[e90dum]

Hey, I'm about to order some n52 Active Autoworke headers from a guy on here and it just dawned on me I have no idea how to install them. I found:
http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=811982
but that was it and it tells me to remove the valve cover, but in the pictures the valve cover was still on. .-.
If anyone is familiar with this project/knows of a guide that'd be awesome
car is a 2010 328i

[Dan Bilzerian]

Post in your local thread and see if someone can help you. I don't know if this is a job you should be taking on if you have no idea to install them.

[JuniorB]

This is a straight ,forward job,that has good strong mechanicals skills,if you have to ask,find an Indy,or a good outside tech. I guess if this isn't a time restricted job,you can do it, There is extensive write ups on this. I'll be installing aa headers in my e60, using e90 midpipes,I'll document all of this since I haven't found one person who has done this. If you try to do it,document all your sensors and have the right tools,and be safe!,

[e90dum]

Originally Posted by JuniorB

There is extensive write ups on this.

Are you kidding me dude?



Okay, thanks I guess. I can't find any guides other than the one linked. I guess I'll just use that and figure it out myself. I've got all the tools needed, even got a lift to use, I want a layman guide(or any damn guide) on how to do this.

[W37V]

Originally Posted by e90dum

Are you kidding me dude?



Okay, thanks I guess. I can't find any guides other than the one linked. I guess I'll just use that and figure it out myself. I've got all the tools needed, even got a lift to use, I want a layman guide(or any damn guide) on how to do this.

I did the job myself. You don't need anything special. The guide you linked is actually very straightforward.

You do not need to remove valve cover. You do need to remove engine cover - just the plastic piece that covers coils etc.

From tools you will need:
For headers:
11mm wrench, 11mm wrench with flexible head, 11mm shallow socket, 11mm deep socket, 15mm socket, 15mm wrench (optional)

+ any other tools to remove AC air filter, engine cover, and (just move it - do not remove it) coolant reservoir.

Shit will happen - but don't worry about it - like the entire bolt coming out - just put it back in.

Mark your connectors - some tape works just fine - that way you know where they go.

Do not try to remove oxygen sensor while they are on the car. Remove them and transfer them to the new headers while they are out - one by one.

[Eddien123]

I'm going to follow this thread and if you do manage to figure it out post videos!

[Ruddigger]

Me too, had these headers sitting in my room for months now.

[W37V]

Originally Posted by Eddien123

I'm going to follow this thread and if you do manage to figure it out post videos!

Originally Posted by Ruddigger

Me too, had these headers sitting in my room for months now.

What do you want to know?

Follow this to remove everything that you need to remove to start removing headers (engine cover, etc.). Video is shot on 335. It's the same process on 328.

• Next - properly mark your wires. Disconnect your O2 sensors (just connectors). (see picture in my previous post). DO NOT UNSCREW 02 sensors from headers - yet.
• Loosen your coolant reservoir and move to side - you will need any space you can get.
• Crawl under the car. Remove underbody plastic panels. - mark your lower o2 sensors and their connectors (if you need to see how to do this, google how to change oil on e90)
• Unscrew 18 bolts (11mm bolts). Use your new headers to see the pattern to see where your bolts are located. Unscrew them all. Some bolts are only accessible from below.
• Unscrew bolts holding together your header and exhaust. (15mm)
• DO NOT unscrew o2 sensors while they are attached to the car.
• remove headers from the car
• one by one remove and immediately screw in the o2 sensors from old header to the new one. This eliminates any potential mess up.
• Remove any O rings that are still in the engine block (just feel with your finger if they are there and remove them if they are). If they are stuck, use force (screwdriver) - you are replacing these anyways.
• Put your headers back in. You will need to play with them. I think first one goes in 1st - but kind of ended up being both going in at the same time.
• Place O rings on the header tips
• Barely place few bolts on to hold your headers in place
• Connect your exhaust pipes - do not over tighten.
• Start tightening your headers - do cross bolting so you are not over tightening just one side etc.
• tighten your exhaust bolts
• Tip: you might need to loosen one of the brackets (in the middle of the car) holding the exhaust
• connect all your o2 sensors - make sure they are connected accurately
• tip: your O2 sensor wires will be fully extended and will not be able to be routed in the old pattern - clip them to your firewall (piece of metal between the engine and interior compartment )
• double check everything
• put back underbody plastic
• put back the coolant reservoir in its place
• put back engine cover
• and everything else
  
  DONE!
  

