[gingerbreadman]

OMG! Thank you so much prototyp. I've had this problem for awhile and thought it was an alignment problem. my joint clamp bolt was sticking out about half an inch and you can wiggle and turn it...freaking scary to even think of what could have happened if it had fallen off as I daily it through canyon roads. I think you just saved a life...thank you.

[sparkymarky]

Just done this too. Have a null spot when steering wheel central and move it off central. And a little bit of vagueness/wander/following the road when driving. Bolt at first seemed pretty darn tight. Gave it a bit more welly afraid of giving it too much though but it went between a 1/4 - 1/2 turn. Road test on the way home from work later!

[sparkymarky]

Well it's definitely helped! Noticeable at slower speeds that the steering has less play and wander when at neutral. At high speeds today on the motorway it feels like a totally different car. Hunkered down and heavier steering again. No need to keep adding pressure to the wheel to keep the car tracking correctly. It just stays where it is and almost knows where its going. It now feels like a sporty car again. I should say I've also added spacers and upped tyre pressures at the sameg time to 36 at the front instead of 34 which will likely also have helped. Was going to upgrade suspect sion as it's done 90k but now it feels like it's only done 30k again. So tight and precise now.

[nukezero]

Apologize for reviving this thread but at 138,000 miles and 8 years of ownership, my steering wheel developed this problem. There was a 1/4 inch of dead play. Holy cow, the fix below was so easy, it brought back that "tightness" of that BMW ultimate driving machine feel.

Somebody who said to use E12 torx is not correct. E10 torx is the right size. E12 will strip it!

But damn, go out there and everybody tighten this thing up. Your steering will return back to factory normal like the day you drove off the lot.

As to why BMW designed this steering linkage this way is beyond me. These two U-joints can develop play over time, and besides that, the U-joint that needs tightening appears to be a sleeve that wraps around the steering box control rod. This makes no sense to me. The bolt appears to just tighten the sleeve around the rod because the sleeve is the one that is creating this play. I'm not 100% but if the sleeve is not keyed, does it really spin and rotate around the entire shaft? That would seem like a dangerous design.

Originally Posted by prototyp

Follow up. I fixed my 'loose' steering issue! Here's what I found, and how to fix it... hope it might help someone here.

The culprit in my case was the lower steering joint clamp bolt. It was just slack enough to allow some slop between the steering shaft and the steering box input shaft... this was felt at the steering wheel as about 3/8" of free play. (The steering wheel is effectively a lever, so a little axial wiggle at the input shaft feels like a big movement at the wheel)





If you've got an hour, some tools, and mechanical acuity it's a simple thing to look into.

Investigating and addressing the issue requires removing the cowl panel (there's a DIY here for that little job). Obviously there is noticeable play in the steering wheel before it feels connected to anything mechanical. Once you're in there, have a friend wiggle the wheel while you watch the steering shaft, the lower clamp, and steering box. If the steering shaft is healthy and doesn't have play within the two U joints, and you've got keen eyes, you'll see the lower clamp moving around on the steering-box input-shaft instead of turning it... Another check is to grab the lower steering shaft and see if it moves relative to the steering box. Mine was loose enough to also slide back and forth on the steering box input shaft as well... (there was a ring of exposed shining brassy metal on the splined input shaft which is also an indication of play there.)

I found that a 12-point 5/16" socket is a nearly perfect fit over the oddball torx-style bolt head. The bolt wasn't loose, but I was able to get another 1/2 turn or so (ish) with a ratchet wrench which tightened things right up. It's muscle-tight, but the bolt appears similar to the other aluminum bolts used throughout the engine bay so don't over-do it.

Funny that the difference between legendary BMW steering feel and lane-wandering chaos comes down to the torque setting of a single bolt... I have a feeling this one bolt had been slowly working its way loose (stretching?) for some time as my steering is now more direct, connected, and solid than I ever remember it being.

[e90Spacegray]

My issue was not exact but similar. I was hoping you guys might be able to help me.

Long story short. I took the steering shaft out. when I put it back, the upper Universal joint and the torx bolt was rubbing the firewall, at a certain degree when I turn the steering wheel.

I have been battling this issue for about couple weeks (on and off)
Luckily I still have my 205k miles E46. ( thanks to the online BMW community)

I have searched around for solutions, nothing positive so far.
If any of you guys could snap a few pictures to show how the upper U joint is properly located / situated and post some pictures here, would be great and it might help future members as well.

