[b92]

Decided on the Wavetrac LSD, stock 3.08 gearing (manual). Also throwing in some Turner solid aluminum rear subframe bushings and M3/stock diff bushings while I'm at it.

Also, I'm beginning to gather parts for an F8x brake conversion. Should be a decent upgrade for a fraction of the price of a true BBK, and still aesthetically pleasing.

Edit: returned the PowerFlex diff bushings and went with the the M3 front & stock rear diff bushing combo.

[BSM n54iS]

Originally Posted by b92

Decided on the Wavetrac LSD, stock 3.08 gearing (manual). Also throwing in some Turner solid aluminum rear subframe bushings and PowerFlex diff bushings while I'm at it.

Also, I'm beginning to gather parts for an F8x brake conversion. Should be a decent upgrade for a fraction of the price of a true BBK, and still aesthetically pleasing.

That's a similar route I'd be taking also. Let us know how it feels when you get it

[Fehim92]

Hello, new to the forums. Here is my 2013 Lemans blue with grey dct. I am trying to see if anybody with dct tried ford 8.8 rear end? How do you like it and just want some feed back.

Thank you

[Go Horns!]

Gave the 335is a bath today.

[11LMBiSTT]

Anyone interested in a Vac built Quaife LSD with stock FD, full pumpkin... less than 10k miles, located in Southern California... PM me!

Also have some Ohlin R+T with swift springs and Vorshlag camber plates.

[b92]

Originally Posted by 11LMBiSTT

Anyone interested in a Vac built Quaife LSD with stock FD, full pumpkin... less than 10k miles, located in Southern California... PM me!

Also have some Ohlin R+T with swift springs and Vorshlag camber plates.

Would have loved this before I dropped an arm & a leg on my Wavetrac. Installing mine this weekend along with the bushings I mentioned previously.

[Erebus370]

Hey everybody. Here to introduce my newest financial mistake. A dead clean 2012 335IS 6MT in Lemans Blue on Beige leather. Came across this thing and I couldn't resist. I knew the 6mt's rarity, but didn't realize there were only 7 made in this spec. I've been digging around, but I can't even find a picture of another one! Let me know if anybody here shares this spec!
Don't mind my missing headlight washer cover. Already go it replaced

[NoGuru]

Nice find! What are your plans, stock, FBO, turn it into a full blown race car?

[Erebus370]

Originally Posted by NoGuru

Nice find! What are your plans, stock, FBO, turn it into a full blown race car?

Nothing too big. Planning on fbo. Don't want to do anything too intrusive since it's so clean

[335ISblk]

Can anyone please direct to me a video on how the change the front turn signal bulbs on our model?

I took the car out for an errand and the front drivers side turn signal bulb went out. Car's 11 years old so yeah I guess it just went.

I cant seem to find a video showing our specific model because the regular 335i has this little bracket behind the wheel so you dont need to remove the wheel at all and I dont see that on ours when I looked. If this involves removing the wheel i'll have to bring it to my guy. Hoping this can be done from under the hood instead

Lastly what is the part that our car actually uses?

Thank you

[TheMidnightNarwhal]

Originally Posted by 335ISblk

Can anyone please direct to me a video on how the change the front turn signal bulbs on our model?

I took the car out for an errand and the front drivers side turn signal bulb went out. Car's 11 years old so yeah I guess it just went.

I cant seem to find a video showing our specific model because the regular 335i has this little bracket behind the wheel so you dont need to remove the wheel at all and I dont see that on ours when I looked. If this involves removing the wheel i'll have to bring it to my guy. Hoping this can be done from under the hood instead

Lastly what is the part that our car actually uses?

Thank you

I believe all the LCI turn signals are not bulbs but rather modules. At least for the 335is, that's what it is. So pretty sure you will have to take the wheel out and even possibly the whole headlight. But yeah for sure we don't have the little access pannel either like the other cars, had to take out the wheel and fender liner when I replaced my Xenon main bulbs.

[b92]

Reporting back after a lengthy install of my LSD and other goodies:
- Wavetrac LSD via Diffsonline
- OEM 650i finned diff cover
- OEM M3 front diff bushings
- OEM 335is rear diff bushing
- Turner solid aluminum subframe bushings

Then while I was at it I decided to replace a few other things:
- ECS front & rear sway bars
- Stoptech stainless steel brake lines
- Clutch delay valve delete (long overdue..)
- BMS clutch stop (also long overdue..)

Rear subframe was completely removed and I was able to get the whole rear assembly cleaned up nice nice. I had a couple of small rust spots forming on the subframe that I was able to sand down and paint. Wish I had a picture of it before I re-installed, looked brand new going in besides some rust on the axles.

