[tom9192]

Got the transmission out tonight. Looks like something came loose in the DMF and punctured the side. And smart move ordering the tools for the main seal- I'm hoping not to replace that so I don't have to buy them. If mine's bad I'll take you up on renting them though

[DaanBMW]

Originally Posted by RuinE90d

I replaced my oil pan gasket, motor and trans mounts about 2 years ago. I recommend completely uncoupling the subframe to do the oil pan (lowering it and leaving it connected is a PITA).

[snip]

As for the oil separator hoses, many of those broke upon removal of the intake manifold. Oil cooler gasket was leaking a little and starter had failed which is how I discovered the failed DMF.

Makes sense, thanks for the follow-up.

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by RuinE90d

Forgot to mention, I'm not sure if removal of the intake manifold is necessary, but it makes the starter and upper bell housing bolts easier to access.

As I wait for parts I research and read the forums, and decide to increase the scope of work (to prevent revisiting some of the currently exposed components). Consequently, this means I order more parts...

This weekend's repair scope will now include:

Clutch/flywheel
Starter
Crank front and rear main seals
Oil cooler gasket
Upper radiator hose (was sort of ballooning)
Intake manifold gaskets
Overflow coolant hose
ECS shifter bushing refresh kit
Oil separator and respective hoses
Transmission Input/output/shifter seals
Transmission fluid and plugs
Front flex disk
Clutch fork, pivot pin and spring

Don't forget to replace the throwout bearing sleeve. It will be worn.

[gT-BMW]

wow thats a healthy list so i guess that means you can safety do burnouts

[lab_rat]

Sub'd.

What a great (but tedious) list of items to tackle, OP. Thanks for sharing all the good info.

[RuinE90d]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

Don't forget to replace the throwout bearing sleeve. It will be worn.

I washed the throw out guide tube with brake cleaner, inspected it and decided to reuse it. There are some worn (polished) areas but nothing of structural concern.

I removed the thermostat to head coolant hose tonight (replacing the oil cooler gasket) to find the thermoplastic is broken. I'm glad it didn't break on my drive to work or some other inconvenient time. Hope to find one tomorrow.

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by RuinE90d

I washed the throw out guide tube with brake cleaner, inspected it and decided to reuse it. There are some worn (polished) areas but nothing of structural concern.

I removed the thermostat to head coolant hose tonight (replacing the oil cooler gasket) to find the thermoplastic is broken. I'm glad it didn't break on my drive to work or some other inconvenient time. Hope to find one tomorrow.

There is a thread around here somewhere that replaces that plastic hose bib with an aluminum equivalent part. All you need to do is cut the band off the hose and replace the bib with the aluminum part and a new hose clamp. Ebay is where it is available IIRC. I'm pretty sure it works on both the N52 and N54, but I'm not 100% on it. It looks like the same part. The complete hose is not used between the 335i and the 325/328 (N52), but the actual bib looks to be the same. I'm not aware if anyone has actually checked.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-335i-11...ef893f&vxp=mtr

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1117422

When I did my E90 clutch I missed getting the sleeve because I assumed it came with the clutch kit. When I replaced the clutch on my Wife's Z3 a few years ago I ordered the clutch kit from BMW and the sleeve came with the kit. I had ordered the part separately for her car as well, so I ended up with 2. So when I ordered the E90 clutch kit I didn't order the sleeve. I didn't notice the sleeve was not in the kit until I had pulled the trans and when to install the clutch. Mine was pretty worn on just one side, so I flipped it 180 degrees it's been good for 50,000 miles now. I was doing the clutch over new years weekend 2016 and couldn't source the sleeve. I'm set to replace the throwout bearing in the Z4; I definitely ordered the sleeve this time.

Anyway, good luck with the hose.

[RuinE90d]

Made some progress today since I have Fridays off. Could have probably finished the job in a 12 hour day with all the parts and tools, but I ran into some tool issues today:

1st issue: The 30mm Deep well socket needed to pull the yoke off the trans was lost in shipping, received only an empty envelope today... probably go buy a socket locally tomorrow since this seal is already leaking.

2nd: The Bav Auto rear main seal install tool doesn't fit for my car. As seen in pictures 1 & 3, the 1.64" nose of the crankshaft is too big for the 1.57" recess of the tool. Not sure if that's the case for all N52s or not. I tried to enlarge the hole or even cutting it off with a metal cutting disk, but the hardened steel wasn't having it. So I half used the kit (just the orange hub piece)... the ol' hub and a mallet approach to (gently) drive the new seal in. Hope it doesn't leak.

On a positive note, I should mention that the front seal kit from Bav Auto worked great for both removal and install.

