[hanxter7]

Hey everybody. So my situation started with a stage 2 tune from Malone tuning to delete my emissions. Since then I was having trouble getting fuel all the way from the lpfp to the intake. For a time, I was able to prime the pump, and activate the fuel pump separately, with my protools app. One day it stopped working so I asked a friend about the ekp. I thought that was my issue. So I did the "fix ekp" function. Turns out my battery was just not connected. Now though, after connecting the battery, cannot prime or activate the fuel pump. Does anyone know if the fix actually messed up the ekp, and is there a way to fix the fix without buying a new one. If any one can shed any light on any of this it would be so appreciated. I have a 2011 335d, with an E90 m57 engine.

[maryjane]

Its behind the rear seat passenger side bolster.....i suggest getting out a multimeter and start chaecking.......when mine died all i could hear was a super high pitched almost dog whistle beeping when attempting to prime.....AND if you truly overheated/burned up the EKP you can start blowing fuses # 70 or 71 i believe ( 20 amp ). Good luck....kind of an expensive little module.

[hanxter7]

Oh, I hadn't even considered the multimeter, thanks, and I'll check those fuses too.

[hanxter7]

How do I test the ekp voltage, I have a multimeter?

[BB_cuda]

Originally Posted by hanxter7

How do I test the ekp voltage, I have a multimeter?

I made mistake of messing with EKP in the wrong way and tore up a connector. I also wanted to test voltage output of this guy as it feeds toward the LPFP. I had no fueling problem though.

There had been a contentious debate raging amongst us. The debate was whether turning the car on but NOT holding down the brake pedal and holding start button would activate the LPFP. I wanted to stop the BS talk and just go measure it.

I shoved needles into the output female receptacles on the EKP and clipped onto them with alligators going to my multimeter. I didn't get a voltage reading that made any sense and presumed the needles were too small. I upped my game and used some bare 12 gauge solid conductor house wire. This proved to be too big and deformed the female receptacles. I didn't know this right away. When I was done with other work, which was manually priming the LPFP with a spare 12v car battery run directly to the LPFP leads (MAKE SURE YOU HAVE 335d battery disconnected if you do this), i had an error come to my NAV screen. I wasn't getting power to the LPFP through the EKP's output connector. I have a picture of the NAV screen somewhere. I'll add it to thread when i find it.

In summary, my point is don't F up that connector. I had to go to dealer and get new crimp on female terminations and buy a nice crimper. I bought extra terminals to allow "learning" use of the crimper. It all worked fine.

Back to point of my testing. I learned that you don't get 12V to the LPFP terminals unless you are in the actual starter turning point. Activating the car by a single push of the start button but no foot on pedal DOES NOT send voltage to the LPFP. This is at least the case for my 2011 335D.
EDIT: added in that NAV screen pic and a couple others.

[maryjane]

Look at the photos above.......youll need protool or some other app software to turn on the prime function.......Check voltage into ekp module....if thats good then unplug the fuel pump and check voltage to the pump.

[lnxguy]

Priming the pump is 4 clicks in Tool32.