[matamua]

I bought a paddle wheel for my 7/07 e93 335i.

Based on everything I read it should have been a straight swap with the BMS harness that makes it "plug and play". I followed the instructions on their website completely. I've read every thread on the forum about the paddle swap.

It's not playing.

I've hooked it up and unhooked it about 3 times now. I'm 100% positive. I even hooked things up with it all torn apart so I could make sure.

My windshield wipers will not shut off or respond. Blinkers aren't turning on.
I've got a slew of codes:

Engine-DME codes:
CD95
2F80

ABS-DSC codes:
D373
5E3F
5E51
D364
D373

FRM2 Codes:
931F
931E
931D

INSTR codes:
A3A9

JBE codes:
C914

I even went back to my original wheel and shit is still not right. I'm going to lose my mind.

Now on my original wheel, even after clearing codes and trying to reset the SAS, I get the following codes:

Engine DME:
CD95 - cruise control/ACC faulty receiver DME transmitter DSC/SZL/LWS/ACC

ABS-DSC:
D373 - Steering column switch cluster, missing, receiver DSC, transmitter steering column switch cluster/LWS
5E3F - steering column switch center: coding DSC required
5E51 - steering angle sensor serial number invalid
D364 - missing, receiver DSC, transmitter KOMBI
D373 - steering column switch cluster missing, DSC, transmitter steering column switch cluster/LWS

FRM2 Codes:
931F - analogue switch steering column, headlight flasher beam, faulty
931E -analogue switch steering column direction indicator, right faulty
931D - analogue switch steering column direction indicator, left faulty

INSTR codes:
A3A9 - column switch cluster signal receiver instrument panel, transmitter footwell module

I've got lights. I've got radio. I don't think it's FRM for that reason.

I've got no blinkers but have hazards. No high beams. No stalk control check. No cruise. No steering wheel volume, no seek, no phone.

Sounds to me like something is f'd with the switch cluster.

Thoughts?

[roadkillrob]

Your battery is low if the wipers go on and won't go off or is on the way out. If your battery is low you will get a million codes also, I would get it charging or run it for a while if it will start.

[matamua]

Originally Posted by roadkillrob

Your battery is low if the wipers go on and won't go off or is on the way out. If your battery is low you will get a million codes also, I would get it charging or run it for a while if it will start.

Totally starts and drives fine. I had to unhook the negative terminal to take the airbag off.

[matamua]

When I try to test out ACC with my foxwell, I get "no communicating". Same thing with high beam assist.

[porsche959]

Is your clockspring working fine? Sometimes the wires inside rip when doing the swap

[matamua]

Originally Posted by porsche959

Is your clockspring working fine? Sometimes the wires inside rip when doing the swap

I just ripped it all apart again.

I pulled the switch cluster off and one of the pins was barely not seated.

I've put it all back together and cleared codes. Now it's time for a test drive. So far it doesn't look like the paddles aren't working, but everything else is.

[gamesfrager]

Should be enough to answer all your questions about paddles retrofit.

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=361439

[matamua]

Originally Posted by gamesfrager

Should be enough to answer all your questions about paddles retrofit.

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=361439

I'd read that, and pretty much every other thread.

The one thing that confused me was the step of getting the harness with the gray lever back in the back of the switch cluster after adding the BMS harness.

The BMS instructions talk about how you need to make sure the gray lever is fully closed or things won't work. What they don't mention is that it needs to be fully open when you insert the harness into the cluster and THEN you close it, that gray lever pulls the harness onto the pins when fully closed—that's what solved my problem.

After the test drive everything except the paddles works great.

From what I read, it wasn't entirely clear that you'd need new MF buttons, but it looks like I do. The BMS instructions have a spot at the bottom that mention needing 61319123287 buttons.

I had seen that people who were dremeling/cutting into their wheels to add paddles needed the 61319123287 buttons which made sense to me because they didn't have paddle compatible buttons on their existing wheel, but not anyone who had bought a pre-LCI sport wheel to swap from a car with paddles already on it. It does not make sense to me intuitively that would be the case. Why would you need different MF buttons if the wheel you bought was designed to use the paddles with the buttons that came on it?

I found a thread last night where after the swap someone was in my same position and swapped buttons with a good result. I'm trying to source some now.

[gamesfrager]

No need for othe parts. You just need to modify the connection between the paddles. See my post with diagram on the last page.

..

[matamua]

Originally Posted by gamesfrager

No need for othe parts. You just need to modify the connection between the paddles. See my post with diagram on the last page.

..

So if I bought the BMS harness and have it installed with SSG paddles, I can use a 4 wire set of MF buttons if I follow your wiring diagram?

I've got a pre-LCI set wheel on a pre-LCI car if that makes a difference.

[matamua]

Originally Posted by gamesfrager

No need for othe parts. You just need to modify the connection between the paddles. See my post with diagram on the last page.

..

After some swearing and soldering, I'm up and running now. Can shift with the paddles from drive, but curiously won't go all the way to M1 unless I bump it over to DS and use the stick.

I also did the pin switch on the L paddle connector so that when I pull on the L, it shifts to a lower gear and the R remains pull/shift higher.

Turns out if you do use the BMS harness, you do need other parts. For whatever reason, it's not sufficient to have buttons that came from the factory on a wheel with paddles, but you actually need the 61319123287 MF buttons.

If you make your own harness it appears things are different, though not sure why that is.

Moral of the story: don't just look at the buttons and think they'll work to put paddles on a car that didn't come with them. Even if the parts guy says they'll work, if you are using the BMS harness, you need the 61319123287 MF buttons.

