Jack Point Pad

N52UNED · 09-22-2018, 12:28 AM

Just like the title states ... I'm looking to jack up my e90 to install an AA Gen 2 muffler (just jacking rear driver's side).

With that, has anyone used a cut piece of 2x4 instead of a block style (BMW/Mini) jack pad adapter? I don't want to damage the jack pad.

I'd use a hockey puck, but unfortunately finding one in my town in FL is like finding a needle in a haystack.

EDIT ... this is an axel back job. Simple cut stock muffler ... clamp AA muffler and attach to hangers.

Installation link ...
http://images.activeautowerke.com/In...ID%20PIPE).pdf

.

IISevv · 09-22-2018, 12:48 AM

Jack it up from the rear subframe crossmember. It’s directly behind the rear diff. As for the jack point, if you’re worried about damaging anything, there’s a frame jack point almost directly inside of each rear wheel. To answer your question a 2x4 will work fine but I’d be wary of using something wet or otherwise compromised that could crush or split.

Biginboca · 09-22-2018, 04:35 AM

I agree jack from the rear crossmember or the bottom of the diff (making sure you aren’t on the cover) and then lower it onto jackstands placed under each rear jack point. (A pair of Jackstands are like $20 at harbor freight and you can use a saws all with a hack blade to trim them to fit perfectly inside the jacking points.)

You actually can’t use the rear jack point you want to use because there would be no way to put the car onto a jackstand then, your jack will block the jack point.

Please do not get under your car to swap your muffler with the car supported only by a jack. It sounds like that was your plan and this is a very bad idea. Using wood between jack and car is also not a good idea. Your life and safety is worth the $20 for a pair of jack stands.

https://www.harborfreight.com/3-ton-...nds-61196.html

Efthreeoh · 09-22-2018, 06:26 AM

I'll give some advice. First off, there are a lot of threads on how to properly raise the E90 chassis and set it on jack stands. You should search for them.

In short, the correct and most safe way to raise the E90 to work on it is to work on the car on a hard and level surface, such as a concrete floor and use four (4) jackstands. Use a floor jack and lift the car from the center-front and center-rear jacking points and set the car on four (4) jackstands, one each placed under the lifting blocks on the rocker panels. The proper procedure is leave the car in neutral with the parking brake off; this allows for the car to roll over the jack as the car is lifted. Most people don't understand the floor jack arm moves in an arc, which necessitates either the jack to roll forward (towards) under the car (that's why it has wheels) or the car to roll towards (over) the jack. This prevents the car from slipping off the jack cup.

The front jacking point is the one under the engine, denoted by the indented ring in the belly pan cover with the rectangle steel block in the center of it. The rear center jack point is the black cast-iron differential housing. The rear crossmemeber just behind the diff is okay to use (it's plenty strong enough), but using the diff gives about four (4) additional inches of height (the bottom of the diff is lower to the ground than the crossmember).

Jack the front up first and place it on the stands. The jack up the rear and place it on the stands. If you lift the rear first, the front is then far too low to get a jack under it.

The ideal jackstands are ones with flat tops (rubber coated is even better). If you don't have flat-top stands then placing a wood block between the stand and lifting block is the next best alternative. You don't need to precisely cut a 2x4 to fit inside the lifting block, the lifting block is designed to take the weight of the car on the walls of the block. If I used wood blocks, I'd just use 1/2" or 3/4" plywood squares. Plywood is cross-grained laminate wood, so it won't split along the wood grain if stressed like an old, dry 2x4 could.

Back to the four (4) stands approach... I emphasize using four (4) jackstands because if any of the wheels are on the ground, there is always a chance the car will roll off the stands. If all four wheels are off the ground, the car cannot roll off the stands. It's just simple logic. Also, if you only use two (2) stands, then most people leave the car in gear and with the parking brake on, which gets back to my point about the car or the jack needing to roll as the car is lifted. You should never work under a car that is not completely lifted and supported off the ground. With the E90, people improperly use a jack on the lifting blocks and tear the shit out of them, so the blocks being plastic and torn up, so they don't trust the blocks to hold the weight of the car. You can leave an E90 sitting on the lifting blocks for 10 years and they'd easily hold the weight and not deform. I use a 2-post lift to work on my car. The lifting blocks are purposefully designed for the foot of the lift's arm to sit under the block and raise car up. I've left my car on my lift for several weeks at a time with no damage to the lifting blocks. 3 of my blocks are original (12 years old).

My 2 cents. Good luck with your exhaust work. Have a helper, the stock exhaust is very heavy and ungainly to hold. If you have a transmission floor jack, suggest using it to lower the exhaust down and out from the car. The center balance point of the exhaust is a few inches rear of the center resonator.

