[LimpBimmer]

Got round to doing the timing chain today on my N43. Time to start fishing for parts out of the sump. There's a lot of plastic missing!

This is all that came out when I removed the chain / guide!

[F31B48]

If i were you i would remove the sump. All those pieces will be stuck in the oil pickup. There is no way to remove them properly without removing the sump. If you don't get all of them out the engine will be starved of oil and it will eventually cause engine failure. It is quite a common problem for this engine.

[wrongmark]

I’ve been thinking of having a go at this on my N43. That looks very broken. Out of interest what sort of mileage and service history have you got?

[LimpBimmer]

Originally Posted by wrongmark

I’ve been thinking of having a go at this on my N43. That looks very broken. Out of interest what sort of mileage and service history have you got?

It's been pretty well mullered.
I got the car a bit over a year ago, complete with 95k miles, no service history and an oil pressure warning.
I really should have fixed this sooner!

So far, the upper chain isn't turning out to be a bad job. Going to take the sump off today (which should be done at part of the upper chain process anyway), clear it and do the oil chain. Should be interesting to see what's in the sump!

General advice seems to be that the chains are only good for 60k miles. At that point, the tensioner has to be done at the very least. If there are any signs at all that the chain has stretched then the chain and guides have to be done.

If you do change yours, let me know. Looks like I might be pretty close to you - I've got the timing kit if you want to borrow it

[LimpBimmer]

Today was sump-off day

Unfortunately some of the pieces I pulled out of the oil feed pipe (the pic of bits on the ground) were miniscule so it's likely that they're all through the oil system. Goddamit

[lordbmw]

Looks like chocolate pieces 😁

[LimpBimmer]

Originally Posted by lordbmw

Looks like chocolate pieces 😁

Chocolate would be easier to deal with, although more confusing as to why it was in the sump

[KnighTT]

This doesn't really help but that sump is a clear indication that this car was very poorly maintained. I have pulled 3 different n54 oil pans with over 150k miles and they have an amber patina, and maybe some buildup here and there, but that sump is jet black. (unless that sump has an inner black coating for some weird reason)

Clear signs of poor oil change intervals, cheap oils, or all of the above.

If that engine only has 95k miles....it was not taken care of. I say this as I would be looking over the car for signs of other issues worth taking care of before there are more issues.

[LimpBimmer]

Originally Posted by KnighTT

unless that sump has an inner black coating

Which indeed it is coated black inside and out

[JonOhh]

Originally Posted by KnighTT

This doesn't really help but that sump is a clear indication that this car was very poorly maintained. I have pulled 3 different n54 oil pans with over 150k miles and they have an amber patina, and maybe some buildup here and there, but that sump is jet black. (unless that sump has an inner black coating for some weird reason)

Clear signs of poor oil change intervals, cheap oils, or all of the above.

If that engine only has 95k miles....it was not taken care of. I say this as I would be looking over the car for signs of other issues worth taking care of before there are more issues.

You're right about the dark coating. This appears to be the steel pan, which has a coat of black paint inside and out.

[wrongmark]

Originally Posted by LimpBimmer

General advice seems to be that the chains are only good for 60k miles. At that point, the tensioner has to be done at the very least. If there are any signs at all that the chain has stretched then the chain and guides have to be done.

If you do change yours, let me know. Looks like I might be pretty close to you - I've got the timing kit if you want to borrow it

That’s a very generous offer, I may well take you up on that. I replaced the tensioner a few years back as I got a slight noise when cold at certain RPMs. Not had any issues since but would like to do this time permitting. The bit that’s putting me off is dropping the sub frame to get the oil sump out. Also don’t want to spill oil on my new drive.

[LimpBimmer]

Originally Posted by wrongmark

That’s a very generous offer, I may well take you up on that. I replaced the tensioner a few years back as I got a slight noise when cold at certain RPMs. Not had any issues since but would like to do this time permitting. The bit that’s putting me off is dropping the sub frame to get the oil sump out. Also don’t want to spill oil on my new drive.

No worries. Let me know.

The sump wasn't a bad job, it's just a bit awkward laying on the driveway.
If the guide comes out in one piece then there's no absolute need to take off the sump (although it is advisable). You just need to be gentle when removing / reinstalling the chain and guide. Without removing the sump, the chain and guide can be done in day.

[wrongmark]

A while ago I was toying with the idea of using an inspection camera in the sump to see if there were any bits of guid in there (without dropping the sump). Do you think this might be possible through the oil sensor hole?

[RayLivingston]

FWIW - It is entirely possible to set the cam timing properly without using ANY special tools. I've done it many times...

[F31B48]

Originally Posted by RayLivingston

FWIW - It is entirely possible to set the cam timing properly without using ANY special tools. I've done it many times...

On which engine? N43?

[RayLivingston]

I've done it many time on M54. I would assume the process is quite similar on later ones. I did it the first time mostly out of necessity - I didn't have the tools, but had to rebuild the VANOS. I studied the service manual, to understand exactly what the point of the tools was, and just improvised. As it turned out, the base position is not exceedingly critical, and VANOS has more range than is actually needed. I used a straight-edge to get the cams aligned properly (the flats across the top of the cams must be exactly co-planar. In that position, the exhaust helical "cup" had ~1mm of the helix showing, and the intake "cup" was pushed all the way in. Then just put the VANOS in place, and tighten it all up. I've probably done it 4-5 times now, and never had a fault. When I watch the cam timing in INPA, it is always spot-on the target.

[LimpBimmer]

Originally Posted by wrongmark

A while ago I was toying with the idea of using an inspection camera in the sump to see if there were any bits of guid in there (without dropping the sump). Do you think this might be possible through the oil sensor hole?

I'd guess that an inspection camera won't work well.
With the oil drained it's still pretty black and the pieces might not be that big.
If your car is getting to the point where a new chain is needed then inspect the guide as it comes out. If it's broken up then you know the sump has to come off