[E92_James]

This is my audio system so far (Started with base 6 speaker audio):

CIC coded to HiFi
JL Cleansweep
Pioneer GM-DX874 (100W RMS x4 @ 4 ohms)
1 Channel Amp + Alpine Type R 1242D 12" Subwoofer
Individual Audio Speakers + Tweeters (4x front and back, also cut out tweeter hole in rear door panels for the rear individual audio tweeters)
Individual Audio OEM crossovers for front
2 Channel Amp + Logic 7/HK Underseat Woofers
Technic Harness 4/4

I recently put in the Logic 7 underseats again now that I jumpered the OEM connections so I don't lose sound, then connected the underseats directly to the 2 channel amp so now the fronts and underseats are no longer connected to eachother.. I have a few things to say, I'm looking for midbass and it definitely fills it but it doesn't sound that great, when the IA speakers and tweeters were the only ones playing with the 12" sub in the trunk it sounded a lot clearer. So I heard the XE200s are the way to go.

My issue is I looked at the impedance on the website for the XE200s and it says 6 ohms.. my 2 channel amp doesn't even have a power rating for 6 ohms and I don't think it would be that great at 6 ohms anyway.. However, I saw when I searched for answers that some people said they had 4 ohm XE200s... did they actually have a 4 ohm back in the day or was the impedance always 6? What a strange impedance.

That's my first thing. Secondly, my Pioneer 4 channel is slightly defective (Constantly going into protect mode when I cold start, but calms down when I rev over 2K RPM, in the cold temperatures it does it for 30 Minutes sometimes.., my 1 channel doesn't behave like this and it's grounded at the same spot).. same with my 2 channel it doesn't behave like that, not a big deal though because

I'm planning on adding an Audiocontrol 6 Channel to replace the 4 channel and 2 channel (At first I was debating on retrofitting M3 rear parcel shelf and add the rear individual audio speakers and then I'd have 6 mids playing, however, 4 in the front and the back are deafeningly loud as it is. (Surprised they hold up to this power) so I was thinking of using channels 5 and 6 to just power the underseat subs.

My individual audio speakers overpower my trunk sub with how powerful they are, I'm shocked. However, I've been looking for a speaker that will handle 100W RMS and stay crystal clear. My trunk sub is being pushed with 500w RMS, I might have to do something about that later.. but my main question is about the XE200s.

Besides that, I'm planning on adding that Audiocontrol 6 channel, removing the 4 channel and 2 channel, AND removing the JL Cleansweep. My cleansweep has been making an annoying hiss now and I really dislike analog signals anyway.. so what really made me happy was..

I have a spare MOST connector in the trunk (From when I swapped my TCU+MULF for a Combox), get what i'm coming at now? I want to get a mObridge, like a DA3 with a built in DSP, and connect it via MOST and recode my CIC to HK so it will start spitting audio through MOST. If I did this I could play with the equalizer on the CIC and I think mobridge says that it would take effect on the DA3 which is cool. Another reason why I need to do this is because the cleansweep only outputs 4 RCAs, how is that going to work with a 6 channel? Regardless I want the cleansweep gone, it hisses and I feel like it's barely beneficial.

When searching for a DA3 however, I can't find a single one for sale, not on any website. Trying to search about it for E9X specific installs I may have found one or two posts about it but that's about it. The more expensive route is getting a bit DMI and a separate DSP but I really want to keep it simple with the DA3.

Excuse me for being all over the place, main thing is does anybody know if the impedance of the XE200s were always 6 ohm? I cannot find any 4 ohm XE200s even though they have been mentioned on posts before

[ctuna]

The resistance measurement of the XE200's doesn't matter.
It's the impedence that matter's .(there is only one model) They only make them in one
impedence and quite few people here that have them totaly Rave
about them me included.
I have those and they are exquisite under seats running on xd 600/6
which is 75 watts at 4 ohms and 100 at 2 ohms.

It seems like you are trying to use a lot of old stuff and patch it together.

Mobridge now make a plug an play amp with DSP that accepts the
Fiber Optics and is essentially a drop in replacement for a Logic 7 amp
with better power. Although if you are coded to Hi Fi you don't need most of
and amp and the Head Unit is not set up to Run a Most Amp anyway.
So I don't know why you are talking about Most.
Unless you want to reprogram the Head Unit again to Logic 7
But you don't have the wiring for Logic 7 so I don't think you should be looking
at this at all.

