[XtraTryHard]

Hi everyone, I'm new to the forums, recently joined. I have a 2008 328i with 151k miles now, And I wondering as what to look out for, in preventative repairs, as I drive the car. What major things should I look out for??? Thanks!!

Since 144k I've done:
Fuel Pressure Regulator (across the pump in the tank)
Valve Cover Gasket
Eccentric Shaft Gasket
Valvetronic Motor Gasket
Radiator Replacement, along 2 hoses
Oil Filter Housing Gasket
Expansion Tank Replaced
Outer Tie Rods w/ SwayBar Links
Water Pump and Thermostat
Automatic Trans Fluid, and Filter w/ pan gasket
Power Steering Fluid, & Reservoir Replaced

[ctuna]

This will ruin it for you.

broken belt
https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1305990
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho....php?t=1231881
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showpo...3&postcount=23
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1477111
https://www.oxwerkzperformance.com/

VCG and OFG are the common ones

[El Cheapo Loco]

Originally Posted by XtraTryHard

Since 144k I've done:
Fuel Pressure Regulator (across the pump in the tank)
Valve Cover Gasket
Eccentric Shaft Gasket
Valvetronic Motor Gasket
Radiator Replacement, along 2 hoses
Oil Filter Housing Gasket
Expansion Tank Replaced
Outer Tie Rods w/ SwayBar Links
Water Pump and Thermostat
Automatic Trans Fluid, and Filter w/ pan gasket
Power Steering Fluid, & Reservoir Replaced

Welcome to the forum. Looks like you've replaced pretty much all that could fail on the car. Other common failures are starter and oil pan gasket. There's no need to preemptively replace them, just monitor the starter by scanning regularly. OPG leak is just a nuisance which won't cause any harm to the car. If there's no maintenance history, I would flush the brake fluid as well.

[lowrydr310]

Originally Posted by XtraTryHard

Hi everyone, I'm new to the forums, recently joined. I have a 2008 328i with 151k miles now, And I wondering as what to look out for, in preventative repairs, as I drive the car. What major things should I look out for??? Thanks!!

Since 144k I've done:
Fuel Pressure Regulator (across the pump in the tank)
Valve Cover Gasket
Eccentric Shaft Gasket
Valvetronic Motor Gasket
Radiator Replacement, along 2 hoses
Oil Filter Housing Gasket
Expansion Tank Replaced
Outer Tie Rods w/ SwayBar Links
Water Pump and Thermostat
Automatic Trans Fluid, and Filter w/ pan gasket
Power Steering Fluid, & Reservoir Replaced

Welcome fellow L.A. high mileage N52 E90 owner!

Looks like you covered everything important and should be good for a LONG time. I bought mine with over 200K miles on it and all of the above listed items have been replaced recently, either by the previous owner just prior to purchase or by me shortly after.

The belt/tensioner links above show the only other somewhat common failure, and the aftermath of destruction if it fails. I wouldn't worry much about the belt breaking, but on the other hand if you don't know when it was changed last, it's cheap enough to just replace. If it still looks OK, just monitor the tensioner and idler pulley to make sure they're not bent. I personally had a bent tensioner and had to replace it.

The PCV system *may* cause trouble, specifically issues with the oil separator not functioning correctly, but if the hoses aren't cracked and there are no other issues like leaks or whistling, just leave it be and only replace if it fails.

I only had one 'major' failure which could have left me stranded and that was the alternator, but fortunately it was an intermittent failure that gave me plenty of notice to order a new one and replace it. It's also stupid easy to replace on these cars.

[smass]

I had leaking shocks/inserts on both the front and rear of my 06. The bump stops also needed to be replaced. The sunroof headliner also fell down.

[Efthreeoh]

All that stuff broke on your car, or did the internet convince you the parts were headed for catastrophic failure? The gasket leaks are common. The belt tensioner needs to be kept an eye on (as well as belt condition).

Elcheapo has a good point. Brake fluid is every 24 months from the build date month of the car (found on the compliance placard on the driver's door jamb). Good idea to get the brake flush done if you do not know the last service history.

These cars do not need as much maintenance as the internet says they do. Don't be one of those people who tow a trailer full of spare parts and a full tool set.. "just in case".

[smass]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

All that stuff broke on your car, or did the internet convince you the parts were headed for catastrophic failure? The gasket leaks are common. The belt tensioner needs to be kept an eye on (as well as belt condition).

Elcheapo has a good point. Brake fluid is every 24 months from the build date month of the car (found on the compliance placard on the driver's door jamb). Good idea to get the brake flush done if you do not know the last service history.

These cars do not need as much maintenance as the internet says they do. Don't be one of those people who tow a trailer full of spare parts and a full tool set.. "just in case".

Every single item on this thread has failed on my 06 325i w/ 125k miles. Plus the starter (twice), transmission solenoids and broken head bolt. My old 06 330i (owned by a friend now) has had only a few of the issues. So luck may have something to do with it.

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by smassey321

Every single item on this thread has failed on my 06 325i w/ 125k miles. Plus the starter (twice), transmission solenoids and broken head bolt. My old 06 330i (owned by a friend now) has had only a few of the issues. So luck may have something to do with it.

