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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > BMW E90/E92/E93 3-series General Forums > Regional Forums > Australia > Australia Classifieds Section > No Longer FS: Dismantled N54 Short Motor $1,000



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      12-09-2019, 04:57 PM   #1
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No Longer FS: Dismantled N54 Short Motor $1,000

Dismantled N54 short motor suitable for someone wanting to rebuild a motor. Block and crankshaft have been checked by Wynnum Engine Reconditioning. Block has been decked 0.004". As measurement show below block will need to be bored to Stage 1 (84.250 mm). Crank has had the journals polished. Journals and bores have all been measured. New conrods and pistons would be required. As all these parts would be difficult and costly to freight, a local buyer would be preferred. $1,000.

BMW N54 Engine Measurements
Crankshaft Main Bearing Journals N54 B30
Ground sizes of main bearing journals Main bearing journal
Original (designation S1) 55.998...55.993 mm
Original (designation S2) 55.992...55.987 mm
Original (designation S3) 55.986...55.981 mm
Crankshaft bearing clearance, radial 0.020...0.046 mm
Max. permitted runout at centre crankshaft journal 0.15 mm

Main Bearing Journals (Crankshaft) Main Tunnels (Block)
1. 55.982 S3 61.993
2. 55.990 S2 61.993
3. 55.995 S1 61.993
4. 55.994 S1 61.995
5. 55.992 S2 61.992
6. 55.992 S1 61.992
7. 64.987 S2 61.990
Crankshaft Conrod Journals N54 B30
Ground sizes of conrod bearing journals
Stage (b) 49.9730 ... 49.9834 mm
Stage (r) 49.9835 ... 49.9930 mm
Radial conrod bearing play 0.025 ... 0.070 mm

Crankshaft Conrod Journals
1. 49.985 Stage (r)
2. 49.990 Stage (r)
3. 49.987 Stage (r)
4. 49.987 Stage (r)
5. 49.990 Stage (r)
6. 49.985 Stage (r)
Engine Block Cylinders N54 B30
Bore ∅ stage 0a) 84,000+0,02 mm
Bore ∅ stage 00 a)
Bore ∅ stage 1 a) 84,250+0,02 mm
Permitted out-of-round of cylinder bore a) 0,01 mm
Permitted conicity of cylinder bore a) 0,01 mm
Permissible total wear tolerance between piston and cylinder (engine operated) 0,15 mm

All Bores are 84 + 0.025-0.05 mm


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Last edited by Coupes33; 04-26-2021 at 09:28 PM..
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      12-10-2019, 12:55 AM   #2
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Why you selling Coupes??
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      12-10-2019, 02:16 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Socket View Post
Why you selling Coupes??
I was considering rebuilding it but to do it to my standard was going to cost around $12,000. That included forged conrods & pistons, ARP bolts throughout the engine; new gaskets, seals, timing chain, oil pump chain & aluminium bolts; Schrick low lift camshafts, ledges and VAC Stage 2 head. The exhaust camshaft out of my old engine has a lobe that is pitted all round it so would need replacement anyway. This is the reason for the Schrick camshafts. Also, there is no point forking out heaps of money for an engine that is more reliable but has no performance advantage. It would cost just as much to buy and import a Ghassan built 800 hp engine which costs $6,990 US. That is the reason I am selling this engine Socks. I will leave my current engine as is at the moment.

Last edited by Coupes33; 12-10-2019 at 04:04 PM..
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      12-10-2019, 02:32 PM   #4
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Hard to pass on the Ghassan engines
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      04-26-2021, 09:28 PM   #5
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No longer for sale as rebuilding engine
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      04-27-2021, 04:20 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by Coupes33 View Post
No longer for sale as rebuilding engine
Oh really....
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      04-27-2021, 06:04 PM   #7
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Oh really....
Yes, I decided to keep the Beemer and do some more work on it. I have the head away getting ported, polished and refurbished. The bottom end is at Prestige and Performance getting forged rods and pistons and assembled. After installing this engine, I will go back to 100% E85 and see if I can improve on my 10.7s time. I would also like to get the exhaust flowing better but without droning or excessive noise.
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      04-28-2021, 03:21 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coupes33 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aus335iguy View Post
Oh really....
Yes, I decided to keep the Beemer and do some more work on it. I have the head away getting ported, polished and refurbished. The bottom end is at Prestige and Performance getting forged rods and pistons and assembled. After installing this engine, I will go back to 100% E85 and see if I can improve on my 10.7s time. I would also like to get the exhaust flowing better but without droning or excessive noise.
Awesome stuff!! Best of luck with it.
Regarding the exhaust I've often thought about exactly that.
Two ideas came to mind.
1st. stock exhaust with exhaust cutouts and appropriate mapping on the exhaust valves so that it's Jekyll and Hyde when I need it to be(the sport button switching has been mapped out now in CAN messages and in the tune so it's achievable

