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      03-22-2020, 11:58 PM   #1
con.fetti
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Question Another Bimmerlabs 330i tune thread

I know this discussion has already been run into the ground at this point so I'm going to get straight to the point. I have a 3IM coming in the mail in a couple weeks and am going to attempt the 330i flash tune from Bimmerlabs. I just finished configuring the program but I'm not sure it's correct. There are a few red flags that have me concerned.
  1. I do not have the "ecudata" folder shown in the Bimmerlabs tutorial, however, I do have "Ecu" and "EnglishEcu" folders. Are these the same thing?

  2. My chassis code folder (E89) does not contain .prg files. It instead contains these:



  3. All of the .prg files appear in the "EnglishEcu" folder. Is this correct?


If this is all jumbled up I'll go ahead and remove all of the files and restart the installation. Better to find out now than during the flash

Thanks!
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      03-23-2020, 05:16 AM   #2
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Installation looks normal to me. The ecudata folder is the name of the folder that ISTA-P stores in the daten files in, never seen that as part of the standard tools installation.

All your .prg files should end up in "C:\EDIABAS\ECU" or "C:\EDIABAS\EnglishEcu".
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      03-23-2020, 12:35 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CarAbuser View Post
Installation looks normal to me. The ecudata folder is the name of the folder that ISTA-P stores in the daten files in, never seen that as part of the standard tools installation.

All your .prg files should end up in "C:\EDIABAS\ECU" or "C:\EDIABAS\EnglishEcu".
Okay perfect, that's where they are stored on my end. The part that threw me I guess was Bimmergeeks saying to delete and replace the folders, but Bimmerlabs saying not to. However, if I didn't delete and replace the folders, the programs would not open.
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      03-25-2020, 12:05 AM   #4
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^thoughts on that?
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      03-25-2020, 04:01 AM   #5
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Bimmergeeks is the proven solution for getting a working standard tools installation so I'd follow that.

I've had a look at Bimmerlabs before and like the idea of flash tuning with WinKFP but with the N54 platform there is better tools. One thing I did notice about the Bimmerlabs method was that it's very sensitive to WinKFP settings so make sure you follow that part to the letter. Something about disabling bootsectorupdate IIRC.
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      03-25-2020, 11:55 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CarAbuser View Post
Bimmergeeks is the proven solution for getting a working standard tools installation so I'd follow that.

I've had a look at Bimmerlabs before and like the idea of flash tuning with WinKFP but with the N54 platform there is better tools. One thing I did notice about the Bimmerlabs method was that it's very sensitive to WinKFP settings so make sure you follow that part to the letter. Something about disabling bootsectorupdate IIRC.
I configured WinKFP to a T, so hopefully I'm good to go. I think I'm just going to have to go for it. I've read a lot of horror stories about bricking the DME so I'm anxious. Hopefully all goes well and if so, I'll report back here!
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      03-25-2020, 05:12 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by con.fetti View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by CarAbuser View Post
Bimmergeeks is the proven solution for getting a working standard tools installation so I'd follow that.

I've had a look at Bimmerlabs before and like the idea of flash tuning with WinKFP but with the N54 platform there is better tools. One thing I did notice about the Bimmerlabs method was that it's very sensitive to WinKFP settings so make sure you follow that part to the letter. Something about disabling bootsectorupdate IIRC.
I configured WinKFP to a T, so hopefully I'm good to go. I think I'm just going to have to go for it. I've read a lot of horror stories about bricking the DME so I'm anxious. Hopefully all goes well and if so, I'll report back here!
Before jumping in, try doing a few basic things like using INPA. This will help you confirm your connections before you do something that really needs a good connection.

Its very hard to brick a DME with Winfkp. If you screw up the DME will go into recovery mode but that's easy to fix, scary but easy.

Regardless you need good reliable connections.
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      03-26-2020, 04:14 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rjahl View Post
Before jumping in, try doing a few basic things like using INPA. This will help you confirm your connections before you do something that really needs a good connection.

Its very hard to brick a DME with Winfkp. If you screw up the DME will go into recovery mode but that's easy to fix, scary but easy.

Regardless you need good reliable connections.
Thank you for the response. I'm still waiting for the 3im in the mail so I have plenty of time to make sure things are configured before jumping in. For the cable, I'll be using the official Bimmergeeks one as I've heard nothing but good things about it. As far as INPA goes, I get the OK that the cable is connected and the ignition is on.

I read that you should keep a battery charger on the car during the process. Is that just as simple as plugging in the charger while the car is in accessory mode? I've used a trickle charger 100s of times, but never while the car is set to accessory.
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      03-26-2020, 05:55 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by con.fetti View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by rjahl View Post
Before jumping in, try doing a few basic things like using INPA. This will help you confirm your connections before you do something that really needs a good connection.

Its very hard to brick a DME with Winfkp. If you screw up the DME will go into recovery mode but that's easy to fix, scary but easy.

Regardless you need good reliable connections.
Thank you for the response. I'm still waiting for the 3im in the mail so I have plenty of time to make sure things are configured before jumping in. For the cable, I'll be using the official Bimmergeeks one as I've heard nothing but good things about it. As far as INPA goes, I get the OK that the cable is connected and the ignition is on.

I read that you should keep a battery charger on the car during the process. Is that just as simple as plugging in the charger while the car is in accessory mode? I've used a trickle charger 100s of times, but never while the car is set to accessory.
Checking the connection with INPA is just part of the process as I check for stored errors before the flash. If I get an error after the flash, I'm pretty sure the flash was the cause.

I always use a battery charger when doing a long flash like RSA delete. Just a habit, my older E85 ran the fuel pump during the flash and it took 20 amps to keep up with the loads. No trickle charger will manage that.

My E89 does not run the fuel pump while flashing but I never checked the load during a flash. I have a great 45 amp charger in the garage. Takes two minutes to hook up and I don't worry about it. Frankly you run the RSA delete once, just be prepared.

For the short flashes, I just keep the radio, headlights and fans turned off. They should only take 1-2 minutes. Even with the tiny battery fitted into my E85 that was never an issue. With that car, I frequently flashed on the road, just pull into a gas station and try something new.
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      Today, 12:24 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rjahl View Post
Checking the connection with INPA is just part of the process as I check for stored errors before the flash. If I get an error after the flash, I'm pretty sure the flash was the cause.

I always use a battery charger when doing a long flash like RSA delete. Just a habit, my older E85 ran the fuel pump during the flash and it took 20 amps to keep up with the loads. No trickle charger will manage that.

My E89 does not run the fuel pump while flashing but I never checked the load during a flash. I have a great 45 amp charger in the garage. Takes two minutes to hook up and I don't worry about it. Frankly you run the RSA delete once, just be prepared.

For the short flashes, I just keep the radio, headlights and fans turned off. They should only take 1-2 minutes. Even with the tiny battery fitted into my E85 that was never an issue. With that car, I frequently flashed on the road, just pull into a gas station and try something new.
I definitely don't want the battery quitting during the RSA delete. So for the battery charger, is it just a matter of hooking up the terminals and plugging it in? I didn't know you could keep a battery on this way. I thought the chargers were exclusively for dead batteries. The more you know \_(ツ)_/
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