Rear Seat speakers don't contribute that much to the overall sound.
You would be better of getting better front door speakers to match the quality
of the Jehnerts.

If you have a CIC coded to Hi Fi you can throw the JL cleansweep away.
The only reason to have a cleansweep was to flatten the EQ curve on the
BASE Radio or Idrive but you say you have reprogrammed it to Hi Fi .

There are some basic things you don't seem to understand or are unable to communicate.
A Hi Fi system is a all analog doesn't use Most and needs
no Clean sweep.
Resistance is not the same a Impedance.

I would be considering a combination DSP/Amp if I were doing it again from Audiotech Fisher Helix Match, Mosconi

The reason you have hiss is not because analog system's have hiss it's because you have bad connection's that are
not adjusted properly and or have ultra cheap components. You have what I would call a Frankenstein system.

[E92_James]

Originally Posted by ctuna

The resistance measurement of the XE200's doesn't matter.
It's the impedence that matter's .(there is only one model) They only make them in one
impedence and quite few people here that have them totaly Rave
about them me included.
I have those and they are exquisite under seats running on xd 600/6
which is 75 watts at 4 ohms and 100 at 2 ohms.

It seems like you are trying to use a lot of old stuff and patch it together.

Mobridge now make a plug an play amp with DSP that accepts the
Fiber Optics and is essentially a drop in replacement for a Logic 7 amp
with better power. Although if you are coded to Hi Fi you don't need most of
and amp and the Head Unit is not set up to Run a Most Amp anyway.
So I don't know why you are talking about Most.
Unless you want to reprogram the Head Unit again to Logic 7
But you don't have the wiring for Logic 7 so I don't think you should be looking
at this at all.

Rear Seat speakers don't contribute that much to the overall sound.
You would be better of getting better front door speakers to match the quality
of the Jehnerts.

If you have a CIC coded to Hi Fi you can throw the JL cleansweep away.
The only reason to have a cleansweep was to flatten the EQ curve on the
BASE Radio or Idrive but you say you have reprogrammed it to Hi Fi .

There are some basic things you don't seem to understand or are unable to communicate.
A Hi Fi system is a all analog doesn't use Most and needs
no Clean sweep.
Resistance is not the same a Impedance.

I would be considering a combination DSP/Amp if I were doing it again from Audiotech Fisher Helix Match, Mosconi

The reason you have hiss is not because analog system's have hiss it's because you have bad connection's that are
not adjusted properly and or have ultra cheap components. You have what I would call a Frankenstein system.

No no, I think I worded it wrong, and missed a few details. Even though I recoded the head unit to HiFi, it sounded identical to how it did before as if it didn't work out, and I tried numerous times to recode it to HiFi, that's why I put the cleansweep just in case.

I have a fiber optics connector that's currently terminated that used to go into the MULF but since I got rid of the MULF+TCU and only have a Combox I have a spare fiber optics connector that's still active in the loop (I have an OEM piece connected to it to terminate it so it doesn't disrupt the loop). Even though I don't have wiring for Logic 7, I have the technic harness which I can still use for the outputs of the amp going to the speakers.

As for the underseat subs I wired them directly to the 2 channel amp I have so it doesn't matter about having wiring for those as I just connect them to any aftermarket amp.

What I'm trying to do is remove the 2 channel and 4 channel amp and replace it with a nice high quality Audiocontrol 6 channel. And I'm also trying to remove the cleansweep because it just flattens the EQ for me.

I don't care that much about the rear seats they're just there for fill that's why I decided against the rear parcel shelf speakers.

A few people went the route I was considering, recoding the head unit to Logic 7 so the sound goes through fiber optics, then using a mobridge DA3 to connect to the fiber optics and using it as a DSP. They have a new version of the DA3 called the DA-G2.PRO MOST25 which I could get.

On the other hand, trying to find a speaker that will handle high wattage to replace the individual audio speakers is hard considering I have an E92 so there's not a lot of space behind the door panels. What I mean by that is I want deafening loudness (which I currently got) but with more clarity.

I triple checked all my connections with everything and the hiss seems to come from the cleansweep, because when I ran the amps off a different head unit without the cleansweep the hiss was gone (There's not much to mess up with connections when you have a PNP harness going from the CIC to the cleansweep) and keep in mind I left all the connections for power and ground the same on the amps when I tested another head unit bypassing the cleansweep

I know the HiFi system uses analog, my stock system was the garbage Base audio which didn't have any connections in the trunk at all. I don't like the HiFi system BECAUSE it's analog and id much rather go digital especially since I have a spare fiber optics connector in the trunk which I could use, there are posts where people with base audio systems went this route and it worked out better for them.

