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      03-28-2018, 10:38 AM   #1
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So I turned on the ignition without DME...

The shop removed the DME for some welding in the engine bay area as a precaution, but forgot to tell me about it before I tried to flash the car in order to get the car ready for final assembly and testing.

The dash and idrive lit up like the christmas tree when I turn on the ignition without the DME. I manage to clear them away after putting the DME back in and completed the MHD flash.

But the problem now is that my steering wheel buttons, paddle shifters, and the usb port in the glovebox (CIC idrive) all stopped working. I lost the manual mode for the automatic transmission as well, but was able to get it back by doing the xHP emergency flash (the app is telling that there is a checksum error with the TCU). But if I flash it back to the xHP stage 3 map, I would lose the manual mode again (switching to D/S does nothing).

Any clue as to how to solve this? Thanks in advance.
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      03-29-2018, 02:56 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cloud9blue View Post
The shop removed the DME for some welding in the engine bay area as a precaution, but forgot to tell me about it before I tried to flash the car in order to get the car ready for final assembly and testing.

The dash and idrive lit up like the christmas tree when I turn on the ignition without the DME. I manage to clear them away after putting the DME back in and completed the MHD flash.

But the problem now is that my steering wheel buttons, paddle shifters, and the usb port in the glovebox (CIC idrive) all stopped working. I lost the manual mode for the automatic transmission as well, but was able to get it back by doing the xHP emergency flash (the app is telling that there is a checksum error with the TCU). But if I flash it back to the xHP stage 3 map, I would lose the manual mode again (switching to D/S does nothing).

Any clue as to how to solve this? Thanks in advance.
Please tell us the fault codes being thrown....
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      03-29-2018, 01:17 PM   #3
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fault codes are being super helpful, but here are the two codes from the EGS.

5087
This is a shifter related code, which is what people get when their shifter wires break, from what I read (https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/at...1&d=1489815785). I checked, they are fine (repaired two years back and holding up just fine). And since I can get the DS mode to work, I believe the shifter is fine.

511B
This looks like a checksum error. Not sure what to make of it.

DS mode can regained by doing the emergency flash with xHP or by flashing the car back to stock then to alpina. If we try to recode the EGS (transmission module) with NCSexpert to get the paddle shifter working again, the car would lose the DS mode again... Very odd. Reflashing the car to stock or the stage 3 map I was using before with xHP would net the same results, no DS, paddle, and buttons...

Both my coder and I are all super confused at the moment and not sure what to do other than pulling out the big guns like ISTA and ICOM. The only other info I can find is this thread: http://www.n54tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=52252 The OP is having the exact same issue as me after replacing his transmission.
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      03-29-2018, 01:40 PM   #4
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Try flashing the dme back to stock and see if it fixes it, then redo the flash. It probably needs a full write.

Edit nevermind you did that. Double check to make sure that your on map 0 if using a jb4, also try unplugging the battery for 10mins and see what happens.
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      03-29-2018, 02:17 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buster84 View Post
Try flashing the dme back to stock and see if it fixes it, then redo the flash. It probably needs a full write.

Edit nevermind you did that. Double check to make sure that your on map 0 if using a jb4, also try unplugging the battery for 10mins and see what happens.
no jb4
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      03-29-2018, 02:26 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by Cloud9blue View Post
no jb4
Did you try the battery reset by unplugging the negative for 10 mins allowing it to reset? Do you have reingold? If so use that to delete all the codes after you reset the battery. Also if you get the 4x4 error after the battery reset (this is normal) just rotate your steering wheel from one side to the other completely.
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      03-29-2018, 02:39 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buster84 View Post
Did you try the battery reset by unplugging the negative for 10 mins allowing it to reset? Do you have reingold? If so use that to delete all the codes after you reset the battery. Also if you get the 4x4 error after the battery reset (this is normal) just rotate your steering wheel from one side to the other completely.
yeah, tried the battery reset. i do have access to reingold ista, so thats the next step.

gonna go check the fusebox, just to make sure it isnt something stupid like this. it is weird that the lights on my steering wheel buttons arent even lighting up... now that i think of it
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      03-29-2018, 03:54 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cloud9blue View Post
yeah, tried the battery reset. i do have access to reingold ista, so thats the next step.

gonna go check the fusebox, just to make sure it isnt something stupid like this. it is weird that the lights on my steering wheel buttons arent even lighting up... now that i think of it
Hmm, from personal experience I had my cic malfunction once and the controls wouldn't work and it threw a code (hidden) that was only seen my reingold ista and after I reset the codes on there it was back to working.

Maybe that'll work for you too. If that still doesn't fix it maybe double check the dme to make sure a pin or wire didn't get pinched/damaged when being reinstalled. The other possibility is a fuse like you were also thinking.