This took me about 11 hours. However, I did not have proper tools, so the time includes me running to the store and getting tools. One of my bolts from the package was not correct. I had to find a replacement.

With proper tools and no issues, this can be done in as little as few hours.

it's tedious job. BE PATIENT!

Also covered it here:
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...5#post19123095

[e90dum]

Originally Posted by W37V

What do you want to know?

Follow this to remove everything that you need to remove to start removing headers (engine cover, etc.). Video is shot on 335. It's the same process on 328.

• Next - properly mark your wires. Disconnect your O2 sensors (just connectors). (see picture in my previous post). DO NOT UNSCREW 02 sensors from headers - yet.
• Loosen your coolant reservoir and move to side - you will need any space you can get.
• Crawl under the car. Remove underbody plastic panels. - mark your lower o2 sensors and their connectors (if you need to see how to do this, google how to change oil on e90)
• Unscrew 18 bolts (11mm bolts). Use your new headers to see the pattern to see where your bolts are located. Unscrew them all. Some bolts are only accessible from below.
• Unscrew bolts holding together your header and exhaust. (15mm)
• DO NOT unscrew o2 sensors while they are attached to the car.
• remove headers from the car
• one by one remove and immediately screw in the o2 sensors from old header to the new one. This eliminates any potential mess up.
• Remove any O rings that are still in the engine block (just feel with your finger if they are there and remove them if they are). If they are stuck, use force (screwdriver) - you are replacing these anyways.
• Put your headers back in. You will need to play with them. I think first one goes in 1st - but kind of ended up being both going in at the same time.
• Place O rings on the header tips
• Barely place few bolts on to hold your headers in place
• Connect your exhaust pipes - do not over tighten.
• Start tightening your headers - do cross bolting so you are not over tightening just one side etc.
• tighten your exhaust bolts
• Tip: you might need to loosen one of the brackets (in the middle of the car) holding the exhaust
• connect all your o2 sensors - make sure they are connected accurately
• tip: your O2 sensor wires will be fully extended and will not be able to be routed in the old pattern - clip them to your firewall (piece of metal between the engine and interior compartment )
• double check everything
• put back underbody plastic
• put back the coolant reservoir in its place
• put back engine cover
• and everything else
  
  DONE!
  

This took me about 11 hours. However, I did not have proper tools, so the time includes me running to the store and getting tools. One of my bolts from the package was not correct. I had to find a replacement.

With proper tools and no issues, this can be done in as little as few hours.

it's tedious job. BE PATIENT!

Also covered it here:
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...5#post19123095

I can't thank you enough dude!! I'll update this thread when I get em done, they should be coming in next week

[W37V]

Originally Posted by e90dum

I can't thank you enough dude!! I'll update this thread when I get em done, they should be coming in next week

no problem man. Good luck. It really is not difficult at all.

Also, if it easier, you can hold off on connecting headers and exhaust and do it after you tighten the headers on completely. Headers and exhaust might not align properly, so don't be afraid to use some force.

Another tip: Check everything after few days just to make sure nothing got lose.

And another tip: when you start the car for the first time, the headers will start smoking - nothing to worry about - it's just oil burning.

If you have any other questions, feel free to ask. People have done this swap and can answer your questions.

Are you getting a tune as well? If so, which one?

[e90dum]

Originally Posted by W37V

no problem man. Good luck. It really is not difficult at all.

Also, if it easier, you can hold off on connecting headers and exhaust and do it after you tighten the headers on completely. Headers and exhaust might not align properly, so don't be afraid to use some force.

Another tip: Check everything after few days just to make sure nothing got lose.

And another tip: when you start the car for the first time, the headers will start smoking - nothing to worry about - it's just oil burning.

If you have any other questions, feel free to ask. People have done this swap and can answer your questions.

Are you getting a tune as well? If so, which one?