The aluminum subframe bushings took 2 weeks to put in, by far the biggest PITA job I've done on a car. I threw everything I had at it but ended up buying a 6 ton press from Harbor Freight and even that felt like it was maxed out at some points.

With the install behind me, I'm happy with the bushing setup I went with. I can confirm the solid subframe bushings add no NVH what's so ever. There's a reason why the new M cars come with solid bushings here. I'm glad I stuck with rubber diff bushings, it seems that's where most of the NVH comes from on the rear end.

I haven't really put the car through its paces yet, inspection just lapsed 3/31 so I have to get that taken care of. Been chasing an evap leak code which might have been from the fuel pump cover not being tight enough, need to put some miles on it to see if the code comes back.

Hoping to get out to a track for the first time this year! The car certainly feels ready for it.

[TheMidnightNarwhal]

Originally Posted by b92

Reporting back after a lengthy install of my LSD and other goodies:
- Wavetrac LSD via Diffsonline
- 650i finned diff cover
- OEM M3 front diff bushings
- OEM 335is rear diff bushing
- Turner solid aluminum subframe bushings

Then while I was at it I decided to replace a few other things:
- ECS front & rear sway bars
- Stoptech stainless steel brake lines
- Clutch delay valve delete (long overdue..)

Rear subframe was completely removed and I was able to get the whole rear assembly cleaned up nice nice. I had a couple of small rust spots forming on the subframe that I was able to sand down and paint. Wish I had a picture of it before I re-installed, looked brand new going in besides some rust on the axles.

The aluminum subframe bushings took 2 weeks to put in, by far the biggest PITA job I've done on a car. I threw everything I had at it but ended up buying a 6 ton press from Harbor Freight and even that felt like it was maxed out at some points.

With the install behind me, I'm happy with the bushing setup I went with. I can confirm the solid subframe bushings add no NVH what's so ever. There's a reason why the new M cars come with solid bushings here. I'm glad I stuck with rubber diff bushings, it seems that's where most of the NVH comes from on the rear end.

I haven't really put the car through its paces yet, inspection just lapsed 3/31 so I have to get that taken care of. Been chasing an evap leak code which might have been from the fuel pump cover not being tight enough, need to put some miles on it to see if the code comes back.

Hoping to get out to a track for the first time this year! The car certainly feels ready for it.

Nie upgrade! Your car must feel really different to drive?

Curious questions did you do any upgrade to the oil pan (like to avoid starvation frim high G's on track) and are your engine and transmission mounts still the stock ones?

[BSM n54iS]

Originally Posted by b92

Reporting back after a lengthy install of my LSD and other goodies:
- Wavetrac LSD via Diffsonline
- 650i finned diff cover
- OEM M3 front diff bushings
- OEM 335is rear diff bushing
- Turner solid aluminum subframe bushings

Then while I was at it I decided to replace a few other things:
- ECS front & rear sway bars
- Stoptech stainless steel brake lines
- Clutch delay valve delete (long overdue..)

Rear subframe was completely removed and I was able to get the whole rear assembly cleaned up nice nice. I had a couple of small rust spots forming on the subframe that I was able to sand down and paint. Wish I had a picture of it before I re-installed, looked brand new going in besides some rust on the axles.

The aluminum subframe bushings took 2 weeks to put in, by far the biggest PITA job I've done on a car. I threw everything I had at it but ended up buying a 6 ton press from Harbor Freight and even that felt like it was maxed out at some points.

With the install behind me, I'm happy with the bushing setup I went with. I can confirm the solid subframe bushings add no NVH what's so ever. There's a reason why the new M cars come with solid bushings here. I'm glad I stuck with rubber diff bushings, it seems that's where most of the NVH comes from on the rear end.

I haven't really put the car through its paces yet, inspection just lapsed 3/31 so I have to get that taken care of. Been chasing an evap leak code which might have been from the fuel pump cover not being tight enough, need to put some miles on it to see if the code comes back.

Hoping to get out to a track for the first time this year! The car certainly feels ready for it.

Did you by chance put a small chamfer onto the subframe to try and help inserting them in?

[b92]

Originally Posted by TheMidnightNarwhal

Nie upgrade! Your car must feel really different to drive?

Curious questions did you do any upgrade to the oil pan (like to avoid starvation frim high G's on track) and are your engine and transmission mounts still the stock ones?

No upgrades to the oil pan, wasn't aware this was an issue so I will look into it.

