[feuer]

Originally Posted by SCS55

All throw my pitch for you for Liqui Moly 5W40. Switched from Castrol 0W40 Euroblend to Liqui Moly Molygen about a year ago on 3 engines. I've be running that spec in my N55, S55, and e90 with the N52. All engines are on 5000 mile oil change intervals and every Blackstone oil report on all three come back with great numbers and positive comments such as the latest on my daughters 328i with the N52.
I hope that helps.

You need to dig out my post regarding Blackstone oil report. Nothing against them. I’m sure all oil labs would have produced same report. Anyhow, I received the report today showing very healthy engine, and tomorrow the engine spun the bearings. Or was opposite. Engine spun the bearings today and tomorrow I receive oil report showing engine in good health. Just you can tell with these things when something will give out.

[SCS55]

Originally Posted by feuer

You need to dig out my post regarding Blackstone oil report. Nothing against them. I'm sure all oil labs would have produced same report. Anyhow, I received the report today showing very healthy engine, and tomorrow the engine spun the bearings. Or was opposite. Engine spun the bearings today and tomorrow I receive oil report showing engine in good health. Just you can tell with these things when something will give out.

Agreed. This N55 bearing threat is turning my oil pan gasket job into something I'm handing over to an Indy.

[Pladi]

Originally Posted by feuer

You need to dig out my post regarding Blackstone oil report. Nothing against them. I’m sure all oil labs would have produced same report. Anyhow, I received the report today showing very healthy engine, and tomorrow the engine spun the bearings. Or was opposite. Engine spun the bearings today and tomorrow I receive oil report showing engine in good health. Just you can tell with these things when something will give out.

Not to mention what does synthetic oil brands have to do with spun bearings.. all synthetic oils are going to be more than enough to protect. Its going to take a catastrophic event to cause a catastrophic engine failure.. a diference in oil brands is not a catastrophic event lol

[feuer]

Originally Posted by Pladi

Not to mention what does synthetic oil brands have to do with spun bearings.. all synthetic oils are going to be more than enough to protect. Its going to take a catastrophic event to cause a catastrophic engine failure.. a diference in oil brands is not a catastrophic event lol

Yes, I agree, the oil isn’t a reason these engines experience rod bearings failures.

[tyson413]

Originally Posted by ghost135i

My mechanic is doing the work. We went with King bearings, not sure of the bolts. He's built several big power forged N55s, N54s, and S55s that are running around happily at 700+ to the wheels with no issues.

Billy Mason at BMB Autowerks in Northern NJ

Originally Posted by ghost135i

My mechanic is doing the work. We went with King bearings, not sure of the bolts. He's built several big power forged N55s, N54s, and S55s that are running around happily at 700+ to the wheels with no issues.

Billy Mason at BMB Autowerks in Northern NJ

Hey there. I'm planning to change my bearings on my 2012 135i. Can you please tell me which ones did you get for your car(maybe a part number or a link)? And how do you like it do far.
Thanks in advance.

[ghost135i]

Originally Posted by tyson413

Hey there. I'm planning to change my bearings on my 2012 135i. Can you please tell me which ones did you get for your car(maybe a part number or a link)? And how do you like it do far.
Thanks in advance.

I can't comment on part numbers since I'm unsure and I was not the one to source them. I'd imagine they are just King Bearing that meet factory N55 spec. Looks like BigBoost is a vendor for N55 king bearings, and I'm sure they'd be able to help if you reached out to them before purchasing.

Overall experience so far I can comment on. For good measure I allowed a 100 mile break in period, and have driven about 600 VERY HARD miles on them after that, which included a 6 hour dyno session with 20+ hits at over 500whp. So far so good, no signs of any issues from them which is to be expected from a high quality bearing. However, I haven't taken a look at the oil yet which will tell the real story.

[tyson413]

Originally Posted by ghost135i

I can't comment on part numbers since I'm unsure and I was not the one to source them. I'd imagine they are just King Bearing that meet factory N55 spec. Looks like BigBoost is a vendor for N55 king bearings, and I'm sure they'd be able to help if you reached out to them before purchasing.

Overall experience so far I can comment on. For good measure I allowed a 100 mile break in period, and have driven about 600 VERY HARD miles on them after that, which included a 6 hour dyno session with 20+ hits at over 500whp. So far so good, no signs of any issues from them which is to be expected from a high quality bearing. However, I haven't taken a look at the oil yet which will tell the real story.

