335xi oil pan removal--ahhhhh!!!

Farroar · 10-12-2017, 09:55 AM

I've been digging all over to find info on how to deal with this issue. Of course, all of you know about the leaky oil pan issue on our cars. I started the project using this DIY...

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1211290

The only (Big) issue is the fact that his car isn't a turbo. Getting into it there is one bolt that seems impossible to remove unless you drop the entire exhaust assembly. ONE EFFING BOLT!!! is behind the exhaust down pipe.

I might be way over my head on this and I'm prepared to throw in the towel but since it's on jacks and ready to go I figured I'd just check in with you friendly folks to see if anyone else has been crazy enough to do this.

Donutz · 10-12-2017, 01:13 PM

Do you have pics of the bolt? Is removing the bolt an issue because of the tools you have?

Given the work you've done to this point, dropping the exhaust isn't a big deal. I would just drop it if that's necessary.

Farroar · 10-12-2017, 01:54 PM

I'll have to take a picture and send it along. I have tools (extensions, wobble adapters, etc..) there just isn't room to move around. I'm going to take another look here shortly.

Farroar · 10-12-2017, 02:13 PM

Here are the images. You can see the bolt behind the exhaust pipe

ucdbiendog · 10-12-2017, 03:16 PM

is that the bolt for the half-shaft pedestal? didnt think that needs to be removed...

JuniorB · 10-12-2017, 09:06 PM

Wrong bolt! All the oilpan bolts are reverse torx, that's to the front diff/ housing. If you took off the pan bolts, you would see there all the same head, length is different.

Farroar · 10-13-2017, 06:52 AM

I know that is not one of the bolts that attaches the oil pan to the engine, for sure! Like ucdbiendog said, that is for the pedestal that attaches to the oil pan. It supports the passenger side axel.

I thought that it needed to be removed but now the more I think of it, you are right, I don't think you do. There is a whole separate gasket 'schmoo' between the pedestal and oil pan that I don't want to deal with anyhow.

Another quick one:

do you have to remove the stabilizer bar? across the front of the subframe. I'm hoping that there is a way that will allow it to 'swing' down and not just come off completely.

JuniorB · 10-13-2017, 06:23 PM

The way it sounded,is that you were not sure, you have to pull the subframe if I'm not mistaken to pull the pan off

Farroar · 10-13-2017, 06:35 PM

Oh, I’m sure of that fact. The subframe needs to be dropped like it’s hot.

It’s just a matter of getting half way in and needing to pull out... this is my first time doing this job (yeah, that was inappropriate, I’m aware).

The walkthrough (link above) is fantastic, but the subtle difference of my car being turbo may change everything. But outside of there being a charge pipe, larger exhaust, the turbos, and the inter cooler I don’t think there is much difference.

JuniorB · 10-13-2017, 07:03 PM

Actually no, I pulled my n54 out of my 535xi and found what was involved when I separated it from the subframe. Once it's out of the way, you can blast them off with a 18v driver. So,e say you have to buy new hardware, because they are not super tight, this may be an option to some. If your already up there, pull a conn bearing and inspect it. It's one of the first to go when an injector goes

Farroar · 10-13-2017, 08:04 PM

Okay, so you’re saying that it should be the same, yes? You pulled your entire engine out? I did that with my E30 but that was FAR easier. Great car to work on!

I’ve got new bolts for the oil pan if that is what you mean. They are aluminum so they should be replaced. Especially since I don’t want to ever get back down there again.

Btw, what is the “conn bearing”?

Farroar · 10-13-2017, 08:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JuniorB

Wrong bolt! All the oilpan bolts are reverse torx, that's to the front diff/ housing. If you took off the pan bolts, you would see there all the same head, length is different.

Yeah, I know that isn’t for the oil pan, but it is connected to the oil pan. It is the pedestal. The passenger side axel goes through that and through the oil pan. Strange design, they really packed stuff in there tight. It’ll have to come out with the pan. The differential is on the drivers side, also bolted to the oil pan.

I’m going to drop the differential out as well to replace the o-rings as well as the seals. Might as well while I’m in there.

Any thoughts on a DIY ball joint separator?

JuniorB · 10-13-2017, 08:34 PM

You can rent a pick style from a store, sometimes you can pop it with a dead blow hammer, but its aluminum. Ya there front axle set up is a c--t! , never saw anything like it till I saw it. It's definitely a good size job, take your time, and be patient.

