[ENIN3D]

Originally Posted by Pladi

is it the low coolant light ?

If you replaced it with the REIN tank they are garbage and their coolant sensor doesnt work. You need to replace the coolant level sensor.

I have had this issue.

I will do this today and give you some feedback. its definitely a REIN tank.

[ENIN3D]

Originally Posted by IllSic_Design

You said earlier you saw the coolant going from the bleeder line/hole and flowing into the reservoir tank when you initiated the bleeding process. That means the bleeding process was activated and running as you won't see that unless the bleeding process is going. You will hear gurgling sounds and water swishing around, it's very audible.

BUT when doing the bleeding process you need to have the expansion tank cap and bleeder screw closed.

After the process stops(about 12 min) then you need to slowly open the bleeder screw to release any trapped air and make sure a little coolant leaks out(you don't need to fully remove the bleed screw from the hole). If no coolant leaks out then you probably still have air in the system/not enough coolant. Check level in reservoir and repeat process if low. To know when the expansion tank is full you fill it until the orange plastic gauge with the two "balls" on it is sticking out with the lower ball level with the top of the expansion tank. DO NOT fill it until the orange gauge is sticking all the way out as far as it can.

THANK YOU! you know exactly what's going on. But, if we are indeed talking about the same bleeding process, the process starts as soon as I unlock my doors! it does EVERY SINGLE TIME. and those sounds are exactly what happens. and I actually timed it and it stops around 11 min and 47 seconds - 12 minutes 30 seconds. I haven't heard about the bleeder screw part though so I will give that a go around lunch time and see how it goes. AND, I don't think I have a plastic gauge in the 2011+ models, its a round ring inside the tank that says "max" I could be wrong. You are the man!

[ENIN3D]

Originally Posted by NFiftyWon

Probably a dumb question but you deleted the code, yes?

definitely did not delete that code, LOL only code I will be deleting as of right now, is the adaptive headlight code.

[bluewater328]

Originally Posted by ENIN3D

definitely did not delete that code, LOL only code I will be deleting as of right now, is the adaptive headlight code.

He's asking if you tried clearing all codes to see if it triggers again. Good practice to do so to see if things got resolved — sometimes the computer doesn't clear things right away. Thing is, are you getting anything like a yellow engine light or being put in limp (low rev) mode? Try and clear the error codes with an ODBII device, or better yet, INPA/ISTA and see what it reads after the restart.

Also, the bleed process definitely applies to a 2011 e90. I just this two days ago. Washer sound will come from the area below the expansion tank.

[PichaDis11]

Originally Posted by ENIN3D

.... I haven't heard about the bleeder screw part though so I will give that a go around lunch time and see how it goes. AND, I don't think I have a plastic gauge in the 2011+ models, its a round ring inside the tank that says "max" I could be wrong. You are the man!

This is correct about the tank change. There's now a Yellow ring with Min & Max Markings inside the tank.

So to clarify. Without attempting to run the bleed procedure, on a cold engine; the Water pump will run for 12+ minutes at times? (Assume ignition on)

Quick side note: I am local here in the ATL Area and could help out if you need. Shoot a PM.

[Pladi]

Originally Posted by ENIN3D

I will do this today and give you some feedback. its definitely a REIN tank.

U dont have to look further. Thats ur issue. The sensor that comes with the tank is garbage.

[NFiftyWon]

Originally Posted by bluewater328

He's asking if you tried clearing all codes to see if it triggers again. Good practice to do so to see if things got resolved — sometimes the computer doesn't clear things right away. Thing is, are you getting anything like a yellow engine light or being put in limp (low rev) mode? Try and clear the error codes with an ODBII device, or better yet, INPA/ISTA and see what it reads after the restart.

Also, the bleed process definitely applies to a 2011 e90. I just this two days ago. Washer sound will come from the area below the expansion tank.

+1

Computer doesnt read everything dynamically, or in real time. Once a code is there, it often wont leave even if the issue is resolved unless you manually remove it. Its very possible its already been resolved lol

[aaroncw]

Hey. Another newb here. 2011 335i sport edition.

I just bought the bmw coolant from dealer. ($26 / gallon in Tennessee)

I was under the impression there was a red stick floater to measure coolant level. But looking at this thread now I'm not sure how to measure it... no manual came with my car.

I do see a MAX floaty but's it's way down at bottom of reservoir. Any advice on proper filling?

Edit: no service lights at all, just decided to check my coolant after I smelled a "coolant burn" smell when I came to a stop in my driveway. I've been smelling it off and on a cpl days. Looks low to me. But again, no lights or warnings at all.

