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      03-27-2022, 06:56 AM   #1
moreensby
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E92 325i - Misfiring with several codes, looking for some help!

I've recently got my first E92 57 plate and I am experiencing some issues.

I felt an initial misfire yesterday and scanned it using car scanner, this is what I got back:

============1==============
2B05
Raw code: 2B05
ECU: Transmission/4WD
Status: Test conditions are met, Validated and stored in non volatile memory

============2==============
29CE
Raw code: 29CE
ECU: Transmission/4WD
Status: Test conditions are met, Validated fault has been present during this drive cycle

============3==============
29D9
Raw code: 29D9
ECU: Transmission/4WD
Status: Pending fault present during this driving cycle

============4==============
2B05
Raw code: 2B05
ECU: Rear heater and A/C
Status: Test conditions are met, Validated and stored in non volatile memory, Validated fault present at time of request

============5==============
29CE
Raw code: 29CE
ECU: Rear heater and A/C
Status: Test conditions are met, Validated fault has been present during this drive cycle

============6==============
29D9
Raw code: 29D9
ECU: Rear heater and A/C
Status: Pending fault present during this driving cycle


I drove it for about 120 miles and left it for 30 minutes, and came back to it and when I started the engine, the idling was much rougher and the check engine light came on.
I rescanned it and it now gives this:

============1==============
P0302
Raw code: 0302
ECU: Engine control unit
Status: Confirmed
OBDII: Cylinder 2 - misfire detected
BMW: Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected

============2==============
P0175
Raw code: 0175
ECU: Engine control unit
Status: Pending
OBDII: System too rich, bank 2
BMW: System Too Rich

============3==============
2B05
Raw code: 2B05
ECU: Engine control unit
Status: Test conditions are met, Validated and stored in non volatile memory

============4==============
29CE
Raw code: 29CE
ECU: Engine control unit
Status: Test conditions are met, Validated and stored in non volatile memory, Validated fault has been present during this drive cycle

============5==============
29D9
Raw code: 29D9
ECU: Engine control unit
Status: Pending fault present during this driving cycle

============6==============
2E84
Raw code: 2E84
ECU: Engine control unit
Status: Test conditions are met

============7==============
2A2C
Raw code: 2A2C
ECU: Engine control unit
Status: Pending fault present during this driving cycle, Validated fault present at time of request, Validated fault has been present during this drive cycle

============8==============
2B05
Raw code: 2B05
ECU: Engine control unit
Status: Test conditions are met, Validated and stored in non volatile memory

============9==============
29CE
Raw code: 29CE
ECU: Engine control unit
Status: Test conditions are met, Validated and stored in non volatile memory, Validated fault has been present during this drive cycle

============10==============
29D9
Raw code: 29D9
ECU: Engine control unit
Status: Pending fault present during this driving cycle

============11==============
2E84
Raw code: 2E84
ECU: Engine control unit
Status: Test conditions are met

============12==============
2A2C
Raw code: 2A2C
ECU: Engine control unit
Status: Pending fault present during this driving cycle, Validated fault present at time of request, Validated fault has been present during this drive cycle

============13==============
2B05
Raw code: 2B05
ECU: Electric motor-driver reel (left)
Status: Test conditions are met, Validated and stored in non volatile memory

============14==============
29CE
Raw code: 29CE
ECU: Electric motor-driver reel (left)
Status: Test conditions are met, Validated and stored in non volatile memory, Validated fault has been present during this drive cycle

============15==============
29D9
Raw code: 29D9
ECU: Electric motor-driver reel (left)
Status: Pending fault present during this driving cycle

============16==============
2E84
Raw code: 2E84
ECU: Electric motor-driver reel (left)
Status: Test conditions are met

============17==============
2A2C
Raw code: 2A2C
ECU: Electric motor-driver reel (left)
Status: Pending fault present during this driving cycle, Validated fault present at time of request, Validated fault has been present during this drive cycle

============18==============
2B05
Raw code: 2B05
ECU: Emergency response unit
Status: Test conditions are met, Validated and stored in non volatile memory

