[mynewbmw]

I drive a 06 e90 323i and my blower fan isn't work. I've did some search and have come to a conclusion that its either the Final Stage resistor or the Fan Motor itself. My question is what do I determine which is the problem. First off I don't have the duel climate control digital thingy...all i have is the knob and a few buttons AC / defog etc.....All the buttons light up and edit the rear defogger is work. Its just when I turn on the fan nothing happens. Also I have recently found my passenger floor carpet a bit wet but I'm guessing that might have caused the problem. Anyways let me know what yall think....will BMW let me return parts if i bought the wrong one?

[Glim]

If it were me, I would take it in to BMW and have them give a repair estimate, if it is only a fuse and a blocked AC drain tube then pay them and enjoy the ride.

If it is major components then post it and will source the part numbers and the DIY.

[mynewbmw]

Doesn't BMW charge u for a diagnostic check??? I'm trying to avoid that at all cost cause the motor fan itself is like half the diagnostic check. Last time my buddy went in for a brake light thingy problem....they charged him $46 just to tell him what the problem was.

[Glim]

For free: If you do not have a code scanner I believe you can borrow one from a parts store.

Also you can check your fuses for free.

[ENINTY]

A few points.

Borrowing a code scanner from an auotparts store will not help your situation. Code scanners from the auto parts stores are just OBDII readers. They cannot read fault codes for the various modules in your E9x; they only read the trouble codes in the ECU, which are related just to the emissions control of the engine.

A BT scan tool, or other BMW specific scan tool may be able to find the fault with the HVAC blower, as they usually can test most of the functions on the car.

To check whether the AC drain is clogged, which could possibly cause a wet carpet, just check to see if a puddle of water forms on the ground near the center of the car (assuming you get the blower motor repaired). The AC drain runs down on the passenger-side of the transmission tunnel and drips out right around where the drive shaft connects to the transmission. The AC drain has a flap valve on it to prevent anything from clogging the end of the drain tube (like an insect building a nest).

The wet carpet could be caused by the cabin airfilter housing not being properly re-fitted after replacement of the cabin airfilter. This is a common problem with E9x's. If the tech incorrectly reassembles the filter housing, it cannot seal properly and will allow water to drop into the heater box (where the blower motor is).

If the fuse in the circuit is good then as you surmised, the problem is either the blower motor or the resistor pack that controls the blower speed. On older BMW models, when the resistor pack failed, the blower would still operate on the highest blower speed (where the is no resistor in the circuit to control the blower speed). The test for the older models was to put the blower speed on the highest setting and see of the blower worked. I'm not sure if this is a valid test for the E9x system.

Usually when the blower motor is damaged by water (the top bearing gets rusted) it will make noise long before it actually fails. If it just stopped one day out of the blue, then it's probably the resistor pack. The replacement for the blower and resistor pack is quite easy. There is a DIY for it in the DIY section. Considering BMW will charge you $100 diagnose the problem, then want to repair it for you, if you want to save money, try the resistor first. It will take you 10 minutes to replace. The wiring harness plugs into it, and it screws into the blower motor housing with 2 torx screws. If it is not the resistor, then the blower is probably at fault, which is easily replaced, but a bit more involved than just replacing the resistor pack. The blower will probably fail at some point anyway because it is prone to allow condensation eventually rust the top bearing of the motor shaft. The point is if you replace both parts and do the work yourself, it will still be cheaper than the dealer and you will have both new parts in the car with the confidence neither will fail anytime soon.

[mynewbmw]

Eninty great response buddy. To avoid spending the unneccessary would I be able to see any kinda signs (burnt marking etcc..) on the motor or resistor?? I seriously don't wanna waste any money on the parts that isn't busted. Btw would you happen to know how much the resistor and fan motor cost?? Will BMW let me return the part if I ordered it and it wasn't the part to fix the problem?

[ENINTY]

Originally Posted by mynewbmw

Eninty great response buddy. To avoid spending the unneccessary would I be able to see any kinda signs (burnt marking etcc..) on the motor or resistor?? I seriously don't wanna waste any money on the parts that isn't busted. Btw would you happen to know how much the resistor and fan motor cost?? Will BMW let me return the part if I ordered it and it wasn't the part to fix the problem?