Basically:

Remove 4 channel and 2 channel amp replaced by a higher quality 6 channel
Replace L7 underseats with XE200s
Remove cleansweep and replace with mobridge
Recode CIC to Logic 7 so I can use fiber optics rather than analog

When the mobridge (the one mentioned above) is connected to the fiber optics it has 10 RCA outputs which I can use to plug into the 6 channel and the 1 channel and still have left over

I do the see the amplifier you're talking about though.. the MOBRIDGE MOST25 8.1.1 AMP, and it looks like an insane amplifier, however, I cannot even find it for sale anywhere. If I got this amp it's basically solving a lot of my issues because then It would replace the 4 channel and 2 channel I have and it interfaces with the fiber optic cable I have, and I can connect the outputs to the harness I'm already using that goes to the speakers.

[ctuna]

(A few people went the route I was considering, recoding the head unit to Logic 7 so the sound goes through fiber optics, then using a mobridge DA3 to connect to the fiber optics and using it as a DSP. They have a new version of the DA3 called the DA-G2.PRO MOST25 which I could get.)

This is like using a sledge hammer to drive a roofing nail.
If you couldn't program your Head Unit for Hi Fi what makes you think
you can program it for Logic 7.
The Most Bus is a Loop active legs must be added to the Most Hub.
And any device added device that goes on it requires programming.
To do programming on the Most Bus for cars made after 3/07 it requires a
Icom cable not a K/D Can cable .

Are you using speaker out's or pre outs to feed your amps .
How did you adjust the gains?
Is it a way cheap amp?
This could be the cause of noise.

A lot of people think a Sub solves all problems .
If you add a sub it just means you have a Sub with the
same system. If you didn't like the sound of the system in the
first place chances are you won't like it after unless you are
a total bass head.

If you really want to go the Fiberoptic route I would call mobridge but it
means nothing if you can't reprogram your Head Unit .
Or maybe go aftermarket with a Head Unit to.

Did you calibrate the cleansweep and did you play with gains to balance things
out as far as noise and levels?

[E92_James]

Originally Posted by ctuna

(A few people went the route I was considering, recoding the head unit to Logic 7 so the sound goes through fiber optics, then using a mobridge DA3 to connect to the fiber optics and using it as a DSP. They have a new version of the DA3 called the DA-G2.PRO MOST25 which I could get.)

This is like using a sledge hammer to drive a roofing nail.
If you couldn't program your Head Unit for Hi Fi what makes you think
you can program it for Logic 7.
The Most Bus is a Loop active legs must be added to the Most Hub.
And any device added device that goes on it requires programming.
To do programming on the Most Bus for cars made after 3/07 it requires a
Icom cable not a K/D Can cable .

Are you using speaker out's or pre outs to feed your amps .
How did you adjust the gains?
Is it a way cheap amp?
This could be the cause of noise.

A lot of people think a Sub solves all problems .
If you add a sub it just means you have a Sub with the
same system. If you didn't like the sound of the system in the
first place chances are you won't like it after unless you are
a total bass head.

I paid $250 for my 4 channel amp so I wouldn't say it's very very cheap per se. However, my budget increased astronomically from when I installed this system, this was supposed to hold me over until I got a crazy amplifier, that mobridge amplifier you talked about seems like a good option and definitely not bad for $1200 considering it also has a DSP built in.

I programmed my CIC to Logic 7, and it started to output audio through fiber optics, and I was able to get that little equalizer menu and Logic 7 check box in the tone options, so clearly the CIC was holding that.

I'm using pre-outs from the cleansweep to the amps.
I noticed the 2 channel amp also has a hiss coming through the underseat subs so obviously it's not 1 amp, and the 2 channel amp is wired to a different part of the car than the 4 channel. Again, they didn't hiss when I ran them off a different source than going through the cleansweep.

I love my sub, it makes a lot of bass to the point where my mirrors are vibrating like no tomorrow!

Gains are all the way down on all my amps, that's the first thing I did. I would never run my amps on high level speaker outs.