I also could not figure out how the dust boot at the firewall should be put back.
thanks much guys

my e90 has been on Jack stand for almost 3 weeks now.........

[sleepysnake]

I have a very small amount of play in the steering. Couldn't tighten the bolt anymore at all, though the positioning of my arm and the coolant tank didn't help.

[GearHead335i]

Originally Posted by AWDBooSTIn90

Im soo glad i found this thread! I had a little bit of play in my steering that i figured was from slightly worn out tie rods with my mikeage (120k). But i figured id take a look at this since you can see it and access it without removing anything. I have a LHD 335i btw.

Sure enough there was a little bit of movement between the lower steering shaft u-joint and the steering rack . Grabbed an E12 tork socket and an extension. Tightnened it up ablut a full turn with a 3/8" ratchet (nothing crazy, but still pretty tight). Kept tightening alittle at a time and checking until it was finally completely tight.

The car feels like a brand new car! And i barely had any free play in my steering wheel. Just about a 1/4" of free play side to side when parked with engine off. Now its super tight and drives awesome!

Everyone with an E9x should check this bolt and make sure its tight. My steering shaft has never been removed and the only thing i can think of is, a gap wearing out over time from having a small amount of free play that got worse over time. Tightening the bolt closes the gap and locks the u-joint onto the steering rack.

Im still going to replace my inner and outer tie rods when i install my M3 control arms and have the alignment done because they have the mikeage, but honestly they're probably still fine. I feel no steering play whatsoever now. Next step is m3 steering rack....

EDIT: if anyone was wondering my car is a 2007 E92 335i LHD US-spec. But it seems that any LHD or RHD shares the same style steering shaft to steering rack setup. Conventional ujoint with pinch bolt clamp.

Don’t care how old this thread is, this should be a STICKY THREAD! I tried this before with just a small ratchet and the inaccessibility of the bolt without an extension and lack of leverage it felt tight to me. Problem persisted and only got worse, to the point of having almost a full inch of play in the wheel. Found myself searching again, knowing Of this mystery steeeing rack nut and decided to go out in the garage and give it another try with a breaker bar, an extension, and a deep socket and wow!!!

Quoted this comment bc deff do as described with tightening a little, cuheckingD tightening a little, checking. Mind you I was using a breaker bar so I was being extra careful, but with that said I got almost 2 full turns from the bolt and sure enough everything is tightened back up.

Although the popping sound that somenbave experienced I still have a minimal pop but the difference from before and archer is night and day. So, if you have tightened the e12 bolt in the rack itself as described in this thread, and still hearing some popping, I believe the problem is the splines on the column. They tend to wear out and believe it or not bmw did away with the design in the next f30 chassis. Spline problem described here;



https://m.youtube.com/watch?t=59s&v=3M3kZLum6Ok

[daxjake]

Originally Posted by prototyp

Follow up. I fixed my 'loose' steering issue! Here's what I found, and how to fix it... hope it might help someone here.

The culprit in my case was the lower steering joint clamp bolt. It was just slack enough to allow some slop between the steering shaft and the steering box input shaft... this was felt at the steering wheel as about 3/8" of free play. (The steering wheel is effectively a lever, so a little axial wiggle at the input shaft feels like a big movement at the wheel)





If you've got an hour, some tools, and mechanical acuity it's a simple thing to look into.

Investigating and addressing the issue requires removing the cowl panel (there's a DIY here for that little job). Obviously there is noticeable play in the steering wheel before it feels connected to anything mechanical. Once you're in there, have a friend wiggle the wheel while you watch the steering shaft, the lower clamp, and steering box. If the steering shaft is healthy and doesn't have play within the two U joints, and you've got keen eyes, you'll see the lower clamp moving around on the steering-box input-shaft instead of turning it... Another check is to grab the lower steering shaft and see if it moves relative to the steering box. Mine was loose enough to also slide back and forth on the steering box input shaft as well... (there was a ring of exposed shining brassy metal on the splined input shaft which is also an indication of play there.)

I found that a 12-point 5/16" socket is a nearly perfect fit over the oddball torx-style bolt head. The bolt wasn't loose, but I was able to get another 1/2 turn or so (ish) with a ratchet wrench which tightened things right up. It's muscle-tight, but the bolt appears similar to the other aluminum bolts used throughout the engine bay so don't over-do it.