10-12-2017, 09:55 AM	#1
Farroar Private 17 Rep 60 Posts Drives: 2019 G05 xDrive40i Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: MA iTrader: (0)	335xi oil pan removal--ahhhhh!!! I've been digging all over to find info on how to deal with this issue. Of course, all of you know about the leaky oil pan issue on our cars. I started the project using this DIY... http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1211290 The only (Big) issue is the fact that his car isn't a turbo. Getting into it there is one bolt that seems impossible to remove unless you drop the entire exhaust assembly. ONE EFFING BOLT!!! is behind the exhaust down pipe. I might be way over my head on this and I'm prepared to throw in the towel but since it's on jacks and ready to go I figured I'd just check in with you friendly folks to see if anyone else has been crazy enough to do this.
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10-12-2017, 01:13 PM	#2
Donutz Lieutenant 140 Rep 476 Posts Drives: 335i Join Date: Sep 2015 Location: Toronto, eh iTrader: (2)	Do you have pics of the bolt? Is removing the bolt an issue because of the tools you have? Given the work you've done to this point, dropping the exhaust isn't a big deal. I would just drop it if that's necessary.
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10-12-2017, 01:54 PM	#3
Farroar Private 17 Rep 60 Posts Drives: 2019 G05 xDrive40i Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: MA iTrader: (0)	I'll have to take a picture and send it along. I have tools (extensions, wobble adapters, etc..) there just isn't room to move around. I'm going to take another look here shortly.
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10-12-2017, 02:13 PM	#4
Farroar Private 17 Rep 60 Posts Drives: 2019 G05 xDrive40i Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: MA iTrader: (0)	Here are the images. You can see the bolt behind the exhaust pipe Attached Images
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10-12-2017, 03:16 PM	#5
ucdbiendog Captain 91 Rep 610 Posts Drives: 2008 335xi E90 Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Reno, NV iTrader: (0)	is that the bolt for the half-shaft pedestal? didnt think that needs to be removed...
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10-12-2017, 09:06 PM	#6
JuniorB Major 185 Rep 1,017 Posts Drives: 07 e60 525 N54 Join Date: Mar 2016 Location: Rhode Island iTrader: (0)	Wrong bolt! All the oilpan bolts are reverse torx, that's to the front diff/ housing. If you took off the pan bolts, you would see there all the same head, length is different.
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10-13-2017, 06:52 AM	#7
Farroar Private 17 Rep 60 Posts Drives: 2019 G05 xDrive40i Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: MA iTrader: (0)	I know that is not one of the bolts that attaches the oil pan to the engine, for sure! Like ucdbiendog said, that is for the pedestal that attaches to the oil pan. It supports the passenger side axel. I thought that it needed to be removed but now the more I think of it, you are right, I don't think you do. There is a whole separate gasket 'schmoo' between the pedestal and oil pan that I don't want to deal with anyhow. Another quick one: do you have to remove the stabilizer bar? across the front of the subframe. I'm hoping that there is a way that will allow it to 'swing' down and not just come off completely.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

10-13-2017, 06:23 PM	#8
JuniorB Major 185 Rep 1,017 Posts Drives: 07 e60 525 N54 Join Date: Mar 2016 Location: Rhode Island iTrader: (0)	The way it sounded,is that you were not sure, you have to pull the subframe if I'm not mistaken to pull the pan off
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10-13-2017, 06:35 PM	#9
Farroar Private 17 Rep 60 Posts Drives: 2019 G05 xDrive40i Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: MA iTrader: (0)	Oh, I’m sure of that fact. The subframe needs to be dropped like it’s hot. It’s just a matter of getting half way in and needing to pull out... this is my first time doing this job (yeah, that was inappropriate, I’m aware). The walkthrough (link above) is fantastic, but the subtle difference of my car being turbo may change everything. But outside of there being a charge pipe, larger exhaust, the turbos, and the inter cooler I don’t think there is much difference.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

10-13-2017, 07:03 PM	#10
JuniorB Major 185 Rep 1,017 Posts Drives: 07 e60 525 N54 Join Date: Mar 2016 Location: Rhode Island iTrader: (0)	Actually no, I pulled my n54 out of my 535xi and found what was involved when I separated it from the subframe. Once it's out of the way, you can blast them off with a 18v driver. So,e say you have to buy new hardware, because they are not super tight, this may be an option to some. If your already up there, pull a conn bearing and inspect it. It's one of the first to go when an injector goes
	Appreciate 0 Quote

10-13-2017, 08:04 PM	#11
Farroar Private 17 Rep 60 Posts Drives: 2019 G05 xDrive40i Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: MA iTrader: (0)	Okay, so you’re saying that it should be the same, yes? You pulled your entire engine out? I did that with my E30 but that was FAR easier. Great car to work on! I’ve got new bolts for the oil pan if that is what you mean. They are aluminum so they should be replaced. Especially since I don’t want to ever get back down there again. Btw, what is the “conn bearing”?
	Appreciate 0 Quote

10-13-2017, 08:34 PM	#13
JuniorB Major 185 Rep 1,017 Posts Drives: 07 e60 525 N54 Join Date: Mar 2016 Location: Rhode Island iTrader: (0)	You can rent a pick style from a store, sometimes you can pop it with a dead blow hammer, but its aluminum. Ya there front axle set up is a c--t! , never saw anything like it till I saw it. It's definitely a good size job, take your time, and be patient.
	Appreciate 0 Quote