[sonofsun]

I can speak for the bleeding process. Changed my OFHG, tensioner, idler pulley and belt on my 2011 328 iXdrive, E90-N51 engine. As part of this drained 1.5 gal of coolant. Replaced with new BMW coolant and distilled water (50:50)

I opened the bleed screw fully and poured the coolant slowly into the expansion tank. Bleeding not started yet. Bubbles started coming our of the vent. Slowly liquid went up and down in the vent hole. Added exactly the same amount of coolant,

Closed the bleed screw tight and started the bleeding process. Checked level again, added little more coolant and did the bleeding process again. Started the engine with no codes except for CAS related code and combox emergency call fault.

[Dabrwright]

Originally Posted by ENIN3D

Good day everyone. Im fairly new to the BMW/E90 scene, not I am no stranger to cars. I've searched and searched for about 3 weeks since I bought this car and still could not find what I was looking for, hence making this thread. first off I just bought a 2011 bmw 335i m sport. the expansion tank had a crack in it, not the typical hairline crack, just a crack from who knows. I replaced the expansion tank and filled with coolant, bmw/distilled water, but its been 4 days and my engine coolant light is still on. there are no visible leaks on the car whatsoever. I check the tank when car is cooled and it is full, but the top radiator hose had a steady stream of coolant spraying into the tank, is that normal? my questions are:

1. Is it normal for the top radiator hose to refill the expansion tank every time I unlock my doors to get in the car? I know this because I unlock my door and hear the process start, when I pop the hood to check to check my coolant level, its a steady stream.

2. does the 2011 models have a coolant level float, or is it just the "MAX"
circular thing inside the tank? old tank didn't have one, new tank didn't either.

3. I've tried the bleeding process by the key in the ignition, gas pedal for 10 seconds with highest temp on low for 12 minutes, and it still doesn't work. not even sure this works on the 2011 models.


I haven't seen many threads on the 2011+ E90s, but are they the same as the 07-10?



you all's help is greatly appreciated. My first BMW and im enjoying it more than my S2K.

Maybe the stream into the expansion tank when you check the coolant level is just due to the reduction in pressure in the cooling system when opening the cap
When the system is pressurized, it will tend to push coolant out of the expansion tank. That’ s what the expansion tank is for

[ENIN3D]

Originally Posted by bluewater328

He's asking if you tried clearing all codes to see if it triggers again. Good practice to do so to see if things got resolved — sometimes the computer doesn't clear things right away. Thing is, are you getting anything like a yellow engine light or being put in limp (low rev) mode? Try and clear the error codes with an ODBII device, or better yet, INPA/ISTA and see what it reads after the restart.

Also, the bleed process definitely applies to a 2011 e90. I just this two days ago. Washer sound will come from the area below the expansion tank.

I just got the car, I ordered bimmergeeks plug and am waiting for it to arrive. i definitely did not try to clear the code, because when i refill, the code will turn off for about a day, then turn back on , or it will go off for half a day, then turn back on, that made me assume the sensor was working as well. then again, it could be the sensor tripping in and out?

[ENIN3D]

Originally Posted by PichaDis11

This is correct about the tank change. There's now a Yellow ring with Min & Max Markings inside the tank.

So to clarify. Without attempting to run the bleed procedure, on a cold engine; the Water pump will run for 12+ minutes at times? (Assume ignition on)

Quick side note: I am local here in the ATL Area and could help out if you need. Shoot a PM.

yes, without attempting to run the bleed procedure, on a cold engine, the water pump will run for 12+ minutes. as soon as i click the unlock button on the key fob, the trunk open on the key fob or even open the door on a cold engine, the process starts, and what part of ATL are you in? id love to get a more experienced person's input.

[ENIN3D]

Originally Posted by NFiftyWon

+1

Computer doesnt read everything dynamically, or in real time. Once a code is there, it often wont leave even if the issue is resolved unless you manually remove it. Its very possible its already been resolved lol

i hope so! the local autozone and advance really doesn't delete codes anymore.

[rt7085]

If you get the right cable and software (ISTA-D) you can start the bleed procedure from it. That will take the guessing out. And it will also be more instructive about what errors you actually have through the BMW codes. Worth the investment.

[ENIN3D]

New kicker! Dumb question but I’m going to ask anyways! Upon changing my coolant level sensor in my new tank, I notice when I turn the coolant tank sideways, it leaks from the cap! Is this a BMW feature? Never in my Honda days have this happened and everything I’ve searched was for a faulty cap that is torn or messed up, and it says it’s supposed to be a pressure reliever but I’m not sure how that works with the BMW!

[ENIN3D]

coolant issue solved. It was the sensor.