[adidoman]

Originally Posted by matt392

Yeah I read a thread the 2010 m3 had different tpms than previous year e92s. And seeing the rims came off a 10 m3 I think I have ones that my car won't recognize. I tried resetting it a couple times, its a no go everytime. I am getting that k+ cable either today or tomorrow thru the mail, is there software I can hook my computer up to delete the [!] error on the dash until I get the tpms sensors on the new wheels? I do plan to hook my car to the mhd app when I get the cable, does that app have features that can do such things? I saw bmwhat app can re program the fob, but not sure the tpms delete.

Ordered so far..
aFe drop in high performance filter
K+ cable for the mhd/bmwhatapp
Lux 8 160 and got the 'expedited' ship option, hopefully get tomorrow
LED Footwell under door lightsunder door leds. (damn i forgot to order h11 white fogs)
High kick spoiler
a22 sgm paint, base and clear coat
rear bumper tow hook (mines missing).

todays project, get the damn roof rack off it, I was going to keep it on and put a snowboard rack for wife and i have ski passes, but that will mean when we go up the mountain were taking my car, no thanks. Her Tahoe is better in the snow anyway. go buy jack stand, impact wrench for my new compressor i got for christmas that i've used once. make appointment for some tint... Research how to install a head until with navigation/backup that works with the stock stereo system. I've briefly buzzed thru some threads I from what I gather its not the easiest thing due to fiber optic cables or something of the such? I'll figure it out. I hope this thread doesn't bother anyone its almost like a journal of some sort for me I guess. Is this the correct section for that? Thanks everyone for looking and any input/tips/criticism good or bad welcome.

Maintenance on the list Goal Date = Mid 3/2016(For a car with 80k miles please reply if I'm missing something you'd recommend
Coilovers/Springs and anything in there needing to be replaced
Walnut Blast
High perf plugs
Drivetrain inspect and fluid change if needed/seals replaced etc...
Coolant inspection and change

Things on list to order Goal date = 4/2016
radar detecor
head unit with nav and back up
suspension (Goal date = asap, need installer!!)
maybe jb4 or cobb, depending on what i see what this mhd app can do
fmic
catless downpipes
hks bov (i don't care if theres less to none gains, I like the way it sounds)
some sort of exhaust, want to change to double dual pipes for nice match on rear bumper
meth kit
m3 rep front/rear bumper
m3 side skirts
m3 hood or something similar maybe even another oem (mine hood is damaged)
slotted rotors
carbon fiber lip on front bumper and side skirts
carbon fiber rear diffuser
full dark matte gray wrap
coral red full interior kit to replace mine, nothing wrong with mine, I just want it. (this is a want of a want, on the list but not part of the goal)

If there is a experienced mechanic or body tech in the Denver area with time to work this month, please PM me. Or anyone please reply any good recommendations. Thank you thank you!

Coolant does not need to be replaced but I feel more comfortable with it replaced at higher mileage. I just did mine and its fairly simple to do, and the coolant costs about 30 dollars for a container on amazon and then another dollar to mix the distilled water 50/50 with it. I didn't do a full flush, read some negatives on it somewhere on here. Spark plugs are pretty easy to do your self as well, you only need a torque wrench for any special tools, and it was less than an hour (shops charge pretty high for a pretty simple job). The coils could be changed soon if they haven't (BMW says 100k, but they could be sooner if your are modifying your car, and they would work well to change out at the same time as your plugs since you have to remove the coils to get to the plugs). If your water pump hasn't been replaced yet, I would do that asap. Those are known to fail around these miles and will leave you with a tow if it breaks (it might have already been replaced, check to see if you have those records)

[MilehighM3]

You would be able to code out the tpms with the dcan cable, but you'll need NCS Expert to be able to do so, as well as a serious amount of time to learn and understand the operation of it and what you're doing. In a sense the coding could be temporary, but you would need to code it back to factory settings to reactivate it later. You are correct, the sensors are wrong for your vehicle if they came from a '10 model. If you need a hand with anything from coding to suspension installation or carbon blasting, send me a PM. Also check with Raptor001 regarding his coilovers if you're serious about wanting a set. He's been through a lot with his Xi and could tell you the pros and cons of what he's tried. I know his car very well and his parts are in good shape.