Since the amps don't hiss when ran off a diffferent source I believe the cleansweep might be the culprit.. regardless, this system is a temporary setup (anything is better than that horrible base audio, and the alpine hifi)

I used to have Alpine HiFi and it was completely awful, couldn't handle it anymore. That mobridge amp definitely looks like a nice option, I left mobridge an email asking about certain questions about the amp/dsp if those numbers they display on their website is the legitimate RMS watts or some inflated peak number.

I also managed to code the CIC with $752 which is individual audio and that also worked

[ctuna]

Then you should be able to code 676 Hi Fi.
I would look at the 676 coding thread on the coding sub
forum if you are having trouble.

I have no complaint at all about the quality of the Head Unit output
using the stock Pro Head unit . Never had noise my gains are at about 11 oclock for the
under seats and nothing on the rears a little off nothing for the Morel Dotechs in the front doors.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...=jl+xd+600%2F6

subwoofer threads
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showpo...2&postcount=66
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...t=Ultimate+Sub
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...ight=subwoofer

https://www.diymobileaudio.com/threa...review.432510/

[E92_James]

Originally Posted by ctuna

Then you should be able to code 676 Hi Fi.
I would look at the 676 coding thread on the coding sub
forum if you are having trouble.

I have no complaint at all about the quality of the Head Unit output
using the stock Pro Head unit . Never had noise my gains are at about 11 oclock for the
under seats and nothing on the rears a little off nothing for the Morel Dotechs in the front doors.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...=jl+xd+600%2F6

subwoofer threads
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showpo...2&postcount=66
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...t=Ultimate+Sub
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...ight=subwoofer

https://www.diymobileaudio.com/threa...review.432510/

That's the issue even back when I had the Alpine HiFi kit, I coded the head unit numerous times to 676 HiFi. The one thing I looked out for was the gongs. The gongs stayed loud, and the sound quality didn't change one bit. I spent a few weeks constantly researching about this issue but found no solution, this has been an ongoing issue for me since 2019 for my head unit not coding to HiFi, and if it did code to HiFi, I didn't notice much of a difference, especially now... my gongs are ridiculously loud now, however, I'm pretty happy with my systems power - I was just riding and I had the volume cranked about 50-75% i'd say, and it got very very loud.. to the point where I squinted sometimes, definitely not good for the ears

As for the gains - I have everything to the absolute minimum for both fronts and rears, when I first installed the system and the gains were at approx 12 o clock, the hiss was so loud I was shocked at first!

Actually you know what! I noticed something, I used to have hiss from the Alpine HiFi kit as well! And that was a BMW OEM retrofit... I wonder if my CIC has problems? I totally forgot about that! That's how I knew if the Alpine HiFi kit was working back then, if the white noise was there

[bmw335ie90]

I had the same issue coding my CIC head unit to HIFI, it did not "seem" do anything noticeable. I ended up purchasing a HIFI CIC head unit and swapped that in and coding it to my VIN. I also noticed with this HIFI head unit the gongs were still "loud". It wasn't until i actually measured the sound with a decibel meter that I could notice a difference when I coded back and forth between base and hifi several times.

In short, what I'm saying is coding from BASE to HIFI doesn't drop the sound level a massive amount. The coding might actually be working correctly but you are expecting a massive change in sound level like I was. Based on my measurements it only reduced the sound output 30-40% which I could not even discern by ear.

Technic also did tell me that some head units cannot be coded to hifi, they are lacking the hardware inside. This could very well be the case for you. There are apps on the iphone which will crudely measure dB to verify the coding change.

[ctuna]

Alpine kit was a pretty weak patch used to bring a BASE system
up to hi fi and it didn't upgrade the under seats.
With the 676 option the output was essentially reduced from Head Unit speaker level voltage
to 5 volt differential pre out, another way of saying two signal non common
ground speaker outs. The amp you use needed to be capable of handling
this double ended signal and not the common single analog signal.
Also there was a run of Pro Radios that had noise problems.

Alpine kit was kind of a half assed fix and not to good.
If all the channels are running off the same amp with similar speakers
this shouldn't be and issue . (Gong levels)
There is some adjustments you can do to the gong level's through programming
and or certain menu's

[E92_James]

Originally Posted by ctuna

Alpine kit was a pretty weak patch used to bring a BASE system
up to hi fi and it didn't upgrade the under seats.
With the 676 option the output was essentially reduced from Head Unit speaker level voltage
to 5 volt differential pre out, another way of saying two signal non common
ground speaker outs. The amp you use needed to be capable of handling
this double ended signal and not the common single analog signal.
Also there was a run of Pro Radios that had noise problems.

