[Torqu3]

So as the title says, I want to know what modifications can be done to these cars without the need to take them in to a tuner.

I saw a thread about removing the DPF that didn't really look too hard, but I assume I'd have to get it coded out somehow or it's going to put me in limp mode.

Also, everyone here talks about EGR blockoff plates. Can I install those myself and not need to get the EGR coded out, or will that cause big issues as well?

Since BPC won't be doing anything past stage 1 anymore, my options seem fairly limited, but is there any company that can tune the car remotely, or any independent shops I can take my car to that will code out the emissions stuff? I'm new to coding on cars so am not familiar with what is and isn't needed. Thanks!

[TorqueAddict]

Red scoops are one of the famous mods. i'm sure PR can explain the benefits of those.

[HeatherM35d]

Best mod on torqueaddicts car is the shit stain on the passenger seat.

[GaryE30]

DPF removal will generate a code and require tuning because you will lose the DPF and the DEF injection system.

You can install the EGR block plates yourself pretty easily, but you will get a CEL (check engine light). Your car will not go into limp mode or anything and your performance will remain the same, but you will have a dash light on if you can live with that. At least at that point, you won't be generating as much CBU.

A nice "mod" you can do is a Carbon Build-Up cleaning. I say "mod" because more than likely there is some build-up and by removing it, your car will run more efficiently (both power/MPG).

You can also install a JBD tuner. This box alters the voltage reading for the fuel injection system and the computer "corrects" it by supplying more fuel resulting in more power. These will not usually throw a code unless you don't let the car warm up to operating temperature before driving hard. This also doesn't require any modification to the emissions system of the car. New they're close to $280-$300. You can find them used from $100-$200.

[gavronm]

Originally Posted by GaryE30

DPF removal will generate a code and require tuning because you will lose the DPF and the DEF injection system.

You can install the EGR block plates yourself pretty easily, but you will get a CEL (check engine light). Your car will not go into limp mode or anything and your performance will remain the same, but you will have a dash light on if you can live with that. At least at that point, you won't be generating as much CBU.

A nice "mod" you can do is a Carbon Build-Up cleaning. I say "mod" because more than likely there is some build-up and by removing it, your car will run more efficiently (both power/MPG).

You can also install a JBD tuner. This box alters the voltage reading for the fuel injection system and the computer "corrects" it by supplying more fuel resulting in more power. These will not usually throw a code unless you don't let the car warm up to operating temperature before driving hard. This also doesn't require any modification to the emissions system of the car. New they're close to $280-$300. You can find them used from $100-$200.

I second all of this and post only to add that if you decide to block the EGR there are tools out there that will automatically reset the check engine light for you so it's not on all the time. The only tool I've used personally is the Burger CANtool but I don't think they are selling them anymore. I've seen several ads for used JBDs that also include the CANtool so they are out there. If you go this route you'll want to manually check the codes every now and then to make sure something else hasn't gone wrong because the CANtool will reset all the codes, not just the ones caused by the EGR block.

Personally, when I was at my "most modded" I was running a JBD, EGR block, Burger CANtool, and Dinan fixed camber plates. I'm down to just the JBD and camber plates right now.

[Torqu3]

Originally Posted by GaryE30

DPF removal will generate a code and require tuning because you will lose the DPF and the DEF injection system.

You can install the EGR block plates yourself pretty easily, but you will get a CEL (check engine light). Your car will not go into limp mode or anything and your performance will remain the same, but you will have a dash light on if you can live with that. At least at that point, you won't be generating as much CBU.

A nice "mod" you can do is a Carbon Build-Up cleaning. I say "mod" because more than likely there is some build-up and by removing it, your car will run more efficiently (both power/MPG).

You can also install a JBD tuner. This box alters the voltage reading for the fuel injection system and the computer "corrects" it by supplying more fuel resulting in more power. These will not usually throw a code unless you don't let the car warm up to operating temperature before driving hard. This also doesn't require any modification to the emissions system of the car. New they're close to $280-$300. You can find them used from $100-$200.

In regards to CBU, is there any part I can easily look at to see how bad CBU is on my car? The car has previously been cleaned, and I don't want to spend $1000 to clean it again if it isn't really necessary.