Funny that the difference between legendary BMW steering feel and lane-wandering chaos comes down to the torque setting of a single bolt... I have a feeling this one bolt had been slowly working its way loose (stretching?) for some time as my steering is now more direct, connected, and solid than I ever remember it being.

Apologies for reviving an old thread but I have to thank prototyp for this guide. Managed to get a half turn out of the bolt and and now my steering is bang on.

Cheers!

[onemonkey]

Originally Posted by MrDummy

IS it normal for the wheel to have about a 1/8" or 1/4" play when your parked and the engine is running? It seems tight but I can here a small creaking noise under the dash when I gently turn side to side, and it moves about a tad b4 the wheels start to move. Is that just the steering system play from like the rack and pinion, its a 2006 325xi w/49K miles.

I had that creaking noise after i ruptured my shock mount after a pothole. Sounds like its coming from the steering column. Listen under the hood when someone turns the wheel. At least rule this out if nothing else. The play might be from the shock tower twisting at the mount a small amount.

Just a thought.

Edit*** note to self check the end of the thread to see if the OP fixed the issue :/

[Drifter2090]

Definitely should be a sticky! I always wondered why my steering wasn't as tight as my friends car. Today I turned it half a turn and instantly noticed the difference!

Also it is a E12 not a E10

[TheClunk]

BMW..what a pack of shameless bastards!!
Simon Jebb a man called Mike and the Ceo of BMW uk Mr Grieve
steering rack failed at 52 k on clock thats when i bought car,obviously an ongoing fault from earlier stages,fault reported 2015 on car CLUNKING KNOCKING right front side.
From day one of my complaint BMW''s snotty little arsehole's mocked me! I complained of the fault as described,it was reported to BMW in 2015,but evidentally BMW did not fix or replace it.I have service records and theres a warranty claim,but BMW will not tell me what the warranty claim was for Data Protection ,WHATTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTT?
How on earth is it date protection i only wanted to know what the warranty claim was for.E mailed a Mr Duggan,told me to bring car in for diagnosis just like that. Im over 100 miles south of Eatern Edinburgh,so i readdressed the warranty claim,No help, LA LA LA LA LA we dont care we dont care about your car,thats what the message was like coming from Mr Jebb...BMW. and the middle finger,then Mr Jebb claims BMW are a responsible car manafcturer..Anyway i do think that BMW should be investigted with reference to their faulty steering racks.NER NER NER my dads bigger than yours our cat is whiter than yours,thats BMW's attitude.I think that this rack failed way way way before 17 k thats the mileage the clunking noise appeared,35 k miles later it returns.
I argued the mileage wise for the warranty,nope nope nope 3 years warranty day over and youre basically FUCKED. Up your arse BMW X

[xlr88r]

This thread definitely needs promoting to Sir Chief Sticky of Sticksworth!

Just removed no end of slack and play and general waviness from the front end of my 2006 330i. It's not quite as direct as any BMWs I've had previously (1998 E36 328i Coupe, 2001 E46 323i Coupe, 2004 325ti Compact, 2005 535d Touring) but it's loads better. It was dead easy on the 330i too, which suits me as I'm mechanically inept.

[sleepysnake]

Managed about half a turn with a breaker bar. Could probably push it further but felt that was enough.

Steering feels fairly tight when driving, but still have some play when the car is stationary with the engine off.

[lupa]

Well, fellas...Thank you.

Should anyone care, I've been posting about this on my 2011 E82 for years off and on. I've chased alignment, I've chased tie rod ends. I've gone back to the dealership multiple times to the point that they think I'm nuts, telling me every time "everything is fine."

I've wasted so much time on this that I'm now an expert on the 135i suspension (I'm not), and even found a way to clean the VANOS solenoids when they were sticking, even though that was unrelated (another thread here).

So I went back to the dealership this week, asking for a quote. I stood there and said "Please take my money and fix this." "There is nothing wrong, sir."

I somehow found this thread earlier today, got out the torx sockets, turned that bolt one full rotation, and my little 135i steers like it is new.

I went slow on back roads, hit high speed on the interstate, traveled roads where I used to have to fight to keep it in a straight line.

This doesn't mean as much to you guys, for sure, but this has been 7 years of hating the way the thing handled on uneven conditions, and now the car is like brand new.

Thank you.


