[pjr710]

Ok first off I have a few questions. I have a 2007 335i coupe .. i have the oil cooler

For my OHFG replacement:

1. Do i need to flush my coolant?
2. Do i need to drain the oil?
3. Is this also a good time to replace my serpentine belt?

For my valve cover gasket:

1. Do i need a crow foot wrench to torque the fuel lines? I've seen some guys not doing this, but read a how to from ECS tuning and they did...
2. The last time I changed my spark plugs the threads inside the motor were all shitted up from oil I guess - how can I clean these?


Overall is there anything else I should be doing? I watched a video where a guy said he changed an O ring in one of his plastic valves in the rear when he did the valve cover gasket ... another guy i watched said to also replace the intake gasket during the OFHG change.

Also are there any tools that may make my life easier? I read a write up where someone said to use some kind of angled ratchet for the OFHG b/c it was a real hard bolt to get to.

I also heard to replace screws for the valve cover gasket replacement - seems debatable?

I got my work cut out for me!

[BKV122]

No need to flush coolant or drain your drain you oil when doing you OFHG. If your Serp belt seems worn go for it, or just change it for peace of mind.
As for other things to be done, when doing your valve cover gasket Id replace your Eccentric shaft sensor, as they're know to get oil in it over time and fail. Resulting in you removing you valve cover to replace

[pjr710]

Originally Posted by BKV122

No need to flush coolant or drain your drain you oil when doing you OFHG. If your Serp belt seems worn go for it, or just change it for peace of mind.
As for other things to be done, when doing your valve cover gasket Id replace your Eccentric shaft sensor, as they're know to get oil in it over time and fail. Resulting in you removing you valve cover to replace

Ok so coolant and oil will just fall out a little when I take both off right?

Can I use permatex copper gasket on the OFH & the Oil Cooler Housing without issue?

The serp belt doesn't seem worn but I figured since oil seepage has been around might as well replace it.

For the valve cover gasket ... I have been googling eccentric shaft sensor and can't find anything that fits my car ... e92 n54 335i 2007 - does mind have one? I heard the whole valve cover has some parts to it, which is why i was considering buying the whole thing.

[BKV122]

Originally Posted by pjr710

Ok so coolant and oil will just fall out a little when I take both off right?

Can I use permatex copper gasket on the OFH & the Oil Cooler Housing without issue?

The serp belt doesn't seem worn but I figured since oil seepage has been around might as well replace it.

For the valve cover gasket ... I have been googling eccentric shaft sensor and can't find anything that fits my car ... e92 n54 335i 2007 - does mind have one? I heard the whole valve cover has some parts to it, which is why i was considering buying the whole thing.

Yes just a little pit will drain out so be prepared for a slight mess. After you're done Id drive for a little and check level of both fluids to make sure they're t proper levels.

I'd buy a new OFH Gasket and replace old. I didnt use any permatex gasket when I did mine

Good piece of mind replacing the serp belt then.

As for your valve cover/eccentric shaft sensor not sure if you have that sensor. My '06 330 had a bad sensor and replaced a few other gaskets when I had to take valve cover off.

Any gaskets that you touch/remove on OFH or VC I'd replace with new

[bluewater328]

Second pic is the ESS location.

First pic shows that a new Valve cover comes with all the gaskets you need: (pictured) ESS seal, Valvetronic gasket, center bolts; (unpictured) VC gasket, ignition coil tube gaskets, preinstalled sleeved bolts.

You will need new ignition coil tube sleeves (one time use), reuse two non-sleeved bolts, possibly use permatex black in back area of VCG just so you know it stays in place (hardest place to access and it clips stuff while you're reinstalling).

[lowrydr310]

All the advice you got so far is spot on. I'll share my comments from my recent experience doing the same repairs to my car (though I have a N52 which is easier to access). Coolant flush and oil drain isn't necessary when replacing the oil filter housing gasket. I removed the oil filter and used a syringe to suck out as much oil from the housing as I could (less than a cup), and when removed there was only a drop or two that spilled. When removing the coolant line, either where it enters the housing or the other line bolted to the head to the left of the oil filter housing, about a pint of coolant may come out so have a pan handy to catch it. There's no need to flush, just make sure you top off with fresh coolant after you're done.

There are two bolts on the oil filter housing gasket that are a real pain to access. One is under the intake manifold at the rear of the housing, and the other is the front lower bolt which is right next to a connector where coolant
enters the head. For the rear, it's easiest to access with a 1/4" drive with E10 socket like this: https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-Proto.../dp/B004USO7WK I only had a 3/8" drive E10 socket which was too thick to get between the intake runners and ended up using a standard hex socket, which unfortunately didn't allow me to torque it properly. As a result, I still have a minor leak at the rear of the OFHG because it's not torqued correctly. I now have the correct socket and a new gasket on order, hoping to redo it this weekend.

