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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > NA Engine (non-turbo) / Drivetrain / Exhaust Modifications > Just money shifted into 2nd at 75mph, engine locked up, what's my next move?



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      12-27-2018, 02:56 PM   #23
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Would you sell parts off that engine?
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      12-27-2018, 03:02 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hassmaschine View Post
Would you sell parts off that engine?
I might keep some of the stuff for myself as spares for the new engine, but yeah, definitely. PM me what you're looking for so we don't clutter this thread please.
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      12-27-2018, 05:16 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hassmaschine View Post
that was fast! I did something similar, but I clutched in pretty quickly, I don't think it went past ~8200rpm. no damage (it was a couple years ago already).

I don't know if I have the address for the over-rev counter for your specific model (I can find it if needed), but you can install BMW tools from a bunch of different places (just look in the coding forum). Then you can use INPA to read the RAM address for 'n_h_max', which can be converted from RPM to hex (sure would be cool to add that to Bimmergeek's ProTool).

I'll try to do it on my car, I'm curious because I've forgotten all about it until just now.
Good idea, Dylan could add a reset and feature support for the MSD8x.

Not like I get anywhere near 7,000 RPM anymore. Just no fun past 6,500.
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      12-28-2018, 06:13 PM   #26
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I got a new engine on order.

It's an N52 out of a manual trans 2011 128i with 88k miles. It got totaled after taking a hit to the front left side but the engine bay is untouched. $1300+shipping is what I paid. Shipping is $275. Fun fact, this 128i was made within a week of my 328i!




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I got my old engine on a stand and stripped down to just the long block. This thing is so clean, its such a shame I ruined it, but oh well.

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      12-28-2018, 06:15 PM   #27
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I also wrote down the general steps of removing the engine out of the car and then what I stripped off the engine after it was out. I'm copy and pasting this below for reference in case anyone else wants to look at the steps involved. It's not comprehensive by any means its just what I happened to note down, I'm sure some things are missing but I did my best.

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328i ENGINE REMOVAL STEPS

-remove cowl
-remove engine cover
-remove coils and plugs
-remove skidplates/air deflectors under car
-remove radiator fan
-remove airbox and intake tube
-remove strut braces
-drain coolant
-remove front bumper
-remove headlights and headlight washers
-remove front wheels
-remove horns and undo sensors on front bumper
-remove radiator out bottom
-flap A/C and PS radiators out of the way
-flap power steering pump
-remove water pump/t-stat and hoses
-unbolt PS reservoir and set to side
-open up white electrical box passenger side
-unbolt exhaust
-remove throttle body
-unbolt and remove red positive big wire running over engine to alternator
-remove alternator
-remove intake manifold bracket
-remove intake manifold
-remove bell housing bolts
-remove some connector going to the transmission
-pull engine



AFTER ENGINE IS OUT

-remove pressure plate, clutch, flywheel
-remove metal plate that goes between block and bell housing
-mount engine on stand
-remove vacuum style hose going from PCV to Intake Manifold
-unclip O2 sensors from valve cover
-remove headers (no gaskets (???))
-remove right engine mount (big aluminum piece)
-remove metal coolant hose on right side of block
-remove metal bracket above rear header
-remove coolant hose off front near oil filter housing
-remove black plastic coolant hose bracket off front of engine near vanos solenoids
-remove vacuum style hose off of unknown device near alternator
-disconnect vanos solenoids, coolant temp sensor, oil pressure sensor, cam position sensors
-remove small metal coolant hose bracket on front right of engine
-remove coils
-undo ground studs between coils (2)
-undo VVT motor connector
-undo ESS connector
-unclip big plastic part of wiring harness that sits below the coils on top of valve cover
-undo injector connectors
-undo knock sensors, unclip crank position sensor
-remove wiring harness from engine
-at this point you should be left with just the long block with nothing but sensors on it
-remove VVT motor (turn clockwise, undo bolts, back out counterclockwise
-remove valve cover
-remove ESS
-remove fuel rail/injectors
-remove OFH
-remove coolant temp sensor on front of engine near OFH
-remove cams and crank position sensors
-remove VANOS solenoids
-remove accessory belt tensioner
-remove black metal bracket front right of engine
-remove cam chain tensioner
-remove harmonic balancer
-remove (3) allen hex plugs on front of engine to reveal timing chain guide
-remove cam gears
-remove ES spring on top of intake cam
-remove MILV shims
-remove rollers between cam and ES
-remove intake cam
-remove exhuast cam
-remove ES caps
-remove ES hard stop
-remove ES
-remove head
-remove lifters
-remove exhaust valves
-remove oil level sensor
-remove oil pan
-remove oil pickup
-remove silver oil baffle
-remove oil pump gear
-remove oil pump chain guide bolts
-remove oil pump
-remove pistons
-remove vacuum pump gear
-remove front crank bolt
-remove front crank sprockets
-remove vaccuum pump
-remove crank