[matt392]

Pulled the roof rack

Driver side lux 8 160 seems to have a different color to it, a bit purple..?

Heres passenger lux8

One's clearly more purple, one his bright white. Not sure whats going on here, I was extremely careful when installing.

Much better without the roof rack, the damn torx security tool to remove was difficult to find in town but I found one...



installed the underdoor leds, work/look great!


More to come (ups guy is going to get his daily workout at my house.....

[MilehighM3]

Nice progress so far. Contact lux and they'll warranty that led if the color is off. Also I just noted your comments on the interior swap. Shouldn't take much longer than an hour to swap with a few basic tools, definitely under 2 of actual working time. Nothing is hard to do in these cars so don't be afraid!

[matt392]

So I've purchased two k+ cables to run the mhd app, neither work. I was using bluestacks on my macbook and my pc, neither work. I did read over these forums bluestacks does in fact work. Maybe it doesn't like my computers? SO now I'm searching for the otg cable, best buy didn't have one in stock, walmart has something that may work, a usb connected to another thing to hook into the phone or tablet. CANT FIND ANYTHING for this car locally, everything must be special order. I'm going to try this as the last draw, if not the $ invested in the two k+ cables, (1 of which promises its been tested and works for the mhd app), 2 usb adapter rig I bought knowing probably won't work, now I'm going to go buy a prepaid android phone and buy a couple gigs of data. If that doesn't do it, I'm buying the damn cobb and cutting my loses, this is so stupid especially the android only thing, damn you apple and your licensing. Anyone in Denver wanna come over and let me borrow your cable for like half hour lol? No seriously, anyone? Or I can come to you? I'm beginning to think maybe its the car, it is a 2008. I heard 07s need a different cable? I think mine was manufactured in 10/07. I just want this damn app and I want it now, Ive waited for two cables in the mail to be disappointed. Bought a battery charger. I wanted this like last week and I can't find anything thats working for me. HELP?

[MilehighM3]

Originally Posted by matt392

So I've purchased two k+ cables to run the mhd app, neither work. I was using bluestacks on my macbook and my pc, neither work. I did read over these forums bluestacks does in fact work. Maybe it doesn't like my computers? SO now I'm searching for the otg cable, best buy didn't have one in stock, walmart has something that may work, a usb connected to another thing to hook into the phone or tablet. CANT FIND ANYTHING for this car locally, everything must be special order. I'm going to try this as the last draw, if not the $ invested in the two k+ cables, (1 of which promises its been tested and works for the mhd app), 2 usb adapter rig I bought knowing probably won't work, now I'm going to go buy a prepaid android phone and buy a couple gigs of data. If that doesn't do it, I'm buying the damn cobb and cutting my loses, this is so stupid especially the android only thing, damn you apple and your licensing. Anyone in Denver wanna come over and let me borrow your cable for like half hour lol? No seriously, anyone? Or I can come to you? I'm beginning to think maybe its the car, it is a 2008. I heard 07s need a different cable? I think mine was manufactured in 10/07. I just want this damn app and I want it now, Ive waited for two cables in the mail to be disappointed. Bought a battery charger. I wanted this like last week and I can't find anything thats working for me. HELP?

IMO Cobb > MHD any way. Cut your losses and move on. People only like MHD because it's cheap. At least the Cobb will just plug in and work. Which cable are you using? The green circuit board cable from one stop electronics?

[matt392]

Originally Posted by MilehighM3

IMO Cobb > MHD any way. Cut your losses and move on. People only like MHD because it's cheap. At least the Cobb will just plug in and work. Which cable are you using? The green circuit board cable from one stop electronics?