[RollingCoal]

You can also do a W/M Injection kit. This will help to keep CBU at bay and help with the JBD if you decide to go that route.

[BB_cuda]

Originally Posted by Torqu3

In regards to CBU, is there any part I can easily look at to see how bad CBU is on my car? The car has previously been cleaned, and I don't want to spend $1000 to clean it again if it isn't really necessary.

Gotta pull the intake and look in the runners. Anything else is a tease.
How many miles since CBU blasting?

[BB_cuda]

Originally Posted by HeatherM35d

Best mod on torqueaddicts car is the shit stain on the passenger seat.

Where ya been?

[Torqu3]

Under 50k miles since blasting, so it's likely due for it again. If I were to pull the intake, would I need to replace gaskets or anything? I've considered W/M injection but I don't know if that's very DIY friendly.

[BB_cuda]

You need the rectangular and round port gaskets at a minimum. Some here have reused them. There are some (7) other orange crush washers that are on the underneath side of rectangular port fasteners. They normally get messed up a little. I've pulled intake 2 times and needed a few each time. Go ahead and buy all seven. Clean up the swirl flaps. I use cleaner from Walmart in the purple jug called Super clean.

[WreckerX5d]

Originally Posted by BB_cuda

Where ya been?

The shemale's been busy with trucks. I think there's a correlation between weather and forum posts lol.

[BB_cuda]

Originally Posted by BB_cuda

You need the rectangular and round port gaskets at a minimum. Some here have reused them. There are some (7) other orange crush washers that are on the underneath side of rectangular port fasteners. They normally get messed up a little. I've pulled intake 2 times and needed a few each time. Go ahead and buy all seven. Clean up the swirl flaps. I use cleaner from Walmart in the purple jug called Super clean.

I don't think I was real clear as I wrote this from phone last night. A picture is worth a thousand words. I borrowed this pic from a guy showing his 5 series intake cleaning. The actuation of the swirl flaps is different than on our manifold.

Here is an realoem link to get those part numbers. The picture shows the rectangular (item #2) and round port (item #3)seals.
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...76#11612246949

Item #7 is the orange shims. They are located in between the rectangular seals in the photo. The realoem link is misleading in this regard if you where the #7 is shown (by the round ports). I also have a pic of the bag of the shims too with part number on it. Look back at the manifold pic and notice that one of those orange rubber shims is missing (third from left). It's laying on the newspaper if you can see it. My point of mention is often these guys fall off when you're pulling the intake off the head. I've been thankful that I was able to find them and thus rule out that one of them fell INTO ONE OF THE HEAD'S PORTS. They are sort of captured by the intake but it is not foolproof. These little guys seems to get beat up a little and I reuse some of them and replace the smashed/ovaled/distorted ones. This is why I recommend to buy them ahead of time (all 7). If you pull intake multiple times, rest assured they will get used.

In my earlier post, I suggested to clean the swirl flaps while intake is off. You will lead to
1) remove the swirl flap actuator
2) remove the black rod that connects actuator to the individual flaps. There are small little pins sticking from the rod that fit into a slot on the swirls.
3) remove 2 fasteners (torx heads) for each swirl flap
4) try out the swirls using a small flathead screwdriver
5) I soaked the flaps in a chemical called Super Clean that Walmart sells (purple jug). it turns the CBU to easily wiped off material. There may be some stuff needing scraped off but this chemical greatly helps.

I have seen a couple instances of people posting that the black rod's pins had a little "mushroomed" end on them that prevented pulling the pins from the slots. I have my OEM intake and another (thanks again bodacious) and neither one had the mushroomed pins on the black rod.

It is worth repeating. Be careful with the orange shims falling when the intake is pulled.

Another guy wrote a really good thread on getting the intake off before he did the CBU cleaning. That pesky panel on the firewall is KEY. I'll try to find his thread and paste it in for reference.

I just remembered another thing that sort of slowed me down. The aft most nut that holds the rectangular ports can't be unscrewed unless you disconnect a sensor from the fuel rail back there. Do take your time and don't drop this nut as you are getting it lose. Same goes for putting it back on. We all hate to have make an unplanned trip to the dealer or worse have to wait a week for internet part order to arrive.