Thanks for all the tips. I'm gonna print out everything ya said so I got something to stare at when I go to do it. I was gonna get the active autoworke until I realised it prolly won't make a difference if I'm using a different companies tune. Sooo the cheapest used one I can find unless someone does a sale again(550 just sounds way too high to me but tbf I'm new to this). I'm also not getting a tune until I get a 3 stage intake manifold installed, don't wana spend more money than i need to

[W37V]

Just FYI... IF you are planning on doing 3IM, you could get 3IM tune immediately even thou you don't have 3im installed. it's not going to cause any issues (I run 3im tune for a month without 3im installed). And when you install the intake, you get the full advantage of it. Check their vendor section. They sometimes have it for $450. TO install the tune, you might need to get Simon tool, use some authorized local tuner, or send the ECU to them.

[e90dum]

Originally Posted by W37V

Just FYI... IF you are planning on doing 3IM, you could get 3IM tune immediately even thou you don't have 3im installed. it's not going to cause any issues (I run 3im tune for a month without 3im installed). And when you install the intake, you get the full advantage of it. Check their vendor section. They sometimes have it for $450. TO install the tune, you might need to get Simon tool, use some authorized local tuner, or send the ECU to them.

That doesn't sound bad, I'll check it out.


Thanks!

[JuniorB]

No I wasn't kidding,you apparently were not looking hard enough,see what happens when you ask,you get a reply. Follow the advise and take your time.

[e90dum]

Originally Posted by JuniorB

No I wasn't kidding,you apparently were not looking hard enough,see what happens when you ask,you get a reply. Follow the advise and take your time.

i have no words

[Delusive]

This is fairly an easy straightforward job to do when you have all the tools, knowledge, and skills.

My first time I just went head on without any instructions and it took me 10 hours by myself. Just follow W37V steps and you should be fine, just to add to the steps: having a friend help out when putting the new headers in helps alot. Make sure to give yourself some breaks so you don't cramp up from the weird angles you do from getting the hard to reach nuts. Also make sure not to mix the O2 sensors, if you do then it'll make your car run like crap. Misfires all day, but just to help you out and guide you.

Front Header (Bank 1) - Pre & Post Cat Black Sleeve O2 Sensor Wires
Back Header (Bank 2) - Pre & Post Cat Grey Sleeve O2 Sensor Wires

Can't remember if I missed anything but i've done headers on the N52's about 6 times now, I get it done in 4 hours easy with no breaks.

[e90dum]

Originally Posted by Delusive

I've done headers on the N52's about 6 times now

Expect some pms in the future


With the o2 sensors im pretty sure my AA headers dont have O2 sensors. What should i be doing with the cables if thats the case?

[W37V]

Originally Posted by e90dum

Expect some pms in the future


With the o2 sensors im pretty sure my AA headers dont have O2 sensors. What should i be doing with the cables if thats the case?

what?

Of course AA headers don't come with o2 sensors, but holes are there. you will transfer o2 sensors from your stock headers - reuse them.

[SDemetris]

as the pictures show, make sure you have female torx sockets in case a stud comes out of the head

[gqbriel]

Hi Guys,

I am going to install headers on my N52b25 - i have one question - do i need a new software immediatelly after doing so in order the car to run properly?
Also will i get O2 sensor error when I put on the sensors to the headers?

[hassmaschine]

it will run OK, just not at full power. you will get O2 sensor errors without a tune.

[l3ricktop]

Hello together,
ive bought a set of Schmiedmann headers recently and im worried about one thing - the position of primary O2 sensor on bank 2 seems to be not ok, as the O2 sensor is placed in the middle tube right before the tubes are connected to the collection piping (see picture please).



My question is - do you think it will work properly? I mean if the O2 sensor will give correct information about fuel combustion from only one pot...

The Supersprint headers has got both holes (prim & sec O2) right down in collection piping.

It is possible to change the position of the sensors (that is the way im about to go):
Like i will take the primary O2 on bank 2 and plug in it to the hole for secondary O2 in the collection piping where is conjunction of all 3 pipes to ensure the 02 will have correct values from all 3 cylinders connected to the bank 2 header.
The secondary O2 will be plugged in the hole for primary as i will use O2 spacers to bypass it anyway (it will be just a cork).

When i had a look on 'ebay headers' those has got both wholes for primary O2 right at the top of middle pipe on each bank - how such a thing can work properly?