Is it just these or have you noticed other things not working like Windows, locks, cruise control, wipers ect...
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      03-29-2018, 06:15 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buster84 View Post
Hmm, from personal experience I had my cic malfunction once and the controls wouldn't work and it threw a code (hidden) that was only seen my reingold ista and after I reset the codes on there it was back to working.

Maybe that'll work for you too. If that still doesn't fix it maybe double check the dme to make sure a pin or wire didn't get pinched/damaged when being reinstalled. The other possibility is a fuse like you were also thinking.

Is it just these or have you noticed other things not working like Windows, locks, cruise control, wipers ect...
everything else works perfect... just no paddle and multifunctional buttons and no DS/M mode. just install a new single turbo, so really hate driving it in auto mode right now, lol

good call on the DME, I will check on the wiring in that area again since it was touched during the turbo install. one of the pins was pushed in and causing a post cat o2 code, but i fixed that pull it out with a needle nose pliers and doubled checked the pins. i guess what's left is possible wiring harness damage in that area.

also gonna check the clock spring at the steering wheel. considering the lights on the multifunctional buttons are not lighting as well and the buttons themselves and the paddles are on the same circuit, i think it is highly possible that the clock spring was damaged when my mechanic was un/installing the sub-frame and the steering rack. Horn and rest of the switches (lights, wiper, and cruise control) are on separate circuits.

Fuses are fine btw, just checked this afternoon.
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      03-29-2018, 08:06 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cloud9blue View Post
everything else works perfect... just no paddle and multifunctional buttons and no DS/M mode. just install a new single turbo, so really hate driving it in auto mode right now, lol

good call on the DME, I will check on the wiring in that area again since it was touched during the turbo install. one of the pins was pushed in and causing a post cat o2 code, but i fixed that pull it out with a needle nose pliers and doubled checked the pins. i guess what's left is possible wiring harness damage in that area.

also gonna check the clock spring at the steering wheel. considering the lights on the multifunctional buttons are not lighting as well and the buttons themselves and the paddles are on the same circuit, i think it is highly possible that the clock spring was damaged when my mechanic was un/installing the sub-frame and the steering rack. Horn and rest of the switches (lights, wiper, and cruise control) are on separate circuits.

Fuses are fine btw, just checked this afternoon.
Ahh, we'll hopefully it works again here soon, lots of power and no paddle shifters suck lol.

Did you test the rest of the steering wheel controls? Wipers? Cruse, Bluetooth? There has to be a link somewhere that can help you to figure out where to look.
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      03-29-2018, 08:15 PM   #11
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Found the problem. Lets hope the local dealer has it in stock tomorrow morning.




buster84 thanks for the help btw!
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      03-29-2018, 08:17 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by Cloud9blue View Post
Found the problem. Lets hope the local dealer has it in stock tomorrow morning.




buster84 thanks for the help btw!
What is that? So one side isn't connected to something? I find it a little suspicious that some hardware in your steering wheel could go out right after trying to start the car with no dme. Did the mechanic touch this area?
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      03-29-2018, 08:30 PM   #13
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What is that? So one side isn't connected to something? I find it a little suspicious that some hardware in your steering wheel could go out right after trying to start the car with no dme. Did the mechanic touch this area?
oh no, it has nothing to with DME. this is the clock spring inside the steering column, the ribbon cable is designed to flex so it can carries the signal from the multifunctional buttons and paddle to the rest of the car.

one of the ribbon was snapped because my shop turned the steering column too far when the steering rack was uninstalled during the single turbo build. without the steering rack, the steering wheel will turn non-stop and that's how you destroy the clock spring.
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      03-29-2018, 08:49 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cloud9blue View Post
oh no, it has nothing to with DME. this is the clock spring inside the steering column, the ribbon cable is designed to flex so it can carries the signal from the multifunctional buttons and paddle to the rest of the car.

one of the ribbon was snapped because my shop turned the steering column too far when the steering rack was uninstalled during the single turbo build. without the steering rack, the steering wheel will turn non-stop and that's how you destroy the clock spring.
Ohh. That explains it. Since they caused it ask them for a repair?
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      03-29-2018, 10:46 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buster84 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cloud9blue View Post
oh no, it has nothing to with DME. this is the clock spring inside the steering column, the ribbon cable is designed to flex so it can carries the signal from the multifunctional buttons and paddle to the rest of the car.

one of the ribbon was snapped because my shop turned the steering column too far when the steering rack was uninstalled during the single turbo build. without the steering rack, the steering wheel will turn non-stop and that's how you destroy the clock spring.
Ohh. That explains it. Since they caused it ask them for a repair?
It seriously takes longer to drive there than for me to fix this myself. Told them they can make it up next time I am there.
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      03-29-2018, 10:48 PM   #16
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It seriously takes longer to drive there than for me to fix this myself. Told them they can make it up next time I am there.
Ahh ok, we'll thankfully you figured it our! Keep us updated with logs of the power
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