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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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new to the forum with a 335d that knocks
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02-10-2020, 12:10 PM | #23 |
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I think I've got an interesting road ahead of me here....either really expensive to fix with replacement engine or selling for a major loss. I hate to even ask but are people parting these cars out yet?
I've got some oil dribbling through a filter right now...I'll see what I find later. I ran a very strong magnet through oil that i dribbled into a pan out of filter and didn't pick up anything. Rambling....need to be patient and wait for oil analysis. |
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02-10-2020, 12:31 PM | #24 |
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Yeah people are parting them out- mostly junk yards that grab them from auctions.
Tons on Car-part.com and others out there. The problem is 335D doesn't come up in a default list...so you need to choose 335i (as that seems their only way to list them) and then look in the details, or choose diesel in the next step. |
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02-10-2020, 12:45 PM | #25 | |
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Quote:
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02-10-2020, 12:57 PM | #26 |
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Oh, I never noticed that thanks. Usually I'd find cars through a regular search and grab the VIN and throw it in google. Many times you can see what auction the car came from and how much was paid for it.
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02-13-2020, 11:55 AM | #27 | |
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Quote:
Yes, I'm a mechanical engineer but first and foremost, I'm a Mopar gear head and my 440 is also internal balanced. It's not in the barracuda right now though. Last edited by BB_cuda; 02-13-2020 at 12:05 PM.. |
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02-13-2020, 12:34 PM | #28 |
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Appreciate the clarification. I'm far from an engineer or mechanic...just have a little knowledge acquired from making lots of mistakes.
Curious what your take is on why the motor quiets down without the damper in place...especially given that its internally balanced. (I ran it at idle for 30 seconds without) |
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02-26-2020, 05:24 PM | #30 |
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Have you replaced the dampener for a new or known good unit yet?
Glad the oil sample was good. Yeah, drive it. Keep an eye/ear on it. Double check everything if noises or behaviour changes. Track oil and coolant consumption, if any. If it all checks OK, turn the stereo up! |
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02-26-2020, 05:27 PM | #31 |
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I guess that's maybe next thing to do. I wish I could find someone who has a decent one sitting in their garage I could try before I buy one. The one I have is only about 15k miles old though. Right now I've got the thing up in the air and party dismantled ready to drop the subframe and oil pan. Was expecting a bad report.
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02-26-2020, 05:43 PM | #32 |
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How much is a used one on ebay, etc? Would be nice to get a new one, but a used one should at least tell you if you've found the culprit for the noise.
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02-26-2020, 05:47 PM | #33 |
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02-26-2020, 06:04 PM | #35 |
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02-26-2020, 06:20 PM | #36 |
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Beware:
OEM = made by a company who maybe once made a part for a (any!) car brand. Literally 'Original Equipment Manufacturer'; a company who manufactures original equipment parts (for anybody). OE = made by the manufacturer who supply/supplied that part to BMW (or whichever brand you're looking at) for that specific car. Literally 'Original Equipment'; it's the part the car was originally built with. |
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03-31-2020, 02:50 PM | #38 |
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Your damper is 10 years old. You never did tell us how many miles are on the original one. I would get another one and see if noise is gone after installing it. Even if you didn't have the noise problem, the damper was going to need changing eventually.
I proactively changed mine to a Fluidamper and was one of the unfortunate souls to get one from the bad lot. The central hub cracked in about 300 miles. I could tell by the sound of the idle being different. Three of the 4 screws had loosened but no damaged had happened. I've seen pictures of people that didn't catch the Fluidamper crack where all 4 screws are sheared off. Trying to say Fluidamper problems have been sorted out. I saw a guy on FB page that was selling his and wanted to go back to normal OE type. His name is Sunny. I'll ask if he has sold it. |
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04-11-2020, 10:41 AM | #40 |
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Motor is out and on the engine stand. I pulled the oil pan and it looks really clean...just one chuck which I think is plastic.
After some serious organizing and garage cleanup I am going to get the timing cover off first and then start inspecting bearings. Anyone care to provide some suggestions of everything I should be proactively replacing while I have this motor out? I've never been this deep or even close so I'm open to any help. |
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04-11-2020, 12:30 PM | #41 |
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If you've gone that far you could just as well do all new seals and timing chains/guides. That may be where that plastic came from. And if you're checking bearings, you will need now rod and main bolts.
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04-11-2020, 01:45 PM | #42 |
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I'm thinking new bearings no matter what since I have it apart.
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04-11-2020, 02:41 PM | #43 |
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get ready for a shock....OEM bearings are quite pricey. There are several aftermarket options if no damage is found, but they are not nearly as specific as OEMs are.
https://parts.bmwofsouthatlanta.com/...engine--engine Notice the colors....machined to different specs even in the same size range. Just went through a rebuild, WAY more expensive then your typical rebuild. BUT you can get decent used motors in the 3-3500 range. Checkout specialized German on eBay, prices include delivery and they're pretty awesome to work with. |
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04-11-2020, 06:25 PM | #44 |
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So I've got an engine all torn apart right now. Bearings are rather expensive. Buying European parts through eBay is generally cheapest, but that's not quite as straight forward now. I'm just checking bearings for physical damage and using plastigage to measure clearances. No reason to replace if they are still good. Do main bearings one at a time unless you can very accurately measure and set endplay. If you're doing new mains it's not such a big deal, but if reusing rings and bearings you need to be careful that they are put back just as they were.
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