Edit 1:

Anyone know the torque spec on this bolt? I have a series of extensions that I think I can use to get the torque wrench on it from above the engine. I can definitely still tighten the thing by hand using a small socket, but I don't want to over tighten. I've asked the dealership, but, well, I'm asking here, too.

Couldn't find it on the listing of torque set points someone posted on another thread. I've searched the pdf for steering shaft, shaft, clamp, and clamp bolt. Can't find it.

Thanks.


Edit 2:


Found a torque spec on an AutoZone BMW steering repair guide. Looks like the bolt should be 35 N-m, 26 ft-lbs. If anyone else can verify using something other than AutoZone, that would be great. In the meantime I'm going to be my extensions out and try to set it.


The car has been handling great since I hand tightened that bolt, and the overall suspension feels better. Likely because the front end is staying quiet on bumps, as opposed to rocking side to side, pulling the car around and making it feel unstable.

[sismy]

Originally Posted by lupa

Well, fellas...Thank you.

Should anyone care, I've been posting about this on my 2011 E82 for years off and on. I've chased alignment, I've chased tie rod ends. I've gone back to the dealership multiple times to the point that they think I'm nuts, telling me every time "everything is fine."

I've wasted so much time on this that I'm now an expert on the 135i suspension (I'm not), and even found a way to clean the VANOS solenoids when they were sticking, even though that was unrelated (another thread here).

So I went back to the dealership this week, asking for a quote. I stood there and said "Please take my money and fix this." "There is nothing wrong, sir."

I somehow found this thread earlier today, got out the torx sockets, turned that bolt one full rotation, and my little 135i steers like it is new.

I went slow on back roads, hit high speed on the interstate, traveled roads where I used to have to fight to keep it in a straight line.

This doesn't mean as much to you guys, for sure, but this has been 7 years of hating the way the thing handled on uneven conditions, and now the car is like brand new.

Thank you.


Edit 1:

Anyone know the torque spec on this bolt? I have a series of extensions that I think I can use to get the torque wrench on it from above the engine. I can definitely still tighten the thing by hand using a small socket, but I don't want to over tighten. I've asked the dealership, but, well, I'm asking here, too.

Couldn't find it on the listing of torque set points someone posted on another thread. I've searched the pdf for steering shaft, shaft, clamp, and clamp bolt. Can't find it.

Thanks.


Edit 2:


Found a torque spec on an AutoZone BMW steering repair guide. Looks like the bolt should be 35 N-m, 26 ft-lbs. If anyone else can verify using something other than AutoZone, that would be great. In the meantime I'm going to be my extensions out and try to set it.


The car has been handling great since I hand tightened that bolt, and the overall suspension feels better. Likely because the front end is staying quiet on bumps, as opposed to rocking side to side, pulling the car around and making it feel unstable.

According to the service manual, the torque value is 15.5 ft-lbs

[mdesai93]

Hi all,

Sorry to renew an old thread but the steering wheel play issue with the clicking at low speeds has been driving me crazy. I was able to tighten the bolt Prototyp mentioned and it improved the roaming and play for about a week. Its now back to what it was before. Has anyone continued to have this issue and been able to find a fix?

Should be noted, I switched out my runflats for non-run flats about a year ago and that's when I really started to notice the steering play. I originally thought it was due to the switch and the lack of stiffer side walls but I found this thread and realized its actually a common issue. Any suggestions are appreciated!

Thanks,

[Skiwi39]

Done

[Angelcma]

Originally Posted by Skiwi39

Done

Did it actually work? I tried but I'm not sure it made a difference, maybe I have more than one problem

[reallysomething]

I finally found this thread after searching based on symptoms on my F30. Does anyone with more technical experience with both chassis have any insight as to whether this might work on a 2016 328xi? I do not have the clunking noise, but I have that "loose" spot.

[Boosted12a]

That looks to be like the play I have. It may be the preload needs to be adjusted

[moreToLearn]

Thank you prototyp!!! I followed prototyp's post to tighten the bolt. It fixed the small steering wheel play issue for me. I took off the air box to get more room in order to get to the bolt.

[gIzzE]

Originally Posted by Boosted12a

That looks to be like the play I have. It may be the preload needs to be adjusted

Does anyone know what tools are needed to adjust the preload on an LCI e90? Looks like an 8 sided nut, what size? or is it the centre that has to be adjusted?