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      09-11-2016, 04:50 AM   #1
rooringhusky
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Differential Bushing Replacement Tools? If anyone has experience please help!

Looking to Replace differential bushings on my 2007 BMW 335i E92 Coupe. I already have the bushings but am unable to locate and confirm the correct tools for the job. If there is anyone that can help it would be greatly appreciated.

Differential Bushings:

Small Front Bushings (Quantity x2)
Large Rear Bushings (Quantity x1)

I believe I found a tool that may work for the Small Front Bushings (Quantity x2) here: https://www.amazon.com/Axle-Bush-Bus.../dp/B01E85H3Z2 (can be found cheaper elsewhere)

In the description is says: "Removal and installation of rear axle differential rubber bearings on: 1-Series:E81 and E87 3-Series:E36, E46, E83, E90, E91, E92 and E93 5-Series: E60 and E61 6-Series: E63 and E64 7-Series: E38, E65, E66 and E67 8-Series: E31 Z4: E85 and E86 MINI Cooper S: R53"

If this is the case then it may work for the Small Front Bushings, but I am still unsure what to do in regards to tools for the Larger bushing. If there is anyone that has experience and background, or can maybe guide me it would be appreciated in advance. Thanks!

P.S. I am not looking to make my own tools with washers etc. I have done this in the past and it generally requires more time and can damage the bushings during install. Not only that I am looking for a tool that I can use without headache anytime I need or want to do this in the future. Hope you understand
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      09-12-2016, 01:03 PM   #2
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I used a combination of the subframe bushing tool from HP Autowerks and some smaller washers, a threaded rod, and a hole saw for the small bushings. All of those bushings came out incredibly easily for me. If you're looking for a tool to use many times in the future I'm sure the one you linked can work
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      09-13-2016, 03:20 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by madmantwo View Post
I used a combination of the subframe bushing tool from HP Autowerks and some smaller washers, a threaded rod, and a hole saw for the small bushings. All of those bushings came out incredibly easily for me. If you're looking for a tool to use many times in the future I'm sure the one you linked can work
Thanks for the reply madmantwo, definitely appreciated

I have Subframe Bushings tools I have access too, so maybe I can play with those to rig something up if needed. I will likely pull the trigger on the tool set I linked so I hope those help with the front ones. Still up in the air on the rear differential bushing. Did you happen to swap that one out as well?
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      09-13-2016, 01:33 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rooringhusky View Post
Thanks for the reply madmantwo, definitely appreciated

I have Subframe Bushings tools I have access too, so maybe I can play with those to rig something up if needed. I will likely pull the trigger on the tool set I linked so I hope those help with the front ones. Still up in the air on the rear differential bushing. Did you happen to swap that one out as well?
Yeah I swapped all three, they honestly were super easy to press out. That's where the subframe bushing tool really came in handy, because I was able to use the big metal cup it comes with to press them out. It was far too big, but enough of it was still centered over the axle carrier that it worked
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      09-13-2016, 01:48 PM   #5
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rooringhusky perhaps I can persuade you to get my lockdown kit. BNIB never got a chance to install it and I need to fund some repairs. Unfortunately...
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1298304 It would further stiffen up the rear and eliminate wheel hops.
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      09-13-2016, 07:07 PM   #6
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rooringhusky perhaps I can persuade you to get my lockdown kit. BNIB never got a chance to install it and I need to fund some repairs. Unfortunately...
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1298304 It would further stiffen up the rear and eliminate wheel hops.
There isn't enough information in that thread. Is it a Defiv brand Lockdown kit? If so I will take it
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      09-13-2016, 08:54 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rooringhusky View Post
There isn't enough information in that thread. Is it a Defiv brand Lockdown kit? If so I will take it
No, is VWETISH. I got it from n54tech.com
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      09-13-2016, 10:58 PM   #8
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The bushing tools are not rocket science. I spent about 20 minutes at the hardware store and selected the appropriate threaded rod, washers and abs plumbing fitting joints. Bushings come out waaaaaaaaay easier the the sub bushings.

Just an FYI if you want to reconsider a DIY tool project.

The hardest part by far was getting diff back in and up into place. Not a lot of room under jackstands
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      09-14-2016, 03:30 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by avocet View Post
The bushing tools are not rocket science. I spent about 20 minutes at the hardware store and selected the appropriate threaded rod, washers and abs plumbing fitting joints. Bushings come out waaaaaaaaay easier the the sub bushings.