BOLTS TO REPLACE

-bellhousing bolts
-M12 x 85 full thread E torx head (qty 4) (set p/n 23000392607)
-the rest are steel
-right engine mount big aluminum bracket
-M12 x 40 full thread E torx head (qty 4) (set p/n 22110392551)
-left engine mount big aluminum bracket
-M12 x 40 full thread E torx head (qty 4) (set p/n 22110392551)
-starter
-M10 x 85 full thread E torx head (qty 1)
-M10 x 30 full thread E torx head (qty 1) (set p/n 12410392577)
-alternator
-M8 x 80 full thread E torx head (qty 4) (set p/n 12310392568)
-A/C compressor
-M8 x 85 full thread E torx head (qty 3) (set p/n 64550392602)
-water pump
-M8 x 30 full thread E torx head (qty 3) (set p/n 11510392553)
-power steering pump
-M10 x 30 full thread E torx head (qty 4) (set p/n 32420392609)
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      12-28-2018, 08:36 PM   #28
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Here's something to think about if you're doing mounts.

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      12-28-2018, 09:41 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PORTMOODY View Post
Here's something to think about if you're doing mounts.
I think I'm going to skip mounts for now for three reasons

-My mounts still feel fine (surprisingly)
-I'm trying to keep this as cheap as possible
-Engine mounts take like 5 minutes to replace even with the engine in the car

But thanks for sharing that video, very interesting concept. I wonder how it worked out in the long run for that guy.
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      12-28-2018, 09:51 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PORTMOODY View Post
Here's something to think about if you're doing mounts.

you know... what a waste of time and effort. sorry! (not sorry).

My first question is, why the hell does an E90 *need* stiffer engine mounts? What does that gain you? The stock ones work just fine for 100-200k miles.

I've been there and done 'cheap' mods like this. Whatever. I doubt you would ever notice a difference, other than wasted time and energy - half of the reports on 'upgraded' mounts are "nothing to report - same as stock". Meaning, the owners couldn't tell any difference from perfectly good stock mounts.

Leave well enough alone. If it ain't broke, don't fix the damn thing..
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      12-29-2018, 09:01 PM   #31
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Does anyone know how to get the cam chain off on this engine? I see the bolts on the front of the cam gears but i tried really hard to get them off in both directions and they wouldn't budge.

I've got to get the cam chain off, so i can get the cams out and the head off.

I could always just cut it but I'd like to learn how to do it properly just so i have the knowledge, ya know?
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      12-29-2018, 09:26 PM   #32
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Ya should see a joiner link in the chain.

Last edited by Twoforty; 12-30-2018 at 09:30 PM.. Reason: Ad
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      12-29-2018, 09:27 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by N52B25 View Post
Ya should see a joiner link in the chain.
ah, interesting, had no clue. Thanks!
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      12-29-2018, 09:40 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joester View Post
Does anyone know how to get the cam chain off on this engine? I see the bolts on the front of the cam gears but i tried really hard to get them off in both directions and they wouldn't budge.

