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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > Suspension | Brakes | Chassis > Busted bolt for sway bar - What to do?



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      05-27-2014, 04:33 PM   #23
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Tap?

I do have a tap set? Subframe is aluminum. Think this would provide sufficient support?
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Last edited by dbjb; 05-27-2014 at 04:38 PM..
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      05-27-2014, 04:51 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by approximate View Post
the only cheap solution!
or u replace the whole front axle support...

u should get these bolts (m8 thread) in every good hardware store for a few cents.

for the installation, u need special tool. but a metalworking garage should have one of these.

Does this tool/rivet work solely from the bottom? Must I gain access from top?
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      05-27-2014, 04:57 PM   #25
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You could drill the bolt out and insert one of these blindrivets:
http://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-13...718175003.aspx
They are used to fix a x-brace on the BMW E36 convertible models.
You can then use a regular screw to fix it.
Cheapest solution and no special tools needed.
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      05-27-2014, 05:47 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by serotoninsteve View Post
You could drill the bolt out and insert one of these blindrivets:
http://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-13...718175003.aspx
They are used to fix a x-brace on the BMW E36 convertible models.
You can then use a regular screw to fix it.
Cheapest solution and no special tools needed.
Maybe that's my solve?! Been reading some more through link below. I'd love to source the part locally!

http://www.understeer.com/xbrace.shtml
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      05-27-2014, 06:09 PM   #27
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Here'a s good article too:
http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/tech...66-X-Brace.htm
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      05-27-2014, 06:17 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dbjb View Post
Maybe that's my solve?! Been reading some more through link below. I'd love to source the part locally!

http://www.understeer.com/xbrace.shtml
Easiest is to order from your BMW dealer.
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      05-27-2014, 06:38 PM   #29
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try hitting the broken stud with a hammer and knocking it out the top. if the stud can get out the top you can use a blind fastener like approximate posted.

I figure it is going to look something like this:



ps- pics say a thousand words.
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      05-27-2014, 06:49 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FCobra94 View Post
Even with that special tool, you still need a lot of room/access to the top of the stud itself. The top piece of the subframe for this stud location makes this an impossible solution IMO.
i have done this with that tool! There is enough room to work, if you remove the complete swaybar.
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      05-27-2014, 07:14 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by avocet View Post
try hitting the broken stud with a hammer and knocking it out the top. if the stud can get out the top you can use a blind fastener like approximate posted.

I figure it is going to look something like this:



ps- pics say a thousand words.
Unless that new stud is made out of Play-Doh, it's not gonna happen.
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      05-27-2014, 07:38 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by avocet View Post
try hitting the broken stud with a hammer and knocking it out the top. if the stud can get out the top you can use a blind fastener like approximate posted.

I figure it is going to look something like this:



ps- pics say a thousand words.
Few blows with a punch and mallet gave me the images below. Local dealership has 1 blind rivet in stock. Going to buy it along with some locktite. Still unsure how it works and what "tool" is necessary but perhaps it'll make more sense once I have it.
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      05-27-2014, 07:39 PM   #33
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Clean break too...
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      05-28-2014, 01:10 AM   #34
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Many thanks to you all!!

Just finished the repair after picking up the last two parts at my local dealership. Need to shower so I'll let the images tell the story.
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      05-28-2014, 04:20 AM   #35
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Professional repair, great job!
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      05-28-2014, 04:38 AM   #36
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nice job!
at first i also wanted to repair it with one of these rivet nuts, but decided me for the oem look.
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      05-28-2014, 08:21 AM   #37
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Awesome work dude! Great job.
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      05-28-2014, 03:25 PM   #38
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Thanks all! It's threads like this that keeps me coming back to the forum. Very supportive and very much appreciated!

Now, I can corner fast again!
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      05-28-2014, 04:20 PM   #39
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I think this would make a good DIY thread in that forum. This is a great repair!! I think the self swaging stud would have worked as well.
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      05-28-2014, 05:48 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwzimm View Post
I think this would make a good DIY thread in that forum. This is a great repair!! I think the self swaging stud would have worked as well.
And if you are set on a stud... Just get a metric stud the correct length and use high strength loctite into the insert... And voilą!

Am pretty sure ackland graingers has metric double ended studs that would work.
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      07-09-2015, 02:32 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dbjb View Post
Many thanks to you all!!

Just finished the repair after picking up the last two parts at my local dealership. Need to shower so I'll let the images tell the story.
I had the exact same stud break off and ordered the parts. Any idea how much torque you need for the blind rivet and the new bolt ?
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      03-01-2017, 10:59 AM   #42
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I just had this problem myself. That blind nut seems like a really elegant, professional-looking solution.

That said, I just ran into this video while looking for a solution for this and thought folks that had/are having this problem would be interested. Apparently there are other companies than this brand that have a product like this now, but this is the first I'd seen of it.

Full disclosure: I don't work or own any part of this company or any other that does this to my knowledge, and frankly had never even seen anything like this before.



I'm thinking about calling around to some metal work shops in the area to see if they have anything like this. (Maybe after I find some shear-strength specs, which I haven't yet -- but that video sure does seem to make it look sufficient.) What do you guys think?

Edit: just checked -- that particular tool will specifically do studs up to 5/16"/M8, which is exactly the size of that bushing mount stud that sheared off. I've seen other guns like it, but they all seem to just do thin 2/3mm pins, mostly to pull on for body work.

Edit 2: Since now it sounds like I'm plugging that original machine in the video, and I *hate* plugs masquerading as real posts, I found another machine that can do the same (including up to M8):


Last edited by slinkygn; 03-01-2017 at 11:10 AM..
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      03-09-2017, 11:17 PM   #43
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So it seems like the hardest part of this is getting the remainder of the stud out... at least it's proving that way for me, anyway :/ It looks like this was done without actually removing the subframe, right? I can't seem to get enough force behind the punch upside-down to get that sucker off. It's driving me bonkers! Any suggestions?
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      07-04-2017, 10:41 PM   #44
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I also recently snapped one of these off. This thread looks like a lifesaver, but I had one question. What size is the Rivet Nut?
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