[drhousedk]

Originally Posted by Spitfire007

Are you sure the bearing surface on which you mount the rotors is PERFECT? that the calipers are squeezing evenly??

Absolutely certain. I've even fitted brand new hubs / bearings in the front, and new rotors during the same job. Should make for a perfect mating surface.

Originally Posted by frenchi

Hard to say without testing the car,if i were you i would start thinking like what will make your rotors to become so hot to warp - friction.Trust me good quality rotors need tremendous heat to warp. So there should be a problem with rotation angle of rotors or the amount of pressure of your brake pads.You already replaced all the hardwear except the dsc pump and what about updating the softwear of your car and then check again the pressure of your abs dsc.

My car was updated january 2018, this didn't change anything.

Originally Posted by Spitfire007

Your pads might be riding on the rotors constantly, getting them hot and keeping them hot.

I don't know how electronic the system is, but is there any way some coding is required to get the pads to ride at the right height?

Checked with a Flir IR heat camera - after cruising at 60 mph for 10 minutes and coasting to a halt, rotors have absolutely no heat in them. Tried braking "firmly" from 60 -> 0, rotors are evenly heated up, and after 2 minutes of cruising then coasting to a halt, the rotors are cooling down at an equal rate.

Originally Posted by Orb

Your symptoms are a pad disposition problem which is about the only thing that cause the violently action you see at the steering wheel. I know this as learned the hard way tracking my car and destroying a few set of rotors that looked fine. Honestly you can not tell by just looking at the rotors. You need to measure with a micrometer. Pad disposition is not the root cause but rather the end result.

The root cause problem lie within your braking system. The question is the problem at one wheel of both. Start breaking the problem down into logical chunks will help

I would be ready to accept disposition if it came after a track day or even hard driving. The last set of rotors, I seriously nursed as an infant child. No hard stops ie., just regular driving, and I NEVER keep my foot on the brake when coming to a stop. Even if it's a very slow stop. I'm very aware of the risk of pad disposition, to an extent where people think I'm silly.

But... I've given up on the car. Tomorrow I'll be picking up my "new" F31 330d. It's like losing a dear friend - I've driven 100k miles in the E91 330d all in all, been to the Nürburgring numerous times, done quite a few road trips to Münich and BMW Welt, as well as visiting the Austrian alps. God, I'm going to miss it. :-(

[anielsen71]

Originally Posted by drhousedk

Absolutely certain. I've even fitted brand new hubs / bearings in the front, and new rotors during the same job. Should make for a perfect mating surface.



My car was updated january 2018, this didn't change anything.



Checked with a Flir IR heat camera - after cruising at 60 mph for 10 minutes and coasting to a halt, rotors have absolutely no heat in them. Tried braking "firmly" from 60 -> 0, rotors are evenly heated up, and after 2 minutes of cruising then coasting to a halt, the rotors are cooling down at an equal rate.



I would be ready to accept disposition if it came after a track day or even hard driving. The last set of rotors, I seriously nursed as an infant child. No hard stops ie., just regular driving, and I NEVER keep my foot on the brake when coming to a stop. Even if it's a very slow stop. I'm very aware of the risk of pad disposition, to an extent where people think I'm silly.

But... I've given up on the car. Tomorrow I'll be picking up my "new" F31 330d. It's like losing a dear friend - I've driven 100k miles in the E91 330d all in all, been to the Nürburgring numerous times, done quite a few road trips to Münich and BMW Welt, as well as visiting the Austrian alps. God, I'm going to miss it. :-(

Hmmm pictures or did not happen

[drhousedk]

Originally Posted by anielsen71

Hmmm pictures or did not happen

Picture* for now :P

[anielsen71]

mmmm nice :-)

[drhousedk]

Originally Posted by anielsen71

mmmm nice :-)

Thanks! I quite like it so far - just a few things that needs smoothing out... BMW Apps isn't activated in the NBT, auto-cancel on window-rollup on door-open is a pain in the a**, I'd like the KOMBI to show M Performance on startup (the car has got the M Performance upgrade)...

Oh yeah, and a new inner left taillight. Suffers from the known "BMW couldn't make LED lights in the beginning of the F series" syndrome.

[anielsen71]

Ok, small things overall.......
I'm looking for some of the same or a 335d or a 435d grand coupe next time. But as a lease.
Found a few good candidates but will wait until next spring I think.

[Asonchadwick]

I am having this exact same problem on my 335d, exactly the same.

[drhousedk]

Originally Posted by Asonchadwick

I am having this exact same problem on my 335d, exactly the same.

I hope you'll figure it out... I gave up on the car, which still hurts to this day. God, I miss that car...

[Asonchadwick]

Originally Posted by drhousedk

I hope you'll figure it out... I gave up on the car, which still hurts to this day. God, I miss that car...

I feel your pain, I also had new rotors and pads, had no issues for a long time and then it just started happening and the parts are only maybe a year old. When I got the car same thing but the seller just machined rotors and it worked for a bit but came back so I replaced. Seems when the rotors are hot it happens and once they cool off it goes away. All I can think of is the rotors get hit and warp, cool off and relax. If it was buildup on rotors I don't think hotnor cold would change that. Now I will have to inspect all my parts and have old rotors checked in all critical dimensions to see what's up.

