[alex sol]

checking cam timing

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...mshaft/I5dx5Y2

[Yozh]

PM’d you https://www.specialtyautotoolrental....t-tool-116321/

[alex sol]

do i need to buy a set of these? or just find top dead center cylinder 1 and check timing marks... intake cam and exhaust cam...

what i did... bought a motor with 150k miles from a junk yard with 90 day warranty

high pressure fuel pump was missing

turned the motor a few times to see if it would spin

installed my hpfp and made no changes nor checked the timing..

what i'll need to do...

remove injectors, fuel rail, cam cover - check timing?

should i have done this prior to installing the oil pan gasket as i could have check top dead with the oil pan off... any other way to do this?

pretty sure you can check the cam timing in the car without removing the oil pan... also have seen ways to make sure the valves are all closed (top dead for each cylinder) when doing the cbu cleaning

Finally figured the Bimmerpost app and how to load pics. Heres the oil pan gasket re and re

[Yozh]

If if I were you, I would change all three chains (timing, hpfp and oil pump) and all the sprockets, guides and chain tensioner. This is easy while you have motor out. Setting TDC with oil pan off is easy. But you can do other conventional ways. You can rent that tool and this will make checking timing easy and precise. Change your VCG at the time and you will have a happy motor for another 150-200k miles. Did you get my PM?

[alex sol]

@yozh

Got the pm message and see I can pick up the set in Cali for about $35. and reading the recent chain failures with interest. My donor motor from a high mileage wreck so makes sense to do the work and start with proper fresh motor. Got my first donor motor which was seized when purchased and opened up. Totally mashed crank and block would need magnaflux to check for cracks and stress. And came with injectors hpfp power steering head in okay shape and valve cover burnt. Strange that it was seized and burnt. Insurance job maybe?!,! Meantime have my original motor also seized so mainly want to get the d running again and maybe blow out or drive for a bit while keeping the rest for spares and doing proper rebuild. new everything. Chains guides sprockets lines turbos maybe, seals gaskets and maybe look at bottom end rings mains and con rod bearings. Not prepared to do this.

[alex sol]

i had some time to pull the fuel rail, injectors and valve cover, pulled out glow plug #1 and found top dead center with a bbq skewer, as soon as it hit top and just as the skewer started to lower, i check the timing marks... three times in a row, i hit the marks dead on.

there's a arrow on the intake cam when looking from rear to front of motor and two small dots on the exhaust cam... the arrow needs to meet the two dots in the middle and... they did so i'm satisfied the engine is properly timed.

thanks @yozh for the russian how to (they pull the chains with the engine in car....

i'm not planning to change any of this stuff for now... just wanna get it running and then will tear down my original block and see if it can rebuilt... then look at new rings, bearings, mains, con rod bearings, seals, gaskets, chain, guides and sprockets...

[alex sol]

Rejoined the transmission and ready for install. I'm not 100% clear on the vacuum line situation. I seem to have three going no where and one empty spot on the line with the four tee offs.

One off the big can that is next to dpf and adjacent to turbos towards the firewall

[alex sol]

major setback. tried to start up the 335d after reconnecting everything with the new donor motor and new harness from donor. no start and just a bunch of errors on the carly. when i say no start, i mean not even a bump... just a complete no start.

checking all connections, recharging battery as it hasn't run since April and will check back.

[alex sol]

oh, the major setback is that i didn't connect the transmission properly with the four large m10 bolts and rather used some of the bolts on the engine oil pan. when picking up the motor and trans connected, i hear a snap... and that was the engine oil pan cracking in one corner... next step. remove motor, replace with spare engine oil pan. reconnect.

try to get a start first...

[Yozh]

Wow. Good luck. Lots of work. You are almost there.

[alex sol]

Dropped in within minutes with the three point connection. Seat belts on the engine holders and chain on the middle.

[alex sol]

Made a big difference moving the steering out of the way. And subframe loosened about 3/4 in.

[alex sol]

Have a question about no start. Would it be due to a number of the errors on the carly? Or sensors that will not allow start if sensor shows no coolant?

[Torqu3]

Originally Posted by alex sol

Have a question about no start. Would it be due to a number of the errors on the carly? Or sensors that will not allow start if sensor shows no coolant?

DDE connections not properly seated could cause it too. That's a common error when people remove their DDE and plug it back in.

[alex sol]

@torqu3. Good tip. I'll check all the dde connections though was quite careful to push em in 90 % and then use the plastic tabs to bring in the final 10%.

I had originally left out the big red power wire that runs off the alternator and starter. Reconnected and still no start.

[robnitro]

Do you have the ground strap connected?

[ranthum]

Originally Posted by alex sol

Have a question about no start. Would it be due to a number of the errors on the carly? Or sensors that will not allow start if sensor shows no coolant?

Try foot on brake and press start button. Then release and press and hold start button with your foot still on the brake. Does it crank without firing?

[alex sol]

Yes. Ground strap near starter connected and will try the various ways to start. Press and hold. Press and let go. With brake. Without brake and combos in between. Last time it started was march 2019 and I've tried to crank several times but engine was seized. Possible the starter is toast though unlikely. Also possible battery toast due to sitting though I've trickled it a few times. And tried to jump wtih strong battery last night.

[alex sol]

I Think I found the reason the starter was not even making a single click. I am currently charging my battery and will test tomorrow. Looks like I have the wires in the wrong places. Please advise if this looks right to you. The main red wire held on by 13mm the 10 mm red wire and the black wire held down by 10 mm. I had improperly wired it. Can anyone confirm this is correct??

[MrSweet1991]

Originally Posted by alex sol

I Think I found the reason the starter was not even making a single click. I am currently charging my battery and will test tomorrow. Looks like I have the wires in the wrong places. Please advise if this looks right to you. The main red wire held on by 13mm the 10 mm red wire and the black wire held down by 10 mm. I had improperly wired it. Can anyone confirm this is correct??

I took this incase it helps

https://youtu.be/cj0voFQbylU

[Nadir Point]

Does the main big red starter wire have 12v on it when you hit the start button with the Fob engaged and foot on the brake?

[alex sol]

Spent most of the day in the garage with two different buddies helping at different times.
Set up the d for engine removal. I had not re installed all the accessories like rad ac condenser hoses etc. So pulled the motor out at 3pm. Split the tranny and Replaced the oil pan. Reconnected tranny and slipped back in by 10 pm. Full day!!