[Asonchadwick]

Diesels ops product description seems a little wonky, brand new bosch pump made with genuine Bosch parts??? Um...ok

[OmahaDZL]

Originally Posted by Got-Torque

Codes were 4560, 4570, 4610.

Fuel filters only have 6k on them (have a 2 micron downstream of the factory one). Can ran great for a few months. Started having issues on full throttle runs, going into reduced power mode. Eventually it started occurring under less and less throttle amounts. Can't go 1/2 throttle for over a second or it will occur now.

I plan to go hybrids and a larger tune eventually so I figured that replacing the pump is money well spent.

My android phone I used for gauges and logging died (battery swelled up) and I haven't replaced it yet so I haven't been able to log anything. Not sure if my Schwaben scan tool will do that or not?

Got a pump coming from Whitbread and a tool in the mail, should get it put on this weekend. I'm also interested to see how my intake runners look after almost 10k miles of meth injection (hoping they are cleaned up)...

I just found a thread from a couple years ago....his issue was the lpfp...just kinda dying slowly...

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1033469

If you are going stage 3/4 anyway, just as well do the hpfp now....but Im not sure its going to solve your issue... but it will def remove the possibility and make diagnosis easier.

[335dsleeper]

Good find, Omaha.

Got-Torque, might want to swap the lpfp too, just to be safe. If it's on its way out, it might hurt the R90 hpfp.

Originally Posted by OmahaDZL

I just found a thread from a couple years ago....his issue was the lpfp...just kinda dying slowly...

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1033469

If you are going stage 3/4 anyway, just as well do the hpfp now....but Im not sure its going to solve your issue... but it will def remove the possibility and make diagnosis easier.

[Got-Torque]

thanks for the info. I just got the pump installed, had to loosen up the alternator bracket as it was not letting the pump slide all the way into the housing. I have a few things to button up tomorrow and then I'll find out if it fixed it or not.

[335dsleeper]

Any info? Has it fixed your rail issue?

I'm contiplating installing mine this afternoon... I need to pull the intake to swap a glow plug so, mine as well do it while the mani and cowl is off.

Originally Posted by Got-Torque

thanks for the info. I just got the pump installed, had to loosen up the alternator bracket as it was not letting the pump slide all the way into the housing. I have a few things to button up tomorrow and then I'll find out if it fixed it or not.

[Got-Torque]

No update yet, took the family shopping and won't get back to it until later tonight (hopefully).

[Got-Torque]

Used pump came with a cracked fuel metering valve (fuel control actuator) electrical connector that was epoxied back on (wtf?). I tried to make it work but when I slowly attached the wiring to it, it broke off. So I had to swap my existing one onto the used pump (was hoping to rule it out as well by the change). Got it all buttoned back up and just took it for a drive. After 5 easy miles, first hard acceleration popped the same codes back up and put it in limp mode.

4560 & 4570.

So what's next in determining where the problem might be? Can I log demanded rail pressure vs actual rail pressure in the Torque Pro app? (sorry I've only used it for gauges so far). Or will that just show the obvious (that they don't match and hence the codes)?

[ninja_zx11]

Originally Posted by Got-Torque

Can I log demanded rail pressure vs actual rail pressure in the Torque Pro app? (sorry I've only used it for gauges so far). Or will that just show the obvious (that they don't match and hence the codes)?

You can use deep OBD to log specified vs actual!!
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1419824

[OmahaDZL]

Originally Posted by Got-Torque

Used pump came with a cracked fuel metering valve (fuel control actuator) electrical connector that was epoxied back on (wtf?). I tried to make it work but when I slowly attached the wiring to it, it broke off. So I had to swap my existing one onto the used pump (was hoping to rule it out as well by the change). Got it all buttoned back up and just took it for a drive. After 5 easy miles, first hard acceleration popped the same codes back up and put it in limp mode.

4560 & 4570.

