[DaveSA]

Originally Posted by Ken Oath

I was trying to find an old post where I mentioned using the correct oil. It's still valid.
You previously mentioned all the oils used but none are the correct weight.

Try using a 0W-30 LL-01

I hear what your saying, and I truly appreciate the help. BUT... Entertain me for a moment, please.

Before the ER oil cooler, BMS valve, the CFS racing radiator, and other mods, the car was factory stock. Back then, it was reaching the same oil temps.

BMS (red) valve is supposed to let oil run thru the cooler 100% of the time.

ER oil cooler is 144 cubic inches (factory stock 44 cubic inches).

CFS Radiator has 66% greater cooling capacity than OEM.

All these items are supposed to drop the oil temp. But nothing has changed. I don't see how changing oil is going to fix (drop oil temps 16C), when these mods haven't, and should by design.

Reiterating appreciate the input Ken, but something other than oil grade seems to be the culprit here.

[Brule]

Can you hear your waterpump going after to turn your car off.

[Brule]

You have a few electrical draw codes.
If water pumps working you have an oil or water blockage.

Check coolant level
Check oil level
Check bms thermostat stick installed correctly

[DaveSA]

Originally Posted by Brule

Can you hear your waterpump going after to turn your car off.

Sometimes the radiator fan doesn't stop for a 2 or 3 min after I switch car off. But I can't say I've heard the waterpump still operating, no.

Originally Posted by Brule

You have a few electrical draw codes.
If water pumps working you have an oil block from sludge or more oil pick up is not on.
Or water blockage but unlikely

Since Adelaide BMW didn't change the oil as instructed (April 2016), instead, dipped finger in, seeing it clean, yet no idea what oil was in it... Then approx 3,000Km later it literally turned to black-sludge.

• A knock on from that was OFH gaskets were leaking
• Discovered oil Filter wasn't installed properly, and resembled it being twisted/crushed.
• OEM oil cooler and lines were sludged
• Took 3x flushing, and 2x new oil filters to fix the sludge issue.
• PCV shat itself a week later, was clagged up with sludge.
• Sump gasket was also found to be leaking oil, fixed.

Clearly this sludge (sheered oil) and more likely the oil being K-mart special, is why the above came to pass.

Hypothetically, if there are still lines blocked with sludge etc, how can test that theory?

And more importantly, which ones, and how do I fix that issue?

NB - ER Oil cooler has new braided line to OFH.

[Brule]

It would be hard to hear the water pump if the fans are on but they normally go for 5 to 10 minutes after the cars switched off.

You can determine if sludge is still an issue by confirmng your water pumps working. Try and eliminate what it could be.

If you had a sludge issue previously putting an engine oil cleaner through it would be a good idea. Some oil squirters are less then 2mm.

[Brule]

Deginitley run a few engine flush products.

if your 8mm oil cooler lines were gunked up your galleries and squirters will still be gunked up.

[DaveSA]

The other option I thought of (thinking outside the box)... There's Cobb Tech guy in Adelaide, who, has the professional Cobb program gizmo in a PC. That, like the MHD flasher, the Cobb pro-version, has the option to run the EFP 100% all the time.

Given the oil fiasco and the lost stone trays, I little to no faith in the $tealership. Which has me wondering if the thermostat may have been faulty, wasn't changed, or something along those lines.

Making the EWP run 100% time, least for a test, would see if that cools the oil temp. If not, then, that's not the problem...

[DaveSA]

Originally Posted by Brule

galleries and squirters will still be gunked up.

I'm not au fait with what they are, can you please explain what/where these are? Thanks!

[Brule]

To test water pump put key in press start button once put heater on max heat snd hold accelerator flat to the floor for 10 seconds.

It will put you water pump into a cycle.

You will hear the pump running.

you dont need to pay someone else.

[Brule]

Galleries are tiny tunnels in your engine block that oil travels through.

Squirters are tiny pipes (2mm or less internal diameter) that squirt oil where you need to lube parts of engine.

I think they are still blocked.

[DaveSA]

Brule - thanks for the quick lesson. What you've explained makes sense, and more so, seems highly plausible.

I'm getting that OFH temp thing replaced tomorrow, it's already on order. But if that doesn't fix the issue. Then I'll do as you suggest with the EWP, then start looking at getting the galleries and squirters looked at.

Just a though, but would it help if I replaced ALL the oil hoses?

[Brule]

No

[DaveSA]

I just tried to activate the EWP, followed your instructs to the letter T... Tried it 3x and can't get the water pump to go into test mode. Nothing happens?

[Brule]

Its probably not connected.
Massive concern.

It should start up after 5 seconds of holding avcelerator down.

[Brule]

Fan setting must be on lowest setting also. Try again.

[DaveSA]

NB - EWP and thermostat was replaced 30,000km ago. Unless it's a dodgy thermostat/EWP, or the $tealership made a balls up on this too, don't think it's a EWP issue...

Tried it 5x total, and again when I've just woke up today. Nothing, zlitch, nadda.

The fan does work, it kicks in when the temp rises.

However, way back when the original EWP blew (3 days after car purchased, and before realising Adelaide BMW were goofs), they got the car to fix it.

Picked it up, drove maybe 3km and back into limp mode. Turned out to be short in the wire cradle: Fuse >> wire leading to fan >> fan connects to EWP.

That was fixed, problem solved.

Thing is though, knowing what I know now about Adelaide BMW, and the fact no garage since has been able to active the fan via their diagnostic equipment, and I can't active it either, tells me that the aforementioned-clowns, instead of fixing the wiring issue correctly, have more than likely, done a hack job to get it going. Bypassed a senor or something IDK. All I know is the fan can no longer be activated in test mode.

[Brule]

Don't over complicate it.

Your water pump is not working.

Wire to it is disconected or sheared off.

Thermostat is different.
Photos of both below

[Brule]

Water pump wire

[Brule]

Thermostat Wire

[DaveSA]

Brule - just arrive back home from indy shop, and have just seen your latest post.

All up the following (in total) have been replaced:

• Thermal Oil Level Sensor
• Coolant Temp Sensor (directly underneath OFH at back)
• Oil Temp (Engine Temp) sensor OFH

Drove home hard, with stop/start traffic. It would easily reach 130C, but it only got to 122C.

The shop's closed now, but I'll take it to my partner dad's place, he races Shelby Mustang's, and has a complete workshop with hoists etc., etc.

He's always away, otherwise he'd fix this heat issue.

Thanks for the info Mate.

P.S. Shop got the radiator fan working via their diagnostic console. But still couldn't fire up the EWP. So, yes I agree must be the water pump/thermostat wiring... Will keep the thread updated

[DaveSA]

Well... Thought I"d check the fuse, but before doing so, found another guide to getting the waterpump test cycle.

I set the heating temp to 28C, and fan high, but now, set fan lowest and pressed accelerator for 10 sec... YaY the EWP fired up

Going thru the cycle/bleed process now. Will check levels when finished.

[Brule]

Thats good.
Your water pump works.