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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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100,000 mile Elite Club
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11-12-2018, 04:18 PM | #1 |
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This is a little bit of a delayed write up, but I thought I share my 100,000 milestone. Apologizes in advance for the lengthy post.
So back in June (2018), my ride officially hit 100K half way into my hour drive home after spending the weekend with family so I stopped on the side of the road and took a quick pic of that mile mark. It was 8+ years ago (December 30, 2009) when I drove home my first ever BMW. A brand new Monaco blue 2010 E92 335i Auto-Steptronic with 7 miles on the odo I purchased off the lot at my local BMW dealer. As of now (November 2018), my 335 has 105,500+ miles and still running just fine. Since I was a teen growing up in the 1980’s, I was always a fan of BMWs and now that I own a 335, I have been very happy with it. My ride has nearly all the all the options (i.e. moon roof, blue tooth, comfort access, satellite radio, CD/DVD, iDrive, Nav, PDC, active cruise, Logic 7, etc., etc., etc.) and the Premium/Sport package option upgrade (i.e. shadow line window trip, fine-wood trim, black leather interior, paddle shift controls, sport seats) with the exception of the car alarm and M-Sport package. Now there was another E92 335 on the lot that had all options including the car alarm and the M-Sport package upgrades, but it was just out of my price range. The car alarm and M-Sport package were just nice to haves, but I could live without them so I got pretty much what I wanted and happy with that. Ride pics on delivery day (December 30, 2009). My ride as of today. All clean after a good bucket/hand wash Since the first day I drove it home, my 335 has been a great car and I have enjoyed driving every mile whether it’s a long road trip, commuting to and from work, or just running around town. I do my best to take good care of it, inside and out, and so far it has held up very well. It is not a DD and nor is it a once in a blue mooner so the frequency of driving varies week to week since I have 3 other cars that I rotate (see sig). When I’m behind the wheel, I don’t beat on it, abuse it, or drive aggressively it as if I’m at a ¼ track flooring it after every stop. I can be a little aggressive at times, but I keep myself in check to make sure to avoid crossing paths with the law. I’m not into giving it a name or calling it ‘she’ or ‘her’, but that’s just me. Each is to their own. Don’t have time to do my own DIY maintenance so whenever I need to have work done or have something checked, I go to my trusted Indy BMW mechanic. My trusted mechanic does a great job at keeping my ride in good mechanical shape like a well-oiled machine. Whenever I need to have something checked or serviced, and does what I ask and doesn’t BS or make any unnecessary repairs just to charge me extra. He goes above and beyond and does other checks to make sure all is A-Ok and lets me know what I should expect to address in the future. Compared to other 335s has had to fix and repair, he said my 335 has been the least problem plagued. That’s mainly because those other 335 owners brought their rides to non-BMW auto service centers with service techs who really don’t know how properly service a 335. I know there are those who will argue the pros and cons of going to an Indy mechanic, as opposed to going to the dealer, but I guess it just goes with the territory and who you know. Fortunately, for me I found my trusted mechanic through a work friend because I needed a good mechanic to do work on my old classic 1983 SL Benz. It just so happened that he used to work at the local BMW dealer for more than 10 years which is the same place I bought my 335. Now that he operates his own shop, it worked out for me so I know my ride is in good hands. Maintenance services done throughout the years: Year 1 (2010) – Factory free maintenance schedule (Dealer). Low mileage oil change. 1st oil change after break-in period (Indy mechanic) Year 2 (2011) – Factory free maintenance schedule (Dealer). Low mileage oil change. Brake flush Year 3 (2012) – Factory free maintenance schedule (Dealer). Low mileage oil change. Brake flush. OEM RFT replacement: Michelin PSS (May 2015) Year 4 (2013) – Regular scheduled maintenance (Indy mechanic). Oil change. Brake flush Year 5 (2014) – Regular scheduled maintenance (Indy mechanic). Oil change. Year 6 (2015) – Regular scheduled maintenance (Indy mechanic). Oil change. Brakes / Brake flush. Replaced 5 ½ year old OEM battery, Year 7 (2016) – Regular scheduled maintenance (Indy mechanic). Oil change. Spark plugs replaced, replace cabin micro filter, coolant flush. Tire replacement: Michelin PSS (May 2016) Year 8 (2017) – Regular scheduled maintenance (Indy mechanic). Oil change. Rear brakes/ Brake flush, coolant flush. Year 9 (2018) – Regular scheduled maintenance (Indy mechanic). Tire replacement: Michelin Pilot Sport 4S (April 2018). Upcoming services and checks/inspections: Oil change, cooling system check, oil pan check, front brakes (squeaking), fuel filter, serpentine belt Other minor things fixed or replaced due to normal wear and tear: 2013: Replaced right brake light bulb (Dealer) 2015: Replaced right fog lamp July 2015 (Indy mechanic), replaced left DRL and broken brake sensor Nov 2015 (Indy mechanic) 2016: Replaced rotted front windshield molding and left rear brake light June 2016 (Indy mechanic) 2017: Replaced OFHG & VCG February 2017 (Indy mechanic), LPFP and Charge Air duct replaced July 2017 (Indy mechanic) 2018: Replaced