So what's next in determining where the problem might be? Can I log demanded rail pressure vs actual rail pressure in the Torque Pro app? (sorry I've only used it for gauges so far). Or will that just show the obvious (that they don't match and hence the codes)?

Many of the apps can do rail pressure delta, but I can guarantee its going to show you exactly what you expect....a large delta....thus the codes (as you surmise)..

You were very correct in worrying about that metering valve, as stated in previous posts, that could be the cause of issues. Get in touch with your seller and get another one....and hope.. However, my guess is that isnt going to fix it....and the lpfp might have to be next....Im sure there is some sort of test that you could to test flow rate or pressure, but it might be more cost effective just to change it...

When you get a code....is the engine dying or is it still pulling hard? that MAY indicated whether its a false positive (ie a sensor) or the rail actually being short on fuel... Personally, my car was actually dying when I went stage 3.......that got solved with my R90...

[Got-Torque]

Typically still pulling hard then it goes into reduced power mode. However, it did occur once with my son driving and it died.

Do these cars have a low pressure pump pressure sensor that could be logged? Possibly show that it is dropping pressure under a load and that the low pressure pump is not keeping up?

[robnitro]

Yes there is a low pressure pump sensor that I saw in ista when doing the fuel filter bleeding procedure. I'm not keen on test-o but ista-d can show you it.

[Yozh]

Can you confirm on the sensor. I have not seen any references before.

[335dsleeper]

Thanks again for posting your DIY. I swapped my hpfp tonight and your diy made it easier.

Originally Posted by OmahaDZL

UPDATE: After actually doing the replacement...I have updated the instructions


Has anyone seen a DIY on the HPFP change? Ive been looking and the best I can come up with on here and on youtube is Freelander pump change...

Anyone who has done this, it would be appreciated to post the steps. Heres my guess based on what I have seen..

Here are the special tools needed:
An M57 pump removal tool which consists of a centering ring, a threaded removal tool and a jack bolt
A 17mm hex
a 6 inch piece of 3/8 fuel resistant hose
a few hose clamps

1. Remove intake manifold.
2. Remove Radiator fan for clearance....I removed the serpentine belt too, because the tensioner was in the way a bit..
3. lock engine from rotating. (Not required but will make it easier when putting nut back on)
4 Remove 17mm hex bit cap from front of engine (there are 2 of them, open the one on the right)
5. Screw in ring portion of the special removal tool....finger tight
6. ENTIRELY remove 21mm nut inside hole that connects to pump shaft, even though instructions say to "slacken". When you remove this nut it will reveal threads in the sprocket.
7. Loosen the jack bolt on the other part of the special tool, put it in the hole and thread it onto sprocket (my kit came with 2 of them...one had threads on inside, one had threads on the outside...use the one with threads on outside, pictured in post #11 below) finger tight at first...then a little tighter with wrench.
8. screw in jack bolt finger tight at first, then slightly tighten to pretension pump.
9. Remove 3 nuts from back of pump (and fuel lines)
10. Crank on jack bolt in special removal tool to push out fuel pump, should pop right out.
11. Once Pump is released, fully back out the jack bolt ONLY and put on your bench, you wont need it again. LEAVE other parts in place, they are now holding your chain and sprocket in place.
12. Getting the pump out of the spot is a bit of a trick. I unclipped and unhooked the main vacuum line from the vacuum pump to give me a little more space and flexibility.
13. Clean surface of pump and engine, replace the metal gasket with proper orientation as seen in shop manual in link below.
14. Put the nuts back on in the back....tighten up, careful to keep pump going into hole straight...shouldnt be a problem.
15. Remove special tool with wrench (as your pump spindle will be now holding the sprocket)
16. Replace nut onto end of pump....tighten to 36 lb/ft (I gave it a little more). (this is where you may need to lock engine, I just put a socket on one of my harmonic balancer bolts)
17. Remove centering ring part of special tool and recap.
18. Hook up all your lines. I had one line that didnt hook up correctly. It was a white hard plastic line with molded ends....the end that hooks up to the pump had a banjo connection. The new pump doesnt use the banjo connection and puts the port in a diff location with a normal nipple. I decided to cut the line off and replace it with a piece of rubber hose.. We are talking maybe 6 inches at the most.
19. put everything back!
20. Now I have heard multiple ways to prime the pump....one is to cycle the lift pump by pressing the start button with foot off brake and waiting....multiple times..... I may try Rheingold to prime it.... UPDATE: I didnt see this post in time... but here is a way I wanted to do it (the way I did it was just cycling the ignition and letting the lift pump continue to fill it up ....be sure to have it on a charger or jumper cables though) http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...2#post21754742


