to the 4.53" length as stated in the instructions with the correct installation (tab into the knuckle) and the front struts adjusted all the way to their lowest setting

I don't understand why the end link/sway bar would hold the car up, but it is. I plan to keep the end links off the car until I can get my car into a shop and have them look at it. I hope they can adjust the end link (shorter or longer) so that the car will get low and still have a sway bar. The car is pretty sloppy without the end links.

You will diffinately want to adjust the front struts so there are no threads left if you want it to be low when aired out. I even had to raise (not lower) the rear about 2" from the "factory" settings.

Thanks so much for the detailed response. How were you informed that the correct orientation of the strut is with the little tab in the slit of the knuckle? Was it straight from airlift or another reputable source? I am not doubting your expertise, but I really don't see how the endlink could possibly reach the mounting tab on the strut with it rotated 90 more degrees. It would have to completely wrap around the strut in a seemingly impossible way.

I did achieve a much lower height after loosening the shock collar and twisting the bottom until there were almost no threads left. I was unable to 100% "slam" it as the fitting into the bag was preventing me from twisting the shock bottom any further. But there are only .5 inches of threads remaining on the top. But I guess if I can figure out a way to seat the shock into the knuckle as you've described, with the swaybar endlink being able to actually reach its mount on the strut, I will be able to get about an inch lower (as the shock sits higher in the knuckle currently with that tab stopping it).

Thanks again for the help!

[ayyy]

Originally Posted by Digitalize

Must be something to do with how they've moved the mounting point because my car is about that high at the front static and it still has further to move as I still have suspension travel. I have OEM droplinks too.

It's clearly the issue though as with it disconnected it's where I'd expect it to sit.

Thanks for the reply. By droplinks, are you referencing the sway bar endlinks? That attach from the sway bar itself to the mounting tab on the airlift strut/shock? I would never want to completely remove them from the suspension for the sole purpose of getting lower, just so the stability of the suspension isn't compromised. I'm happier now with the front drop height but will try to rotate the strut in the knuckle and mess with the endlinks.