leaking OFH oil cooler inlet hose and inlet gasket Feb 2018 (Indy mechanic) Have not done the walnut blasting which I have read about and that others have done. Never had any of the typical symptoms (i.e. hesitation, power loss, misfire, etc.) that made it necessary to do so and when I talked to my trusted mechanic about it, he said there are other ways of cleaning the intake besides the walnut procedure. If there is a need to do it, my trusted mechanic said he’s got specialized chemicals that he uses for the purpose of doing that particular type of cleaning job. Recalls: HPFP – Replaced 2011 (No issues with the original) Battery cable – Replaced 2013 Driver side airbag- Replaced November 2017 (About F@#%ing time!) Blower motor – Hopefully before the world ends Mods: September 2016 (Indy mechanic): BMW PE, K&N filter swap, Cobb tune stage 2 I know others will say JB4/MHD flash or other tunes are better, as well as, adding other additional mods (FMIC, down pipes, etc.), but I am not into pushing the HP limits of my ride or doing frequent street/road racing or trips to the track/autocross. This setup fits my need and gives me that extra boost when I’m fighting through those morning and afternoon work commutes, but every now and then I’ll release the beast when I know I can get a good road kill on some POS ricer, domestic, or euro who thinks they’re king of the road. Other than that, I am happy with what I’ve got and don’t plan doing anything else. Regarding the BMW PE, I love it. The louder more aggressive rumble makes my ride sound much more meaner when I give it the gas. Inside, it’s a tiny bit louder than stock, but not unbearably loud like other exhausts I’ve hear and there’s absolutely no drone. I got it for a pretty good deal at the time and I couldn’t be happier. BMW PE pre-install BMW PE after install with new exhaust tips Now of the issues or problem topics most frequently posted on this site and other similar sites, I have had to deal with only a few as noted. 335i N54 specific issues: Wastegate rattle - None Turbo lag issues – None Engine Cylinder misfirings – None Fuel injector problems – None Cooling system hoses/expansion tank issues or leaks – None. To be checked at next service Water pump failure – None. To be checked at next service Strange engine noises (i.e. squeaks, hisses, grinding, ticking, whining) – None Strange engine behavior (i.e. fluctuating RPMs, vibrations, rough idling, high rev idling, etc.) – None Repeating trouble/CEL codes – None Engine power loss/hesitation/stalling - None Auto transmission issues (strange shifts, hard shifts, slippage, Auto to DS mode malfunction) – None Differential issues – None Drive train issues - None A/C cooling or heating problems – None Power steering issues – None Serpentine belt squeal – None. To be checked at next service Battery/alternator charging/excessive drain issues (Besides battery replacement due to age) – None Starter/starting problems – None Oil pan gasket leak – None. To be checked at next service OFHG leak – Replaced VCG leak - Replaced General 3-series related issues: Unexplained shakes or vibrations (unrelated to simple wheel balancing and/or replacing worn tires) - None Wheel/rim TPMS issues – Replaced 2 OEM sensors (8+ years old) due to dead battery. Strange or unknown interior or exterior noises (beeping, whining, humming, clicking, etc.) – None Oil level sensor reading issues - None Suspension issues – None Shocks/struts issues - None Airbag warning light issues - None Active Cruise Control issues - None Climate control issues - None Dash gauge electrical related issues – None Dash read out issues (Fuel level, oil temp, RPM, etc.) – None Voice control issues - None Electrical/interior lighting issues – None iDrive screen/functionality issues – None Navigation issues – None CD/DVD player issues - None Bluetooth connectivity issues – None Radio/Satellite radio problems – None Audio/amp issues – None USB/AUX problems – None Power accessory issues - None Windshield wiper function/rain sensor issues – None Windshield washer pump and tank leak issues - None Window (driver or passenger side) problems – None Sunroof function issues – None Rear view mirror issues – None Driver/Passenger side mirror issues - None Cup holder function problems – None Comfort Access issues – None Key FOB issues (besides battery replacement) - None Door/trunk lock and unlocking issues – None Adaptive Head light issues (besides bulb replacement) - None Taillight/fog light function issues (besides bulb replacement) – None Daytime Running light function issues (besides bulb replacement) - None Seat belt butlers – No longer catching as it extends, of course, but it doesn’t bother me. I am used to grabbing it myself. As an original owner, I don’t know if I am one of the few, or majority, who have had little or no issues, but I know that not every single owner of a E9X 335, or any other 3-series (330, 328, 325, etc.), is a member of this site so there is no true accurate representation of those with problems and those without problems. However, it’s a good thing to know about these things in case it happens so a proper fix or repair can be done or so that preventive measures can be taken to avoid or prevent it. I don’t plan on getting rid of my 335 anytime soon and as long as I have a good mechanic to keep it well maintained, I will keep it till whenever I think it’s time to let it go. So that's my 100,000 milestone update in a nutshell. Sorry again for the long post. Appreciate your questions or comments (positive or negative). It's all good. Last edited by jt335i; 11-13-2018 at 04:50 PM.. |
11-12-2018, 08:42 PM | #2 |
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At first I thought you had N55.
