[336bimmer]

I bought this 335i last week and it did not run. I replaced the battery the next day after letting it charge over night and it still read 6v. Put the new battery in and tried to start the car again the car will turn over and crank but does not start. Another weird issue is all of the interior lights do not turn on, the dash lights do not turn on but the rpms go up slightly while cranking. Also the headlights main beam turns on but no high beam, no turn signals, no hazards, windows do not go down. Radio works and horn works as well. Checked basically all the fuses and they were all good. I don't have a clue as to what it could be. Any help would be appreciated thank you.

[nsjames]

you need ISTA and a bimmergeeks adapter in your life.

until you can talk to the bus connected modules, you're just guessing.

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by carlosvences1

I bought this 335i last week and it did not run. I replaced the battery the next day after letting it charge over night and it still read 6v. Put the new battery in and tried to start the car again the car will turn over and crank but does not start. Another weird issue is all of the interior lights do not turn on, the dash lights do not turn on but the rpms go up slightly while cranking. Also the headlights main beam turns on but no high beam, no turn signals, no hazards, windows do not go down. Radio works and horn works as well. Checked basically all the fuses and they were all good. I don't have a clue as to what it could be. Any help would be appreciated thank you.

You need a bmw specific code reader. Probably the best one on the market just from what I have seen is the beemer geeks app called pro tool. ISTA D & ISTA P are also great programs for those that are at least proficient with a windows based lab top. Mac users might have a difficult time installing a program like ISTA, unless they are good with both operating systems. The schwaben/ foxwell scan tool is a good solution as well, but it has its limitations. Carly has a lot of strengths, but it too has its limitations. Last, BMW Standard tools is also a great program, but you better know how to work with windows, or you will have a hard time installing it and getting it to work properly. The latest datens are also a huge plus.

Cheapest short term solution would be to buy a used schwaben/ foxwell scan tool on this forum.

If I had to guess, I'd say you have a bad alternator or starter solenoid. It could even be a bad fuel pump given you got a 1/2 engine light.

[N52bigblock]

Sounds like junction box electronics issue to me. Possibly the main power cable. Like others have said, it's just guessing unless you have ISTA or some sort of code reader to scan the car with.

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by carlosvences1

...335i...Put the new battery in and tried to start the car again the car will turn over and crank but does not start. Another weird issue is all of the interior lights do not turn on, the dash lights do not turn on but the rpms go up slightly while cranking. Also the headlights main beam turns on but no high beam, no turn signals, no hazards, windows do not go down. Radio works and horn works as well. Checked basically all the fuses and they were all good. I don't have a clue as to what it could be.

Hi Carlos, Welcome to the Forum! You're a brave man to buy a car that doesn't run.

Need to know Fault Codes, at least those in the Engine ECU (DME) as a first step -- see below.

If the car sputters with RPM fluctuating between starter RPM ~ 150 to ~500 when it tries to fire, and the half-engine light comes on, there are almost certainly Fault Codes saved in the DME (Engine ECU) memory. Those can be read with ANY scan tool, including a generic P-code reader.

However, from your description of the issues related to lights and windows, BOTH contolled by the FRM or Footwell Module, you need BMW-specific software or scan tool to read any FRM Fault Codes. So your first decision needs to be: WHAT scan tool do I have access to (your own, a friend's, etc.) and what scan tool do I need to buy, or do I just have it towed to a shop (MAJOR issue to tow a vehicle to a shop when you have NO clue about what's wrong with it, UNLESS you know/trust the shop). Any chance the vehicle was flood-damaged in the last year? Do you KNOW the history of the vehicle from a reliable source?

My suggestion would be to forget about the lights & windows for now, and just address the engine ECU (DME) issues, to try to get it running. That will at least increase your options in dealing with a shop related to the FRM issues. Also, as I said, you can get virtually any Fault code & Freeze Frame Data that is saved in the DME with a generic P-code reader, so check to see whose you can borrow, and post all the P-codes and Freeze Frame Data you can read. If you are NOT experienced with Fault Code & Freeze Frame Data reading, and don't have a friend who is, let us know and someone can walk you through what to do.

Of course if you have a laptop, then NOW is the time to spend $15 to $45 for a K+DCAN cable to connect the laptop to the OBD II socket at the left door, get a FREE INPA or ISTA download from BimmerGeeks site links, and then you can get ALL the codes in ALL ~ 20 modules in the vehicle, including the FRM, and be on your way to true DIY self-sufficiency.