Just an FYI if you want to reconsider a DIY tool project.

The hardest part by far was getting diff back in and up into place. Not a lot of room under jackstands
Definitely reconsidering as the pumpkin back into place is the easy part for me haha. Going to go source the parts and make it happen. That plumber fitting joint is key which I thought may be difficult to find but seems easy. Let's see what I come up with. Thanks for the help and suggestions.

I would still prefer a quality professional tool for repeat use though. So if anyone comes up with anything in that regard.
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      09-17-2016, 03:38 PM   #10
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I just did mine on Thursday. took 5 min. used a wheel bearing from harbor freight to do the big one (had it lying around) but i can be done with a combination of a metal cup and a few big washers and a long bolt and nuts.

the smaller bushings bought a metal cup with 1.8-2 inch ID at home depo (forgot the exact size and combination of nuts and a long bolt.

Used whiteline bushings so didn't have to press anything in.
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      09-21-2016, 05:20 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dreyo27 View Post
I just did mine on Thursday. took 5 min. used a wheel bearing from harbor freight to do the big one (had it lying around) but i can be done with a combination of a metal cup and a few big washers and a long bolt and nuts.

the smaller bushings bought a metal cup with 1.8-2 inch ID at home depo (forgot the exact size and combination of nuts and a long bolt.

Used whiteline bushings so didn't have to press anything in.
Removing seems relatively easy, I guess I'm more worried about pressing them in with the cheaper generic tools. Going to give this a try in the next 3-4 weeks. we will see how it goes!

Thank you for the responses guys - you have been a ton of help
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      10-04-2016, 07:29 PM   #12
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are you replacing them with OEM bushings?
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      10-05-2016, 03:20 AM   #13
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Yeah replacing the 1x Large Bushings with OEM, and the 2x Smaller Bushings with M3
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      07-05-2017, 10:35 AM   #14
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Bringing back an old crusty one to life. I am familiar with using the HP Autosport tool set. I have it out on rental still. I have already done all of the sub frame bushings. I need to do the 3 differential bushings now. By the way, I have the VWetish lockdown kit too. Its going in along with the powerflex purples.

I will take advice given above to use some of the HPA kit but i need to get a smaller threaded rod. It looks like i need 7/16" threaded rod (diam=.437") as the front bushings use an M12 screw (diam=0.472"). Is that what others have used?

I have a more fundamental question. Can I attempt to drop the differential without disconnecting the driveshaft and output shafts? I did a diff drop in February and already went through this regamarole. Yes, I am a dumb a$$ for not changing the bushings while the diff was completely out. I did the Wavetrac LSD if some of you all recall. I just hadn't done the home work for all of the bushings and knew i would be doing the whole enchilada M3 links/sub frame bushings/ M3 sway bar/ aftermarket toe links/etc in the coming months.

I have searched a little so likely it's in here somewhere. thanks

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      07-05-2017, 11:00 AM   #15
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BB_cuda The prop shaft has a U-joint by the central bearing carrier. If you disconnect the diff bushings it will drop to a certain degree but enough so you can work on the bushings. You will need to remove the aluminum cover and the exhaust will have to hang as well. If you are working on a lift have transmission jack ready.
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      07-05-2017, 11:11 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by feuer View Post
BB_cuda The prop shaft has a U-joint by the central bearing carrier. If you disconnect the diff bushings it will drop to a certain degree but enough so you can work on the bushings. You will need to remove the aluminum cover and the exhaust will have to hang as well. If you are working on a lift have transmission jack ready.
Feuer, whole exhaust has been down for the earlier sub frame drop so that is n't an issue. Heat shield is already off as well. Yes sir, I have a trans jack. Same one that i borrowed for earlier diff swap. I found a 3-1/2 hole saw from decade ago home project. It looks about right for rear bushing. I only need to find a solution for front bushing cup. The power flex look like they will go in very easily. Front ones are 2 piece and the back one only has one lip.