Bimmer_Engineer · 09-22-2018, 08:59 AM

I’m using these with hockey pucks on top...they work great...I bought 4 hockey pucks off of eBay for $11 shipped as they are hard to come by in New Orleans as well...

https://www.etrailer.com/Camper-Jack...48-979004.html

IISevv · 09-22-2018, 09:05 AM

So since you’re only wanting to jack up one corner, I’m guessing you’re not planning on removing the whole exhaust. That’ll make cutting and welding your exhaust a lot more difficult. The proper way to do it would be to jack it up from each center jack point and place a jack stand under each corner jack point (or any solid piece of the frame).

N52UNED · 09-22-2018, 09:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by IISevv

So since you’re only wanting to jack up one corner, I’m guessing you’re not planning on removing the whole exhaust. That’ll make cutting and welding your exhaust a lot more difficult. The proper way to do it would be to jack it up from each center jack point and place a jack stand under each corner jack point (or any solid piece of the frame).

Yes, it's an axel back muffler. No welding. It clamps on. I just have to cut off the existing muffler.

N52UNED · 09-22-2018, 09:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

I'll give some advice. First off, there are a lot of threads on how to properly raise the E90 chassis and set it on jack stands. You should search for them.

... ...

My 2 cents. Good luck with your exhaust work. Have a helper, the stock exhaust is very heavy and ungainly to hold. If you have a transmission floor jack, suggest using it to lower the exhaust down and out from the car. The center balance point of the exhaust is a few inches rear of the center resonator.

Yes I have. But thanks for taking the time to write it up ... it's much appreciated!

It's a simple cut and clamp 1 person job.

Here's the installation guide ...

http://images.activeautowerke.com/In...ID%20PIPE).pdf

N52UNED · 09-22-2018, 09:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Biginboca

I agree jack from the rear crossmember or the bottom of the diff (making sure you aren’t on the cover) and then lower it onto jackstands placed under each rear jack point. (A pair of Jackstands are like $20 at harbor freight and you can use a saws all with a hack blade to trim them to fit perfectly inside the jacking points.)

You actually can’t use the rear jack point you want to use because there would be no way to put the car onto a jackstand then, your jack will block the jack point.

Please do not get under your car to swap your muffler with the car supported only by a jack. It sounds like that was your plan and this is a very bad idea. Using wood between jack and car is also not a good idea. Your life and safety is worth the $20 for a pair of jack stands.

https://www.harborfreight.com/3-ton-...nds-61196.html

Yes, I planned to use a jack stand (only one off muffler). I do have jackstands, but for $20 ... those are much better.

Efthreeoh · 09-22-2018, 10:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by N52UNED

Yes I have. But thanks for taking the time to write it up ... it's much appreciated!

It's a simple cut and clamp 1 person job.

Here's the installation guide ...

http://images.activeautowerke.com/In...ID%20PIPE).pdf

Hopefully you'll get a straight cut on the pipe. I'd bet a muffler shop would charge you $75 to do that work and do a better job. Getting a square cut on the pipe at that angle at that place on the car with the car barely off the ground will be difficult. If you plan on using a hacksaw, it'll be difficult.

Just a suggestion.

Biginboca · 09-22-2018, 10:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

Hopefully you'll get a straight cut on the pipe. I'd bet a muffler shop would charge you $75 to do that work and do a better job. Getting a square cut on the pipe at that angle at that place on the car with the car barely off the ground will be difficult. If you plan on using a hacksaw, it'll be difficult.

Just a suggestion.

It’s not hard to get a straight enough cut. Wrap a piece of masking tape once around the pipe and then cut along the edge of the tape.

With a cordless saws all it takes maybe 20 seconds. Very easy.

OP I have installed this same muffler on my car in my parking spot on 2 jack stands. It’s not hard at all, with the toughest part being getting the old exhaust out of the rear most hanger. Need a long prybar and lots of wrestling for that, and using some white Teflon grease to install the new muffler into the hanger is a definite help!

Efthreeoh · 09-22-2018, 02:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Biginboca

It’s not hard to get a straight enough cut. Wrap a piece of masking tape once around the pipe and then cut along the edge of the tape.

With a cordless saws all it takes maybe 20 seconds. Very easy.

OP I have installed this same muffler on my car in my parking spot on 2 jack stands. It’s not hard at all, with the toughest part being getting the old exhaust out of the rear most hanger. Need a long prybar and lots of wrestling for that, and using some white Teflon grease to install the new muffler into the hanger is a definite help!

