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      05-08-2018, 11:43 AM   #133
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But disabling vvt will result in power loss.. why not take the car for a professional for insepcting ? Or talk to bpc about alpha n tune
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      05-08-2018, 11:50 AM   #134
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Or if you can borrow the map sensor from someone nearby and test it on your car (it is an easy job)
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      05-21-2018, 10:35 PM   #135
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Elias_E90 View Post
But disabling vvt will result in power loss.. why not take the car for a professional for insepcting ? Or talk to bpc about alpha n tune
This issue has been bounced by multiple indies (some former dealership master technicians, some reputable on their own). No one wants these weird projects unless you hint at a bottomless wallet... in which case ur not in a 2007 328i w/ 125k+ miles.

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Originally Posted by Elias_E90 View Post
Or if you can borrow the map sensor from someone nearby and test it on your car (it is an easy job)
Sry not aware how this can be accomplished... care to elaborate ?
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      05-22-2018, 01:03 PM   #136
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I'm with you on this one Dean. Apparently lots of people are struggling with this problem both in US and here in Poland including myself (n52b30).

So far I changed all lambda probes, throttle body and spark plugs, to no avail. I am pretty sure it is not the injectors as I have a secondary gas feed instalation and it is the same.

Please report if you make any progress with that. Good luck!
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      05-23-2018, 10:56 PM   #137
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Saico View Post
I'm with you on this one Dean. Apparently lots of people are struggling with this problem both in US and here in Poland including myself (n52b30).

So far I changed all lambda probes, throttle body and spark plugs, to no avail. I am pretty sure it is not the injectors as I have a secondary gas feed instalation and it is the same.

Please report if you make any progress with that. Good luck!
I am so happy to hear I'm not the only one. Which at the same time is not to say I'm happy to hear you have problems too.

I'm right now suspecting quite intently the VVT and thus looking for ways to temporarily disable it: http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1429404

Having said that this earlier post here seems to have similar symptoms on a n53 car - which has EGR instead of VVT, direct injection instead of port, and had all injectors index 11.

mindbogglingly frustrating...
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      05-24-2018, 07:38 AM   #138
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Disconnecting VVT may actually help but I am pretty sure the car will go into reduced power mode and will not enter closed loop mode, meaning it will run on default "emergency" map. If this helps it will still be difficult to isolate the root cause.
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      06-18-2018, 09:00 PM   #139
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Saico View Post
Disconnecting VVT may actually help but I am pretty sure the car will go into reduced power mode and will not enter closed loop mode, meaning it will run on default "emergency" map. If this helps it will still be difficult to isolate the root cause.
which VVT are you referring to, the VVT motor ? I'm trying to figure if disconnection that or the ESS (eccentric shaft sensor) would do the job, while also trying to understand the consequences...
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      06-24-2018, 08:09 AM   #140
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Yes I meant ESS sensor. This disables valvetronic and the engine rpms are then controlled by a standard throttle body. But the engine may also be running in limp mode so that may mean e.g. no closed loop.
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      07-11-2018, 01:09 PM   #141
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Subscribed to hear more, I've got very similar problems in an N51 (2009 California 328i).

Symptoms: About the same as mentioned: under load (like going up a light hill, or accelerating hard but not hard enough to downshift [AT]), as my RPMs move through 1500-2000 or so, there's a hesitation and power loss. Goes away completely above maybe 2500rpm. If I happen to be in just the right spot, like going up a light hill in 4th or 5th, holding the engine at that 1700 sweet spot, there might even be bad shaking, maybe 30% of what you'd get with a dead coil.

History:
109k miles - Leaky valve cover gasket messed up the secondary air system, probably due to O2 sensor fault it caused. Dealership replaced the gasket and sensor under emissions warranty.
113.5K miles - Cyl4 misfire, diagnosed as dead coil, dealership also replaced under emissions warranty.
Perhaps starting right after this, perhaps a little later, this issue above developed and persisted for about 2 months. It might have been like this right after the coil repair, as it would have been tough to notice, not looking for it.
115K miles - after two months or so of no codes but weird hesitation, my engine finally threw a code suggestive of a broken DISA valve, so I pulled that and had a look. Sure enough, it was flapping - the gear had broken as they do. I replaced it at 115,200mi, and there has been a marked improvement, but the hesitation issue is still there.

I think my engine still has an oil leak somewhere, but I'm not yet totally sure where. I'm pretty sure the battery is in poor health (and its original), but I don't think that's likely related - do you? I guess next up I'll try to test and maybe clean the VANOS solenoids.

Next diagnosis steps:
1) replace battery and see (it needs to go anyway, cranking is weak after a weekend of non-use).
2) Test VANOS and maybe proactively replace solenoids
3) Replace spark plugs (don't think this is relevant, because mine are only 32k old and misfires should throw codes anyway).