I've been through this and wrote the DIY. The motor is not tough to take out, so if you want to inspect it first, just remove it and see if it still rotates. My blower failed over time and was making noise as the bearing kept wearing and the fan started to hit the housing. I think the early cars had a design defect in the motor that let the bearing get wet and rust. My blower did not just stop all of a sudden, which leads me to believe the resistor pack is the problem on your car.

Did you try the top fan speed position to see if the motor still works? GetBMWparts can tell you the pricing and what their return policy is. The blower is about $80 USD, I don't know about the resistor. If you buy both and can return either one, try the resistor pack first since you don't need to remove the blower to replace it. If the blower starts working with the new resistor pack, then just send the blower back without opening the box. If it were me, I'd just replace both and be done with it. If you can;t retrun the parts, then you'll have to get it diagnosed at a dealer, which will be more than the cost of the extra part.

[queensfield]

Should the battery be disconnected to replace the blower motor or resistor? BTW, great DIY by Eninty,

[ENINTY]

Originally Posted by queensfield

Should the battery be disconnected to replace the blower motor or resistor? BTW, great DIY by Eninty,

No need to. I recommend you never disconnect the battery unless you absolutely have to. These cars don't like to be without electricty...

[Kodak]

I just got this problem today, where exactly is the "resistor pack that controls the blower speed"?? I checked the Bentley manual and couldn't find it, any assistance would be appreciated.

Originally Posted by ENINTY

A few points.

Borrowing a code scanner from an auotparts store will not help your situation. Code scanners from the auto parts stores are just OBDII readers. They cannot read fault codes for the various modules in your E9x; they only read the trouble codes in the ECU, which are related just to the emissions control of the engine.

A BT scan tool, or other BMW specific scan tool may be able to find the fault with the HVAC blower, as they usually can test most of the functions on the car.

To check whether the AC drain is clogged, which could possibly cause a wet carpet, just check to see if a puddle of water forms on the ground near the center of the car (assuming you get the blower motor repaired). The AC drain runs down on the passenger-side of the transmission tunnel and drips out right around where the drive shaft connects to the transmission. The AC drain has a flap valve on it to prevent anything from clogging the end of the drain tube (like an insect building a nest).

The wet carpet could be caused by the cabin airfilter housing not being properly re-fitted after replacement of the cabin airfilter. This is a common problem with E9x's. If the tech incorrectly reassembles the filter housing, it cannot seal properly and will allow water to drop into the heater box (where the blower motor is).

If the fuse in the circuit is good then as you surmised, the problem is either the blower motor or the resistor pack that controls the blower speed. On older BMW models, when the resistor pack failed, the blower would still operate on the highest blower speed (where the is no resistor in the circuit to control the blower speed). The test for the older models was to put the blower speed on the highest setting and see of the blower worked. I'm not sure if this is a valid test for the E9x system.

Usually when the blower motor is damaged by water (the top bearing gets rusted) it will make noise long before it actually fails. If it just stopped one day out of the blue, then it's probably the resistor pack. The replacement for the blower and resistor pack is quite easy. There is a DIY for it in the DIY section. Considering BMW will charge you $100 diagnose the problem, then want to repair it for you, if you want to save money, try the resistor first. It will take you 10 minutes to replace. The wiring harness plugs into it, and it screws into the blower motor housing with 2 torx screws. If it is not the resistor, then the blower is probably at fault, which is easily replaced, but a bit more involved than just replacing the resistor pack. The blower will probably fail at some point anyway because it is prone to allow condensation eventually rust the top bearing of the motor shaft. The point is if you replace both parts and do the work yourself, it will still be cheaper than the dealer and you will have both new parts in the car with the confidence neither will fail anytime soon.

[ENINTY]

Originally Posted by Kodak

I just got this problem today, where exactly is the "resistor pack that controls the blower speed"?? I checked the Bentley manual and couldn't find it, any assistance would be appreciated.

It is on the blower motor. It's white with wires plugged into it. You have to remove the passengerside foot well dash panel to see it. It can be removed and replaced without removing the blower.