[Asonchadwick]

I am also looking at the the steering shaft u-joints.

[Asonchadwick]

Drhousedk did you ever measure latteral runout and if so what was the results??

[Jaronbwall]

After reading this thread it shocks me the problem wasn't fixed. The whole damn suspension, brakes, and various parts were upgraded or replaced. Did the OP figure out the issue?
I'm experiencing vibration under braking as well but I believe it's control arms so I'm swapping them out soon.

[Asonchadwick]

, I just replaced my pads and rotors and I have no judder or anything whatsoever it breaks perfectly smooth. My old rotors had some lateral run-out but my pads were perfectly on both sides over perfectly even and square so I know it's not my calipers. I also know it's not my suspension components because if it was it would be happening right now. So the issue is somehow with the rotors and I don't know how long I'll have smooth braking at this point.

[IN54NITY]

Hello. If I read correctly, you changed rotors, pads, but not calipers (and thus pistons)? A bad pad deposit (which I believe you have disproved) or a sticking piston could create such a problem. Based on the videos I have a hard time believing it is anything but the braking system.

>Calipers don't stick at all.

Are you certain?

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showt...2#post20323612

My experience was that a sticking piston seal is very very subtle but makes a big difference.

Possibly far fetched... but did you check the front brake lines and make sure there is not a pinch somewhere? I would inspect the brake lines leaving the master cylinder all the way to the calipers. Lastly, the master cylinder itself or even a faulty ABS unit or wheel speed sensor could be creating this.

[asquared]

Originally Posted by Jaronbwall

After reading this thread it shocks me the problem wasn't fixed. The whole damn suspension, brakes, and various parts were upgraded or replaced. Did the OP figure out the issue?
I'm experiencing vibration under braking as well but I believe it's control arms so I'm swapping them out soon.

Hey man did you ever change your control arms yet? Curious to see if it fixed your problems. I started experiencing the same thing with my E90 and thought it could be the rotors despite only having like 15k on them without any hard driving. But it's weird bc the vibrations are so inconsistent. Can't quite put a finger on it.

However I started all of a sudden experiencing the same thing in my E70 X5 with new brakes about 5k ago. Upon inspecting some oil stains under my X5, I noticed the right tension arm bushing was shot and leaking. So now I'm suspecting it's the control arms on my E90 so eventually plan to upgrade to the M3 arms.

[6ixSpd]

I keep having this issue once in a while when braking... Rotors are two years old, brand new control arms, shock mounts, etc. So frustrating.

I noticed the other day when swapping out my winter wheels that the rotor does not spin freely at all and the pad is making slight contact with it at all times. Stuck caliper, perhaps?

[Jaronbwall]

Originally Posted by asquared

Hey man did you ever change your control arms yet? Curious to see if it fixed your problems. I started experiencing the same thing with my E90 and thought it could be the rotors despite only having like 15k on them without any hard driving. But it's weird bc the vibrations are so inconsistent. Can't quite put a finger on it.

However I started all of a sudden experiencing the same thing in my E70 X5 with new brakes about 5k ago. Upon inspecting some oil stains under my X5, I noticed the right tension arm bushing was shot and leaking. So now I'm suspecting it's the control arms on my E90 so eventually plan to upgrade to the M3 arms.

I ordered some parts for the car but haven't installed them. I had some house projects and cycling team obligations. Looking forward to tearing the car apart and fixing the vibration issue.

[xBr0k3n]

I'm only replying to this as my account wont let me do anything unless I reply to something. However, I have this exact issue.

Probably had it for 4 years as there was judder present when I bought the car although on a small test drive it wasnt noticable. I've replaced almost everything but still after 1000miles on discs it comes back with avengeance - whats worse is I have AP brakes so my discs are super pricey.

I almost want to sell the car, but then I dont want to pass the issue on. I have found a few threads online of people having this issue but no one solves it, so that makes me sort of want to be the one to find the missing link... Eitherway I will post my own topic as soon as my account lets me.

[Soravia]

My old E90 had rotor warp but didn't come back after replacement rotor and pads up front.
Current 60k car with original rotor has minor warp as well, but expected due to mileage and corrosion from road salt. I hope the USED 335i calipers with new brass pins and new pads and rotors from Duralast will fix it.

With all that done, might as well have replaced the front subframe along with all the arms, suspension bits, brake rotors etc.

Wagons are heavy, xDrive Wagon even more so.
I think they should have made these wagons with X3 brakes from day one. The front spindle/kingpin is steel ones from X3 and X1 anyway.

[ramp]

Keep me posted if a solution has been discovered. dealing with same issue. 2011 e91.

[ramp]

Replaced both calipers, rotors and pads left the same. flushed brake fluid.
90% better braking.

[ramp]

Today I replaced both calipers, left rotors and pads alone. Flushed brake fluid.
The braking is about 90% improved. Shall monitor.