Steering rack clunking noise

vtl · 02-14-2017, 06:35 PM

Official jointing torque for the steering rack is 56Nm + 90 degrees of rotation to stretch the bolt.

Putting angle on the bolt permanently stretches the bolt so officially you have to replace the bolt and but. This is to achieve high clamping forces while reducing the number of fasteners required.

Hardly anyone actually does this, if you want to reuse the bolt you can retorque it up to 56Nm, I would not put the angle on a stretched bolt.

rapishorrid · 02-15-2017, 06:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vtl

Official jointing torque for the steering rack is 56Nm + 90 degrees of rotation to stretch the bolt.

Putting angle on the bolt permanently stretches the bolt so officially you have to replace the bolt and but. This is to achieve high clamping forces while reducing the number of fasteners required.

Hardly anyone actually does this, if you want to reuse the bolt you can retorque it up to 56Nm, I would not put the angle on a stretched bolt.

Thanks. Hopefully this fixes my problem (when going slow/parked I get a knock that can be felt through the wheel when turning right to left).

Mean E92 · 09-21-2017, 09:56 PM

Anyone have any other solutions? I got new bolts and torqued them to 56nm and 90 degrees. Still have the same issue.

juld0zer · 10-02-2017, 05:10 AM

Upper strut mounts - check the rubber is still good (no cracks) when the steering is rotated through to both ends. Check the upper strut nut is still tight, particularly those of you with aftermarket suspension or if the shocks have been replaced at any point. Check the three nuts that hold the strut mount to the tower. They are single use egg shaped nuts. If reused, they can loosen over time. If you have non standard strut mounts (camber plates etc) then don't discount them as a possibility also.

Someone mentioned it earlier, but also check the strut brace. The bolts are supposed to be replaced on the strut towers but often the central one below the windshield is neglected and insufficiently tight.

Ball joints - possible stiction or rust due to water penetration of the boots.

Subframe bolts - make sure they are tight also, particularly those of you who have dropped it at some point.

Wheel bearing bolts - unlikely but possible i guess.

Hard to believe a knuckle would be to blame because it has no moving parts of its own.

For me, I had both the first issues i listed.

02-14-2017, 06:35 PM	#45
vtl Brigadier General 1493 Rep 3,148 Posts Drives: 2008 BMW 135i MT Join Date: Apr 2015 Location: Melbourne, Australia iTrader: (0)	Official jointing torque for the steering rack is 56Nm + 90 degrees of rotation to stretch the bolt. Putting angle on the bolt permanently stretches the bolt so officially you have to replace the bolt and but. This is to achieve high clamping forces while reducing the number of fasteners required. Hardly anyone actually does this, if you want to reuse the bolt you can retorque it up to 56Nm, I would not put the angle on a stretched bolt. __________________ Build Thread
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09-21-2017, 09:56 PM	#47
Mean E92 Private First Class 40 Rep 177 Posts Drives: 2011 BMW E92 335i Join Date: Jun 2016 Location: San Francisco, California iTrader: (0)	Anyone have any other solutions? I got new bolts and torqued them to 56nm and 90 degrees. Still have the same issue.
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10-02-2017, 05:10 AM	#48
juld0zer Lieutenant Colonel 480 Rep 1,600 Posts Drives: Prev 135i 7DCT, Now 130i 6sp Join Date: Jul 2016 Location: 2153 iTrader: (0)	Upper strut mounts - check the rubber is still good (no cracks) when the steering is rotated through to both ends. Check the upper strut nut is still tight, particularly those of you with aftermarket suspension or if the shocks have been replaced at any point. Check the three nuts that hold the strut mount to the tower. They are single use egg shaped nuts. If reused, they can loosen over time. If you have non standard strut mounts (camber plates etc) then don't discount them as a possibility also. Someone mentioned it earlier, but also check the strut brace. The bolts are supposed to be replaced on the strut towers but often the central one below the windshield is neglected and insufficiently tight. Ball joints - possible stiction or rust due to water penetration of the boots. Subframe bolts - make sure they are tight also, particularly those of you who have dropped it at some point. Wheel bearing bolts - unlikely but possible i guess. Hard to believe a knuckle would be to blame because it has no moving parts of its own. For me, I had both the first issues i listed.
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