Any other thoughts?

I just want my damn car back, and to not spend $3000 replacing functional parts just to diagnose it
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      07-27-2018, 03:30 AM   #142
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Hey alexwhitemore.

my n53 has the same problems.

I already replaced:

-all injectors
-Fuel pump in tank
-Fuel pressure regulator in tank with fuel filter
-MAF
-Both vanos solonoids
-fuel low pressure sensor
-high pressure fuel pump
-all spark plugs
-all coils
-both camshaft sensors
-crankshaft sensor
-Valve Cover with new new gasket and new CCVV membran + hose
-All 4 lambda probes
-Both disa Valves
-New agm Battery + coding

At that point i am realy frustrated and don't know what it could be. There are no fault codes stored. Car hesitates under load in low rpm range.
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      07-28-2018, 03:04 PM   #143
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That’s... disheartening.

I think my next steps are
1) pull and clean VANOS valves just to see
2) swap coils and plugs
3) replace battery since it’s not tip top either way

But yeah. Still super worried about doing just what you did and getting nowhere. I just want to eliminate possibilities before an indie charges me $3000 to replace stuff that still works
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      07-31-2018, 05:24 PM   #144
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I just spent some time with ISTA after finally figuring out how to get it to connect. I pulled DISA valve 1 (the one I just replaced) and ran the diagnostic module to hear DISA 2 actuating and SEE DISA 1 actuating - so I definitely replaced a bad DISA valve with a working one. But still have the problem.

I also went into the VANOS diagnostic module and tested those - both valves seem to be hitting the set angle without any problem, to within like half a degree (10x better than the allowable +/-5*).

I did notice some info in the VANOS diagnostic checklist - if you're following it to a T, you're supposed to go into the engine and have a look at where the camshaft rides - it can score a rut into the block where it rides. I didn't look too closely since there's no way I'm tearing the engine apart to that degree just for diagnosis - way above my pay grade. But in any event, it seems like there's a lot to go wrong besides simply the actuators themselves

Next step, I guess, is to replace the plugs and coils, but mostly probably make an indie appointment.
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      07-31-2018, 06:26 PM   #145
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sorry i dont have any answer to this as im struggling with the same issue. my car also hesitates at low rpm under 1500 rpm. It doesnt hesitate at light throttle but if im in 6th gear and want to pass somebody and my rpm is below that, it will hesitate, surge but as soon as its past 1500 rpm its a strong pull.

could it be possible that it is a design flaw like that?
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      07-31-2018, 06:49 PM   #146
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gT-BMW View Post
could it be possible that it is a design flaw like that?
You mean could it be that it's caused by mechanical wear like the scoring I described above? For sure, certainly.

What bothers me about that isn't that it's a design flaw - all mechanical parts wear, and the part I mention specifically is replaceable. I don't even think it's likely to be the root cause. I'm sure it's a red herring - keep in mind, I'm reading from a source that tries to consider every possible cause of failure and provide a diagnostic path to determine if that's the issue.

What worries me about it is that if the diagnostic process gets to that point, it's going to be hellishly expensive
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      08-01-2018, 01:58 AM   #147
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You can check in INPA/ISTA how fast the camshafts actuate to the desired angle to know if there is a problem with vanos solenoids or camshaft wedges. There should be almost no dicrepancy nor visible delay.

Here is a sample screen from INPA:
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      08-01-2018, 11:49 AM   #148
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Quote:
Originally Posted by major330i View Post
Hey alexwhitemore.

my n53 has the same problems.

I already replaced:

-all injectors
-Fuel pump in tank
-Fuel pressure regulator in tank with fuel filter
-MAF
-Both vanos solonoids
-fuel low pressure sensor
-high pressure fuel pump
-all spark plugs
-all coils
-both camshaft sensors
-crankshaft sensor
-Valve Cover with new new gasket and new CCVV membran + hose
-All 4 lambda probes
-Both disa Valves
-New agm Battery + coding

At that point i am realy frustrated and don't know what it could be. There are no fault codes stored. Car hesitates under load in low rpm range.
Wow! You've tried everything (almost). The one thing I see missing from your list and which cured an identical issue for me is the low pressure fuel pump control unit. As you're clutching at straws it might be worth a look...
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      08-01-2018, 03:41 PM   #149
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phil325i View Post
Wow! You've tried everything (almost). The one thing I see missing from your list and which cured an identical issue for me is the low pressure fuel pump control unit. As you're clutching at straws it might be worth a look...
Goddamnit, I'm going to end up replacing $1000 worth of crap before finally sorting this out aren't i

Is there a diagnostic to verify that prior to actually buying and installing the part? Like a fuel pressure test? Even better, one that can be done with just onboard diagnostics and INPA/ISTA?
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      08-01-2018, 05:17 PM   #150
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2011 328i Stalling Out

Hello: my 2011 328i stalls out intermittently but usually after driving for about 30 to 45 minutes. when it stalls, the display shows a car up on the racks. If I wait 10 minutes, the car will start back up and drive again. This is the only symptom other than this symptom, the car drives and sounds great - no noises and very smooth driving.