2nd figure out the stock exhaust resonant frequency notch and replicate that with a larger diameter system

also just go balls out front guard exit. But I'm a fucken gentleman.
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      04-28-2021, 04:00 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aus335iguy View Post
Awesome stuff!! Best of luck with it.
Regarding the exhaust I've often thought about exactly that.
Two ideas came to mind.
1st. stock exhaust with exhaust cutouts and appropriate mapping on the exhaust valves so that it's Jekyll and Hyde when I need it to be(the sport button switching has been mapped out now in CAN messages and in the tune so it's achievable

2nd figure out the stock exhaust resonant frequency notch and replicate that with a larger diameter system

also just go balls out front guard exit. But I'm a fucken gentleman.
Currently, I am running a stock exhaust system with 200cpsi secondary cats from the downpipes back. A twin 2.75" exhaust would be ideal but choosing the right mufflers is the problem. I believe my current set up is creating too much back pressure which is killing the top end performance and assisting in bending the rods. Without testing the system, this is just an assumption which may not be correct. Pressure testing the system would be the way to go. A couple of 3" Varex mufflers would work well as you can adjust from fully open for the drags to closed/partially closed for the street.

Last edited by Coupes33; 04-28-2021 at 04:07 AM..
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      04-28-2021, 04:56 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coupes33 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aus335iguy View Post
Awesome stuff!! Best of luck with it.
Regarding the exhaust I've often thought about exactly that.
Two ideas came to mind.
1st. stock exhaust with exhaust cutouts and appropriate mapping on the exhaust valves so that it's Jekyll and Hyde when I need it to be(the sport button switching has been mapped out now in CAN messages and in the tune so it's achievable

2nd figure out the stock exhaust resonant frequency notch and replicate that with a larger diameter system

also just go balls out front guard exit. But I'm a fucken gentleman.
Currently, I am running a stock exhaust system with 200cpsi secondary cats from the downpipes back. A twin 2.75" exhaust would be ideal but choosing the right mufflers is the problem. I believe my current set up is creating too much back pressure which is killing the top end performance and assisting in bending the rods. Without testing the system, this is just an assumption which may not be correct. Pressure testing the system would be the way to go. A couple of 3" Varex mufflers would work well as you can adjust from fully open for the drags to closed/partially closed for the street.
I would've thought that if a rod was going to bend that the back pressure from the exhaust wouldn't be the reason. I mean they have to withstand cylinder pressures on compression stroke; surely the exhaust could t be THAT restrictive ?

I did read on spool street that aggressively tuned twins can produce really high cylinder pressures that can bend rods ?
I think it was v8bait posted it... could it be that ?
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      04-29-2021, 04:24 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aus335iguy View Post
I would've thought that if a rod was going to bend that the back pressure from the exhaust wouldn't be the reason. I mean they have to withstand cylinder pressures on compression stroke; surely the exhaust could t be THAT restrictive ?

I did read on spool street that aggressively tuned twins can produce really high cylinder pressures that can bend rods ?
I think it was v8bait posted it... could it be that ?
I read or saw a youtube video where it stated a restrictive exhaust will increase the backpressure between the turbo and exhaust valve which can result in bent rods. I know you cannot believe more than 50% of what you read and watch in videos. But all of the books and videos state larger exhausts are better for turbo engines.

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      04-29-2021, 05:19 AM   #12
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I can certainly understand why a bigger exhaust post turbine would be beneficial. It's all about pressure difference after all. The bigger the difference pre and post turbine the more torque you create on the turbo shaft and the more air the compressor can move.....

If you've got a link to the video where they mention the rods I'd like to learn more ?
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      04-29-2021, 03:33 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aus335iguy View Post
I can certainly understand why a bigger exhaust post turbine would be beneficial. It's all about pressure difference after all. The bigger the difference pre and post turbine the more torque you create on the turbo shaft and the more air the compressor can move.....

If you've got a link to the video where they mention the rods I'd like to learn more ?
Yes I will do that if I can find it again. Looking at that graph that I attached to the previous post, in my case, my car on 100% E85 produced 553whp on a Dyno Dynamic dyno which is approx 650 hp at the crank. From that graph, I should have a twin 3" exhaust. As the reference book is from the US, the crank hp numbers in the graph are probably Dynojet numbers which makes running an OEM exhaust even worse. The OEM exhaust is less than 2.5" so is only good for less than 500hp at the crank.
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