I actually googled k+ cable mhd flasher, and I forget which store it was from. Both cables I ordered actually do work, it was my laptop, I asked in the MHD discussion thread if bluestacks emulator will work and connect with my computer, and someone said it did for them, well it didn't for me, I got a tablet and it loaded right away. Well wait, I bought a samsung galaxy tab, it doesn't support the otg cable that connects to the k+ cable, how tf was I supposed to know that?! LOL, I went back exchanged for a shitty leveno tablet and it worked. I bought the stage 1 map and loaded map1 91 octane. I did top off my tank yesterday with 4 gallons of 100 octane race fuel, with the already 91 shell gas in it. Since I'm in Denver the highest gas without going race gas ($10 a gallon) is 91, I'm still confused since I moved here why we use lower octane gas because of the elevation, but if 91 here is the best shell sells is this equivalent to 93 octane at sea level? I'm sure I'm currently sitting close to 93 octane with the 4 gallons of 100 + the 10 or so gallons of 91 already in there. Is it safe to run stage 1 93 octane? With the increased boost should a upgraded chargepipe be the next thing I should upgrade? As well of course with the FMIC upgrade later on, but the way these companies describe they're chargepipe upgrades over stock it sounds like my stock charge pipe is made of cardboard and duct tape and can't take the increase in boost with a tune. Or are they talking some extremely aggressive tunes taking the boost to 17+? I haven't bought the "monitor" app yet to see what boost I'm getting, probably should do that today and go for a drive. But overall impressions of the tune are impressive, I'd recommend it to anyone questioning if they should or not, this is how the car should of came stock. Going from a red light in D my car was all or nothing, in DS it would go much smoother from a stop to go. With the tune, in D, all the lag is gone. It goes with very little on the pedal, and drop the pedal, well she really goes now! Happy with the tune, just wondering how far I can go without breaking things, preventive maintenance/upgrades running higher boost, and the whole octane thing. Thanks!

[adidoman]

Originally Posted by matt392

I actually googled k+ cable mhd flasher, and I forget which store it was from. Both cables I ordered actually do work, it was my laptop, I asked in the MHD discussion thread if bluestacks emulator will work and connect with my computer, and someone said it did for them, well it didn't for me, I got a tablet and it loaded right away. Well wait, I bought a samsung galaxy tab, it doesn't support the otg cable that connects to the k+ cable, how tf was I supposed to know that?! LOL, I went back exchanged for a shitty leveno tablet and it worked. I bought the stage 1 map and loaded map1 91 octane. I did top off my tank yesterday with 4 gallons of 100 octane race fuel, with the already 91 shell gas in it. Since I'm in Denver the highest gas without going race gas ($10 a gallon) is 91, I'm still confused since I moved here why we use lower octane gas because of the elevation, but if 91 here is the best shell sells is this equivalent to 93 octane at sea level? I'm sure I'm currently sitting close to 93 octane with the 4 gallons of 100 + the 10 or so gallons of 91 already in there. Is it safe to run stage 1 93 octane? With the increased boost should a upgraded chargepipe be the next thing I should upgrade? As well of course with the FMIC upgrade later on, but the way these companies describe they're chargepipe upgrades over stock it sounds like my stock charge pipe is made of cardboard and duct tape and can't take the increase in boost with a tune. Or are they talking some extremely aggressive tunes taking the boost to 17+? I haven't bought the "monitor" app yet to see what boost I'm getting, probably should do that today and go for a drive. But overall impressions of the tune are impressive, I'd recommend it to anyone questioning if they should or not, this is how the car should of came stock. Going from a red light in D my car was all or nothing, in DS it would go much smoother from a stop to go. With the tune, in D, all the lag is gone. It goes with very little on the pedal, and drop the pedal, well she really goes now! Happy with the tune, just wondering how far I can go without breaking things, preventive maintenance/upgrades running higher boost, and the whole octane thing. Thanks!

91 cannot be used with 93 maps. 91 is not boost friendly. You can add some e85 to give the same octane as 93 to run those maps (I think it's around 2.5 gallons of e85 per tank) they have calculators for e85 online to get exactly 93 octane, and to factor what's left in your tank (and e85 is usually as cheap or cheaper than unleaded regular).

