[ash335]

Quick review on an item...

Dental tool set from fleabay.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/331748056...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT



Bought as I needed to inspect my BOV at idle (all closed btw ). Tools of reasonable quality.
The pick and the tweezer look like will come in handy too for gasket removal and retrieval.
Not bad for $8.50!

[Socket]

Originally Posted by ash335

Bought as I needed to inspect my BOV at idle (all closed btw ). Tools of reasonable quality.
The pick and the tweezer look like will come in handy too for gasket removal and retrieval.
Not bad for $8.50!

And you can do your own fillings lol

[ash335]

Small update...
Getting car prepped for track day next weekend

Had noticed a subtle vibration at speed (100km/h) a few weeks after getting alignment... had a 4 wheel balance completed at BobJ TM Nunawading (new store)... nice manager, helpful. Right rear 25g off... must have fallen off at some point. Can a pressure washer do this?

Anyways, while they were checking things out, they noticed a decent amount of lateral play in the front wheels... likely control arm bushings worn.
The balance seems to have fixed the vibration.
Was looking at the M3 upgrade kits... any difference BMW vs TRW?
Looks like a fairly easy DIY, yeh?

Also, got a price on tyres while I was there... stock staggered setup, in case anyone is looking
Bridge RE003 $1100 ($100 cashback)
Mich PSS $1490 (no sales at the moment )
Yoko V105 $980 (3 + 1 free)
Yoko ADO8R $1030 (3 + 1 free)
Price seems good for the V105s?? Anyone running the RE003... the guy seemed very keen to push these ones?

[ash335]

Hey vince, just looking at socks' thread regarding the control arm install... you mention the upper control arm bracket needed to be widened... how did you do this, and by how much?

[vtl]

The DIYs not too bad for M3 control arms. Its harder than it looks though.

No one seems to mention the short control arms require the subframe to be spreaded apart for the arms to fit. I spreaded the subframe with a large spanner (basically using them as a pair of large pliers), could probably also use a brake spreader tool or some nuts and bolts and threaded rod. The old arm has a lot of serrations which chew into the subframe to lock it in, the burrs need to be ground down to allow the new arm to slide in.

Ultimately M3 control arms on stock suspension doesn't give you much camber, I also knocked out the alignment pins and only got -1 degree on the fronts. I'd suggest fitting dinan camber plates at the same time, should be good for around 1.5-1.7 neg on stock suspension. Saves the outside edge of the front tyres from getting torn up.

Tyres I would go with AD08Rs if you plan on tracking it. If you start leaning on normal road tyres they usually just overheat and chunk up.

[Trev88]

Originally Posted by ash335

Small update...
Getting car prepped for track day next weekend

Had noticed a subtle vibration at speed (100km/h) a few weeks after getting alignment... had a 4 wheel balance completed at BobJ TM Nunawading (new store)... nice manager, helpful. Right rear 25g off... must have fallen off at some point. Can a pressure washer do this?

Anyways, while they were checking things out, they noticed a decent amount of lateral play in the front wheels... likely control arm bushings worn.
The balance seems to have fixed the vibration.
Was looking at the M3 upgrade kits... any difference BMW vs TRW?
Looks like a fairly easy DIY, yeh?

Also, got a price on tyres while I was there... stock staggered setup, in case anyone is looking
Bridge RE003 $1100 ($100 cashback)
Mich PSS $1490 (no sales at the moment )
Yoko V105 $980 (3 + 1 free)
Yoko ADO8R $1030 (3 + 1 free)
Price seems good for the V105s?? Anyone running the RE003... the guy seemed very keen to push these ones?

Where did you get those prices!! Please share

[ash335]

Originally Posted by Trev88

Where did you get those prices!! Please share

Originally Posted by ash335

BobJ TM Nunawading (new store)

Corner Maroondah Hwy and Springvale Road

[Trev88]

Originally Posted by ash335

Corner Maroondah Hwy and Springvale Road

What tyre setup did u get?

[ash335]

Originally Posted by vtl

The DIYs not too bad for M3 control arms. Its harder than it looks though.

No one seems to mention the short control arms require the subframe to be spreaded apart for the arms to fit. I spreaded the subframe with a large spanner (basically using them as a pair of large pliers), could probably also use a brake spreader tool or some nuts and bolts and threaded rod. The old arm has a lot of serrations which chew into the subframe to lock it in, the burrs need to be ground down to allow the new arm to slide in.

Ultimately M3 control arms on stock suspension doesn't give you much camber, I also knocked out the alignment pins and only got -1 degree on the fronts. I'd suggest fitting dinan camber plates at the same time, should be good for around 1.5-1.7 neg on stock suspension. Saves the outside edge of the front tyres from getting torn up.

