[pedro2u]

Originally Posted by fazm

I have a leak as well. I picked up a tank, but I should get a pump and it all while I'm in there.

Keep in mind, if you have headlight washers, there are 2 different pumps, windshield and headlight pumps. I happened to get lucky.

Based on my experience, when you get in there, I'm guessing you'll see it's most likely either one of the pumps or the grommet/strainer that it plugs into.

[RealJ22]

Started to refinish some of the carbon bits that needed attention.


upload images

[nsjames]

Originally Posted by pedro2u

Keep in mind, if you have headlight washers, there are 2 different pumps, windshield and headlight pumps. I happened to get lucky.

Based on my experience, when you get in there, I'm guessing you'll see it's most likely either one of the pumps or the grommet/strainer that it plugs into.

just got my replacement pump.
my JB weld repair on the OE one lasted 2 years before the washer fluid got back under it.

It's gonna be nice to put washer fluid in it and have it for more than a few days.

[fazm]

Originally Posted by pedro2u

Keep in mind, if you have headlight washers, there are 2 different pumps, windshield and headlight pumps. I happened to get lucky.

Based on my experience, when you get in there, I'm guessing you'll see it's most likely either one of the pumps or the grommet/strainer that it plugs into.

Really appreciate the heads up. Two pumps it is!

[K9Leader]

Originally Posted by fazm

Really appreciate the heads up. Two pumps it is!

And if you have a Touring (E91), there are three (another one for the rear window).

[fazm]

Woot. Three!!

[Serf27]

Found a Performance shift knob at the junkyard and cleaned it up. 6 bucks!

[Serf27]

Originally Posted by Serf27

Now it won’t start. I suspect the stupid fuel line fell off the fuel pump again.

This could have gone 1 of 2 ways.
The ground wire to the pump could have continued melting the casing until it no longer made contact and no longer completed the circuit. Resulting in no start.
OR
The ground wire could have continued melting the casing until it melted through to the positive wire and the wires could have made contact in the fuel tank. At which point, it becomes questionable if the fuse would have cut power before a fire happened!

Glad it was the former.
The black connector is fused together now..
The good folks on the n54 FB page think the red crimp connectors I used caused too much resistance. I’m hardwiring the pump directly to the top hat connector, as should everyone else installing a bigger pump. Though it’s been 3 years with this wiring and now it has failed so I can’t be 100% sure if there is something else wrong.

[StradaRedlands]

Originally Posted by Serf27

This could have gone 1 of 2 ways.
The ground wire to the pump could have continued melting the casing until it no longer made contact and no longer completed the circuit. Resulting in no start.
OR
The ground wire could have continued melting the casing until it melted through to the positive wire and the wires could have made contact in the fuel tank. At which point, it becomes questionable if the fuse would have cut power before a fire happened!

Glad it was the former.
The black connector is fused together now..
The good folks on the n54 FB page think the red crimp connectors I used caused too much resistance. I’m hardwiring the pump directly to the top hat connector, as should everyone else installing a bigger pump. Though it’s been 3 years with this wiring and now it has failed so I can’t be 100% sure if there is something else wrong.

Option #2 makes me very nervous...

[Brian86]

Don't know why it melted... but it wasn't the butt crimps.

Think about it.

Why would a high resistance joint at the butt crimp, cause the wire to melt 6" away at the top of a different coupler?

If the butt crimps were a poor quality, high resistance joint, it would have melted at the butt crimp.

[Serf27]

Originally Posted by StradaRedlands

Option #2 makes me very nervous...

Is the fuse faster than a spark that would ignite the fuel tank? Probably not.
Glad I didn’t find out!
This was on an upgraded fuel pump, where I followed DIYs and they used the same crimps I used..

[nsjames]

Originally Posted by Brian86

Don't know why it melted... but it wasn't the butt crimps.

Think about it.

Why would a high resistance joint at the butt crimp, cause the wire to melt 6" away at the top of a different coupler?

If the butt crimps were a poor quality, high resistance joint, it would have melted at the butt crimp.

this.

the heat happens where the resistance is.

[Tambohamilton]

Originally Posted by nsjames

this.

the heat happens where the resistance is.

Totally agree, but also... If there was high resistance at the crimps, the voltage at the pump would be lower and it'd draw more current to compensate.

[Tambohamilton]

Updated all modules, including cas, and didn't brick anything

[Serf27]

Originally Posted by Brian86

Don't know why it melted... but it wasn't the butt crimps.

Think about it.

Why would a high resistance joint at the butt crimp, cause the wire to melt 6" away at the top of a different coupler?

If the butt crimps were a poor quality, high resistance joint, it would have melted at the butt crimp.

Possibly high resistance at the melted connector then?

[Brian86]

Best guess is that the interface where pin is crimped to the wire inside of that connector was somehow damaged.

[Serf27]

I soldered the wires together. I’ll remove the pump cover once in a while for a couple of weeks to make sure nothing melts again.

[ny325]

Shoveled it out. A little snow passed this morning.

[PhaseP]

Originally Posted by Serf27

Possibly high resistance at the melted connector then?

I suspect something on the pump drew high current. From your picture the rest of the wires have their insulation looking like baked too. And the black plastic long connector has melted section on the other end of, not just where the wire connection is.

The original wires may be and probably underrated in terms of size for the new pump. But that black plastic melting at the other end of it, my guess pump was drew a lot of current, like when a DC electric motor gets stuck and can't turn.

[Serf27]

Originally Posted by PhaseP

I suspect something on the pump drew high current. From your picture the rest of the wires have their insulation looking like baked too. And the black plastic long connector has melted section on the other end of, not just where the wire connection is.

The original wires may be and probably underrated in terms of size for the new pump. But that black plastic melting at the other end of it, my guess pump was drew a lot of current, like when a DC electric motor gets stuck and can't turn.

The wires between the red crimps I added and the black connector were pretty stiff.
Original top hat wires and pump wires could still flex easily.
The wiring on the pump seems to be the same gauge as the oem wiring.
I added the same gauge to hard wire both together.

I’m not sure why the pump would draw a lot of current, as it’s been in there for 3 years and had no issues. Unless the pump is starting to fail.

[jbellk75rt]

Changed front and rear diff oil, pretty straight forward. Got my butt completely kicked changing the transfer case oil. A bolt on the exhaust bracket was frozen and broke off. Had to drill it out. Then I had a heck of a time getting the long bolt in the transmission support bracket out. Changed the TC oil but only got about 10-12 ounces out, not sure if it was worth it. Then spent a couple of hours trying to remount the support bracket and finally had to give it up for the night. Will hit it again in the morning and then change transmission fluid.

[Pittz1]

Drop the exhaust. Way easier than fighting that bolt. Also, most of the exhaust hangers can unbolt from the body.