With higher boost mainly have to only be careful with the factory charge pipe, which i think you mentioned getting a BOV which means you replace that anyway. The factory longblock has been handling 30+psi and 700/800+whp on these cars

[Viorage]

I didn't read the entire thread but I have the ETS 5"FMIC,ETS Cp w/ black tial BOV and ETS DCI for sale if you are interested. Well under 500 miles on them

[Fnne99]

Originally Posted by matt392

I actually googled k+ cable mhd flasher, and I forget which store it was from. Both cables I ordered actually do work, it was my laptop, I asked in the MHD discussion thread if bluestacks emulator will work and connect with my computer, and someone said it did for them, well it didn't for me, I got a tablet and it loaded right away. Well wait, I bought a samsung galaxy tab, it doesn't support the otg cable that connects to the k+ cable, how tf was I supposed to know that?! LOL, I went back exchanged for a shitty leveno tablet and it worked. I bought the stage 1 map and loaded map1 91 octane. I did top off my tank yesterday with 4 gallons of 100 octane race fuel, with the already 91 shell gas in it. Since I'm in Denver the highest gas without going race gas ($10 a gallon) is 91, I'm still confused since I moved here why we use lower octane gas because of the elevation, but if 91 here is the best shell sells is this equivalent to 93 octane at sea level? I'm sure I'm currently sitting close to 93 octane with the 4 gallons of 100 + the 10 or so gallons of 91 already in there. Is it safe to run stage 1 93 octane? With the increased boost should a upgraded chargepipe be the next thing I should upgrade? As well of course with the FMIC upgrade later on, but the way these companies describe they're chargepipe upgrades over stock it sounds like my stock charge pipe is made of cardboard and duct tape and can't take the increase in boost with a tune. Or are they talking some extremely aggressive tunes taking the boost to 17+? I haven't bought the "monitor" app yet to see what boost I'm getting, probably should do that today and go for a drive. But overall impressions of the tune are impressive, I'd recommend it to anyone questioning if they should or not, this is how the car should of came stock. Going from a red light in D my car was all or nothing, in DS it would go much smoother from a stop to go. With the tune, in D, all the lag is gone. It goes with very little on the pedal, and drop the pedal, well she really goes now! Happy with the tune, just wondering how far I can go without breaking things, preventive maintenance/upgrades running higher boost, and the whole octane thing. Thanks!

The chargepipe is made of plastic which is the obvious reason it will be weak point. There is not a set amount of boost that will blow the cp. Some hold up to 20psi with no problems and others blow at ~stock boost. Odds are, if you consistently run it hard with high boost, I'd imagine it will eventually let go most likely on a cold winter day before the engine compartment warms up.

Find a station that has e85 and start with 3gal of e85 and top off with 91. Not sure where in Denver you are located but there are e85 stations sprinkled all over the metro area. There aren't a lot of them but you should be able to find one fairly close to you.

Look up Flex Fuel Finder for iphone or andriod. It has a fairly reliable map for e85 stations.

For mixing e85, you can get the E85 Mix Calculator for iphone or use this xcel spreadsheet at:
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=..._MbrGw&cad=rja

[matt392]

I have a few updates I'll just go in the order as I did them..
Windows Tinted Ahh much better...

So going to Breckenridge for the weekend for a little snowboarding. Well I guess no I need a
Snowboard Carrier Rack Installed Yakima Fatcat