Thanks a lot man

[Glene]

I wouldn't replace the rod bearings at 75K miles unless you are in there replacing the oil pan gasket. My N55 with 90K miles had a spun bearing. I polished the rod journal, replaced with new bearing, but the rod knock exists due to the rod journal is out of round. Still debating whether I should replace the crankshaft or replace the engine.

1) should I have to resurface the block and head or just clean them up? last time I replaced the head gasket in my Honda Pilot, I did not machine the surfaces, and the engine still runs as new and no issue since.

[feuer]

Originally Posted by Glene

I wouldn't replace the rod bearings at 75K miles unless you are in there replacing the oil pan gasket. My N55 with 90K miles had a spun bearing. I polished the rod journal, replaced with new bearing, but the rod knock exists due to the rod journal is out of round. Still debating whether I should replace the crankshaft or replace the engine.

1) should I have to resurface the block and head or just clean them up? last time I replaced the head gasket in my Honda Pilot, I did not machine the surfaces, and the engine still runs as new and no issue since.

It’s usually the big end on the rod not the crank that get out of round if was driven or revved with rod know. Even with used engine you are looking to do similar work unless you aren’t keeping the vehicle. So if you keeping them rebuild your existing engine.

[Pladi]

Originally Posted by feuer

It’s usually the big end on the rod not the crank that get out of round if was driven or revved with rod know. Even with used engine you are looking to do similar work unless you aren’t keeping the vehicle. So if you keeping them rebuild your existing engine.

I saw that BMW changed their "Hydraulic Valve" ( Oil pressure control valve) from older N55 models.

We see alot of 2011 models in here and looks like those models had a very short run oil pressure valve installed.

From real oem :


11417622768

Hydraulic valve

Supersedes:
11417596899(05/01/2010 — 08/23/2011), nonexchangeable retrospectively 11417584989(09/01/2009 — )

[Ozzie335i]

Originally Posted by Glene

I wouldn't replace the rod bearings at 75K miles unless you are in there replacing the oil pan gasket. My N55 with 90K miles had a spun bearing.

Glene, in two sentences you gave the very reason why I, for one, changed the rod bearings proactively at 65 K miles. Mind you, my ride is a Pure 2, port injection car that rips, and I want it to do so for several years to come.

[Glene]

Originally Posted by Ozzie335i

Glene, in two sentences you gave the very reason why I, for one, changed the rod bearings proactively at 65 K miles. Mind you, my ride is a Pure 2, port injection car that rips, and I want it to do so for several years to come.

spun rod bearing is unlikely due to bearing wear, but due to oil starvation. Replacing rod bearings does not improve the oil flow, so you're back in the same boat.

[Ozzie335i]

Originally Posted by Glene

spun rod bearing is unlikely due to bearing wear, but due to oil starvation. Replacing rod bearings does not improve the oil flow, so you're back in the same boat.

So you'd prefer to wait until the inevitable happens before taking any proactive measures such as slightly increased rod bearing crank gap. That is entirely your call on how to deal with this costly ticking time bomb. At this point I feel all I could do is address a known symptom by changing a band aid, as the real cause of said oil starvation is nothing but conjecture.

[fatty335]

Originally Posted by Pladi

I saw that BMW changed their "Hydraulic Valve" ( Oil pressure control valve) from older N55 models.

We see alot of 2011 models in here and looks like those models had a very short run oil pressure valve installed.

From real oem :


11417622768

Hydraulic valve

Supersedes:
11417596899(05/01/2010 — 08/23/2011), nonexchangeable retrospectively 11417584989(09/01/2009 — )

Plad, you seem to suggest that BMW may have found an issue with the hydraulic valve that controls oil pressure early on and made a change...this is interesting. I pulled up a photo of the hydraulic valve:



It appears to be of very similar design and function as the VANOS solenoids for the n55, which have been known to "act up" or fail from time to time; these have also seen design and p/n revisions throughout their lifetime. Do you know if the "early n55" valve had any use in any other engines prior to n55? If not, this would be a very interesting find, indeed. Thanks for the post!

[Pladi]

Originally Posted by fatty335

Plad, you seem to suggest that BMW may have found an issue with the hydraulic valve that controls oil pressure early on and made a change...this is interesting. I pulled up a photo of the hydraulic valve:



It appears to be of very similar design and function as the VANOS solenoids for the n55, which have been known to "act up" or fail from time to time; these have also seen design and p/n revisions throughout their lifetime. Do you know if the "early n55" valve had any use in any other engines prior to n55? If not, this would be a very interesting find, indeed. Thanks for the post!