N54 can be a nightmare over 100k. Especially on original turbos. Get a walnut blasting if you haven’t already. Best of luck to you. Your unexplained vibrations could be due to runflats being curbed. If your not on runflats, you probably have a bent rim. |
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11-12-2018, 09:24 PM | #3 | |
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As for the unexplained vibrations, I never had that issue as I indicated as 'None' in the list of commonly posted issues. I ditched the OEM RFTs as soon as it was time for a new set of tires. Went with non-RFT Michelin PSSs and never went back. The ride and handling was so much better over those RFTs.
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2010 BMW 335i: Monaco blue metallic/Premium+Sport Auto-Steptronic, BMW PE, Cobb Stage 2
2005 Mustang GT: Redfire metallic/5-spd/Ford Racing (Axle backs, silver Bullitt wheels)/K&N CAI/ Diablo Sport Predator Tuner 1997 Toyota Corolla 1983 Mercedes Benz 380SL Roadster |
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11-13-2018, 04:28 AM | #4 |
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Congrats on the milestone. The one thing about the E9X chassis is how well it ages (it doesn't). The paint and interior stay almost brand new.
I do have to ask... a broken brake sensor? How'd that happen?
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A manual transmission can be set to "comfort", "sport", and "track" modes simply by the technique and speed at which you shift it; it doesn't need "modes", modes are for manumatics that try to behave like a real 3-pedal manual transmission. If you can money-shift it, it's a manual transmission. "Yeah, but NO ONE puts an automatic trans shift knob on a manual transmission."
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11-13-2018, 07:08 AM | #5 |
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wow you have had a good run with minimal issues.....also very detailed summary of issues and lack thereof
come on drive some more to show us that 200000 mile report: All the best! |
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11-13-2018, 08:56 AM | #6 | |
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Regarding the brake sensor. Not sure how it broke, but I remember driving around one day and all of a sudden the brake service indicator popped up and I noticed the miles to service going down very rapidly. I had the rear brakes done that long ago, so I figured there was nothing wrong with the brakes because I didn't notice anything out of the ordinary when braking. When I took it to my trusted mechanic, he found a sensor was broken and replaced it. Said I may have driven over something that may have struck and broke it. Anyway the issue was solved.
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2010 BMW 335i: Monaco blue metallic/Premium+Sport Auto-Steptronic, BMW PE, Cobb Stage 2
2005 Mustang GT: Redfire metallic/5-spd/Ford Racing (Axle backs, silver Bullitt wheels)/K&N CAI/ Diablo Sport Predator Tuner 1997 Toyota Corolla 1983 Mercedes Benz 380SL Roadster |
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11-13-2018, 08:59 AM | #7 | |
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Will definitely do a 200,000 mile write up whenever it gets to that point.
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2005 Mustang GT: Redfire metallic/5-spd/Ford Racing (Axle backs, silver Bullitt wheels)/K&N CAI/ Diablo Sport Predator Tuner 1997 Toyota Corolla 1983 Mercedes Benz 380SL Roadster Last edited by jt335i; 11-13-2018 at 09:54 AM.. |
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11-13-2018, 09:18 AM | #8 |
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Congrats, especially on the N54!
I'm About to approach 250,000km (granted, on a N52) and it's definitely a good feeling knowing that your car didn't fall into the "poor German reliability" category. |
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11-13-2018, 02:18 PM | #9 |
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At first i was like 100k miles for an e90 is nothing. Then I realized it's N54. Hehe.... yeah congrats are in order.
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11-13-2018, 04:53 PM | #10 | ||
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Quote:
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Even my trusted mechanic is amazed at how well maintained my car is compared to other 335s he has serviced.