The lower front bolt is also a pain to access and is easiest done with the coolant line removed. Unfortunately the plastic coupler that is connected to the head is most likely degraded and will crumble apart when you remove it, so be prepared for this. If you don't want to remove the plastic coupler and risk breaking it, you could get a ratchet wrench like this: https://www.amazon.com/Apex-Tool-Gro.../dp/B000HBF5LQ however I figured it was safest to replace the coupler and hose because that's one less thing to possibly fail in the future.

The serpentine belt and tensioner replacement aren't necessary unless they are either showing signs of wear or misalignment, or you don't know when they were last replaced. In my case my tensioner was bent and the belt appeared worn so I replaced them. When I was done I looked at the old belt and it had some cracking on the underside between the V grooves, so it looked well past its useful life. I was able to complete the job start to finish in under 30 minutes, so it's very easy. Just make sure you have the T60 driver bit to release the tensioner.


As for the eccentric shaft sensor, mine didn't showany signs of leaking oil so I didn't bother changing. It's worth replacing if you don't know that it's been replaced before and don't mind spending $, but I left mine go. If it fails, then that's another valve cover removal and replacement, and after having done it once already it shouldn't be too difficult to do a second time.

N54 has steel valve cover bolts as far as I know, so they shouldn't need to be replaced. They don't hold much torque and are very unlikely to be broken therefore they can be reused. (N52 uses aluminum bolts which cannot be reused, I had to use a new set)

Also, there's no need to use permatex.

[pjr710]

Originally Posted by lowrydr310

All the advice you got so far is spot on. I'll share my comments from my recent experience doing the same repairs to my car (though I have a N52 which is easier to access). Coolant flush and oil drain isn't necessary when replacing the oil filter housing gasket. I removed the oil filter and used a syringe to suck out as much oil from the housing as I could (less than a cup), and when removed there was only a drop or two that spilled. When removing the coolant line, either where it enters the housing or the other line bolted to the head to the left of the oil filter housing, about a pint of coolant may come out so have a pan handy to catch it. There's no need to flush, just make sure you top off with fresh coolant after you're done.

There are two bolts on the oil filter housing gasket that are a real pain to access. One is under the intake manifold at the rear of the housing, and the other is the front lower bolt which is right next to a connector where coolant
enters the head. For the rear, it's easiest to access with a 1/4" drive with E10 socket like this: https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-Proto.../dp/B004USO7WK I only had a 3/8" drive E10 socket which was too thick to get between the intake runners and ended up using a standard hex socket, which unfortunately didn't allow me to torque it properly. As a result, I still have a minor leak at the rear of the OFHG because it's not torqued correctly. I now have the correct socket and a new gasket on order, hoping to redo it this weekend.

The lower front bolt is also a pain to access and is easiest done with the coolant line removed. Unfortunately the plastic coupler that is connected to the head is most likely degraded and will crumble apart when you remove it, so be prepared for this. If you don't want to remove the plastic coupler and risk breaking it, you could get a ratchet wrench like this: https://www.amazon.com/Apex-Tool-Gro.../dp/B000HBF5LQ however I figured it was safest to replace the coupler and hose because that's one less thing to possibly fail in the future.

The serpentine belt and tensioner replacement aren't necessary unless they are either showing signs of wear or misalignment, or you don't know when they were last replaced. In my case my tensioner was bent and the belt appeared worn so I replaced them. When I was done I looked at the old belt and it had some cracking on the underside between the V grooves, so it looked well past its useful life. I was able to complete the job start to finish in under 30 minutes, so it's very easy. Just make sure you have the T60 driver bit to release the tensioner.


As for the eccentric shaft sensor, mine didn't showany signs of leaking oil so I didn't bother changing. It's worth replacing if you don't know that it's been replaced before and don't mind spending $, but I left mine go. If it fails, then that's another valve cover removal and replacement, and after having done it once already it shouldn't be too difficult to do a second time.

N54 has steel valve cover bolts as far as I know, so they shouldn't need to be replaced. They don't hold much torque and are very unlikely to be broken therefore they can be reused. (N52 uses aluminum bolts which cannot be reused, I had to use a new set)

Also, there's no need to use permatex.

thanks a million for this.

I just ordered everything yesterday from FCP and have been researching like mad.

A few things:
- I don't think I have an Eccentric Shaft Sensor .. I have an n54 motor and I am unable to locate that part
- I ended up buying the steel coolant hose end from ebay in case mine breaks.
- While i'm at this job I'm going to just replace the valve cover, the belt and pulleys, also my low pressure sensor rail b/c it's throwing a code, my plugs, my ignition coils, my PCV hose, my boost solenoids, and the oil filter and oil cooler housing gaskets.

