E90Post
 


 
BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > N57 / M57 Turbo Diesel Discussions - 335d > SIB 11 03 14 BMW diesel walnut blasting



Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
      07-28-2016, 03:15 PM   #67
Dazza335iC
Second Lieutenant
54
Rep
215
Posts

Drives: E39 M5, F15 35d
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Portland, OR

iTrader: (0)

Garage List
2000 E39 M5 Dinan  [0.00]
2017 X5 35d  [0.00]
Good ideas in here about verifying TDC. I'm going to attempt to do my CBU tonight without pulling the valve cover; I just don't feel comfortable fucking with a fuel system that's at 22,000psi, plus everything else required to get it out.

My plan is to insert the blasting wand all the way down to the valve, then pull it back up slowly, watching it's position with the boroscope. Then when it gets to the plastic bit of the runner, apply a piece of tape to the wand just where it exits the runner so that I can see my "limit"; that way I know not to pull the wand out past that point where it could spray/damage the plastic.

I also figure I should clean out as much gunk as I can before blasting with picks and other tools, to make it easier. The good news is that my CBU doesn't seem too horrible and I think my boroscope will let me see the valves to verify TDC without having to clean it out first.
Appreciate 0
      07-28-2016, 10:29 PM   #68
dr_dirtg
Private First Class
39
Rep
167
Posts

Drives: 335d
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Canada

iTrader: (0)

i think you're too occupied with the big #s (22,000psi), the pressure will deplete over time, if you engine is off for a 1/2 day or more i think you shold be ok. I pulled everything becuase i wasn't sure how to check, although now that i know, i will never pull the valve cover anymore.
I sent you email with as much info as I gathered to verify each cyl is in the TDC. Hopefully this helps.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Dazza335iC View Post
Good ideas in here about verifying TDC. I'm going to attempt to do my CBU tonight without pulling the valve cover; I just don't feel comfortable fucking with a fuel system that's at 22,000psi, plus everything else required to get it out.

My plan is to insert the blasting wand all the way down to the valve, then pull it back up slowly, watching it's position with the boroscope. Then when it gets to the plastic bit of the runner, apply a piece of tape to the wand just where it exits the runner so that I can see my "limit"; that way I know not to pull the wand out past that point where it could spray/damage the plastic.

I also figure I should clean out as much gunk as I can before blasting with picks and other tools, to make it easier. The good news is that my CBU doesn't seem too horrible and I think my boroscope will let me see the valves to verify TDC without having to clean it out first.
Appreciate 0
      07-29-2016, 12:04 AM   #69
Hoooper
Colonel
213
Rep
2,210
Posts

Drives: 335D
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Petaluma, CA

iTrader: (0)

The pressure is much much lower at idle and probably has a shut down procedure that includes releasing most of the pressure. You aren't going to spray a hole in your hand disconnecting the rail.
Appreciate 0
      07-29-2016, 10:22 PM   #70
dr_dirtg
Private First Class
39
Rep
167
Posts

Drives: 335d
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Canada

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoooper View Post
The pressure is much much lower at idle and probably has a shut down procedure that includes releasing most of the pressure. You aren't going to spray a hole in your hand disconnecting the rail.
I agree with this, and to add I had absolutely no pressure from the fuel injector feed lines when i loosened the nuts on them.
I had fuel come out but i would call it drip out and not spray out.
Appreciate 0
      07-29-2016, 10:25 PM   #71
dr_dirtg
Private First Class
39
Rep
167
Posts

Drives: 335d
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Canada

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by ninja_zx11 View Post
I know its too late for you but here is what i am thinking to do when i will be doing CBU cleanup on my X5 35D.
I would feed the cylinder with compressed air at around 20~50 psi through glow plug hole and watch the pressure gauge needle movement to find the tdc.At low PSI,you can actually see the needle moving as the piston moves up or down.I got this idea while doing leakdown test on my pressure washers's V-twin cylinder engine.
Hi yes I'm already done my carbon cleaning. But this is an awesome idea. Wish I thought of it earlier.
I will definetely do this next time (probably wont be a next time because i'm blocking the egr asap and then possible will get the jarek tune as long as he doesn't put some spider boot something on my ecu)

But maybe if if I have another car with a 35d motor.
Appreciate 0
      08-01-2016, 03:44 PM   #72
Dazza335iC
Second Lieutenant
54
Rep
215
Posts

Drives: E39 M5, F15 35d
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Portland, OR

iTrader: (0)

Garage List
2000 E39 M5 Dinan  [0.00]
2017 X5 35d  [0.00]
Quote:
Originally Posted by dr_dirtg View Post
I agree with this, and to add I had absolutely no pressure from the fuel injector feed lines when i loosened the nuts on them.
I had fuel come out but i would call it drip out and not spray out.
That's good to know!
Appreciate 0
      03-23-2019, 05:41 PM   #73
MametXfive
Registered
0
Rep
2
Posts

Drives: E70 X5 35D
Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: NJ

iTrader: (0)

Can you explain the TDC process

Quote:
Originally Posted by nwsnowboarder View Post
I think you mean under the valve, not under the piston.