============19==============
29CE
Raw code: 29CE
ECU: Emergency response unit
Status: Test conditions are met, Validated and stored in non volatile memory, Validated fault has been present during this drive cycle

============20==============
29D9
Raw code: 29D9
ECU: Emergency response unit
Status: Pending fault present during this driving cycle

============21==============
2E84
Raw code: 2E84
ECU: Emergency response unit
Status: Test conditions are met

============22==============
2A2C
Raw code: 2A2C
ECU: Emergency response unit
Status: Pending fault present during this driving cycle, Validated fault present at time of request, Validated fault has been present during this drive cycle

============23==============
2B05
Raw code: 2B05
ECU: Gear selector switch
Status: Test conditions are met, Validated and stored in non volatile memory

============24==============
29CE
Raw code: 29CE
ECU: Gear selector switch
Status: Test conditions are met, Validated and stored in non volatile memory, Validated fault has been present during this drive cycle

============25==============
29D9
Raw code: 29D9
ECU: Gear selector switch
Status: Pending fault present during this driving cycle

============26==============
2E84
Raw code: 2E84
ECU: Gear selector switch
Status: Test conditions are met

============27==============
2A2C
Raw code: 2A2C
ECU: Gear selector switch
Status: Pending fault present during this driving cycle, Validated fault present at time of request, Validated fault has been present during this drive cycle


It's a strange one because the misfire wasn't problematic on the 120 mile journey and only became noticeable when starting the engine again. I drove it for about 5 miles, it's mostly notable when revving.

Please let me know if there's more information needed, I'll try and get everything I can.

Appreciate any help!
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      03-27-2022, 12:40 PM   #2
therealdb1
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Leaky injector perhaps?

You have an awful lot of codes there many of which may be historic and not relevant.

Now you have noted them I would clear them all and see what reappears after a few drives.
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      03-27-2022, 03:40 PM   #3
moreensby
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Quote:
Leaky injector perhaps?
I'll have a look tomorrow to see if I can find any fuel on the spark plug, seems to be pointing towards cylinder 2.

I was wondering if they were historic codes, but then why would they not come up on the first check? I'll clear the codes tomorrow and see if I get anything back. If it is the case that they are still relevant, some major ones in there such as the fuel pump and NOx sensor.
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      03-28-2022, 04:18 AM   #4
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Be aware that codes can be red herrings at times.
Many can simply be symptoms of an entirely different fault, for example, anything relating to fuel or exhaust shouldn't be taken too seriously if you have a misfire since unburnt fuel going down the exhaust pipe is bound to upset the monitoring.
Get your pot 2 misfire resolved first and then worry about the others, if indeed they come back!
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      03-28-2022, 12:50 PM   #5
moreensby
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Thanks a lot for your help so far.

I feel like an idiot, but I've just taken the engine cover off and realised it's an N53. I guess nothing really changes much in this case regarding the issue, but that was a bit of a shock.

I'll give the injector an inspection. Also worth noting that the gasket will need replacing as the head is oily. I also noticed what seemed like some light smoke that came out of the exhaust, so I presume that's another issue with coolant
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      03-28-2022, 02:34 PM   #6
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So I turned the engine on and tried pulling the connector out of each plug, seemed like they were all firing as the engine didn't like having them pulled out for any of them, including the 2nd cylinder.

I swapped out the coil pack from number 2 with number 1 and cleared and rescanned the OBD, nothing came up. Funnily enough, the coil pack in number 2 was very new, and the coil pack in number 1 was definitely worn, it seemed to have the bottom cut off it too.

It's still not running 100% so I think it may be something more, I'll pull the spark plug out tomorrow and inspect further.
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      03-29-2022, 04:25 AM   #7
0l0dom0l0
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I have fixed all my N53 running issues with:

Walnut blast
New plugs
New bosh OE coils
Replacement NOX sensor (I got one second hand and soldered it to the old one - this way you can use any 8 wire ngk nox sensor)
Registered a replacement NOX sensor
Updated my DME
Re set ALL adaptions and re learned them

Rough running can be caused by:

a poorly CCV (valve cover gasket leaks are usually an indication of this).
A poorly NOX sensor
Bad coils
Old DME calibration

And lastly, leaky injectors.