Engine mounts are the stock 3335is ones, I replaced them last year when I replaced my turbos. Transmission mounts are the Rogue Engineering ones, replaced at the same time.

Transmissions mounts are worthwhile upgrade, shifter feels more firm and direct, no slop. With the mounts, BMS clutch stop, CDV delete, and fresh fluid, shifts feel grrrrreat. These combined are worth the $100 or so investment. I don't see a need to upgrade past these for a street car, although some might disagree.

Last thing left to do is control arms, besides those I've replaced all other bushings; I have 75k miles on the odometer. I'm getting married in September so no more car expenditures until then! Diff did enough damage to the wallet lol.

[b92]

Originally Posted by BdSM n54iS

Did you by chance put a small chamfer onto the subframe to try and help inserting them in?

The aluminum bushings have a chamfer on them to started. I left them in dry ice overnight and I was able to get them in about halfway, but then they were stuck there. I tried for a couples night to get them out but there was no budge, crazy. That was before the press, the press popped them out no problem.

Even with the press getting those suckers in was difficult. Using a micrometer, the diameter of the bushings is actually 0.5mm wider than the hole in the subframe! I don't see how installing these without a press would be possible.

[BSM n54iS]

Originally Posted by b92

The aluminum bushings have a chamfer on them to started. I left them in dry ice overnight and I was able to get them in about halfway, but then they were stuck there. I tried for a couples night to get them out but there was no budge, crazy. That was before the press, the press popped them out no problem.

Even with the press getting those suckers in was difficult. Using a micrometer, the diameter of the bushings is actually 0.5mm wider than the hole in the subframe! I don't see how installing these without a press would be possible.

LN2 I guess would be the only real surefire way, that is crazy tight though

[TheMidnightNarwhal]

Originally Posted by b92

No upgrades to the oil pan, wasn't aware this was an issue so I will look into it.

Engine mounts are the stock 3335is ones, I replaced them last year when I replaced my turbos. Transmission mounts are the Rogue Engineering ones, replaced at the same time.

Transmissions mounts are worthwhile upgrade, shifter feels more firm and direct, no slop. With the mounts, BMS clutch stop, CDV delete, and fresh fluid, shifts feel grrrrreat. These combined are worth the $100 or so investment. I don't see a need to upgrade past these for a street car, although some might disagree.

Last thing left to do is control arms, besides those I've replaced all other bushings; I have 75k miles on the odometer. I'm getting married in September so no more car expenditures until then! Diff did enough damage to the wallet lol.

Yeah but also I'm not 100% sure about it either but yeah look it up. I think it really only happens with crazy sticky tires and getting real high Gs but yeah if you are going for a track car might be a good idea to see for those options.

Thanks for the info I was considering upgrading the engine mounts and tranny mounts to Revshift 80A but maybe I'll just start with the tranny mounts for now. I'm DCT though but still I was reading how it gives nice feedback and all that.

Gotta take out my camshafts here to inspect the cam bearing ledge as I suspect I have this issue. If I don't fuck up the job and don't blow my motor I'll invest in those mods And congrats on the marriage ha!

[Chadi335is]

Looking to add spacer… Im on Dinan springs and B8s. Car is a slightly lowered in the rear with 225f/255r on stock 313.

What size spacers would be ideal with rubbing?

[BSM n54iS]

Originally Posted by Chadi335is

Looking to add spacer… Im on Dinan springs and B8s. Car is a slightly lowered in the rear with 225f/255r on stock 313.

What size spacers would be ideal with rubbing?

With rubbing? I'd go for 30mm front 45mm rear...

Without rubbing though lol I'm on 12.5f/15r and 235/265 only rubbing on front fender cooling ducts on full lock. 225/255 shouldn't rub

[Chadi335is]

Originally Posted by BdSM n54iS

With rubbing? I'd go for 30mm front 45mm rear...

Without rubbing though lol I'm on 12.5f/15r and 235/265 only rubbing on front fender cooling ducts on full lock. 225/255 shouldn't rub

Had the 12f/15r wheel spacers installed and I get rubbing going over road dips and at full turn.
Im on 225/255 with MPS4S. Not sure if it's because the tires are beefier?

Is 10f/12r is a better setup? Or 10 all around?

[Phil325i]

Originally Posted by Chadi335is

Had the 12f/15r wheel spacers installed and I get rubbing going over road dips and at full turn.
Im on 225/255 with MPS4S. Not sure if it's because the tires are beefier?

Is 10f/12r is a better setup? Or 10 all around?

Remove your wheels and inspect your arches. You'll probably find the rubbing is only on a small area which can be eliminated by slight arch rolling.