[328tom3]

Firstly, thank you for picking up on my thread. Currently trying to prove to my family that I didn't waste my money buying a bimmer lol.
Secondly, so my window regulator for my rear driver side went out (I could tell by the cracking noise whenever I tried to roll it down. I replaced it and now whenever I try to roll it up it will roll up in segments, like it would roll up a couple inches and then i'd have to press it again as holding the button down wouldnt do anything. I heard about resetting the regulator system by rolling it all the way up and then holding the window in an upward for 15 seconds. I did that and it actually did work and rolled back down just like the comfort access would allow yet once it went all the way down it would not want to go back up at all, almost like something is stuck but I checked and didnt seem to have anything blocking it.
Thirdly, I dont know if this problem leaches off antoher problem but the door will no longer lock or unlock by keyfob or button. I didnt mess with the lock actuator or anything which is why im confused since the door used to work prior to taking off the panel and disecting the door.
If anyone could help me with this Id greatly appreciate it.
My car is a 328i 2007 BMW

[Hoody007]

Couple of thoughts:

1. Will the window go up at all? Are you sure the little plastic tab is attached to the window?
2. Do you have a K+DCAN Cable? If so, I’d use INPA to initialize the windows - pretty foolproof way to initialize it.

You say the door lock actuator isn’t working - does the car think the door is still open? If it does, you won’t be able to roll the window up with the comfort access system. Try pulling the door card off again and verify the actuator is actually plugged in - you need to disconnect it when removing the vapor barrier, and it’s possible its not plugged in correctly.

Hope that helps!

[328tom3]

Originally Posted by Hoody007

Couple of thoughts:

1. Will the window go up at all? Are you sure the little plastic tab is attached to the window?
2. Do you have a K+DCAN Cable? If so, I'd use INPA to initialize the windows - pretty foolproof way to initialize it.

You say the door lock actuator isn't working - does the car think the door is still open? If it does, you won't be able to roll the window up with the comfort access system. Try pulling the door card off again and verify the actuator is actually plugged in - you need to disconnect it when removing the vapor barrier, and it's possible its not plugged in correctly.

Hope that helps!

hey thank you for the reply
1. Yes the window is attached to the little mechanism tab and now that I notice the window will go up a couple centimeters and automatically go back down within a matter of 2 seconds. The wire I'm pointing is the regulator and I notice that can see it try to shorten but lengthens since it can't go up.
2. I actually don't have a K+DCAN Cable but if that's what will fix the problem I could go get that

As for my door, it will unlock but not lock. I checked the cable and I have it connected to near the actuator.

[328tom3]

Originally Posted by 328tom3

hey thank you for the reply
1. Yes the window is attached to the little mechanism tab and now that I notice the window will go up a couple centimeters and automatically go back down within a matter of 2 seconds. The wire I'm pointing is the regulator and I notice that can see it try to shorten but lengthens since it can't go up.
2. I actually don't have a K+DCAN Cable but if that's what will fix the problem I could go get that

As for my door, it will unlock but not lock. I checked the cable and I have it connected to near the actuator.

Here is how it looks if that also helps

[SMazza]

Hi. Regarding the door lock: Is the door lock rod jammed somehow? (The metal rod with the white clip at one end, near the rear of the door.) If that is somehow bound up when you put the panel back together, it might stop the actuator from operating correctly.

Regarding the window, I would ask, is the replacement regulator a OEM BMW part, or an aftermarket? I replaced one or both rear regulators on my car with aftermarket parts, and one of the replacements rolls back down if you start it from the very bottom. If I "bump" the window switch up once or twice, the regulator gets over the trouble spot, and then it works fine from that point. I forget if the offending part is from Uro or Dorman - I think I used one of each? Not sure.

It looks like the aftermarket parts may have slightly different tension. This makes them trigger the safety mechanism that rolls the window back down when it hits something (like a child's arm or neck).

There is a process to calibrate the car's computer to the new window regulator. The process is described here: https://www.bmwfanatics.co.za/showthread.php?tid=34346. I tried this and it made no difference in my situation.

You can try lubricating the window channels and see if it reduces or evens out the tension enough to avoid triggering the safety mechanism. It didn't really make a difference for me. But it probably won't hurt.

The goofy regulator bothers me a little, but I decided to live with it for now. It'll reduce my environmental impact by 1 window regulator's worth if nothing else. I think it was about 1/3 the price of an OEM one, so I saved a bunch of money. If it fails soon, I will get a warranty replacement.

[bmwbob89]

Find the post I've been on a few days ago. Mine were the window motors.