The dealer says it's the DISA valve and computer and wants $3800. An independent BMW mechanic said he can't get it to duplicate and when he hooks it up to his computer there are no codes. He says it might be the fuel pump about to go out but he is not sure.

Any suggestions? $3800 sounds like a lot of money. The car has 191,000 miles on it and i am the original owner.

Thanks!
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      08-01-2018, 05:43 PM   #151
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DeeDee2011 View Post
$3800 sounds like a lot of money.
Yes, it certainly is.

Quote:
The dealer says it's the DISA valve and computer
I question this. If, indeed, there is a broken control module, that could well be quite expensive. But it seems super unlikely that this would be the case. I'm not sure which module directly controls the DISA valves, but I'm guessing it's the DME. The cases where both the DISA valves and DME would fail, and without taking anything else down too, seem VERY unlikely to me.

What's totally plausible is that one or both DISA valves themselves are dead. The gearing is super weak and tends to just break - then your valves sort of just flap uselessly. You can determine if one is broken by pulling it and poking the valve - if it flaps, the drive components are broken. If it's stiff, the valve is probably still good (there's a diagnostic in ISTA to make them flap, which shows you conclusively whether they work or not, but I won't cover that). You also need to be sure the seal is still good where it pokes into the intake - if that o-ring or seal is bad, you have a vacuum leak.

One DISA valve (the "left", or "1" valve) is on the outside of the intake and is pretty easy to get to. The other one is buried under the 6 intake ports, and requires pulling the whole intake (definitely still a driveway job, but more involved). To check the outer valve, you just pull out the air box, dismount the power steering pump and tuck it out of the way, and remove the airbox to throttle body hose. All 4 screws, and two on an obstructing cable loom bracket, will be right there for you to undo with a T-25 hex driver.

Anyway, the valves themselves aren't awfully expensive - about $200 each online, and some local shops told me $400 to get that day. Replacing number 1 I did myself, my second time getting in there, in 40m (timed myself). Replacing 2 would be a fair bit more complicated, but I can't imagine it being more than 1.5H for someone who knows what they're doing. So the whole job, replacing both, should be no more than $980 at an indie and that's if they charge a high hourly and make bank on the parts. If you are mechanically inclined, I suggest you dedicate 2h to checking whether they're both bad, then buy them online to replace yourself (it'll go way faster the second time in there).


But I also sort of question whether this is your problem. My valve 1 was DEFINITELY bad, and my car runs badly between 1.5-3k but has never stalled. And thats with some other as-yet-undiagnosed problem going at the same time.

EDIT: also it surprises me that the car shows the "up on a lift" icon but the indie can't find any codes. It's possible that the dealer cleared them. I'd try to reproduce the problem, then get the car back to the indie to read codes again.

Or, better yet, read them yourself. Looks like you're in LA - anywhere near the south bay? PM me - maybe we can meet up and compare notes. If you can reproduce the problem, it'll only take about 5m to read the codes. We could also run the DISA diagnostic without pulling the valves and see if yours sound different than mine, which would be a good indication that they're dead. That also wouldn't take much effort.
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      08-02-2018, 03:39 AM   #152
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alexwhittemore View Post
Goddamnit, I'm going to end up replacing $1000 worth of crap before finally sorting this out aren't i

Is there a diagnostic to verify that prior to actually buying and installing the part? Like a fuel pressure test? Even better, one that can be done with just onboard diagnostics and INPA/ISTA?
My indy ran a full engine-on diagnostic check using BMW test software. It was this that revealed the faulty control unit.
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      08-02-2018, 09:09 AM   #153
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phil325i View Post
My indy ran a full engine-on diagnostic check using BMW test software. It was this that revealed the faulty control unit.
Oh, your pump CONTROL unit was dead? Not the pump itself? Sounds like I should look around for that diagnostic in ISTA.
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      08-02-2018, 09:19 AM   #154
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alexwhittemore View Post
Oh, your pump CONTROL unit was dead? Not the pump itself? Sounds like I should look around for that diagnostic in ISTA.
Yes it was the control unit that was at fault. Wouldn't say it was dead, but malfunctioning...
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