Really? So the power steering reservoir on your car failed? How?

[smass]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

Really? So the power steering reservoir on your car failed? How?

Shoot. No I did not change the PS. Did not read beyond change power steering fluid.

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by smassey321

Shoot. No I did not change the PS. Did not read beyond change power steering fluid.

Out of the OPs list, the fuel pressure regulator is not a common failure. I know bursting coolant reservoirs lately, mostly on 335i from what I've garnered, but I'm not so sure breaking reservoirs are all that common. Replacing a PS reservoir is really pointless IMO. Yeah, it has a filter in it, but outside of not wiping the reservoir clean before opening it to check the fluid level, what actual dirt gets in the system that would clog the filter? I've had 3 hydraulic-power steering BMWs with (E30) 257,000 ; (Z3) 189,000 ; and (E90) 382,000 miles on them, none ever had a PS reservoir change (all use the same reservoir part number).

I'd say that keeping any eye on the thermostat-to-head hose hose bib is a consideration based on the age and mileage most E9X have on them.

[Efthreeoh]

OP,

You didn't mention the engine air filter. The change interval is every 3rd oil change (BMW interval), so about every 45,000 miles.

The serpentine belt and tensioner should be evaluated. Small lateral cracks in the ribs of the belt suggest replacement is necessary. If the belt is not sitting directly on the tensioner pulley between the edges, then the tensioner bolt is starting to bend. If the belt is sitting over the front edge of the tensioner pully, then at minimum replace the mounting bolt, at most replace the tensioner and bolt. Many on-line retailers sell a kit from Continental, with the belt, tensioner, and bolt.

And again, the thermostat-to-head coolant hose can have a failing plastic hose bib on the head-side of the hose. No real way to inspect it, other than draining the cooling system and removing the fitting, which if you go through all that, you might as well replace the plastic bib with the aluminum part. The other weak link coolant hose is the return hose from the top of the upper radiator hose fitting back over to the coolant reservoir. You've replaced the upper rad hose and coolant tank, the return hose should e checked. Now, if the return hose is a small-diameter plastic tube from the reservoir tank running under the intake snout, then the hose was replaced at some point. The original hose had a rubber hose off of the reservoir that then switched to a plastic tube that runs under the intake snout. The original hose is the one susceptible to failure.

[mecheng77]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

OP,

You didn't mention the engine air filter. The change interval is every 3rd oil change (BMW interval), so about every 45,000 miles.

The serpentine belt and tensioner should be evaluated. Small lateral cracks in the ribs of the belt suggest replacement is necessary. If the belt is not sitting directly on the tensioner pulley between the edges, then the tensioner bolt is starting to bend. If the belt is sitting over the front edge of the tensioner pully, then at minimum replace the mounting bolt, at most replace the tensioner and bolt. Many on-line retailers sell a kit from Continental, with the belt, tensioner, and bolt.

And again, the thermostat-to-head coolant hose can have a failing plastic hose bib on the head-side of the hose. No real way to inspect it, other than draining the cooling system and removing the fitting, which if you go through all that, you might as well replace the plastic bib with the aluminum part. The other weak link coolant hose is the return hose from the top of the upper radiator hose fitting back over to the coolant reservoir. You've replaced the upper rad hose and coolant tank, the return hose should e checked. Now, if the return hose is a small-diameter plastic tube from the reservoir tank running under the intake snout, then the hose was replaced at some point. The original hose had a rubber hose off of the reservoir that then switched to a plastic tube that runs under the intake snout. The original hose is the one susceptible to failure.

"The original hose had a rubber hose off of the reservoir that then switched to a plastic tube that runs under the intake snout. "

So the replacement plastic line is good? Wouldn't it crack justlike the rubber / plastic line. I couldn't find that line in aluminum only copper.

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by mecheng77

"The original hose had a rubber hose off of the reservoir that then switched to a plastic tube that runs under the intake snout. "

So the replacement plastic line is good? Wouldn't it crack justlike the rubber / plastic line. I couldn't find that line in aluminum only copper.

When I swapped out all my hoses about 5 years ago, the replacement for the return hose was plastic all the way from the reservoir to about 5 inches before it reaches the top rad. hose. It's a different design and I assume a different plastic used. I've kept my eye on it over the years. Its been on my car since Jan. 2014 and 150,000 miles. It doesn't seem anymore brittle than the day I installed it. The original hose was on the car for 8 years and 230,000 miles. I still have the original, the plastic seems good to this day.

[Red_Tears]

VANOS solenoids are something to watch for, my 07 started having crazy issues and they turned out to be the culprit, my symptoms were the same as if you had a bad coil or bad spark plugs, running rough, DYING at a stop, etc. I replaced coils, SP's and even the MAP sensor before I figured that out.

Nathan's DIY garage on YT has some great videos on repairs and such for that car, if you have issues I recommend you check his channel, he is also responsive to comments and will try to help as much as he can without seeing the car. Congrats on the new car, enjoy it!

-R

[smass]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

Out of the OPs list, the fuel pressure regulator is not a common failure.