Tyres I would go with AD08Rs if you plan on tracking it. If you start leaning on normal road tyres they usually just overheat and chunk up.

Thanks for the info.

I had a look at one of the American DIY's http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=788761... he only needed to file back the burrs... spreading it wouldn't weaken the metal on the subframe would it?

Regarding the dinan camber plate... if I am going to upgrade to coilovers... would I still need this?

Looks like AD08R is the way to go. How many km's did you get out of yours?

[ash335]

Originally Posted by Trev88

What tyre setup did u get?

I have not yet got the tyres. Discounts are on until end of August according to the manager.
My tyres are the stock 18" staggered setup.
225/40R18 and 255/35R18 i think.

[ash335]

Also, has anyone replaced the tie rods for the Meyle HD ones? Seem to get good reviews, only any extra $100... preventative maintenance or money better spent elsewhere?

[vtl]

Got around 20k on the AD08Rs, had 3 track days on them. Yeah not great tyre wear lol. Yet mines a daily driver and I still went for them again.

Spreading the subframe shouldn't weaken it, its definitely required you'll see the gap is nowhere near large enough.

Upgrading to coilovers you will most likely still need a camber plate. Most coilovers retain the stock strut mounts. Theres only a few with integrated camber plates: BC BR coilovers, KW clubsports are a couple that include them

Tie rods I wouldnt bother upgrading them unless they are clunking.

[ash335]

Originally Posted by vtl

Got around 20k on the AD08Rs, had 3 track days on them. Yeah not great tyre wear lol. Yet mines a daily driver and I still went for them again.

Spreading the subframe shouldn't weaken it, its definitely required you'll see the gap is nowhere near large enough.

Upgrading to coilovers you will most likely still need a camber plate. Most coilovers retain the stock strut mounts. Theres only a few with integrated camber plates: BC BR coilovers, KW clubsports are a couple that include them

Tie rods I wouldnt bother upgrading them unless they are clunking.

Thanks for that.

I think I might do things in the following order...
1. Front M3 control arms
2. AD08R's and Nolathane subframe bushings
3. Coilovers +/- Camber plate

Now the big question is in regards to what coilovers...
Seem to be a lot of love for the KW V2's (>$2k), BC BR's ($1.4k)... and then theres the B12(~$1k)/B14/B16 kit.
Wouldn't mind input in regards to which one to get...
I'm not that fussed about the ride height aspect of things... more interested in optimal handling for track use... at a reasonable cost.
B12's seem to be the most economical... but I noticed on vince's writeup, the main reason for choosing this over others.. was related to it needing to be ok for primarily DD use.
There seems to be a bit more negative reactions to the BC BR... though not sure on the accuracy of these. Camber plate and damping adjustement included... which is nice. Comparable price to the B12 kit if you include the DINAN camber plate.

Also out of interest... anyone done the rear M3 control arm upgrade notice a significant difference? The one good writeup I could find online the guy had done the subframe bushings at the same time... so not sure which one was responsible for the improvement.

[NeT335]

If you are going to do coilovers I suggest spending the money and getting KW v2. You can't go wrong with KW end of the day

Don't get BC they usually have problems from what I seen

[vtl]

Good mod list, I'd personally do the subframe bushes first

All of the systems you've mentioned are good. Probably I'd lean towards the KW V2 or Bilstein B16 (although that's more comparable to a V3)

BCs its a bit hit and miss whether you'll get clunking, not sure if its an installation issue where something wasn't torqued to spec. I know most mechanics will probably just use an impact on everything.

Rear arm upgrades I'd only buy the M3 guide rod and get upgraded toe arms. Theres a lot of misinformation from vendors saying the stock steel arms bend and flex which is utter garbage. You'd only upgrade the arms to replace the rubber bushings with ball joints, only the guide rod in the M3 has an extra ball joint vs the stock setup. M3 toe arms are not compatible

I am investigating upgrading the rubber bushes in the stock toe arms with ball joints, should be a nice and cheap upgrade vs some of the aftermarket ones which can potentially clunk after a while.

Originally Posted by ash335

Thanks for that.

