[andrew2cu]

With heat on, I would get a squealing noise from the vents at 20-80% and then got in my car today and started it up and nothing was blowing at all. Was wondering if it would be the blower motor itself or the regulator. I have a 2011 328i. I’ve seen DIYs for both and am going to do the work myself but I want to make sure I order the right part before I waste money on one and it be the other. Any help is greatly appreciated

[ctuna]

There was and electrical recall for the connectors related to the
blower motor. .

[andrew2cu]

Originally Posted by ctuna

There was and electrical recall for the connectors related to the
blower motor. .

The one from 2017? Got the car in 2019 from a BMW dealership, that should’ve been taken care of, no?

[ctuna]

They have a recall Vin checker.
They can't force people to come in to do a recall you know.

[andrew2cu]

Checked VIN, no open recalls. Checked fuses, they’re okay. Fan doesn’t blow even at full speed, so assuming the blower motor but wanted a second opinion so I don’t waste money

[ctuna]

FCPeuro for parts.
I don't think the motor itself is that expensive also
BMW's used to have trouble with the blower motor resistor
going out.
A visual inspection it probably the first thing to do.
I doubt this is related but have you checked the Cabin Filter lately.

[andrew2cu]

Originally Posted by ctuna

They have a recall Vin checker.
They can't force people to come in to do a recall you know.

I know they can’t, but I got it from a BMW dealership, if there was an open recall on the car, you think a BMW dealership would fix it was my point.

[andrew2cu]

Originally Posted by ctuna

FCPeuro for parts.
I don't think the motor itself is that expensive also
BMW's used to have trouble with the blower motor resistor
going out.
A visual inspection it probably the first thing to do.
I doubt this is related but have you checked the Cabin Filter lately.

Yes, cabin filters are good. Motor is only $100, but the resistor is also close to $100 so I didn’t want a $100 fix to become a $200 fix.

[e90yyc]

Originally Posted by andrew2cu

I know they can’t, but I got it from a BMW dealership, if there was an open recall on the car, you think a BMW dealership would fix it was my point.

They would. Unless things are different in the States—doubtful given it’s probably BMW NA calling the shots—in Canada the dealer I worked at was required, I believe, to complete any outstanding recalls prior to reselling the vehicle.

Curious whether the blower runs when you press the front defrost button?

[andy_06xi]

OEM supplier Valeo motor + regulator for $106:

https://www.autohausaz.com/pn/144366...xoCpsEQAvD_BwE

[lowrydr310]

Originally Posted by andy_06xi

OEM supplier Valeo motor + regular for $106:

https://www.autohausaz.com/pn/144366...xoCpsEQAvD_BwE

Incredible find! I own two E90s and both suffer from blower motor squeal/chirp. The 325 is much worse doing it almost constantly, despite about 10 attempts removing it and trying different oils. The 330 isn't nearly as bad (yet.)

I bought a used one from a salvage yard for $35 and I guess it's missing the balancing weights because it sounds like it's about to self-destruct. $$$ wasted when I could have gotten that new one for just over $100.

[coz_mo]

Hard to say. Personally, I wouldn't go buy parts before diagnosing.

Could be rusting/sized motor bearings, something stuck in fan, bad resistor, etc..

You can take out the motor and just jumper it see if it spins, if not try PB blaster on the shaft or consider changing the resistor.

You could also see if it's getting power while playing around with the fan settings.

But worth going in for the wiring recall incase something is wonky (if you haven't already).

I'm still having intermittent problems, and I changed my motor, resistor, and did the recall. So there must be something else that can go wrong.

[M-technik-3]

Mine has recently started to chirp, I'd like to do it soon as it's winter and the noise from time to time irritates me.

[Clammy]

Typical bearing noise/behaviour from the blower motor. You can oil the bearings, or replace the motor. I've done both. There are youtube vids that show exactly where to put the oil.

The real problem is water getting into the motor bearings. Check the seal at the bottom of the windshield. That's where the water gets in, in these situations.

Cheers!