Problem with going that route, it takes a LOT of time to learn how to use INPA or ISTA. They have a LOT of functionality beyond simply reading codes, as you can read many Parameters in real time, and do Activations to operate many components for testing, all from the computer keyboard.

Your decision on how to proceed:
(1) I would suggest finding someone local who can connect his scan tool and read all DME Fault codes and Freeze Frame Data, and supply that info to the Forum.

(2) If you have a scan tool yourself, you can post the make/model of that tool, and someone can help if you are NOT already proficient with it.

(3) If you want to get a scan tool or BMW-specific software yourself, let us know if you have a Windows 10 Laptop, an iphone, an Android device, etc., and someone can suggest options & cost.

(4) It would help us help YOU, if you would indicate (a) your general level of knowledge of the electrical and control module systems of your 335i, (b) whether you have a multimeter & know how to use it, (c) your general skill/ experience in reading circuit diagrams, and (d) the Year & Month of manufacture of your 2007 335i E90, as many electrical system changes were made effective 3/1/2007 (see bottom of driver door frame for plate with build date).

Here is a link to TIS Online Service Manual which is great for circuit diagrams, and contains a lot of basic service manual procedures for replacement of components, etc.:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/

Also, I attach a pdf that contains links to many helpful E90 References, including Bentley Manual, TIS, and BimmerGeeks for Cable & Downloads.

It would be a Major Mistake to try to diagnose and/or repair a 12-year old car that is NOT running, WITHOUT at least a ~$30 generic scan tool that you can learn how to use in an hour or two.

BTW, did you check to see if the battery you replaced was Type AGM or FLA (Flooded Lead-Acid/ conventional battery), and what the Ah or Reserve Capacity rating was? If you did NOT replace that battery with one of the same Type, and the same Ah rating, then you need to have the Power Management coding changed soon after you get the engine running. Improper settings/ coding will NOT prevent starting, but it can cause battery charging issues if NOT addressed soon after you get it running.

George

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by carlosvences1

I've got inpa and the other programs from bcables. com along with a snapon ethos+. With dis i was able to trigger the dash self test on and all the lights turned on so i know they work but something is preventing them to function

Hi Carlos,

Sorry I missed your last post before submitting my long reply to your first post. If you have INPA, then the place to start is doing the following, saving the screens in jpg format, and posting those screens here so we can see what the Fault Codes are & suggest next steps:

1) Save Screen(s) of "Functional Jobs", F4 Error Memory (Fehlerspeicher), which shows ALL Fault Codes in ALL modules.

2) Connect to DME (MSD80 for your N54 engine) and Save Screens for EACH fault code, WITH Freeze Frame Data (F4 | F1 | F3). Don't sweat the German, we can translate with Google Translate. We're looking for Fault Code DEFINITIONS, and Freeze Frame Data (mileage/km when fault saved, engine conditions such as RPM, Temp, etc.). Each detail page also tells you (in German) if the fault is currently present, and if it would set a warning lamp. Do NOT clear any codes until you have save ALL "Freeze Frame Data" screens for historical reference. I would suggest saving them all in the same "DME" folder with chron references such as 190214 for files saved today, but whatever works for you to find them later.

3) Save each screen by simply selecting PrintScreen, and then pasting that screen to "Paint" or other photo editor, and Save As jpg, attaching all jpg's to posts here.

Any questions or issues, let us know,
George

[M.chowdhury1]

Hi I had this same very issue last week on my e90 318d.

Started the car up let it run for 30 seconds and it died and since then hadn't started. It would crank but not start. I replaced the battery, camshaft sensor... whatever it is you can think of, Ive done it all. Taken to my trusted garage then towed to 2 other garages, hired a independent electrician and mechanic and still not help...

I've drawn the line as I spent over 1k within a week and now I'm going to buy a e92 320i this morning

The problem is, power is coming into the ecu and not coming out enabling no fuel consumption or power or some bullshit, it's worthless now

[Sam mechanic]

Originally Posted by M.chowdhury1

Hi I had sam issue with me e90 335i crank won’t start any update about your one didn’t start ?

Started the car up let it run for 30 seconds and it died and since then hadn't started. It would crank but not start. I replaced the battery, camshaft sensor... whatever it is you can think of, Ive done it all. Taken to my trusted garage then towed to 2 other garages, hired a independent electrician and mechanic and still not help...

I've drawn the line as I spent over 1k within a week and now I'm going to buy a e92 320i this morning

The problem is, power is coming into the ecu and not coming out enabling no fuel consumption or power or some bullshit, it's worthless now

Hi had same issue did u sorted out your one ? Any update will be helpful thanks