I'd say that keeping any eye on the thermostat-to-head hose hose bib is a consideration based on the age and mileage most E9X have on them.

The fuel pressure regulator is not common, but is happening more often on the older E90 and E70s. But it is not going to leave you on the side of the road. It just starts to smell like gas outside the drivers side rear tire.

I was keeping an eye on thermostat to head hose and it looked great even though it was 15 years old. But since my daughter was taking the car to college, I decided to change it. The hose was just about to fail. The plastic fitting was failing on the inside where you cant see it. And that one will leave you on the side of the road.

[BMWinAZ]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

Really? So the power steering reservoir on your car failed? How?

It's relatively cheap and easy to replace the reservoir. The filter for the fluid is built into the reservoir, ergo, you have to change the reservoir if you want to change the filter.

[BMWinAZ]

Originally Posted by Red_Tears

VANOS solenoids are something to watch for, my 07 started having crazy issues and they turned out to be the culprit, my symptoms were the same as if you had a bad coil or bad spark plugs, running rough, DYING at a stop, etc. I replaced coils, SP's and even the MAP sensor before I figured that out.

Nathan's DIY garage on YT has some great videos on repairs and such for that car, if you have issues I recommend you check his channel, he is also responsive to comments and will try to help as much as he can without seeing the car. Congrats on the new car, enjoy it!

-R

I cleaned the VANOS solenoids and swapped them with each other on my e90 at around 75k miles. It tends to prolong the lifespan of the solenoids and the car idled and ran smoother afterwards.

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by BMWinAZ

It's relatively cheap and easy to replace the reservoir. The filter for the fluid is built into the reservoir, ergo, you have to change the reservoir if you want to change the filter.

Why would you want to change the filter? Just because it's a filter?

[XtraTryHard]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

OP,

You didn't mention the engine air filter. The change interval is every 3rd oil change (BMW interval), so about every 45,000 miles.

The serpentine belt and tensioner should be evaluated. Small lateral cracks in the ribs of the belt suggest replacement is necessary. If the belt is not sitting directly on the tensioner pulley between the edges, then the tensioner bolt is starting to bend. If the belt is sitting over the front edge of the tensioner pully, then at minimum replace the mounting bolt, at most replace the tensioner and bolt. Many on-line retailers sell a kit from Continental, with the belt, tensioner, and bolt.

And again, the thermostat-to-head coolant hose can have a failing plastic hose bib on the head-side of the hose. No real way to inspect it, other than draining the cooling system and removing the fitting, which if you go through all that, you might as well replace the plastic bib with the aluminum part. The other weak link coolant hose is the return hose from the top of the upper radiator hose fitting back over to the coolant reservoir. You've replaced the upper rad hose and coolant tank, the return hose should e checked. Now, if the return hose is a small-diameter plastic tube from the reservoir tank running under the intake snout, then the hose was replaced at some point. The original hose had a rubber hose off of the reservoir that then switched to a plastic tube that runs under the intake snout. The original hose is the one susceptible to failure.

I forgot to mention that I had replaced the belt and tensioner just recently. I was honestly reay lucky because when I removed the belt, it was cracked all around and I was surprised it held up all this time. I say that because I had that belt for around 20k miles now, probably got it all gunked up from when I did the VC gasket, and Radiator jobs. The hose from the thermo to the head was replaced as part of 2, and lemme tell you, it broke literally when my arm bumped into it when removing the fan, badly rotted. The other was the one from the Expansion Tank to the top of the radiator. Other than that, been doing the AF every other oil change. PCV is what's kinda worrying me now, since oil level is slowly dropping and i have a "chirping" sounds from the Manifold.

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by XtraTryHard

I forgot to mention that I had replaced the belt and tensioner just recently. I was honestly reay lucky because when I removed the belt, it was cracked all around and I was surprised it held up all this time. I say that because I had that belt for around 20k miles now, probably got it all gunked up from when I did the VC gasket, and Radiator jobs. The hose from the thermo to the head was replaced as part of 2, and lemme tell you, it broke literally when my arm bumped into it when removing the fan, badly rotted. The other was the one from the Expansion Tank to the top of the radiator. Other than that, been doing the AF every other oil change. PCV is what's kinda worrying me now, since oil level is slowly dropping and i have a "chirping" sounds from the Manifold.

Engine air filters only need replacement every 45,000 miles unless you live in a very dusty climate.

[XtraTryHard]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

Engine air filters only need replacement every 45,000 miles unless you live in a very dusty climate.

Anyone who lives in LA, can tell you that in the Summer, especially, air quality gets bad on the hottest of days. The air here can get dusty, and very smoggy some days. That's why I change it so often. Only things worrying me now are PCV system, suspension and body seals.

[BMWinAZ]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

Why would you want to change the filter? Just because it's a filter?

Because it eventually becomes somewhat clogged up. I am also not a believer in lifetime fluids, so when I drained and replaced the almost ten year old steering fluid (which was almost black, new it's dark green), it made sense (to me) to also replace the reservoir. Doing this tends to prolong the life of the steering fluid pump, which is more labor intensive and pricier to replace.