[OG Style]

I didn't buy the gauges. It's free in there loaner tool program. The cost is just to cover the cost if I don't return it. The rear line has the valve. We did have trouble removing it initially. I have a pump on stand by if I need it. I just need to figure how to use the gauges.


The check valve seem ok but I can't test how much pressure it takes.

[mainbearing]

It is great if Autozone has that gauge on the loaner list. I just did not see it when doing the searches on the loaner tools (I am familiar with their loaner program).

Anyway, the first video by Cardone shows how to connect the gauge inline to the output of the pump. I guess you just need to find the correct thread adapters from all those in the box.

If this is the correct check valve, then see if it is somehow blocked. I do not know how the check valve is supposed to regulate pressure, but can only guess that it prevents fluid back flow?

I am not sure how a check valve would be a problem (it does not regulate pressure that I know of). Perhaps the BMW tech would know.

BMW steering check valve hollow bolt:
https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_In...I=312&DID=3170

[OG Style]

I'm not sure how it would regulate it either unless it has a lot of spring pressure to slow it down. I watch the video and it looks like I have to have the new rack in to test it with the gauges. Wouldn't I isk blowing out the seals to do the test?

[mainbearing]

You can always put in another reman and see how it works out. This way you save the money on a steering pump. It may be good just to try out, this way we know if it was a bad rebuilt rack or not. It does mean more work for you if it blows again.

That is why I would just put in a new aftermarket pump, because from what I read, it sounds like an over pressure problem. Reman racks are supposed to be pressure tested before leaving the factory. Then again, we never know.

You can inspect the banjo bolt with the one-way check valve in it. If the check valve is on the return side, then all it prevents is fluid getting sucked back into the rack as you turn the steering. This is my guess anyway. The pressure regulation for all I know has always been done within the pump by a regulator valve.

[OG Style]

The check valve moves freely. I can blow a little bit of air through it going the wrong way. At least I think I can hear some but I can't feel it. I order a check valve and it will be in tomorrow. It seems like business are letting the customer do the quality test instead if doing it there self

[mainbearing]

I guess we will find out more tomorrow.

You can compare both valves first, using compressed air at 30 psi. That may be a better test.

If both valves flow the same, then you know it probably is not the valve. With a new valve in hand, might as well use it with the second reman rack and see how that works out.

[OG Style]

I should be able to blow air in it. There no way I can return the valve. I had to pay overnight shipping on it. I have to track down some crush washers tomorrow. The bango fitting wit the valve was on the original rack so tight that I thought we were going to strip the head off.

[OG Style]

Do you know the pressure range and what Bangor fitting i hook up to? I couldn't find it on pro demand.

[mainbearing]

I have never done testing on the steering system. Looking on realoem, banjo #13 and 8 are both M16, but no thread pitch is given.

The high pressure banjo with the check valve is M14x1.5. M14 is likely easier to find than M16 banjos. It does not look like an in-line connection is possible based on the realoem diagram below.

If the check valve is on the inlet side to the rack (high pressure), then I doubt that was the source of your problem.

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=32_1569

I did not see anything on E90 pressures, but E46 it was like 110-120 bars, which is a whopping 1650-1800 psi!
https://www.e46fanatics.com/threads/.../post-13595667

[OG Style]

#5 is the check valve and its coming stripper from the pump.

[mainbearing]

#5 banjo with check valve (M14x1.5, 27.4mm) I think is for anti-kick to the steering wheel. So I doubt that was the problem for the over pressure. But if the BMW tech suggested that, maybe try it with the 2nd reman rack and see how it goes.

[OG Style]

Does anyone have the torque specs for the banjo bolts?

[mainbearing]

M14 (I believe that would be the top one) is 22 lb/ft and M16 (I believe that would be the lower one) is 26 lb/ft:

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=471081

[OG Style]

Thank you. I think I'm going to go ahead and change the pump. I would guess the banjo bolt on it needs 26 ft lb.

[OG Style]

The new pump came with a o ring. I have no idea where it goes.

[OG Style]

I have the car assembled and I've got my steering wheel and 1/8 of a turn off. Is there a easy way to fix the steering wheel? I still don't know where the oring went.

[OG Style]

Now I'm getting a steering angle fault. Is there a easy was to calibrate it?

[mainbearing]

Looking at the diagrams I do not see where the o-ring goes either. The banjo bolts will use metal crush washers and not o-rings that I know of. At least all the banjo bolts I have seen all use two metal washers on both sides of the hose banjo.

Was the steering wheel kept stationary with the seat belt while the rack was moved? And was the steering wheel centered to begin with? There is a clockspring that can be damaged if the steering wheel is allowed to turn excessively.

Was the rack centered before install? Use a vice grip to check how many turns the rack has lock-to-lock. Then turn it to the center point.

These two steps are the most important in ensuring the steering wheel and rack are both centered on install. As the tie rods then can be adjusted by an alignment shop, if you only put them the same number of thread turns as before.

Therefore, with those two steps done correctly, did you count the out tie rod threads on removal? And put them back the same number of threads on the new rack?

If you are in the ballpark you should not be getting the angle error. I believe INPA can clear the adapations, which the ECU will then relearn the angle automatically. But then you will have to adapt the gas pedal (key-on, engine-off) and depress the pedal and release. I think those are it (I did not think that reset affects the moon roof or windows).

[mainbearing]

I did not see a good video on the E90 or even E46 on rack adjustment and replacement. Here is a generic video.

In this case, outer tie rods are installed before the rack is put in the vehicle (and not left on the steering knuckle).

0:30, secure the steering wheel in position.
4:24, rack adjustment before install.

[OG Style]

The steering wheel should not have moved when the rack was off. The wheel is about 1/16 oh a turn off center right now. I did replace the outer tie rod end on the passenger side. I cleared the fault and it went away till I drove up the road. I counted the turns and measured them. The new one is a little different design.

[mainbearing]

If you were sure the steering wheel was centered and did not move, then that should be fine. I would not just rely on the steering wheel lock and had used the seat belt to hold the wheel as a precaution when I worked on the steering.

Anyway, if you turn the steering wheel lock to lock now, are you getting the same turns both left and right? This is important because of the orientation of the pinion spool valve, not to mention the clock spring might get stretched.

If the steering turns equally in both directions you should be fine, and the 1/16 turn off is probably just the tie rods and can be taken care of easily by an alignment shop.

It is really unfortunate that BMW does not sell rebuild seal kits for these racks like older ones do.

[OG Style]

I can turn about 1 1/4 left and 1 3/4 right. Could the difference be because of the tie rod end?