Yes thats exactly what i am theorizing and the reason why i brought it up is ; if anyone is going to go ahead and go through the trouble of replacing rod bearings as preventative maintenance i would 'update' this "hydraulic valve" (proportional solenoid). This is what i would do personally. IT just potentially gives you a better part. Not always is a part change for technical reasons and sometimes its just vendor related i understand that but we will never know why exactly they made the change. We never get such details.

As for your question no unfortunately i have not looked at this that deep.

[TheGoodTheBadTheUgly]

fatty335 Pladi

I was looking at the Hydraulic valve just a tiny bit more in detail and here is the timeline.

The first model is 11417584989 used since 09/01/2009. This was used initially for (and I guess updated with time by the newer ones):
1' E88   (09/2009 — 10/2013)
1' E82   (09/2009 — 10/2013)
3' E90 LCI   (09/2009 — 12/2011)
3' E91 LCI   (09/2009 — 05/2012)
3' E92 LCI   (11/2008 — 06/2013)
3' E93 LCI   (11/2008 — 10/2013)
5' F07 GT   (09/2008 — 06/2013)
5' F10   (01/2009 — 06/2013)
5' F11   (02/2009 — 06/2013)
X5 E70 LCI   (04/2009 — 06/2013)
X6 E71   (07/2009 — 06/2014)

The prior model got quickly replaced by 11417596899, which is non-exchangeable retrospectively, with another very short use from 05/01/2010 to 08/23/2011.

The part is replaced by 11417622768, which began to be used from 03/01/2011 and doesn't have an ending date which probably means it served throughout the remaining of the N55s.

I checked the listed dates for each model and it seems that it's only used in N55s.

[zim-zim]

Originally Posted by Pladi

I saw that BMW changed their "Hydraulic Valve" ( Oil pressure control valve) from older N55 models.

We see alot of 2011 models in here and looks like those models had a very short run oil pressure valve installed.

From real oem :


11417622768

Hydraulic valve

Supersedes:
11417596899(05/01/2010 — 08/23/2011), nonexchangeable retrospectively 11417584989(09/01/2009 — )

I’ve seen this theory several times on non-English forums. Those guys never provided any proof, just a generic recommendation to update the valve if you had the first version; or at least to clean it (not sure if that helps). I also heard that 11417584989 is replaceable with the later variation. The wiring harness has to be replaced as well (sorry don’t have the PN).

[Pladi]

Originally Posted by zim-zim

I’ve seen this theory several times on non-English forums. Those guys never provided any proof, just a generic recommendation to update the valve if you had the first version; or at least to clean it (not sure if that helps). I also heard that 11417584989 is replaceable with the later variation. The wiring harness has to be replaced as well (sorry don’t have the PN).

Can you point us to these forums because when i searched google for these part numbers I didnt see any threads anywhere related to these parts regardless of what language.

[zim-zim]

Originally Posted by Pladi

Can you point us to these forums because when i searched google for these part numbers I didnt see any threads anywhere related to these parts regardless of what language.

Here you go: https://www.drive2.ru/l/548103248985194868/

Looks like the PN is 12517592529

[fatty335]

Originally Posted by zim-zim

Here you go: https://www.drive2.ru/l/548103248985194868/

Looks like the PN is 12517592529

I snapped a pic of my valve:



Based on the post zim-zim shared, and based on the style of connector and black plastic casing on mine, I have the later valve. I'm a 2011 335i with a build date of 08/11.

[zim-zim]

BTW the article I posted seems to suggest that there’s 60% guarantee that a rod bearing will spin by 100k (kilometers), if the valve is not replaced or disconnected (!). Like with time, the valve wears and its reaction time worsens (no proof just an opinion). I own a 2012 x3 3.5 and a 2013 335i. Both have same looking valves with black casing. The x3 recently hit 95k. I replaced the valve on it for peace of mind.

[Pladi]

Originally Posted by zim-zim

BTW the article I posted seems to suggest that there’s 60% guarantee that a rod bearing will spin by 100k (kilometers), if the valve is not replaced or disconnected (!). Like with time, the valve wears and its reaction time worsens (no proof just an opinion). I own a 2012 x3 3.5 and a 2013 335i. Both have same looking valves with black casing. The x3 recently hit 95k. I replaced the valve on it for peace of mind.

Even before i decided to say anything about this valve and we have discussed this possibility before in this forum many times before, i struggle to understand how a 'Normally Open' valve that is in default poaitiin pressed open by a spring can fail. It my be possible that it gets stuck when it has already been actuated. Hard to say.

I guess it would be beneficial to remove and bench test this valve on motors that have seized.

You might not even have to apply and signal since if the theory is correct when you pull them they should be stuck engaged.