Update, Andrew from fixmyvw recorded a handy video since he had an engine out....

[pheno]

I believe this parameter in TestO will give the "pre-supply fuel pressure". Not sure about what is the correct term here. In E39 you could see the fuel line under seat.

If you enter 'vorförder' into search box you'll see several more parameters like pre-supply with unit of litres/hour and RPM of pre-supply pump

[OmahaDZL]

Originally Posted by pheno

I believe this parameter in TestO will give the "pre-supply fuel pressure". Not sure about what is the correct term here. In E39 you could see the fuel line under seat.

If you enter 'vorförder' into search box you'll see several more parameters like pre-supply with unit of litres/hour and RPM of pre-supply pump

THANKS pheno!

Gosh it would be nice to know some German ....but Im having enough trouble learning Spanish....

[pheno]

Yeah :-)well for the next release there will be more english translations. I'll add this one too.

For that parameter my N47 with DDE 7.1 gave results of 3900 hPa, which is about 3.9bar (56 PSI)

[Got-Torque]

little update:

After getting side tracked with a few other vehicle purchases, I was able to get back to working on the car. Installed a new LPFP as well as some other parts (front wheel bearings, water pump, thermostat, and one of Iaknown's intakes). Took it for a 150 mile test drive and thought all was well. Had the wife with me so I didn't get on it very hard. However today on the way to work I pushed it a little bit and it popped the same reduced engine output message. Codes were as follows:

3EED power management closed circuit protection
4AD5 DDE zero quantity adaptation injector cylinder 1
4560 DDE rail pressure plausibility delivery controlled

ideas?

[OmahaDZL]

Originally Posted by Got-Torque

little update:

After getting side tracked with a few other vehicle purchases, I was able to get back to working on the car. Installed a new LPFP as well as some other parts (front wheel bearings, water pump, thermostat, and one of Iaknown's intakes). Took it for a 150 mile test drive and thought all was well. Had the wife with me so I didn't get on it very hard. However today on the way to work I pushed it a little bit and it popped the same reduced engine output message. Codes were as follows:

3EED power management closed circuit protection
4AD5 DDE zero quantity adaptation injector cylinder 1
4560 DDE rail pressure plausibility delivery controlled

ideas?

Damn, that sucks...well...it still could be that pressure sensor...I mean...its not saying low or high..its saying plausibility, which means one of two things...either its reading an impossible number (based on what your tune says is plausible, regardless of whats requested).... OR... your tune didnt move those plausibility numbers up when they turned up the requested pressure. My bet is the former over the latter.

[Got-Torque]

I figured as much, I ordered one a few days ago, hopefully it shows up before turkey day so I can try it out.

[Got-Torque]

New rail pressure sensor didn’t change anything, still going into limp mode with rail pressure plausibility codes...

Reset adaptions and see if it goes away? Tune related?

[OmahaDZL]

Originally Posted by Got-Torque

New rail pressure sensor didn’t change anything, still going into limp mode with rail pressure plausibility codes...

Reset adaptions and see if it goes away? Tune related?

DAMN it.. maybe....but you should be logging this to find out what your rail pressure is to see what the plausibility level is..

[Yozh]

Yes, log desired vs actual. Also, log all the voltage values of rail pressure, flow control valve and pressure regulator.