[Kodak]

Is this the " Blower final stage" as per the Bentley manual for a E90, 2006 sedan, 325xi ?
Thanks for the reply.

Originally Posted by ENINTY

It is on the blower motor. It's white with wires plugged into it. You have to remove the passengerside foot well dash panel to see it. It can be removed and replaced without removing the blower.

[mynewbmw]

I believe so.

Originally Posted by Kodak

Is this the " Blower final stage" as per the Bentley manual for a E90, 2006 sedan, 325xi ?
Thanks for the reply.

[queensfield]

+1 yes, same thing- "blower final stage" or resistor pack

[Kodak]

Thanks, I checked the fuse, it was good, so I ordered the part( FSU), hopefully that will work.

Originally Posted by ENINTY

It is on the blower motor. It's white with wires plugged into it. You have to remove the passengerside foot well dash panel to see it. It can be removed and replaced without removing the blower.

[Kodak]

Can you believe this one, I ordered the part (FSU) and all this time my blower wasn't working, and today I turn on the switch just for the hell of it, and behold, it freaking works now! I guess when the new part comes in I'll just put it in a safe place for future use.

If anyone has any other ideas of what could have caused this problem please let me know,thanks.

Originally Posted by ENINTY

A few points.

Borrowing a code scanner from an auotparts store will not help your situation. Code scanners from the auto parts stores are just OBDII readers. They cannot read fault codes for the various modules in your E9x; they only read the trouble codes in the ECU, which are related just to the emissions control of the engine.

A BT scan tool, or other BMW specific scan tool may be able to find the fault with the HVAC blower, as they usually can test most of the functions on the car.

To check whether the AC drain is clogged, which could possibly cause a wet carpet, just check to see if a puddle of water forms on the ground near the center of the car (assuming you get the blower motor repaired). The AC drain runs down on the passenger-side of the transmission tunnel and drips out right around where the drive shaft connects to the transmission. The AC drain has a flap valve on it to prevent anything from clogging the end of the drain tube (like an insect building a nest).

The wet carpet could be caused by the cabin airfilter housing not being properly re-fitted after replacement of the cabin airfilter. This is a common problem with E9x's. If the tech incorrectly reassembles the filter housing, it cannot seal properly and will allow water to drop into the heater box (where the blower motor is).

If the fuse in the circuit is good then as you surmised, the problem is either the blower motor or the resistor pack that controls the blower speed. On older BMW models, when the resistor pack failed, the blower would still operate on the highest blower speed (where the is no resistor in the circuit to control the blower speed). The test for the older models was to put the blower speed on the highest setting and see of the blower worked. I'm not sure if this is a valid test for the E9x system.

Usually when the blower motor is damaged by water (the top bearing gets rusted) it will make noise long before it actually fails. If it just stopped one day out of the blue, then it's probably the resistor pack. The replacement for the blower and resistor pack is quite easy. There is a DIY for it in the DIY section. Considering BMW will charge you $100 diagnose the problem, then want to repair it for you, if you want to save money, try the resistor first. It will take you 10 minutes to replace. The wiring harness plugs into it, and it screws into the blower motor housing with 2 torx screws. If it is not the resistor, then the blower is probably at fault, which is easily replaced, but a bit more involved than just replacing the resistor pack. The blower will probably fail at some point anyway because it is prone to allow condensation eventually rust the top bearing of the motor shaft. The point is if you replace both parts and do the work yourself, it will still be cheaper than the dealer and you will have both new parts in the car with the confidence neither will fail anytime soon.

[klove83]

Im having the same problem. Just checked the fuses and they are good. Im not sure what exact fuses are for the blower motor but I checked the symbols on the sheet that looked like they would go along with the heating/cooling system.

A couple weeks ago I could hear the blower kinda struggling/ getting stuck sounding and now it wont work at all.

What part did you order and from which vender? Is there a diy for replacing this?

[ENINTY]

RealOEM.com is the best place to find the blower P/N. The DIY is in the DIY section.

[m@rco]

I had a similar problem. Brought it to the dealer and all they did was clean out the motor with some high pressure air... The motor looked "dirty" and smelled a bit "burned", is what they said. It could work another 4 weeks or another 4 years... Who knows. I decided not to fix it and see how long this will last...