3rd: Used the BMW primer and sealant... pricey stuff. Didn't have the right dispenser tool for the syringe, so I used a ratchet extension and probably pushed too hard. Most of the sealant came out around the plunger. I'd probably just use Permatex Ultra Black next time.

Later with both front and rear main seals installed, I mounted the flywheel and clutch. Then I readied the trans for reinstall. I looked at rotating the TB guide sleeve 180 degrees, but it won't work for this design unless you cut the sleeve base (and weaken it). Ordered the aluminum hose bib/nozzle and removed the old one. The dealer wanted $80 for a new hose and most of the Indy dealers are out of stock on the off brands. Along the way I did some degreasing the trans and engine block.

Oh and I did some dimensional inspection of the stacked clutch assemblies side by side to convince myself further that it will work as expected. Then I weighed them to verify they are the same weight (36 lbs assembled, 22 lb flywheel) as the OEM assemblies. I also inspected the pilot bearing depth in the flywheel to verify it was completely seated.

I'm planning to upload DIY videos to YouTube soon. Attached my checklist for now, more to come tomorrow.

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by RuinE90d

Made some progress today since I have Fridays off. Could have probably finished the job in a 12 hour day with all the parts and tools, but I ran into some tool issues today:

1st issue: The 30mm Deep well socket needed to pull the yoke off the trans was lost in shipping, received only an empty envelope today... probably go buy a socket locally tomorrow since this seal is already leaking.

2nd: The Bav Auto rear main seal install tool doesn't fit for my car. As seen in pictures 1 & 3, the 1.64" nose of the crankshaft is too big for the 1.57" recess of the tool. Not sure if that's the case for all N52s or not. I tried to enlarge the hole or even cutting it off with a metal cutting disk, but the hardened steel wasn't having it. So I half used the kit (just the orange hub piece)... the ol' hub and a mallet approach to (gently) drive the new seal in. Hope it doesn't leak.

On a positive note, I should mention that the front seal kit from Bav Auto worked great for both removal and install.

3rd: Used the BMW primer and sealant... pricey stuff. Didn't have the right dispenser tool for the syringe, so I used a ratchet extension and probably pushed too hard. Most of the sealant came out around the plunger. I'd probably just use Permatex Ultra Black next time.

Later with both front and rear main seals installed, I mounted the flywheel and clutch. Then I readied the trans for reinstall. I looked at rotating the TB guide sleeve 180 degrees, but it won't work for this design unless you cut the sleeve base (and weaken it). Ordered the aluminum hose bib/nozzle and removed the old one. The dealer wanted $80 for a new hose and most of the Indy dealers are out of stock on the off brands. Along the way I did some degreasing the trans and engine block.

Oh and I did some dimensional inspection of the stacked clutch assemblies side by side to convince myself further that it will work as expected. Then I weighed them to verify they are the same weight (36 lbs assembled, 22 lb flywheel) as the OEM assemblies. I also inspected the pilot bearing depth in the flywheel to verify it was completely seated.

I'm planning to upload DIY videos to YouTube soon. Attached my checklist for now, more to come tomorrow.

Jezzus have you been busy! I find it interesting that that TB guide tube doesn't rotate 180 deg., but I just checked RealOEM and the sleeve parts are different between the 325i and the 330i, so I guess it makes sense; but i would have thought the design would be similar.

It sounds like you are replacing the output shaft seal on the trans. Did you to the shifter rod seal? That's where my trans was leaking.

And just to verify, the aluminium hose bib fits the N52 engine-to-thermostat hose?

[RuinE90d]

Yah, I replaced the shifter seal already, that one was leaking too. Strange how dirty the top of the trans was, I guess that was fluid from the breather.? Wouldn't have expected quite that much fluid.

As for the aluminum hose bib, I'm rolling the dice on that one and being the guinea pig. Hopefully it fits, I really would prefer not to put thermoplastic back.

Here's the guide tube:

[RuinE90d]

I was wrong about the socket size on the transmission yoke, must be a 35 or 36 mm deep well. After buying and trying a 30 and 34 I decided to worry about it later and move on. Got the transmission back in and everything but the covers buttoned up below.

I was about to put the car on the ground when I decided to replace the oil separator to oil pan hose. I mistakenly ordered this hose twice and ended up with two versions (I think they were both from RockAuto). The standard design hose was being a PITA to install on the oil pan... so I stopped (after 20 min and reseating o-rings) to compare hoses. I noticed the 2nd hose was rubber not flimsy corrugated tubing, it also had no connector on the oil pan side, perfect for a worm drive hose clamp. So I thought might as well put the insulation from the first hose on it at least. When I went to pull the insulation off the whole thing came apart easily so I decided to transfer the heater to the rubber hose too.