[jacbo]

Originally Posted by lowrydr310

Incredible find! I own two E90s and both suffer from blower motor squeal/chirp. The 325 is much worse doing it almost constantly, despite about 10 attempts removing it and trying different oils. The 330 isn't nearly as bad (yet.)

I bought a used one from a salvage yard for $35 and I guess it's missing the balancing weights because it sounds like it's about to self-destruct. $$$ wasted when I could have gotten that new one for just over $100.

I found that oil, grease or any other lubricant seems to be a temporary fix for these blowers. Got new one in the end and well worth the cost as the noise was driving me mad

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by andrew2cu

... got in my car today and started it up and nothing was blowing at all. Was wondering if it would be the blower motor itself or the regulator. I have a 2011 328i. I’ve seen DIYs for both and am going to do the work myself but I want to make sure I order the right part before I waste money on one and it be the other.

While the "squealing noise" suggests your blower motor bearing was on its way out, likely from water in plenum due to leaking cowl seal on Upper Microfilter Housing, or plugged condensate drain tubes at Evaporator, I would STILL test Motor BEFORE ordering replacement. You CAN test your existing blower motor BEFORE throwing parts:

0) Check fuse F88 for 12V+, unswitched, Terminal 30 Battery powered;

1) Remove the trim panel above passenger footwell; T-20 fasteners; disconnect footwell light;

2) Remove and carefully examine the 4-pin connector, X18722, shown in attached ISTA Documents; Look for any melted insulation or other wiring damage, particularly the Red/Violet B+ wire at Pin #2, and the Brown Ground wire at Pin #1; TEST for continuity to ground at Brown wire/ Pin#1, and for 12V+ battery voltage at Red/Violet wire/ Pin#2;

3) If NO issue with 1) or 2) above, proceed as follows (can probably do this WITHOUT removing motor):
a) examine the Motor, and note the Red (B+) wire and the Brown (Ground) wire. You SHOULD be able to disconnect those wires from the Motor; NOTE which motor "Pin" the red wire connects to;
b) use Patch cables (alligator clips) to apply: (i) B+ voltage to Motor pin where Red wire was, and (ii) Ground to Motor pin where Brown wire was; If you have a separate 12V Power supply handy, just use that; Of course if you have B+ at Pin #2 of X18722 (Blower Resistor Connector), just apply jumper to THAT.

4) Download/Install ISTA so you can get this and MUCH MORE information related to YOUR particular Model. Document Search works with NO connection to internet OR your vehicle. Just enter Last-7 VIN and your "In".

Maybe I'm just CHEAP, but I believe in ALWAYS testing: (1) to prevent throwing parts, and (2) to actually DIAGNOSE what caused the issue instead of ASSuming.

ISTA Screens will be attached to next post so as NOT to destroy margins here.

George

[gbalthrop]

Attached are ISTA ScreenPrints showing Blower (M30), Resistor (N2) Wiring & Component Location

The 2nd ScreenPrint shows Connector View of Connector X18722 at the Resistor.

George

[Efthreeoh]

I wrote the original DIY in the DIY section in December 2010, maybe that's one of the DIY's you reviewed.

What I would do is remove the upper cabin air filter housing. Then you can see the blower motor fan. With the HVAC on, take a wood stick and try to rotate the blower fan to kick start it. If it was squealing recently, then it's most likely the fan motor has dead spots in it or the bearing is frozen up. If the motor kicks on, then you know the resistor pack is good. The fan should always work on high speed (in defroster mode) because that is an electrical circuit that bypasses the resistor pack.

The design of the blower fan/motor sucks. My theory is over time the bearings rust up. They rust up because the motor shaft is vertical, so when water vapor condenses on it, water drips down into the motor bearings eventually rusting them and causing the squeal. I'm on my 4th blower motor and it has just started to squeal this winter. My car has never had a water infiltration issue, which is why I believe the vertical shaft design is what lets the bearing get wet and rust. Horizontal blower motors do not have this problem. The E21, E30, E36, and E46 all use the same basic horizontal blower architecture and none have the E90 squealing blower motor issue.