I think I might do things in the following order...
1. Front M3 control arms
2. AD08R's and Nolathane subframe bushings
3. Coilovers +/- Camber plate

Now the big question is in regards to what coilovers...
Seem to be a lot of love for the KW V2's (>$2k), BC BR's ($1.4k)... and then theres the B12(~$1k)/B14/B16 kit.
Wouldn't mind input in regards to which one to get...
I'm not that fussed about the ride height aspect of things... more interested in optimal handling for track use... at a reasonable cost.
B12's seem to be the most economical... but I noticed on vince's writeup, the main reason for choosing this over others.. was related to it needing to be ok for primarily DD use.
There seems to be a bit more negative reactions to the BC BR... though not sure on the accuracy of these. Camber plate and damping adjustement included... which is nice. Comparable price to the B12 kit if you include the DINAN camber plate.

Also out of interest... anyone done the rear M3 control arm upgrade notice a significant difference? The one good writeup I could find online the guy had done the subframe bushings at the same time... so not sure which one was responsible for the improvement.

[DR-JEKL]

FWIW I have BC BR's and they're great so far. Really impressed with the ride quality, and no noises (yet!)

I've had 2 x bilstein setups in the past, and on both occasions they leaked after the warranty period had just expired.

KW is what BMW use for their GTS model cars, and they seem very reliable!

I wanted ohlin DFV's but they dont come with mounts (extra $500 or so for the vorschlag mounts) when I was doing a rather big chassis mods with new rim and tyres also ($15-20k) I ran outta $!!

[Socket]

Originally Posted by ash335

Thanks for that.

I think I might do things in the following order...
1. Front M3 control arms
2. AD08R's and Nolathane subframe bushings
3. Coilovers +/- Camber plate

Now the big question is in regards to what coilovers...
Seem to be a lot of love for the KW V2's (>$2k), BC BR's ($1.4k)... and then theres the B12(~$1k)/B14/B16 kit.
Wouldn't mind input in regards to which one to get...
I'm not that fussed about the ride height aspect of things... more interested in optimal handling for track use... at a reasonable cost.
B12's seem to be the most economical... but I noticed on vince's writeup, the main reason for choosing this over others.. was related to it needing to be ok for primarily DD use.
There seems to be a bit more negative reactions to the BC BR... though not sure on the accuracy of these. Camber plate and damping adjustement included... which is nice. Comparable price to the B12 kit if you include the DINAN camber plate.

Also out of interest... anyone done the rear M3 control arm upgrade notice a significant difference? The one good writeup I could find online the guy had done the subframe bushings at the same time... so not sure which one was responsible for the improvement.

Yep Ive done the M3 control arm upgrade with the Dinan camber plates. Made a big different to the steering response, but not sure of it was the arms or plates that made the biggest difference as they were fitted at the same time

[Socket]

Originally Posted by DR-JEKL

FWIW I have BC BR's and they're great so far. Really impressed with the ride quality, and no noises (yet!)

I've had 2 x bilstein setups in the past, and on both occasions they leaked after the warranty period had just expired.

KW is what BMW use for their GTS model cars, and they seem very reliable!

I wanted ohlin DFV's but they dont come with mounts (extra $500 or so for the vorschlag mounts) when I was doing a rather big chassis mods with new rim and tyres also ($15-20k) I ran outta $!!

$15-$20K

[DR-JEKL]

Originally Posted by Socket

$15-$20K

Yeah kinda adds up quick... by memory rims and tyres were around $3.5K, M3 driveline $6k, coilovers $1200, various bits and pieces new brake pads m3 cross drilled rotors pad sensors, m3 headlight sensor arms, m3 strut brace $1000 ish, install by advan $3800 and I'm sure maybe a few more things I've forgotten like the diff fluid $180, brake fluid, brake lines etc etc

[Socket]

Originally Posted by DR-JEKL

Yeah kinda adds up quick... by memory rims and tyres were around $3.5K, M3 driveline $6k, coilovers $1200, various bits and pieces new brake pads m3 cross drilled rotors pad sensors, m3 headlight sensor arms, m3 strut brace $1000 ish, install by advan $3800 and I'm sure maybe a few more things I've forgotten like the diff fluid $180, brake fluid, brake lines etc etc

Holy smokes batman

[CashedUpBogan]

Originally Posted by DR-JEKL

FWIW I have BC BR's and they're great so far. Really impressed with the ride quality, and no noises (yet!)

I've had 2 x bilstein setups in the past, and on both occasions they leaked after the warranty period had just expired.

KW is what BMW use for their GTS model cars, and they seem very reliable!

I wanted ohlin DFV's but they dont come with mounts (extra $500 or so for the vorschlag mounts) when I was doing a rather big chassis mods with new rim and tyres also ($15-20k) I ran outta $!!

should have bought an M3 and chucked an N54 in it loll

[waterbottle1]

Nice! platinum bronze,
your car looks exactly like mine did
enjoy modddddding