Given the cost of the injectors these days, I always reccomend doing the other things first.

I
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      03-29-2022, 05:18 AM   #8
therealdb1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 0l0dom0l0 View Post

Rough running can be caused by:

I
The OP is not complaining of "rough running" though but a misfire and the fault codes are backing up that observation on cylinder 2.

The fact that it happens immediately at cold start but does not appear to be a problem when running, together with the fault codes relating to mixture suggests a leaky injector, or a spark plug / coil braking down when cold. The plug and coil appear to have been eliminated by swapping to a different cylinder.

At the moment the problem is a long way from decoking and DME updates.
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      03-29-2022, 10:18 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by therealdb1 View Post
The OP is not complaining of "rough running" though but a misfire and the fault codes are backing up that observation on cylinder 2.

The fact that it happens immediately at cold start but does not appear to be a problem when running, together with the fault codes relating to mixture suggests a leaky injector, or a spark plug / coil braking down when cold. The plug and coil appear to have been eliminated by swapping to a different cylinder.

At the moment the problem is a long way from decoking and DME updates.
Where does the OP say that it is a cold start misfire?

Actually, a DME update is one of the first things that I would reccomend for a poorly N53. Most have not been updated since the injector recalls over 10+ years ago. There have been several software updates available since and these include misfire detection sensitivity. It is also not expensive to do (can be done for free if you have the right software).

I agree a decoke is not strictly necessary. I reccomend it because from my personal experience of doing mine, the middle 2 cylinders end up with substantially more deposit formation on them from the EGR system and I had some pretty dirty inlet valves even after 35k miles. If someone is mechanically minded it can be done on the driveway in an afternoon. Any imbalance of airflow has the potential to cause smooth running issues.

Cylinder 2 is not on bank 2 either, so unlikely that the bank 2 code is being triggered by the cylinder 2 misfire.....

I have listed my personal experience with sorting my N53 rough running, which did not involve spending £1800 on a new set of injectors for it and am providing this information for others who may also be able to resolve theirs by following the simple and relatively inexpensive steps above. You could do all the above for less than the cost of a single injector.
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      03-29-2022, 10:25 AM   #10
0l0dom0l0
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Another member also experiencing good results from IV cleaning:

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1909081
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      03-29-2022, 05:17 PM   #11
therealdb1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 0l0dom0l0 View Post
Where does the OP say that it is a cold start misfire?
He says he drove for 120 miles without a problem but noted a misfire when he started it up again.

The subsequent pot 2 misfire code suggests potential flooding or electrical issue on that cylinder. Electrics are already eliminated.

He doesn't need to spend anything to confirm a leaky injector. Swap the suspect one with another cylinder, recode the two affected cylinders and try again. If the misfire moves problem identified. If it doesn't then look elsewhere.

I am not saying what you have done is not a good idea long term but his short term problem appears to be a misfire on a single cylinder which he can confirm without expense.
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      03-31-2022, 12:30 PM   #12
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With the cover off do you see any soot around the injector? A friend just recently had misfires on his n53, worse when cold and under heavy load, turned out to be the seal on the injector damaged. 15 quid job.
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      04-03-2022, 04:27 PM   #13
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Hi,

N52 are port-injected so they should not be any soot building up in your cylinder or the injector itself, and issues surrounding N52 injectors are not common at all.

It very much could be an injector for the N53 as they are prone to failure. Did you confirm if you moved the Injector from the affected cylinder to another one to see if the issue persists to the other cylinder?

Was there any oil in the affected cylinders to suggest a spark plug well gasket leak, and has the rocker cover been replaced? If it is approaching a 1XX,XXX miles and no record of change, you may want to change this.