The car looks a lot better than it did without the ski rack, haha. I don't know why, just does. So were going up this weekend thru a lot of snow
Home from Breck, scary drive
The i70 home to Denver was ridiculous. The roads were really bad and it was snowing pretty heavy the entire time. So I'm going like 50 in a 65 mind you due to visibility and driving conditions all a sudden buuuuuuuBOOOOM, my driver side front hits a colorado pot hole also known as coloradan sinkholes. FU!K! Well when it happened I told my friend hopefully that didn't break anything. Didn't think about it at all after. Next day (today, well wife and I go to get in the car and I notice diver front tire has a weird bubble in it. Well I googled it and that bubble is pretty serious in terms of driving on it. So I go to the tire store, I got the m3 wheels and tires from a guy on CL, so no warranty. AND apparently the tires were too worn to replace the one I damaged. SO.........................
Yes I know this is silly but I bought these with some brand new bridgestone potenzas on a good deal, the rim tire that i damaged the rim doesn't appear to be damaged, but you really don't know until its on a machine.. So Now I have three sets of wheels and 11 good tires. 2 sets of OEM m3 18" rims that are cherry freaking mint and the tires that came with the car and woman driven rashed rims (17s). WITH BRAND NEW run flats. So I have a bit of a rim and tire hoarding going on currently but thats ok, plan is to sell the 17s with the bad ass brand new tires on craigslist (tires being selling point), and the set I put on the second time that I jacked one of the tires I'll get full on snow tires for when they go on sale in summer, and the potenzas in the summer, and I suppose the rest of winter, new rule, car can go up to the ski resort on clear days, not thru raging snow storms.... UGHHH! Not what I wanted to spend money on seeing I bought rims and tires two weeks ago and just got unlucky, but the new wheels I just got are pretty sweet, its about midnight right now, and no work tomorrow, hmmm... might be a quick midnight tire change for I got a new compressor and impact tools for christmas that I have used twice.. My compressor is pretty quiet right? mmm not.. haha
PICS OF NEW RIMS, AGAIN
Cherry condition, I had to pull the stickers off the inside, put it that way. Maybe a honest craigslister? Rare..

RIMS CURRENTLY ON THE CAR THAT I BOUGHT TWO WEEKS AGO (Replacing today with setup above

Best pic I can get at night of the damaged tire. Its really hard to see, I'll take a photo when I pull them off and new ones on.
BUSTED


Well that is life, I was running 235/40 18 on all four straight square set. But these new potenzas are 225/40/18 - 92w and 255/35/18 - 90w.
Let me clarify when I say new tires, I got them used, new to me. All four had 8/32 depth, I consider that new. New enough for if I told you what I paid for the tires and rims you wouldn't believe me hence why I didn't just replace the tires on the rims i already had, blowing up a tire was just gods work and the timing was perfect, so now got 2 sets of m3 rims, yayer. Anyway more pics to come...

[matt392]

So the new rim/tire combo looks pretty sweet, when the guy sold me them I didn't think much about the rubber, Im from Arizona, tires are tires to me as long as they are sized correct and have tread. Not the case here, I can barely get up my driveway, I'm really missing those Michelin winter alpin's pa3s. Sucks I have 3 perfectly good winter tires, 1 busted one. Can't replace one new one, I looked around craigslist a little see if I could maybe find one for sale same size, same tread wear, same make and model tire. Lol yeah no luck. Googled, eBay, amazon. There aren't any. I need just one 235/40/18 95V alpin pa3 with about 6-7/32 tread. Pretty hopeless on that, and with winter coming to a end soon I'm up and down on getting some snow tires for my other rims and forking out a quick $1200 for rubber, do I have the cash, yes, do I want to buy brand new tires to use for one month? hell no, for maybe one or two more snow storms... Ugh on the other hand I currently struggle to get up the driveway though so I just don't know where to go from here. I saw a used set of 4 Bridgestone Drivegaurd 235/40/18 on craigslist with 8/32s tread depth, I looked at them, I was hoping dude would break on price, I really don't like the idea of buying used tires but they looked perfect, it was a "used tire" business, he does a 30 day warranty on the tires too, so you'll know if ones messed up not holding air etc.., he wanted $350, I asked if he'd take $300. He said no, then asked if he'd trade those 18" tires for my stock 17" identical tires he has plus my bmws oem rims, same tread depth and condition as his and maybe a little cash (was hoping maybe straight up trade or like $50 cash and rims and tires for tires, fair right?). He said he'd do that plus $250 cash, so $100 for 4 17"rims and practically new (8-9/32s) tires Bridgestone RFs. I was like nah. So should I just roll with the summer potenza sports and roll the dice it doesn't snow the rest of the year lol or look for some used ones for a month then get some legit nice ones on sale over summer for next winter. I could put the 17s back on and run the stock wheels and tires but then it wouldn't look like this...