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2010 BMW 335i: Monaco blue metallic/Premium+Sport Auto-Steptronic, BMW PE, Cobb Stage 2
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11-13-2018, 08:24 PM | #11 | |
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Ive flogged the hell out of chassis over 200k and engines over 100k for years in BMWs (flogged as in SCCA racing + driving like a general mid 20s asshat). |
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11-14-2018, 10:07 AM | #12 |
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I know what yo are trying to say. I am not sure I'd call 100,000 miles on an n54/55 an "elite club". Perhaps 200,000 miles or more might be a better measuring stick when saying "elite club" to be honest. There are not too many n54/55 engines out there over 200,000 miles. At least not yet.
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11-14-2018, 10:30 AM | #13 |
0-335 in 4.9 seconds.....
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Elite Club
Now that you mentioned everything that has gone wrong with everyone else's car...it'll start happening to you..
It's like a goalie in hockey...getting close to the end of the game with a shutout... and the play by play guys mention "he's on his way to a shut out in this game.....and BLAMO!!!...he lets one in..and the spell is broken...just saying. Congrats on getting this far...hopefully you keep on trucking event free. |
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11-14-2018, 12:56 PM | #14 | ||
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If or when my ride gets to 200K miles I'll call it the "200,000 Premier Elite Club". Quote:
Thanks bro!
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2010 BMW 335i: Monaco blue metallic/Premium+Sport Auto-Steptronic, BMW PE, Cobb Stage 2
2005 Mustang GT: Redfire metallic/5-spd/Ford Racing (Axle backs, silver Bullitt wheels)/K&N CAI/ Diablo Sport Predator Tuner 1997 Toyota Corolla 1983 Mercedes Benz 380SL Roadster |
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11-14-2018, 05:17 PM | #16 | |
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As far as 100k maintenance: 1) new coils 2) new plugs 3) new coolant 4) new trans oil & megatronic sleeve 5) new diff oil 6) new brake fluid 7) new power steering fluid & filter (reservoir) Start saving for new shocks & struts plus all the surrounding hardware Start saving for all the front control arms, rear control arms, subframe bushings, rear control arms bushings in the subframe, and diff bushings etc. Start saving for new engine & trans mounts. Basically, in the next 25,000 miles you are going to want to redo the entire suspension top to bottom & everything in between. Last, once you redo all the fluids, I'd probably stick to 50,000 mile intervals on the trans, diff, coolant & power steering fluids. The parts for these components are not brand new anymore and therefore having fresher fluid more often would be a smart idea. Good luck getting to 200k. I'm at 158k. In about 2 1/2 years, I'll be at 200k |
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11-15-2018, 03:58 PM | #17 | |
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Thank you for the tips, will add those to the list of things for my mechanic to check. Regarding the 100k maintenance, some are already done previously and/or on the list to be done or checked. 1) new coils - Replaced 2016 2) new plugs - Replaced 2016 3) new coolant – Replaced 2017. To be checked. 4) new trans oil & megatronic sleeve - Added to maintenance check list 5) new diff oil - Added to maintenance check list 6) new brake fluid – Done last year. On the maintenance check list 7) new power steering fluid & filter (reservoir) - Added to maintenance check list Good luck to you too!
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11-16-2018, 10:37 AM | #18 |
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130,xxx on my N51. Keep that N54 healthy man!
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11-19-2018, 07:28 AM | #19 |
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Will do bro. Will be bringing my ride to my mechanic this week.
Thanks! Same to yours.
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11-19-2018, 07:42 AM | #20 |
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Impossible we all know these cars self-destruct at 99k miles. Wallet rape begins a day after warranty ends and catastrophic engine failure at 99K.
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11-19-2018, 08:58 AM | #21 |
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Good stuff man, glad to know there is life after 100k.
My 2008 N54 335i just hit 100k about a week ago. I've been preparing myself for this milestone for about a month now by ordering a few things to replace (new valve cover, spark plugs, coil packs). Looking forward to the 150k update! |
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12-05-2018, 12:22 PM | #22 | ||
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Just got my ride back from my trusted mechanic.
He did a 100,000 mile service and everything (i.e. serpentine belt, cooling system, fluids, etc.,etc.) checked out A-OK. All he needed to do was change the oil and replaced the front brake pads and rotors. Quote:
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Good you're getting things prepped. Keep that ride running smooth like a well oiled machine.
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2010 BMW 335i: Monaco blue metallic/Premium+Sport Auto-Steptronic, BMW PE, Cobb Stage 2
2005 Mustang GT: Redfire metallic/5-spd/Ford Racing (Axle backs, silver Bullitt wheels)/K&N CAI/ Diablo Sport Predator Tuner 1997 Toyota Corolla 1983 Mercedes Benz 380SL Roadster |
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