Lastly, can you confirm what OBD scanner you are using? If its not INPA/Autel code reader, consider forking out £50 (on or around) for the a vehicle diagnostics by a BMW Specialist to identify the issue. If you buy the cheaper OBD scanners for £30/40, they will not diagnose your car with the appropriate issue. For example, a VANOS code on a cheap OBD will confirm a camshaft issue, which could be anything - but INPA/Autel would have picked it.

Let me know how you get on, and good luck!
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      04-11-2022, 02:46 PM   #14
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So I thought I'd drive it for a couple of weeks (another 125 miles) to see if the issue would reappear again.

I've had absolutely 0 issues with misfires since then, it idles and runs without any issues (apart from a random side/daytime light failure message that is incorrect, maybe the connector needs a look at?)

I haven't bothered swapping the injectors out because there have been no issues so far, so I can't tell exactly if there was an issue there but I didn't want to commit to that job until there was a misfire again. There wasn't any soot around the injector either, it's clean.

I haven't had any codes come back, so that also seems fine. No issues with CCV, however, there is some oil on top of the valve cover, so that gasket will need replacing at some point, as I do get a smell of oil in the cabin after a while. The AC also seems to be spent, so that needs some work too.

Quote:
Lastly, can you confirm what OBD scanner you are using? If its not INPA/Autel code reader, consider forking out £50 (on or around) for the a vehicle diagnostics by a BMW Specialist to identify the issue.
I just have a cheap one, could you recommend the relevant hardware/software to use?

I really appreciate all the tips so far, have learned a lot from this post, luckily most of the knowledge wasn't really needed.
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      04-12-2022, 06:24 AM   #15
therealdb1
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If you are happy with software installation get yourself a copy of INPA or ISTA. The latter is a later version but both are very powerful. They are both available free from various sources including this forum I believe.
All you need is an old laptop, doesn't have to be anything fancy XP or later is fine, and a lead to connect to the car and you will have everything you'll ever need.
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      04-17-2022, 03:41 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moreensby View Post
So I thought I'd drive it for a couple of weeks (another 125 miles) to see if the issue would reappear again.

I've had absolutely 0 issues with misfires since then, it idles and runs without any issues (apart from a random side/daytime light failure message that is incorrect, maybe the connector needs a look at?)

I haven't bothered swapping the injectors out because there have been no issues so far, so I can't tell exactly if there was an issue there but I didn't want to commit to that job until there was a misfire again. There wasn't any soot around the injector either, it's clean.

I haven't had any codes come back, so that also seems fine. No issues with CCV, however, there is some oil on top of the valve cover, so that gasket will need replacing at some point, as I do get a smell of oil in the cabin after a while. The AC also seems to be spent, so that needs some work too.



I just have a cheap one, could you recommend the relevant hardware/software to use?

I really appreciate all the tips so far, have learned a lot from this post, luckily most of the knowledge wasn't really needed.
Just be careful that if there is oil on top of the value cover as opposed to the side of the cylinder head, that it may be the PCV has cracked. With this being said, you would know because the engine would make a whistling noise. You could have completely plebbed it when inserting new oil , where the oil has just spilled everywhere and there is only one way to go - which is down aha.

If it does misfire again, then consider changing the injectors - but if it does not show on your engine dash, that's fine. One thing I would say is to use premium fuel occasionally, and use E5 (v-power/momentum) wherever possible, and if your wallet allows it. This is not because of the performance gains, but it reduces the chance of knock when the engine is combusting. If you are using anything below 95RON< - you should be cautious of this, as it could be reason for the misfires.

I would fork out or download INPA, and get your head around it like the above forum member's post has mentioned. Owning a BMW can be pretty hands-on (in a good way), so being prepared will minimise your chance of failure. INPA has helped me a ton in understanding this car.

Lastly, do make sure that the car has a walnut blast - it makes a world of difference for a 335i (direct injection) and the same is applicable for other DI-engines to minimise misfires, poor economy, and weak performance.

EDIT TO POST: Your car is running rich with too little air. Did you unplug the MAF sensor, or did not insert the airbox proper. Also if you have dismantled the car recently, can you confirm what you changed?

Could very well be spark plug/injector. See how you get on in the weeks/months to come, and if it happens again - take action on it.
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