The rear hanger bolts into the frame, just unbolt it. The front-left hanger unbolts as well. I just unbolt both when I remove the exhaust. Far easier than trying to remove the stuck-on isolators. There are special pliers for the task.

The Nightman · 09-22-2018, 03:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by N52UNED

Just like the title states ... I'm looking to jack up my e90 to install an AA Gen 2 muffler (just jacking rear driver's side).

With that, has anyone used a cut piece of 2x4 instead of a block style (BMW/Mini) jack pad adapter? I don't want to damage the jack pad.

I'd use a hockey puck, but unfortunately finding one in my town in FL is like finding a needle in a haystack.

EDIT ... this is an axel back job. Simple cut stock muffler ... clamp AA muffler and attach to hangers.

Installation link ...
http://images.activeautowerke.com/In...ID%20PIPE).pdf

.

I use jack stand adapters made of 1" square steel cut into short lengths. They fit inside the jack pads perfectly and protect them from being damaged.

Welcome to NBA Jam · 09-22-2018, 05:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Biginboca

It’s not hard to get a straight enough cut. Wrap a piece of masking tape once around the pipe and then cut along the edge of the tape.

With a cordless saws all it takes maybe 20 seconds. Very easy.

OP I have installed this same muffler on my car in my parking spot on 2 jack stands. It’s not hard at all, with the toughest part being getting the old exhaust out of the rear most hanger. Need a long prybar and lots of wrestling for that, and using some white Teflon grease to install the new muffler into the hanger is a definite help!

I used one of those dull exhaust cutters from AutoZone. Never again. It took all damn day.

N52UNED · 09-23-2018, 10:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by freedomfries

I use jack stand adapters made of 1" square steel cut into short lengths. They fit inside the jack pads perfectly and protect them from being damaged.

That's a great idea. I should be able to find some square steel tubing. Thanks!

N52UNED · 09-23-2018, 10:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

I'd bet a muffler shop would charge you $75 to do that work and do a better job.

Honestly, I might just do that. I'm about due for an oil change (shops around here only charge about $15 more than the parts anyway ... so its worth it to not have to bother).

I'll check to see how much they're charge. If it's about $75 ... its worth it to do it and avoid the headache and any stupid little issues from being my first time.

I'm contemplating having my secondaries deleted ... being in FL ... I'll see if they'll do that too. If so, most definitely.