Tomorrow I need to reinstall upper engine electrical and the intake manifold. Probably be a day or two still on the aluminum hose bib, coolant bleed and start up. I worked about 6 hours both Friday and Saturday, so it is more than 12 hours worth of work.

[tom9192]

Thanks for the updates- You are tackling quite a bit- good luck on the rest of your work. I finished my valeo SMF conversion install late last night and did a test drive - Couldn't be happier. No chatter, earlier clutch engagement, and feels silky smooth.

For others reading - took me about 12 hours under the car for the clutch and engine mount replacement(On jack stands and first time doing this). Took a good hour just to get the input shaft spline lined up with the clutch- not fun. I'll also confirm what the OP said about not needing to take the exhaust out(as Pelican and Bentley suggest). However, I did have to remove the flange bolts to get a 10m metal hanger bolt out and in order to tilt the engine down enough to get those top 2 transmission bolts, so I'd go ahead and order the gaskets and 10mm locking nuts.

Now on to the next job- When I test drove last night my blower wasn't working. Turns out the wiring harness was corroded bad and has exposed wires. It's under recall, but can't take it in yet according to bmw. At least it didn't start a fire!

[Vetracr]

Just curious. When I changed from a DMF to a SMF on my Corvette the ZF transmission rattled in neutral like I was driving a Diesel. I have an N52 E89 6 speed which shares common flywheel with the E90. I've thought about conversion to a SMf but wondered if it would cause transmission rattle in neutral. What has been experience with noise after conversion?

[RuinE90d]

Originally Posted by tom9192

Thanks for the updates- You are tackling quite a bit- good luck on the rest of your work. I finished my valeo SMF conversion install late last night and did a test drive - Couldn't be happier. No chatter, earlier clutch engagement, and feels silky smooth.

For others reading - took me about 12 hours under the car for the clutch and engine mount replacement(On jack stands and first time doing this). Took a good hour just to get the input shaft spline lined up with the clutch- not fun. I'll also confirm what the OP said about not needing to take the exhaust out(as Pelican and Bentley suggest). However, I did have to remove the flange bolts to get a 10m metal hanger bolt out and in order to tilt the engine down enough to get those top 2 transmission bolts, so I'd go ahead and order the gaskets and 10mm locking nuts.

Now on to the next job- When I test drove last night my blower wasn't working. Turns out the wiring harness was corroded bad and has exposed wires. It's under recall, but can't take it in yet according to bmw. At least it didn't start a fire!

Tom, I'm glad to hear you've had good results with the SMF conversion. I wanted to ask, could you indicate (on a drawing or pic of the engine) which bolts required you to loosen the exhaust? I ask because I was able to reach everything on that side of the motor with extensions and universal joints and did not touch the exhaust. Did you leave the intake manifold in place?

I too had some difficulty inserting the input shaft/mating the transmission. Fortunately I had a friend come help with that part. I rotated the trans output shat while the trans was held close to position which helped with the final alignment.

[tom9192]

Originally Posted by Vetracr

Just curious. When I changed from a DMF to a SMF on my Corvette the ZF transmission rattled in neutral like I was driving a Diesel. I have an N52 E89 6 speed which shares common flywheel with the E90. I've thought about conversion to a SMf but wondered if it would cause transmission rattle in neutral. What has been experience with noise after conversion?

Absolutely no discernible noise difference from the DMF for me in neutral.

[tom9192]

Originally Posted by RuinE90d

Tom, I'm glad to hear you've had good results with the SMF conversion. I wanted to ask, could you indicate (on a drawing or pic of the engine) which bolts required you to loosen the exhaust? I ask because I was able to reach everything on that side of the motor with extensions and universal joints. Did you leave the intake manifold in place?

I too had some difficulty inserting the input shaft/mating the transmission. Fortunately I had a friend come help with that part. I rotated the trans output shat while the trans was held close to position which helped with the final alignment.

The two bolts circled in red(ignore the green arrows) are the ones I don't believe I could have reached with the exhaust in place. I did not touch the intake manifold. Now I didn't actually try to reach them while leaving the exhaust tight, because I had to loosen the exhaust to reach the metal hanger bolt circled in the other picture. The little nut shaped piece wouldn't grab with a wrench and the exhaust was in the way of letting a socket in. Those top two bolts really required me, even with wobble extensions and universal joints, to tilt the transmission down quite a bit. I'd imagine if the exhaust was connected this tilting would be inhibited.

Another hand would have been very helpful for getting the spline in place. I also had my transmission in neutral so rotating was a bit trickier.