Thanks, Feuer! Going underneath with trans jack rigging commencing now.
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      07-05-2017, 04:17 PM   #17
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First of all, the differential drop was super simple. Its down about 6 to 8". I got the 7/16" threaded rod from h/w store with appropriate washers. I bought a 2-1/2" diameter hole saw for front bushing "cup". I already have a 3-1/2" hole saw from a home project. This is the cup for the aft bushing. The aft bushing is where i have started and i squirted the rubber bushing with armour-all. It moved pretty good for a while up to a point.

Okay. I've broken the 7/16-14 threaded rod twice now. Bushing is sticking out back of frame about 1.5". I've got about another 1" to go. I'm going back to h/w store to get 9/16" threaded rod. I'm using an HPA large washer pushing on forward side of bushing. I'm wondering if it is possibly hanging up on the bottom edge of frame. What I mean is there is a gap in the frame where the front and back portion of bore meet. I think maybe the washer is slipping down and hanging up on that aft lip of the bore. I will also switch to a smaller diameter pushing washer in case the lip hangup is only issue. I used normal motor oil on the threaded rod. Maybe i need to use axle grease. Thoughts on the threading lube (or anything else for that matter)?

That HPA washer is just a little smaller than the bushing.

Last edited by BB_cuda; 07-05-2017 at 04:27 PM..
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      07-05-2017, 04:59 PM   #18
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Smaller washer would would work better because would eliminate possibility for washer to hang up and also for the bushing to flex which will essentially pull in on sidewalls. You can also torch it, or cut the middle of it with cable or blade, similar to how they cut glue on windshields.
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      07-05-2017, 07:16 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by feuer View Post
Smaller washer would would work better because would eliminate possibility for washer to hang up and also for the bushing to flex which will essentially pull in on sidewalls. You can also torch it, or cut the middle of it with cable or blade, similar to how they cut glue on windshields.
Sorry to keep being a pest. What about the threading lube? Motor oil, gear lube (left over from diff job, Motul 75w-90), or normal axel grease? thanks

Smaller washer is in the rig now and i went with axle grease. It seems hard to turn too early. I'm scared it's going to break again for bind up reasons.
EDIT: I got the rear bushing out finally. The cup i was using was too shallow. So of course the rod will start to bind up and deform. I put deeper cup from HPA tool set and cut a 10" long 1/2-13 threaded rod and used motor oil on the threads. Came out real quick. Rookie mistake is my call. Going after front bushings now. Using a smaller hole saw and will insure the cup is deep enough before proceeding.

Last edited by BB_cuda; 07-05-2017 at 09:33 PM..
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      07-07-2017, 11:19 PM   #20
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Front bushings came out with ease. A 2-3/8" hole saw was the receiver cup. 7/16-20 threaded rod cut to about 8" long. You will need (3) nuts as you lock 2 together at the end opposite the receiver cup. I found that the bearing from the HPA kit was invaluable to make the nut on the cup end not get bound up.
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      08-15-2020, 10:11 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BB_cuda View Post
Front bushings came out with ease. A 2-3/8" hole saw was the receiver cup. 7/16-20 threaded rod cut to about 8" long. You will need (3) nuts as you lock 2 together at the end opposite the receiver cup. I found that the bearing from the HPA kit was invaluable to make the nut on the cup end not get bound up.
I need to do this job now. If you don't mind can you give exact info as to the tools I need to put together?
It seems holesaw needs to be deep? I guess 2 holesaws? What size holessaws and what size rods for front and rear, and washers?
Differntial lowering w/o unbolting from axles?
There needs be DIY for this job...thanks.
P.S. I don't have HPA bearing stuff.
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      08-16-2020, 10:26 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rooringhusky View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by avocet View Post
The bushing tools are not rocket science. I spent about 20 minutes at the hardware store and selected the appropriate threaded rod, washers and abs plumbing fitting joints. Bushings come out waaaaaaaaay easier the the sub bushings.

Just an FYI if you want to reconsider a DIY tool project.

The hardest part by far was getting diff back in and up into place. Not a lot of room under jackstands
Definitely reconsidering as the pumpkin back into place is the easy part for me haha. Going to go source the parts and make it happen. That plumber fitting joint is key which I thought may be difficult to find but seems easy. Let's see what I come up with. Thanks for the help and suggestions.

I would still prefer a quality professional tool for repeat use though. So if anyone comes up with anything in that regard.
Black pipe, grade 8 bolts, nuts & washers
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