I've got to get the cam chain off, so i can get the cams out and the head off.

I could always just cut it but I'd like to learn how to do it properly just so i have the knowledge, ya know?
Hi Joester, I found this video that might be of help.


I know it is not the N51/52 engine, but couldn't find a video on the actual removal from one of those engines.

You may already be aware, but I was recently informed that you need a "special tool" while removing or replacing the timing chain on these engines in order not to lose the timing. I assume this "special tool" it is the bridge used to hold everything in place while removing the chain.

Sorry to hear what happened to the car, but you seem to know your way around the engine bay and it's great to see the progress you have made so far. Let me know if this was helpful and best of luck to you!
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      12-29-2018, 10:23 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Love The Drive View Post
Hi Joester, I found this video that might be of help.

I know it is not the N51/52 engine, but couldn't find a video on the actual removal from one of those engines.

You may already be aware, but I was recently informed that you need a "special tool" while removing or replacing the timing chain on these engines in order not to lose the timing. I assume this "special tool" it is the bridge used to hold everything in place while removing the chain.

Sorry to hear what happened to the car, but you seem to know your way around the engine bay and it's great to see the progress you have made so far. Let me know if this was helpful and best of luck to you!
I never saw in there how to actually install or remove the chain though which is what I'm after.

One of the main reasons that I just bought a new engine instead of trying to repair this one is because all the special tools needed and all the vanos and valvetronic stuff scares me.

So I never need to put this one back together, I just wanna take it apart for my own educational purposes (and to make a coffee table out of the engine block)

Thanks for sharing the video, it could come in handy at some point, and thanks for your condolences!
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      12-30-2018, 12:04 AM   #36
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Turns out there's no master link in the chain, I think the intended way you get it out is to undo the cams, then kinda pivot them out from underneath the chain.
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      12-30-2018, 09:31 AM   #37
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remove the Vanos units (it's just one bolt) then you can remove the guides and chain. You don't need to remove the cams.
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      12-30-2018, 12:07 PM   #38
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Just checked my maximum RPM - I must have clutched in sooner than I thought, it's only 7656rpm.

in your DME go to "Memory", click "Linear". You need the address for n_max for your DME, on MSV70 921S it's 0x7FABCE:


It's just straight hex to decimal. 1DE8 = 7656rpm.


I'll have to track it down for MSV80 too.
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      12-30-2018, 12:35 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hassmaschine View Post
remove the Vanos units (it's just one bolt) then you can remove the guides and chain. You don't need to remove the cams.
Are they reverse thread or something or did I just not crank hard enough on em?

EDIT: Nevermind I got it. They're regualar thread they're just on there EXTREMELY tight. Like 3ft breaker bar tight.

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      12-30-2018, 01:39 PM   #40
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Oh and for all you MILV guys, I did an experiment when I was taking off the springs on top of the MILV shims or whatever you wanna call them.

Every single one popped free at almost exactly 10 turns out.

So when you're installing MILVs and you're loosening that spring, I wouldnt dare go past like 7 turns out. 5 to be safe.

But yeah 10 turns out is when it pops out and tears some thread material with it.
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      12-30-2018, 03:58 PM   #41
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I've got the head off and I'm down to the block/pistons.

It's the exhaust valves that have collided with each piston leaving some pretty gnarly marks on the tops. The intake valves didn't touch.

I spun the exhaust valves in my drill and none of them are visibly bent, but the chuck on my drill isnt 100% true either so it's hard to tell, really.

Below are a lot of pics.

















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      12-30-2018, 03:59 PM   #42
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      12-30-2018, 04:03 PM   #43
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And just because I thought it looked cool, here's a video.

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      12-30-2018, 05:08 PM   #44
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are the pistons actually damanged or did the valves just clean off the carbon?
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