Alpine kit was kind of a half assed fix and not to good.
If all the channels are running off the same amp with similar speakers
this shouldn't be and issue . (Gong levels)
There is some adjustments you can do to the gong level's through programming
and or certain menu's

Thankfully I threw the Alpine system in the garbage long ago, I've been running my current system since mid 2020, which it has been fine but I definitely want to clean things up a bit especially definitely upgrading the Logic 7 underseats to the XE200s.

As for cutting down on amps that mobridge definitely isn't a bad option since it has a built in DSP, though I'm still waiting on a response from them about the power numbers they have listed.. You said you had your speakers running 75W RMS correct?

Theoretically.. lets say that mobridge says their amp does 75W RMS... Do you think the drop from 100W RMS from my current amp to 75W is a big difference to notice in loudness?

As for the white noise/hiss, it's bearable.. I can only hear it if I hear absolutely nothing meaning windows up, car not moving, and radio not playing any music

[ctuna]

My XD 600/6 , which use to be the standard for a Hi Fi upgrade , has been in a long
time now . And I can destroy my Ears further than I want to with that setup.
I can turn it up to very loud volumes and it does not distort . The comparison between
Earthquakes and Jehnerts was made here many times. I can say they are Warm
and extremely accurate and not lacking in Bass but not true Subs. I am not a fan
of Subs or the kind of Music that people have large look at me Subs use.
Yet I can hear Bass better than ever with these.
I made the comparison between the stock high fi 8 inch and the Jehnerts when I did
the install . I can say the stock speaker were extremely muddy with questionable output
comparatively but that is with Hi Fi under seats . Don't have a real comparison for
Logic 7 or IA under seats.

The better amp manufacturer's state there power at a low total distortion.
One of the disappointing thing about the OEM BMW amps it they state max
power a 10 percent distortion. Some ot the cheaper amp manufacturers do this to.

[E92_James]

Originally Posted by ctuna

My XD 600/6 , which use to be the standard for a Hi Fi upgrade , has been in a long
time now . And I can destroy my Ears further than I want to with that setup.
I can turn it up to very loud volumes and it does not distort . The comparison between
Earthquakes and Jehnerts was made here many times. I can say they are Warm
and extremely accurate and not lacking in Bass but not true Subs. I am not a fan
of Subs or the kind of Music that people have large look at me Subs use.
Yet I can hear Bass better than ever with these.
I made the comparison between the stock high fi 8 inch and the Jehnerts when I did
the install . I can say the stock speaker were extremely muddy with questionable output
comparatively but that is with Hi Fi under seats . Don't have a real comparison for
Logic 7 or IA under seats.

The better amp manufacturer's state there power at a low total distortion.
One of the disappointing thing about the OEM BMW amps it they state max
power a 10 percent distortion. Some ot the cheaper amp manufacturers do this to.

I was considering getting the XD600/6v2 when I first started looking at replacement amps... depending what amp I choose I might also look into replacing the IA front mids and tweets with maybe a set of Morel Hybrid 402s, they seem great!

[mweisdorfer]

I'd power my system with 2 amps

1) JL Audio XD 800/8 v2
A) runs the front, center & rear door & shelf speakers; it will also run your underneath seat subs

2) JL Audio XD 1000/ 1 v2 = 600w RMS @ 4ohm
Runs your 12" trunk sub

Run your amps through your JBL Clean Sweep the speakers should be connected directly to the output of your amps only.

Just my 2 cents

[E92x7z]

ppl i have not bad many amp ... and all test in my E9x i am sure ... AB class amp need to frond and D class to underseat mids .. this is a mids for me not a subs
but if you need a sound need DSP ... aprox. Helix V Eight DSP MK2 and one monoblock to you 12 "
many times i use to my underseat speakers and 8 " sub to ZAPCO ST 4 D better choice to my install ...and all time disconnect rear side speakers .. they work only to media for PDC ... and i play direct in DSP DAP or BT


test amps to Front :
pionner PRS x 340
Vibe powerbox 65.4
BMW alpine kit
JL RD 400 /4
JL 300 v2
Zapco ST 4sq X
infinity kappa K5
focal Impulse
STEG K4 01

...i have this Cleansweep kit but it is so old ... aprox. this is a RCA line converter not more buy DSP or 4 chanel amp to Front line

[Emilime75]

Do you already have the Jenherts? If not, where do you plan on buying them from?