[Jaytabz21]

Hello all,

Apologies if I am not posting in the correct section. I am new to the forums.

2011 BMW 323i

A couple of days ago, my car was running fine after a 2 hour commute, I decided to stop and fill up the tank. After putting in gas, I go to turn the car on, and there was no power at all. I was able to check connections to battery and realized the positive cable was loose. The battery had been sliding in the back because the metal bracket was not put in place to prevent shifting of the battery. This led to the loose battery cable. Made sure the connections were good and made sure to secure the battery to prevent it from moving.

Fast forward to today, the car was running fine this morning then all of a sudden mid afternoon, I had the same issues with the battery. The car had no power again. It seems the battery had shifted again (the metal bracket was not tightened all the way) and caused the loose connection. Made sure everything was tight and secured again, go to turn the car on and everything was working fine. I left the car parked for a couple of hours.

Now, I go to turn the car on and as I am driving, I realized my turn signals are not working, power windows not working, and headlights not showing on the dash. I thought it might be an issue with the battery, so I decided to disconnect the battery and let it sit for awhile. As I was removing the negative terminal, there was a huge spark (not like the kind when you’re jump starting a car, it was much bigger than that). After deeming it was safe to continue with the battery, I removed the positive terminal next, then I let it sit for a couple mins, then reconnected the battery.


Now I have no power at all. I tried to jump it using a booster pack and got nothing. Anyone have any ideas what it might be? I did some research and believe it might be the FRM module but I don’t know..

Could the constant battery being disconnected and connected again, cause this issue? It is a new battery (1 month old), I had programmed it using BimmerLink. Should I have coded the battery again after it being disconnected?

Any input would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks

[Efthreeoh]

Look at the Battery Safety Terminal see if it is blown. The battery may also be damaged. Have you tested it? Lastly, check the battery (+) terminal passing through the wheel well.

[Jaytabz21]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

Look at the Battery Safety Terminal see if it is blown. The battery may also be damaged. Have you tested it? Lastly, check the battery (+) terminal passing through the wheel well.

Took a look at the battery safety terminal. How would you tell if it’s blown. The part that connects to the positive terminal does look a little bent. I checked the battery, there is voltage reading 12.98 volts.

I’ll have to check the battery (+) terminal that passes through the wheel well. What should I be looking for when checking this?

Also, thank you for replying to my concern.

[Jaytabz21]

- Checked the positive cable going into the wheel well. No signs of a bad wire.

- removed the IBS to see if this would temporarily resolve the issue, no luck.

- removed the battery safety terminal on the positive lead and checked. Noticed the prongs that connect the safety terminal and the blue connection had some slightly burnt ends (wiped off and put back together) still no power.

- removed the glove compartment to gain access to the fuse box and junction box. Removed the junction box and fuse box to inspect the B+ cable in the back. No signs of a faulty cable. I believe the cable already completed the recall (it had the black heat shrink wrap around the cable). Checked the cable with my multimeter and was showing power. Put back together.

- checked fuses with a fuse light, no fuses showed any light. Checked fuses with my multimeter for continuity, all fuses were fine.

- checked ground cable under driver right side. Cable looked good still.

I don’t really know what else to check or do. I am planning on replacing the the battery safety terminal, if that does not do anything then I will replace the junction box.

If anyone else has inputs, please let me know. It would be greatly appreciated.

[Jaytabz21]

Found out what the issue was that was preventing the car from getting any power. It was the battery safety terminal. Found a used one, replaced it and now the car starts.

The only issue I have now is that the signals, hazards, power windows, and fog lights do not work. Also, the headlights are always on. I checked fuses and noticed 4 fuses are not getting any current (checked with a fuse light). Tried to switch around a good fuse and still not getting any light. Seems the fuse box, or the FRM might need to be replaced.

I’ll keep this thread updated once fully resolved.

Thanks

[Series3]

Originally Posted by Jaytabz21

Found out what the issue was that was preventing the car from getting any power. It was the battery safety terminal. Found a used one, replaced it and now the car starts.

The only issue I have now is that the signals, hazards, power windows, and fog lights do not work. Also, the headlights are always on. I checked fuses and noticed 4 fuses are not getting any current (checked with a fuse light). Tried to switch around a good fuse and still not getting any light. Seems the fuse box, or the FRM might need to be replaced.

I’ll keep this thread updated once fully resolved.

Thanks

I've heard indeed the FRM on the E90 are "fragile". Let us know!