[Tr1ppy]

Originally Posted by SID2GO

Ah cool, I dont notice much of the cold shaking with mine but I had mine on the dyno and it was also making 230bhp. I did the AFR and it shows a slight drop after 4750rpm. I just changed my spark plugs today but they all seem to look in good health.

Also do you monitor your nox cat using carly? have you done a run to burn off the sulphur that is stored in the cat?

Sorry just read the replies to this thread.

I have Carly 1st generation but I'm not sure how to monitor the Nox. do you know which settings it is?

And how do you burn off the sulphur in the cat? Is it similar to forcing a DPF regen on a diesel by a spirited, high rev run for about half an hour or so?

Glad to hear your issues are sorted anyway mate, I really hope BMW take note of this and revise the injectors again. I think N54 engines are up to Rev12

[SID2GO]

Originally Posted by Tr1ppy

Sorry just read the replies to this thread.

I have Carly 1st generation but I'm not sure how to monitor the Nox. do you know which settings it is?

And how do you burn off the sulphur in the cat? Is it similar to forcing a DPF regen on a diesel by a spirited, high rev run for about half an hour or so?

Glad to hear your issues are sorted anyway mate, I really hope BMW take note of this and revise the injectors again. I think N54 engines are up to Rev12

if you go onto the carly cockpit view, you will see the orange icons one of them is named "NOX". you will of course have to pay 8-10 euro to unlock it. once you in you can check the sulphur content by selecting the "start nox check". if you want to do a regeneration on it you will have to press the request regen. in order for the regen to work i had drive the car on the motorway at 4000rpm, this will force the exhaust temp to rise quicker and the diesel dpf also requires the user to drive at 4000rpm. (strange how no one mentioned about it for the petrol engines). while doing the regen you can still use the nox check feature to see the exhaust temps and the sulfur mass.
sulphur content should start burning somewhere around 680-800 degrees Celsius (forgot as i did this 3/4 months ago)

all i can say in my experience, my sulphur mass was at 850mg (max should be 400mg) and that obviously took longer then 30mins. just make sure you have a full tank of fuel. it doesn't matter if its cheap asda or expensive shell ultra

[SID2GO]

Originally Posted by Dormermike

Indeed. They do work an awful lot harder than normal injectors as there are multiple squirts during stratified mode... personally I'd switch off stratified mode if it was possible.

I had mine deleted off the map and the second set of cats deleted. now it only shows homogen... something (forgot how it was spelt)

[Dormermike]

Originally Posted by SID2GO

I had mine deleted off the map and the second set of cats deleted. now it only shows homogen... something (forgot how it was spelt)

Interesting. Does it sound different at idle?

I've noticed on mine occasionally if it's sat idling for a while the engine note changes and it sounds very quiet... like a normal port injected straight 6 of old.. I would love to get that permanently!

[Tr1ppy]

Originally Posted by SID2GO

if you go onto the carly cockpit view, you will see the orange icons one of them is named "NOX". you will of course have to pay 8-10 euro to unlock it. once you in you can check the sulphur content by selecting the "start nox check". if you want to do a regeneration on it you will have to press the request regen. in order for the regen to work i had drive the car on the motorway at 4000rpm, this will force the exhaust temp to rise quicker and the diesel dpf also requires the user to drive at 4000rpm. (strange how no one mentioned about it for the petrol engines). while doing the regen you can still use the nox check feature to see the exhaust temps and the sulfur mass.
sulphur content should start burning somewhere around 680-800 degrees Celsius (forgot as i did this 3/4 months ago)

all i can say in my experience, my sulphur mass was at 850mg (max should be 400mg) and that obviously took longer then 30mins. just make sure you have a full tank of fuel. it doesn't matter if its cheap asda or expensive shell ultra

Brilliant thanks mate I dont mind paying a bit for the add-on in order to reduce Nox levels.
The regen procedure sound similar to diesels; guess it makes sense to increase the revs in order to help burn the sulphur off.

Originally Posted by SID2GO

I had mine deleted off the map and the second set of cats deleted. now it only shows homogen... something (forgot how it was spelt)

Yeah I think its homogeneous....basically similar to port injection.

How is the car without secondary cats in terms of power and noise? Do you get pops/crackles on the overrun?

[SID2GO]

Originally Posted by Tr1ppy

Brilliant thanks mate I dont mind paying a bit for the add-on in order to reduce Nox levels.
The regen procedure sound similar to diesels; guess it makes sense to increase the revs in order to help burn the sulphur off.




Yeah I think its homogeneous....basically similar to port injection.

How is the car without secondary cats in terms of power and noise? Do you get pops/crackles on the overrun?

car runs perfectly normal without the second cats and will pass the MOT emissions as you will still have the cats on the manifold. no pops n crackles but that can be achieved with a back box delete even without the second cat delete. but in my opinion i would either replace the rear silencer box with something else as it gets annoying due to drone.

[SID2GO]

Originally Posted by Dormermike

Interesting. Does it sound different at idle?

I've noticed on mine occasionally if it's sat idling for a while the engine note changes and it sounds very quiet... like a normal port injected straight 6 of old.. I would love to get that permanently!

sound wise it does have a slight raspy (a little like the e46 m3) when high revving and a beefier tone when slowly accelerating, wont be able to hear it properly unless you have the rear windows wide open or let someone else drive it. other then that it sounds the same as before when sitting in the car with your windows closed. I do miss my e46 320D when i had the ecotune down pipe as i could hear the turbos spool

[leew88]

I also had N53 530i dyno'd recently at Surrey Rolling Road, 244bhp / 248 lbs/ft. This is the calculated flywheel figures by the way. They didn't provide me with the wheel figure print-out as most people are only interested in the flywheel number, but he told me verbally that my wheel figure was 210bhp / 214 lbf/ft so they used a 14% loss to calculate the flywheel figures. He also said my fuelling AFR is fine and my car has no running issues no fault codes etc.

Please can you post your RR print-out as it would good to compare like-for-like.

[SID2GO]

Sold my car to my cousin as i gave up and wanted something with a turbo, so i brought a audi a4 2.0T quattro.
But anyway i am curious if the power loss has got something to do with the intank fuel strainer which acts like a fuel filter. Obviously the cars ecu might take that in consideration if its getting a slight low fuel so it adjust the power maybe? i would also like to point out the following work i had done on the engine
2nd cat delete (nox cats) and nox burn cycle just incase
oil change
spark plugs
air filter
6x rev 11 injectors and program to the ecu by a indy BMW tech
wall nut blast (valves didnt look that bad)

the things i have not done are followed:
coil pack
intank fuel strainer

[Dormermike]

Wonder if these were ever 268bhp from factory?

[Sandy335]

Please bear in mind that rolling roads are not exact devices for power measurement, I test/tune engines on engine dynos and rolling roads professionally and know the limitations of trust that can be applied! In the case of eddy brake rollers, torque at the roller is what's measured and there are a lot of ifs between that and the true flywheel output. All figures are estimated, "wheels" and "flywheel"; they way each rolling road does that varies and relies on a combination of roller torque raw, rate of acceleration (vs inertia estimate), environmental observations and engine temps/pressure (although later is rarely used in practice). The success of the estimates against the reality varies and is not consistent, due to tyre/transmission and environmental variables, so it's a fools paradise to say "these rollers are heart breakers" or "these rollers speak the truth" and other common clichés, it's just not that simple.
Your best hope is to find a rolling road operator with a good enough understanding of their machine, to give you reasonably consistent results on your car and use that as a base line. If you really want to know if your engine is comparable with stock original, you'll have to tear it all out and find a good engine dyno, which would an unjustifiable amount of hassle.