[Eddienoriega]

Hey!

I am new to the forum, and I have a question, I have an automatic 2006 325i and it is a bit jerky going from first to second and every time I am coming to a complete stop it jerks from 2nd to 1st, I went to a mechanic to see if any codes came up and nothing, thought it was solenoid issue but he said it was not that. He said it may just need new transmission fluid and after a little research that seemed to have solved that issue for some people.

My questions rises from the fact that i called a bmw dealership and the service guy told me that because i have not serviced the transmission and the car has 152,000 miles that if i put new transmission oil that i would be stranded on the side of the road because it would ruin my "old" car. Can someone explain why that is or if he is full of crap?

not to mention they said they would do that for me for $800

[gamesfrager]

Try resetting adaptation. I read that some people do that after winter driving.

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1536089

Though not sure about the procedure following the software reset. I hope someone can shine a light on that.

[Pladi]

The only time a transmission is jerky because of fluid is when there is not enough fluid..

I would change the fluid now regardless of what that guy told you because thats a myth. New fluid does not "damage" the transmission it might remove too much friction material and cause more issues that way when you drain the old oil. That is always possible but you have nothing to lose now. Worst thing that can happen is issue is still there or more jerking. In which case you need to then replace the solenoids. At that point you might decide to get a used transmission.

[lowrydr310]

I have similar behavior in my 2006 325i. If I'm accelerating very lightly or very aggressively, there's absolutely no jerkiness whatsoever. But if I'm driving moderately, my 1-2 shift is sometimes rough. I have gotten the harsh 2-1 downshift only once however. I have new fluid ready to be changed, and went to an independent BMW mechanic who told me don't bother changing the fluid if there aren't any major problems.

Then I read about how a fluid change will likely fix a screeching sound heard during downshifts on these ZF transmissions which I'm also experiencing. So it looks like I'll be ignoring the recommendation from the independent mechanic and changing the fluid after all.

So unless someone else chimes in here and has a specific reason or example of failure after a fluid change, I'd say go for it. That's what I'm doing. However just do a simple drain and fill and avoid any special flush, and make sure you use the correct fluid. Personally I am going with Mercon SP since that's what Ford uses in their ZF 6HP equipped cars (cousin is a Ford mechanic).

[tlow98]

Drain and refill the trans fluid. Do not flush it. Reset adaptions.

If this does not work then the solenoids will likely fix your issue since you have a ZF transmission.

Get this work done at a reputable independent service provider, not at the dealership.

[smass]

I fixed my 06 with $300 in new solenoids. It is good as new now. Does it bump when shifting manually between 1-2 and 2-1 while stopped?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/ZF-6HP19-6H...ftTE:rk:6:pf:0

[TeeCrouch]

Having this same issue, I hadn't changed or top off fluids also due to "myth" I've been looking at replacing the entire transmission. God I hope it's a slight fix, but I'm completely lost on this.

[lowrydr310]

Originally Posted by TeeCrouch

Having this same issue, I hadn't changed or top off fluids also due to "myth" I've been looking at replacing the entire transmission. God I hope it's a slight fix, but I'm completely lost on this.

This is far too common with these transmissions, but fortunately the solenoids are relatively cheap (cheaper than a new transmission) and easy to access.

I have this jolt too on my '06 325 but it's fairly mild. I did a fluid drain and fill last weekend which significantly improved my shifting, however this slight jolt on the 2-1 shift when stopping is still present. I plan to drive as-is for now then in 10K miles replace the transmission pan/gasket, mechatronic sleeve/gasket, and solenoids.

If you're doing the drain and fill yourself, just make sure you know the correct fill procedure. You need to add more fluid while the engine is running.

[MBTransmissions]

Hello all.
We are just back on the forum, and awaiting procedure to be 'sponsors', so I want to be up front and let you know that we are a business (and apologies to webmaster, please contact us so we can sign up)
We specialize in ZF valve bodies (and also their American clone, the GM6L45/50/80/90)
I assume I can't contact you directly yet until we are official sponsors, but I'll try to help as much as possible via this thread.
What you are describing is (unfortunately) an extremely common, and by far one of the most common symptoms on these units over 100k miles, known as the 'Stop Sign Bump', because it feels like someone bumped your car from behind when you stop at a stop sign. It is an abrupt 2-1 downshift that causes this.
As far as changing the fluid, if it has never been changed *and* your clutches are so worn that the only thing keeping them from slipping is the clutch material 'in suspension' in your fluid, then yes, there is a risk that fresh fluid will cause flares (slight slip) or full slips resulting in the vehicle only being able to accelerate slowly or not at all. However, if you are not slipping at all now, and your fluid is in reasonably good condition, it is unlikely that an approximate 50% change of fluid (ie, drain and fill, not a full flush) will cause slipping. It is *possible*, but unlikely. However, even so, it is very likely *not* the cause of your problems. These units are mechanically very strong. It is rare to have mechanical problems in the gearset, bearing or clutches unless the vehicle has been abused. The problems with these is most often in the valve body, so the average transmission repair shop rebuild won't fix it unless they rebuild the valve body. Some will, most don't, and about 80% of our customers are transmission shops.
The average transmission shop 'rebuild' involves dissembling, inspecting, and replacing all the wear parts in the gearbox section of the unit and the valvebody itself is removed and put back in without opening, or they send it out to a specialty place like us while they do the gearbox rebuild.
I hope this helps a bit, and I hope you understand that I'm being a bit reserved so as to not inadvertently break any rules until we are official sponsors this week.
If you have any questions, please post here and I will respond via thread.
-T