PSA to everyone to check there blower motor wiring. Mine wasn't look so good...

[RuinE90d]

Interesting... I was able to remove that "mickey mouse" sheet metal nut with pliers, but had trouble with any other tool. That nut was a pain though, made me curse BMW for not using a real fastener.

This is the way to access the bolts w/o touching the exhaust FWIW to others.

[RuinE90d]

Having reinstalled the intake manifold today, I would definitely recommend pulling/loosening the exhaust over removing the intake if one has to be done for the clutch job. Reinstalling the IM, oil separator hoses/cables and sensor cables was the worst part of the entire project. Maybe I didn't do it the most efficient way.? The way I installed it was to basically set it within inches of the installed position (because sensor/hose/cable length) and reach around the manifold making each connection. Every connection made the IM more difficult move, so it took about 3 hours.

[PhaseP]

Originally Posted by RuinE90d

I was about to put the car on the ground when I decided to replace the oil separator to oil pan hose. I mistakenly ordered this hose twice and ended up with two versions (I think they were both from RockAuto). The standard design hose was being a PITA to install on the oil pan... so I stopped (after 20 min and reseating o-rings) to compare hoses. I noticed the 2nd hose was rubber not flimsy corrugated tubing, it also had no connector on the oil pan side, perfect for a worm drive hose clamp. So I thought might as well put the insulation from the first hose on it at least. When I went to pull the insulation off the whole thing came apart easily so I decided to transfer the heater to the rubber hose too.

I hope I am not too late, but the original hose at the bend section where it goes into the oil pan has a "check valve". It allows flow from the top to the oil pan, but seals when pressure goes from oil pan to the hose.

This is needed because in case oil separator on top malfunctions and engine pulls full vacuum from the crankcase it will take up oil from that hose up and into the engine via the manifold. In older BMW engines when this happens, it is reported to suck and burn all the engine oil in a very short time then engine failure. N52 doesn't have as much vacuum due to Valvetronic most of the times, but I think it does close the throttle butterfly at idle or something like that causes high vacuum. And it is frequently reported that the oil separator malfunctions and pulls full vacuum on the crankcase, usually the crankshaft seals let in air when this happens making noise and leaking there. Without the check valve when this malfunction happens it will pull the oil from the oil pan into the engine.

So in summary, I wouldn't put it like that. Use the correct hose that is meant for there.

For anyone else reading this oil return line to the oil pan is only for the magnesium valve cover N52's. Plastic valve cover N52's don't have this return line. In US only 2006 325 and 330 E9X

[PhaseP]

As to putting it back in, it just clicks in when pushed in. But it has two O-rings inside that causes some amount of friction to be overcome to. Some oil in there may help to ease it in.
If you have steel oil pan the tube it goes into is steel too I believe. It could have collected some rust on the tip section, cleaning that rust can also help.
If you have aluminum oil pan (all xis and all automatic transmissions) that is a plastic tube that goes into the oil pan.

Usually removing that hose is the difficult part than putting it back in. But I agree aligning it back can be difficult if you removed it completely from top. Been there when I had replace the oil separator, I know that manifold with the oil separator and lines are frustrating.

[RuinE90d]

PhaseP, thanks for the info! Haven't started the engine yet still waiting on a hose bib for the coolant system. I'm going to double check you on that and then take the appropriate action. I will follow up though.

[RuinE90d]

You are correct, the OEM hose has a ball check valve in the lower fitting that connects to the oil pan. Which is the fitting I struggled to put back on the oil pan, maybe because it wasn't OEM (maybe incorrect ID).? Interestingly enough the OEM style hose from RockAuto (black and yellow Rein ABV0178) does not have the ball check valve. In other words, neither of the off brand hoses contained the check valve... so this is a case where OEM may be worth the money.

I say may because the AOS would have to experience a diaphragm failure before the engine would start consuming oil from the pan. I think one would notice the oil consumption/smoke before failing an engine. Plus the ECU would alert of the low oil level at one qt low wouldn't it?

I agree the ball check valve is there for a reason but I don't think it's a case of "I hope it's not too late." It's very unlikely the diaphragm in a new AOS would fail on start up or anytime right away. Don't get me wrong, I appreciate your shedding light on the check valve... but I worry about people thinking that 'using a non check valve hose means imminent engine failure'.

Having said all that, I will probably install another OEM hose in the short term. Do you know if the hose can be installed from beneath the car without removing the IM? I was trying to install the Rein hose with oil on the o-rings but couldn't get it to slide onto the steel tube. There was no rust or debris, I just couldn't push it far enough to reach the barb on the tube (and this was before the IM was in place).