You are absolutely correct. The procedure of rotating the engine ensures that the intake valves are closed prior to blasting each cylinders intake. You start at cylinder 1 at TDC, perform the cleaning for that cylinder, then rotate to the next cylinder, repeat, etc. If the procedure is followed there is no way that walnut shells or anything else can get past the valves and into the cylinder.

I don't understand why they pulled the glow plugs, as they are not part of the procedure, nor affected since they are not in the intake. If they pulled the glow plugs, the only thing that could drop off the glow plug is the element that heats up, which would be very obviously broken off once the glow plug was removed.

It sounds to me, and this is pure speculation, that they might not have covered the other intakes while they were blasting the one at TDC and accidentally dropped something that fell into an uncovered intake that had an open valve, again pure speculation. There is at least one video on YouTube that shows the carbon blasting process, watch it to familiarize yourself with the process.

Perhaps they rotated the engine before ensuring all the walnut shells were vacuumed out. As soon as the valve opened, the shells would have dropped into the cylinder, on top of the piston.

With the intake off the engine should rotate relatively easily by hand.
Can you explain when is the cylinder is at TDC from page 10?
Appreciate 0
      03-24-2019, 12:22 PM   #74
DozerDan82
Private First Class
United_States
31
Rep
130
Posts

Drives: 335d
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: New Jersey

iTrader: (0)

I pulled the Valve Cover to do mine. You can get to the one set of ports much easier.

Also you can easily determine when the valves are closed, just by looking at the cam. Off lobe = closed/ on lobe= open
Appreciate 0
      03-24-2019, 04:19 PM   #75
MametXfive
Registered
0
Rep
2
Posts

Drives: E70 X5 35D
Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: NJ

iTrader: (0)

TDC DYI

Quote:
Originally Posted by DozerDan82 View Post
I pulled the Valve Cover to do mine. You can get to the one set of ports much easier.

Also you can easily determine when the valves are closed, just by looking at the cam. Off lobe = closed/ on lobe= open
Can someone show how to achieve the TDC? Nothing out there for diesel engines.
Appreciate 0
      03-25-2019, 06:15 PM   #76
cm335d
Private First Class
59
Rep
171
Posts

Drives: 2011 BMW 335d
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Los Angeles, CA

iTrader: (0)

Just use a borescope and look inside the intake manifold and watch the valves open and close when bumping the starter. It will be super obvious when the valves are closed completely. Watch the valves open and close a few cycles and you'll see what I mean. Also, there is a hole in the flywheel to put a pin (or allen key) into on the transmission (drivers side) housing that will also line up when it is a TDC.
Appreciate 0
      04-08-2019, 08:31 PM   #77
Goboro100
Private
Goboro100's Avatar
Greece
11
Rep
73
Posts

Drives: 335d
Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: Upstate NY

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Got_Diesel View Post
My dealer would have charged about $1,800 but it was all covered under my CPO. $50 deductible is all I paid.
Covered only if carbon build up caused issues and threw on CELs of not I would love to know how you got the dealership to complete a carbon cleaning.
Appreciate 0
      04-08-2019, 10:57 PM   #78
335dlci
Lieutenant Colonel
275
Rep
1,566
Posts

Drives: 335d
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Socal

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Goboro100 View Post
Covered only if carbon build up caused issues and threw on CELs of not I would love to know how you got the dealership to complete a carbon cleaning.
No way you're going to get this covered in 2019. His car was still under warranty
Appreciate 0
      04-10-2019, 09:03 AM   #79
Goboro100
Private
Goboro100's Avatar
Greece
11
Rep
73
Posts

Drives: 335d
Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: Upstate NY

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by 335dlci View Post
No way you're going to get this covered in 2019. His car was still under warranty
Carbon cleaning is a maintenance service tho...
Appreciate 0
      04-10-2019, 01:22 PM   #80
335dlci
Lieutenant Colonel
275
Rep
1,566
Posts

Drives: 335d
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Socal

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Goboro100 View Post
Carbon cleaning is a maintenance service tho...
Yes exactly my point. Cpo, new car warranty or maintenance warranty.
Appreciate 0
      04-19-2019, 04:51 PM   #81
at100plus
New Member
3
Rep
15
Posts

Drives: BMW 335d
Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: NJ

iTrader: (0)

Cleaning Intake

I just wanted to post my results. I brought my car to an Indy Because I didn't quite feel like I was comfortable with finding TDC.