09-22-2018, 12:28 AM	#1
N52UNED Captain 179 Rep 601 Posts Drives: '07 328i/330BPC Join Date: Mar 2017 Location: Sunshine State iTrader: (1)	Jack Point Pad - Can I use a 2x4 instead? Just like the title states ... I'm looking to jack up my e90 to install an AA Gen 2 muffler (just jacking rear driver's side). With that, has anyone used a cut piece of 2x4 instead of a block style (BMW/Mini) jack pad adapter? I don't want to damage the jack pad. I'd use a hockey puck, but unfortunately finding one in my town in FL is like finding a needle in a haystack. EDIT ... this is an axel back job. Simple cut stock muffler ... clamp AA muffler and attach to hangers. Installation link ... http://images.activeautowerke.com/In...ID%20PIPE).pdf . Last edited by N52UNED; 09-22-2018 at 09:30 AM..
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09-22-2018, 12:48 AM	#2
IISevv Private First Class 38 Rep 111 Posts Drives: 2007 335i FBO Join Date: Jul 2017 Location: Scottsdale, AZ iTrader: (0)	Jack it up from the rear subframe crossmember. It’s directly behind the rear diff. As for the jack point, if you’re worried about damaging anything, there’s a frame jack point almost directly inside of each rear wheel. To answer your question a 2x4 will work fine but I’d be wary of using something wet or otherwise compromised that could crush or split.
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09-22-2018, 04:35 AM	#3
Biginboca Colonel 3764 Rep 2,738 Posts Drives: 2009 E92 328i 6MT Join Date: Jun 2017 Location: Boynton Beach, FL... USA iTrader: (3)	I agree jack from the rear crossmember or the bottom of the diff (making sure you aren’t on the cover) and then lower it onto jackstands placed under each rear jack point. (A pair of Jackstands are like $20 at harbor freight and you can use a saws all with a hack blade to trim them to fit perfectly inside the jacking points.) You actually can’t use the rear jack point you want to use because there would be no way to put the car onto a jackstand then, your jack will block the jack point. Please do not get under your car to swap your muffler with the car supported only by a jack. It sounds like that was your plan and this is a very bad idea. Using wood between jack and car is also not a good idea. Your life and safety is worth the $20 for a pair of jack stands. https://www.harborfreight.com/3-ton-...nds-61196.html Last edited by Biginboca; 09-22-2018 at 06:23 AM..
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09-22-2018, 06:26 AM	#4
Efthreeoh General 17309 Rep 18,733 Posts Drives: The E90 + Z4 Coupe & Z3 R'ster Join Date: May 2012 Location: Virginia iTrader: (0)	I'll give some advice. First off, there are a lot of threads on how to properly raise the E90 chassis and set it on jack stands. You should search for them. In short, the correct and most safe way to raise the E90 to work on it is to work on the car on a hard and level surface, such as a concrete floor and use four (4) jackstands. Use a floor jack and lift the car from the center-front and center-rear jacking points and set the car on four (4) jackstands, one each placed under the lifting blocks on the rocker panels. The proper procedure is leave the car in neutral with the parking brake off; this allows for the car to roll over the jack as the car is lifted. Most people don't understand the floor jack arm moves in an arc, which necessitates either the jack to roll forward (towards) under the car (that's why it has wheels) or the car to roll towards (over) the jack. This prevents the car from slipping off the jack cup. The front jacking point is the one under the engine, denoted by the indented ring in the belly pan cover with the rectangle steel block in the center of it. The rear center jack point is the black cast-iron differential housing. The rear crossmemeber just behind the diff is okay to use (it's plenty strong enough), but using the diff gives about four (4) additional inches of height (the bottom of the diff is lower to the ground than the crossmember). Jack the front up first and place it on the stands. The jack up the rear and place it on the stands. If you lift the rear first, the front is then far too low to get a jack under it. The ideal jackstands are ones with flat tops (rubber coated is even better). If you don't have flat-top stands then placing a wood block between the stand and lifting block is the next best alternative. You don't need to precisely cut a 2x4 to fit inside the lifting block, the lifting block is designed to take the weight of the car on the walls of the block. If I used wood blocks, I'd just use 1/2" or 3/4" plywood squares. Plywood is cross-grained laminate wood, so it won't split along the wood grain if stressed like an old, dry 2x4 could. Back to the four (4) stands approach... I emphasize using four (4) jackstands because if any of the wheels are on the ground, there is always a chance the car will roll off the stands. If all four wheels are off the ground, the car cannot roll off the stands. It's just simple logic. Also, if you only use two (2) stands, then most people leave the car in gear and with the parking brake on, which gets back to my point about the car or the jack needing to roll as the car is lifted. You should never work under a car that is not completely lifted and supported off the ground. With the E90, people improperly use a jack on the lifting blocks and tear the shit out of them, so the blocks being plastic and torn up, so they don't trust the blocks to hold the weight of the car. You can leave an E90 sitting on the lifting blocks for 10 years and they'd easily hold the weight and not deform. I use a 2-post lift to work on my car. The lifting blocks are purposefully designed for the foot of the lift's arm to sit under the block and raise car up. I've left my car on my lift for several weeks at a time with no damage to the lifting blocks. 3 of my blocks are original (12 years old). My 2 cents. Good luck with your exhaust work. Have a helper, the stock exhaust is very heavy and ungainly to hold. If you have a transmission floor jack, suggest using it to lower the exhaust down and out from the car. The center balance point of the exhaust is a few inches rear of the center resonator. __________________ A manual transmission can be set to "comfort", "sport", and "track" modes simply by the technique and speed at which you shift it; it doesn't need "modes", modes are for manumatics that try to behave like a real 3-pedal manual transmission. If you can money-shift it, it's a manual transmission. "Yeah, but NO ONE puts an automatic trans shift knob on a manual transmission."
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09-22-2018, 08:59 AM	#5
Bimmer_Engineer Lieutenant Colonel 1044 Rep 1,667 Posts Drives: 2007 335i Join Date: May 2018 Location: Louisiana iTrader: (0) Garage List 2008 Porsche Boxster [0.00] 2016 Mercedes Benz ... [0.00] 2007 BMW 335i [9.50]	I’m using these with hockey pucks on top...they work great...I bought 4 hockey pucks off of eBay for $11 shipped as they are hard to come by in New Orleans as well... https://www.etrailer.com/Camper-Jack...48-979004.html
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09-22-2018, 09:05 AM	#6
IISevv Private First Class 38 Rep 111 Posts Drives: 2007 335i FBO Join Date: Jul 2017 Location: Scottsdale, AZ iTrader: (0)	So since you’re only wanting to jack up one corner, I’m guessing you’re not planning on removing the whole exhaust. That’ll make cutting and welding your exhaust a lot more difficult. The proper way to do it would be to jack it up from each center jack point and place a jack stand under each corner jack point (or any solid piece of the frame). Last edited by IISevv; 09-22-2018 at 09:11 AM..
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