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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > Suspension | Brakes | Chassis > Do I really need adjustable end links



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      11-25-2019, 08:02 AM   #23
TheMidnightNarwhal
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bbnks2 View Post
There are two separate things here:

#1 you tighten the sway bar at ride height to ensure that it is oriented correctly AT RIDE HEGIHT. The stock sway bar bushings are designed to bind on the bar when tight. You want the bar in the correct position at the cars STATIC RIDE HEIGHT. Not locked in place at full droop (car in the air). The affects how the sway bar is leverage in roll.

#2 adjustable links have to be used when lowered. Again, this affects the orientation of the sway bar and how it is leveraged in roll.

If you ignore this advice, and simply tighten down the bushings and adjust the end-links at full droop, then your sway will have a bunch of pre-load on it when you put the car down on the ground.

This also works in complete opposite effect as well where things have preload on them when you jack the car up (if adjusted correctly at ride height). You will need to pry the end-links out of the sway bar. And then good luck trying to get them back in.

Most people don't understand all this and just slap shit together. Your choice.
I understand the bushing concept at ride height what I don't is how torquing the sway bar by itself (not attached to end links) when on the ground or in the air will do anything because there is nothing pushing/rotating on it. Where it mounts to the subframe it's a solid piece that does not move weather there is preload or not.

But it does make sense if I install sway bar and do not torque it to subframe, attach end links and torque them, then drop the car to the ground and torque sway bar to subframe mount.

I just want to confirm because the TIS doesn't specify this but I can only assume so and I need to confirm for my OCD.
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      11-25-2019, 08:13 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheMidnightNarwhal View Post
I understand the bushing concept at ride height what I don't is how torquing the sway bar by itself (not attached to end links) when on the ground or in the air will do anything because there is nothing pushing/rotating on it. Where it mounts to the subframe it's a solid piece that does not move weather there is preload or not.
It's not necessary to torque the sway bar mounts with the car in the air. Especially with aftermarket sway bar bushings that don't bind. It makes no difference.

But, what this does help with is when working with the stock bushings. The sway bar won't move when you put the car on the ground, no, but it's orientation relative to the struts and controls arms WILL change. Meaning, you will have to know exactly how to orient the bar with the car in the air such that it sits in the perfect position with the car on the ground. If you know that position then go for it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TheMidnightNarwhal View Post
But it does make sense if I install sway bar and do not torque it to subframe, attach end links and torque them, then drop the car to the ground and torque sway bar to subframe mount.
I get what you're saying. If the sway bar isn't tight then it will just pivot when you put the car on the ground and everything will be fine. True but then the sway bar will probably be pointing at the wrong angle. Bad orientation of the sway bar not only affects the effectiveness of the sway bar but it also could cause the sway bar to interfere with the chassis or the control arms in roll. When lowered you have a very small window to work with. Wrong position of the bar at ride height could result in a knocking noise every time you hit a little bump in the road. Sway bar will literally bang off the control arm.

You don't want to install the end-links until the car is on the ground. The length will change.

1) Put car on ground.
2) Position sway bar so that it is oriented correctly between the control arms.
3) tighten down the sway bar bushings (now the sway bar is fixed in this position)
4) measure end-link length
5) install end-links

now everything will be the correct position and length at static ride height. This really is not that complicated. ramps are cheap if you don't already have some and is the underlying reason for trying to work around having to put the car on the ground.

Last edited by bbnks2; 11-25-2019 at 08:26 AM..
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      11-25-2019, 08:28 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bbnks2 View Post
It's not necessary to torque the sway bar mounts with the car in the air. Especially with aftermarket sway bar bushings that don't bind. It makes no difference.

But, what this does help with is when working with the stock bushings. The sway bar won't move when you put the car on the ground, no, but it's orientation relative to the struts and controls arms WILL change. Meaning, you will have to know exactly how to orient the bar with the car in the air such that it sits in the perfect position with the car on the ground. If you know that position then go for it.



I get what you're saying. If the sway bar isn't tight then it will just pivot when you put the car on the ground and everything will be fine. True but then the sway bar will probably be pointing at the wrong angle. Bad orientation of the sway bar not only affects the effectiveness of the sway bar but it also could cause the sway bar to interfere with the chassis or the control arms in roll. When lowered you have a very small window to work with. Wrong position of the bar at ride height could result in a knocking noise every time you hit a little bump in the road. Sway bar will literally bang off the control arm.

You don't want to install the end-links until the car is on the ground. The length will change.

1) Put car on ground.
2) Position sway bar so that it is oriented correctly between the control arms.
3) tighten down the sway bar bushings (now the sway bar is fixed in this position)
4) measure end-link length
5) install end-links

now everything will be the correct position and length at static ride height. This really is not that complicated. ramps are cheap if you don't already have some and that ids why you're asking to skip steps.
Ok thanks for the clarification!

Yeah I have low profile ramps to be able to jack the middle of the bar but not normal ramps, I will probably grab a set to do this then when I change them.
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