I didn't trust that anyone local knew how to do this job right and I wasn't sure I was comfortable ensuring TDC myself, but I wish I had trusted myself now (because I care and take pride in MY work). Now that I have read up on it for days and had a couple people coach me on how easy it is (just time consuming and messy), days I decided to redo the crappy half job that Mark from Total Precision did to my car. Hopefully he didn't mess anything up. The good news is at least the 6 valves that he did blast look pretty clean. I will probably hit them again just to get them perfect since I'm deleting now and don't want to ever have to do it again.

Anyway. He the shop gave me my intake back still dirty. He said it was the best he could do. I was annoyed and disgusted. I really can't believe a shop that claims to be a BMW specialist is this incompetent. I Posted on FB North American Diesel group asking what the secret formula is that someone like AARodriguez is using in his ultrasonic bath for intakes. I saw someone mention that not only does he do ultrasonic but he has a system of hoses running the degreaser thru. That gave me the pool pump idea.

My intake was still very dirty even after Total Precision gave it back. He really only got the first inch of the ports clean the rest was still gummed up.

SO here is what I did:

I bought a 5 gallon bucket of Purple Power industrial degreaser $30 at most auto parts stores (might need an additional 2.5 gal jug depending on size of container you use for the bath). I put my intake in 100% pure Purple Power overnight. I used an old pool cover pump (relatively low pressure, normal garden hose output). I cut an old washing machine rubber hose short (12 in long) and put the output end of the hose in the big opening of the intake so the Purple Power was flowing thru the intake all night. For a little extra ultrasonic kick I also put the lid on the retangular box I was dipping the intake in and a pad sander on top of it running for two hours. Not sure if that was necessary but whatever, it all worked amazingly.

Next morning I pulled the intake out and to my delight it was perfectly clean like brand new. No scrubbing, no power washing needed. I hosed it out good and dried it with compressed air. DONE. Why on earth could a BMW Indy shop not do this properly it was so simple!

Then on to the walnut blasting. I brought car to him with the intake off ready to be blasted. When I picked it up he had only done the valves on the easy side. He tried to tell me both valves were in the port. He simply did not want to deal with the plastic tangenial ports (either he was lying or he's stupid). Anyway I bought a $30 Harbor Freight media blaster and modified the wand with a 1/2 barb fitting the presses in where the Harbor Freight gun has a removeable ceramic tip. The other side of the barb I put a screw on 1/4" compression fitting that accepts a long piece of bendable 1/4" copper tubing. I will be using that to redo the crap walnut blast job. Thanks to Chris from FB North American Diesel group who took the time to explain to me how he did the job, it gave me the confidence I needed to to this myself.

Last edited by at100plus; 05-03-2019 at 04:57 PM..
Appreciate 1
      04-22-2019, 10:22 PM   #82
at100plus
New Member
3
Rep
15
Posts

Drives: BMW 335d
Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: NJ

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by DozerDan82 View Post
That sucks. Wish I would have known, you could have borrowed my blaster set up. I even have a box of shells left over.

It is not a hard job, just a time consuming one to do properly.

I have done my car twice now. And hopefully for the last time now that it is deleted.

Just finished blasting. Definitely recommend a good water filter setup on your compressor. It got humid today and it started taking a really long time to get a valve clean then I realized I wasn't flowing media a lot of time. Couldn't really tell because I had the vacuum attached. Turned out to be clogging due to water getting to the gun. I was using a dessicant snake but I guess it got full.
It did take some time. I still want to go back and touch them up one more time. I had a hard time getting my 3/8 OD wand to hit the forward most edge of the valve.
Appreciate 0
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 08:22 AM.




e90post
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
1Addicts.com, BIMMERPOST.com, E90Post.com, F30Post.com, M3Post.com, ZPost.com, 5Post.com, 6Post.com, 7Post.com, XBimmers.com logo and trademark are properties of BIMMERPOST