What size tires can I get away with, currently I have 225/40/18 fronts 255/40/18 rears. Its a xi don't ask me this is what I was told to run for the best 'look' and is good with awd. I thought I must have a square set but was explained to me I'm ok with what I'm running. The winter tires that one blew was 235/40/18 on all four. What I've read a narrow tire is best for winter, I'm not sure why the 235s are on there 225s all the way around was probably a better idea for my car but I bought those rims and tires off CL as well, as previously mentioned on page one this thread. He had a m3, 225s would be way too narrow with how wide m3s are, so i get it, I'm wondering if the m3 rims I got from him will accept a 225? I've never researched rims and tires so much in my life, very confusing stuff. 245/45/18 is the easiest cheapest tires to find, would they work? the 235/40/18s were a little wide up front, minimal rubbage, only in reverse wheel cranked max in one direction. I'm afraid a 245/45/18 would rub real bad, but who knows?
Any advice what you would do?
Here's another pic I took yesterday at the car wash, I like these rims better.

[adidoman]

The only problem is that the snowiest part of the season isn't even here yet for CO. March is the snowiest month

[matt392]

::Update::
Got jb4 installed running map 2 currently, started at 1 then 5 but happy with 2 the most, i had the mhd flasher on map1 when the jb4 was installed I'm not sure if that is what a back end is called or what but I have the tablet hooked up inside its pretty cool having boost gauges and the ability to log etc.. At the same time 5" vrsf fmic, lower and upper chargepipes, hks bov, new plugs were installed, I later got a m3 rep bumper and skirts waiting for the paint, and of course my bms dual intakes. She's coming along nicely, the jb4 is awesome, i do wish there was a way to have more throttle response at lower rpms, theres got to be a map or some sort of customization? She pulls hard at around 3500 rpm range but from a stop the response is sluggish...?
Now hard to swallow the price tag of good coilovers but that will be next for my struts are blown and the oem lift kit bmw fitted originally for this coupe has to go. Anyone want to chime in on something under a grand in parts? Coil/spring kit? Heard no h&rs, eibach, but websites are telling me not for the xi model? but people do it still? Or just grab the KW1s and just suck up the $1600, for the xi is tricky finding suspension.
Also.. Did some dip diy stuff, "backlines" and wheels, I'm ok with the way it turned out for labor and cost were pretty minimal, if it stays on a couple months cool if not its easy to peel. Pics...

[adidoman]

Originally Posted by matt392

::Update::
Got jb4 installed running map 2 currently, started at 1 then 5 but happy with 2 the most, i had the mhd flasher on map1 when the jb4 was installed I'm not sure if that is what a back end is called or what but I have the tablet hooked up inside its pretty cool having boost gauges and the ability to log etc.. At the same time 5" vrsf fmic, lower and upper chargepipes, hks bov, new plugs were installed, I later got a m3 rep bumper and skirts waiting for the paint, and of course my bms dual intakes. She's coming along nicely, the jb4 is awesome, i do wish there was a way to have more throttle response at lower rpms, theres got to be a map or some sort of customization? She pulls hard at around 3500 rpm range but from a stop the response is sluggish...?
Now hard to swallow the price tag of good coilovers but that will be next for my struts are blown and the oem lift kit bmw fitted originally for this coupe has to go. Anyone want to chime in on something under a grand in parts? Coil/spring kit? Heard no h&rs, eibach, but websites are telling me not for the xi model? but people do it still? Or just grab the KW1s and just suck up the $1600, for the xi is tricky finding suspension.
Also.. Did some dip diy stuff, "backlines" and wheels, I'm ok with the way it turned out for labor and cost were pretty minimal, if it stays on a couple months cool if not its easy to peel. Pics...

For the Eibach, the springs you want to get are for RWD, they don't make xi springs; there are countless people on here that have run the RWD Eibach pro springs. The shocks/struts NEED to be xi specific, however. Koni and Bilstein look like the best options. I'm trying to decide myself if I want to do coils or a Eibach/Bilstein combo. I've been reading through a countless number of old threads