It's going to be one big job, but my car is a 2007 and these are all original parts with 11 years and 116k (mostly highway) miles on it .. so I figure I should be in pretty good shape after this is done.

The only thing I really plan on doing after within the next 4 months hopefully would be a walnut blast - I don't have any places locally so I will likely do it myself.

Also I replaced all my vac lines about 2 months ago so they are fresh as well.

[lowrydr310]

I finished replacing my oil filter housing gasket this past weekend, the second time I did it in the last four months because I messed up the first time by not having the right tools.

The last time I did it, I didn't properly torque the bolts because I had a hard time accessing the rear bolt under the intake manifold. I ended up torquing the front upper and lower bolts, leaving the back of the housing not seated properly which was weeping oil down onto the block under the intake manifold.

I had a 1/4" drive E10 socket this time around which made the job significantly easier. I also made sure to alternate between the bolts while torquing them down to evenly press the filter housing toward the cylinder head and compress the gasket.

Originally Posted by lowrydr310

When removing the coolant line, either where it enters the housing or the other line bolted to the head to the left of the oil filter housing, about a pint of coolant may come out so have a pan handy to catch it.

Quoting myself here to correct something I said. When removing the coolant line from the head to the left of the oil filter housing, there was a lot more than a pint of coolant that came out. It was more like a half gallon. It didn't seem like that much the first time I did it. I had a shop rag covering the serpentine belt and a catch pan on the floor.

[pjr710]

Originally Posted by lowrydr310

I finished replacing my oil filter housing gasket this past weekend, the second time I did it in the last four months because I messed up the first time by not having the right tools.

The last time I did it, I didn't properly torque the bolts because I had a hard time accessing the rear bolt under the intake manifold. I ended up torquing the front upper and lower bolts, leaving the back of the housing not seated properly which was weeping oil down onto the block under the intake manifold.

I had a 1/4" drive E10 socket this time around which made the job significantly easier. I also made sure to alternate between the bolts while torquing them down to evenly press the filter housing toward the cylinder head and compress the gasket.



Quoting myself here to correct something I said. When removing the coolant line from the head to the left of the oil filter housing, there was a lot more than a pint of coolant that came out. It was more like a half gallon. It didn't seem like that much the first time I did it. I had a shop rag covering the serpentine belt and a catch pan on the floor.

I plan on buying this set today https://www.harborfreight.com/6-pc-1...set-68017.html

Do you think the length of this socket will be an issue? I plan on using one of the rotating joint connectors if needed.

[kkasson]

Originally Posted by pjr710

I plan on buying this set today https://www.harborfreight.com/6-pc-1...set-68017.html

Do you think the length of this socket will be an issue? I plan on using one of the rotating joint connectors if needed.

The long E10 won't fit - only a short E10 on a universal joint will fit.

However that's for the N52 - on the N52 it's possible to reach the bolt that way without touching the intake manifold. I think on the N54 it's not possible to reach it without at least loosening the intake. Some people only loosen the one side of the manifold and reuse the gaskets, but I'd recommend just removing the manifold and replacing the gasket. You don't need to take it all the way off, but once it's loose it's fairly easy to lift it up enough to the gaskets replaced. You can do it the other way if you're careful, but since you haven't done the job before it's always better to have extra room. It's not difficult to remove it, just go slow and budget a little more time for it. Be sure you don't get any debris inside the manifold, just clean the top of it off before removing it.

I can't say for sure if the long E10 will fit with the manifold loosened or if you still need the short one, maybe someone else will know.

Also yes, just to verify for you, there's no ESS on your N54. Only the N52 and N55 have valvetronic.

[pjr710]

Originally Posted by kkasson

The long E10 won't fit - only a short E10 on a universal joint will fit.

However that's for the N52 - on the N52 it's possible to reach the bolt that way without touching the intake manifold. I think on the N54 it's not possible to reach it without at least loosening the intake. Some people only loosen the one side of the manifold and reuse the gaskets, but I'd recommend just removing the manifold and replacing the gasket. You don't need to take it all the way off, but once it's loose it's fairly easy to lift it up enough to the gaskets replaced. You can do it the other way if you're careful, but since you haven't done the job before it's always better to have extra room. It's not difficult to remove it, just go slow and budget a little more time for it. Be sure you don't get any debris inside the manifold, just clean the top of it off before removing it.

I can't say for sure if the long E10 will fit with the manifold loosened or if you still need the short one, maybe someone else will know.

Also yes, just to verify for you, there's no ESS on your N54. Only the N52 and N55 have valvetronic.

alright yea that makes more sense, all the videos i watched it didn't say anything about having a thin socket ...

thanks for the clarification and also for the ESS