[BendOR335D]

Hi guys,

I bought my 2010 335D from my father in Michigan earlier this summer. Car had a host of codes and issues that I was able to fix pretty easily before driving it back to Oregon in the beginning of September. Before driving the 2500 miles I was able to fix the following issues:

1. Code 4530 (Charging Pressure Control, high pressure stage, control deviation: charging pressure too low/ positive control deviation). Found a vacuum line that had melted and created a leak. Patched the vac line and I got power back.

2. DDE Relay- Car died on me while on the freeway, pulled the code and was able to limp the car to the closest autoparts store. Got lucky and a nearby store had the relay that I needed. Replaced the DDE relay and the car was back to starting no problem and made the rest of the trip across the country without incident.

After arriving back to Oregon the car had been great. I think I drove approximately an additional 500-600 miles since making it to Oregon with zero issues.

Last night I went to a buddies place about 5 or so miles from my house. On the drive over I noticed that the car was making more black sooty smoke than it usually does (only really notice it usually when I punch the gas hard and stay on it, then no more soot when driving normally) but still had pretty much normal power (maybe a slight bit more lag). After eating dinner (2-2.5hrs) I got back into the car and she started normally. As I turned off of their street on to the main road I put my foot down to accelerate and it felt like I had ALMOST NO POWER.

As soon as I realized that I had almost no power, check engine light comes on and the car enters limp mode. I was able to take side streets back to my house but anytime I tried to get on the gas the car would PUKE out insane amounts of black smoke and had ZERO POWER.

This morning I got out Bimmer Geek ProTool and ran the codes, I got the following:

1. 43E2 - Throttle Valve Actuator activation.

2. 4226 Oxygen Sensor (bank 1)

3. 4865 Air system, air to EGR mass flower plausibility (This one is confusing because the EGR has been deleted on this car for over 100k miles and I was under the impression that the tune would make it so these type of faults would not show up, am I wrong about this assumption?

4. 3F25 Charge air tube monitor.

5. 4674 Fuel injection quantity monitor.

6. 4530 (rearing it's ugly head again, checked for melted or leaking vac lines but cant find any upon first inspection.


I am kind of leaning towards a faulty MAF sensor combined with a bad O2 sensor. The next test I will be preforming tonight is to check the functionality of the vacuum actuators with a hand held vac pump/gauge.

With this many miles on the vehicle and limited diagnostic software experience I am kind of at a loss at the moment. If anyone has any advice on how to utilize BimmerGeek ProTool to better effect please let me know. I am hesitant to buy a new MAF and o2 sensor before I have more solid information.

Thanks yall,
Kieran

[BendOR335D]

Update: Started doing vacuum testing for code 4530 tonight. Located a bad vacuum actuator towards that back firewall that is not able to hold vac!! Going to hold off on MAF and O2 sensor until I install a new actuator. Hope it works out..

[335dlci]

Throttle stands out to me...

[BendOR335D]

I think I found my smoking gun. Red boost charge pipe has come off completely from one end, I think this would account for at least some of the faults. I need to look further into what I need to disassemble to access that charge pipe so I can remove it, clean it and see what it's condition is.

[BendOR335D]

It was the red boost hose from the turbo to the intercooler that had failed. Someone (or over time and 90k miles) had missed the T-25 Torx screw that holds in the intercooler on the turbo side. The intercooler was hanging off the red boost hose and it eventually just couldnt hold on anymore.

I removed the intercooler and the offending hose. Cleaned everything down with brake cleaner, re-installed the whole package (It ended up being an upgraded model from AA Rodriguez) making sure to get another T-25 screw so that both sides of the intercooler are strong and secured to the car. Decided to do an oil change that I needed to do while I had the bottom cover off and had the car on jack stands. Took her for a test drive and the car is back to running 100%. I am not a mechanic (this was my first time ever really wrenching on something.) Ended up taking me about 6 hours to finish the whole process with two trips to the auto parts store. Feeling really stoked and hope that this might help someone down the line.

EDIT: Just wanted to also touch on the subject that every code other than 4530 is always present with this vehicle because of mods and tuning. Will be sending back the MAF when it arrives later this week as I will not be needing it.

[Mik325tds]

You might want to check your Anti-shudder-valve which is incorrectly named as "throttle valve" in your diagnostic tool. If that one doesn't fully open when the engine is running and you punch it, the boost hose might just pop off because the air has no where to go.
It is very easy to test - just take the upper boost hose off and look at the plate. It should be fully open when the engine is running and only close during shut-down of the engine.

[ChiDiddy]

Thank u for keeping us updated, I’m sure ppl who face these same issues eventually and refer to ur post for a checklist of things to look out for!

[BendOR335D]

Originally Posted by Mik325tds

You might want to check your Anti-shudder-valve which is incorrectly named as "throttle valve" in your diagnostic tool. If that one doesn't fully open when the engine is running and you punch it, the boost hose might just pop off because the air has no where to go.
It is very easy to test - just take the upper boost hose off and look at the plate. It should be fully open when the engine is running and only close during shut-down of the engine.

That makes sense for sure. I will check this today.

I do think that anti-shudder valve has been coded open (also the electrical connection to the shudder-valve is and has been unplugged for about 50k miles) I was talking with my dad about this the other day and he said that someone back in MI had been able to code it to stay open all the time thus eliminating his issue with it. The other reason I assume it has been coded out is because I do not get any dash warnings or CEL's for it (or any of the other DTC's besides the 4530 when I had a broken vac line and also when the hose from turbo to IC popped off.

[BB_cuda]

I hope your ASV isn’t coded open all the time as it is a fail safe for a run away engine. Perhaps the loose connector you see if for the nearby EGR. Do you have a faux EGR ( we call this a racepipe)?

[335dlci]

I love how bmw calls its a throttle though but random people say otherwise..

[Mik325tds]

Originally Posted by 335dlci

I love how bmw calls its a throttle though but random people say otherwise..

I think it is a translation and possibly cultural issue. The word "Drosselklappe" in German has a meaning of choking the air intake which is completely correct usage also for the Anti-shudder function. In English the word throttle valve is mostly associated with the old carburetor terminology where the power output of an engine is controlled with the throttle valve. For diesel engines that is incorrect as the power output is purely controlled with injection quantity.

[PerfectAce]

Not to beat a dead horse, but there are reasons other than smooth shutdown and over-rev prevention that modern diesels need to have a method of modulating air flow into the engine and are thus equipped with a throttle. And yes, ours are equipped with a throttle, which does exactly what it's designed to do -- throttle air flow. It just happens to be used for a purpose that is different than what it's used for on gasoline engines.

Quoting BMW literature directly: "The throttle valve is required for regenerating the diesel particulate filter in order to increase the exhaust temperature by intervening in the air-fuel mixture."

[BendOR335D]

Originally Posted by BB_cuda

I hope your ASV isn’t coded open all the time as it is a fail safe for a run away engine. Perhaps the loose connector you see if for the nearby EGR. Do you have a faux EGR ( we call this a racepipe)?

Yea I need to take off the upper boost pipe to see how the ASV acts when I turn the vehicle off. Yes, EGR is deleted and have racepipe installed and these are not the connector I am referring to (I can see the two connectors for the EGR in the front of the engine). The one that plugs into the ASV is and has been unplugged for probably 50k miles or more at this point. My dad said that the only time the car ever died on him while running he unplugged the the ASV connector and it got him back on the road. Although now that I think about it, it could have been the DDE relay going out on him (which I know will kill the engine while driving as I had it happen to me).