All in I was $320 for this mod. $175 for the wheel, $95 for the harness and $50 for the buttons from bluewater328. If you are buying them on eBay or from BMW, count on >$200.

[bluewater328]

Originally Posted by matamua

After some swearing and soldering, I'm up and running now. Can shift with the paddles from drive, but curiously won't go all the way to M1 unless I bump it over to DS and use the stick.

I also did the pin switch on the L paddle connector so that when I pull on the L, it shifts to a lower gear and the R remains pull/shift higher.

Turns out if you do use the BMS harness, you do need other parts. For whatever reason, it's not sufficient to have buttons that came from the factory on a wheel with paddles, but you actually need the 61319123287 MF buttons.

If you make your own harness it appears things are different, though not sure why that is.

Moral of the story: don't just look at the buttons and think they'll work to put paddles on a car that didn't come with them. Even if the parts guy says they'll work, if you are using the BMS harness, you need the 61319123287 MF buttons.

All in I was $320 for this mod. $175 for the wheel, $95 for the harness and $50 for the buttons from bluewater328. If you are buying them on eBay or from BMW, count on >$200.

Awesome. Glad everything worked out.

I will say as a caveat that you may NOT need those buttons IF your donor wheel already had paddles that you are utilizing ie you got the whole steering wheel in tact (and hence the right 6-pin MF buttons). That's basically why I had extras. That was for an LCI paddle wheel — so weird that it turned out that way for you.

LCI paddles would still need to be soldered regardless, but that the other exception.


EDIT:!Wait are you saying you can't shift while in DS via the paddles? Shifting in D should yield you temporary shifts that get overrided by AT as you drive (few seconds later). Shifting in DS should let you go M1-6 with the paddles or knob (with AT shift downs as you lower speed — usually down to M2/M1 at/near full stops)

[matamua]

Originally Posted by bluewater328

Awesome. Glad everything worked out.

I will say as a caveat that you may NOT need those buttons IF your donor wheel already had paddles that you are utilizing ie you got the whole steering wheel in tact (and hence the right 6-pin MF buttons). That's basically why I had extras. That was for an LCI paddle wheel — so weird that it turned out that way for you.

LCI paddles would still need to be soldered regardless, but that the other exception.


EDIT:!Wait are you saying you can't shift while in DS via the paddles? Shifting in D should yield you temporary shifts that get overrided by AT as you drive (few seconds later). Shifting in DS should let you go M1-6 with the paddles or knob (with AT shift downs as you lower speed — usually down to M2/M1 at/near full stops)

I can use the paddles in D or DS. What I'm saying is that even at a complete stop it only goes down to M2 with the paddles, whereas with the stick I can get it down to M1.

I did have a steering wheel with a six wire set of MF buttons—came together originally with the wheel/paddles that I bought, but the part number was different. In spite of hooking it up correctly and obviously having all the paddle hookups, it didn't work (though all the MF buttons did). There was nothing wrong with the connectors from the MF buttons to the paddles.

It only worked after I swapped the MF buttons for the set I bought from you.

This also happened with another user in the same set of circumstances—bought a wheel/buttons/paddles that came as a takeoff. His didn't work either until he swapped MF buttons in spite of getting a wheel/paddle/button combo that came off of car where it was already set up for paddles (and presumably worked). He too had all the MF buttons working and the only thing he didn't have was paddles—makes zero sense to me why this would be the case.

[bluewater328]

Originally Posted by matamua

I can use the paddles in D or DS. What I'm saying is that even at a complete stop it only goes down to M2 with the paddles, whereas with the stick I can get it down to M1.

I did have a steering wheel with a six wire set of MF buttons—came together originally with the wheel/paddles that I bought, but the part number was different. In spite of hooking it up correctly and obviously having all the paddle hookups, it didn't work (though all the MF buttons did). There was nothing wrong with the connectors from the MF buttons to the paddles.

It only worked after I swapped the MF buttons for the set I bought from you.

This also happened with another user in the same set of circumstances—bought a wheel/buttons/paddles that came as a takeoff. His didn't work either until he swapped MF buttons in spite of getting a wheel/paddle/button combo that came off of car where it was already set up for paddles (and presumably worked). He too had all the MF buttons working and the only thing he didn't have was paddles—makes zero sense to me why this would be the case.

I think somewhere you mentioned that you had the push/pull combo -- that's the key. While doing the self-wire makes everything a little more possible (and confusing), I think BMS says somewhere specifically on their instructions that for push/pull rewires you have to get it. LCI buttons that had a functioning paddles attached, were the specific exception (that could keep their own MF buttons)...and even that required me to do some soldering/removing in the paddle boards.

[gamesfrager]

And to add my own experience to this confusion.

- car: E90 lci standard steering wheel
- steering wheel: push/pull got it from a wreck as a whole (steering wheel, airbag, multi function buttons)
- setup: had to bridge pin #2 between the paddles and wire directly to clockspring (see my post on the other thread). No BMS harness, tapped into blue wires by gear shifter
- experience at stop and in D: I can go M+ and M-
- experince while driving in D/DS: can go M+ but no M-, car will down shift when it feels to

[matamua]

Originally Posted by gamesfrager

And to add my own experience to this confusion.

- car: E90 lci standard steering wheel
- steering wheel: push/pull got it from a wreck as a whole (steering wheel, airbag, multi function buttons)
- setup: had to bridge pin #2 between the paddles and wire directly to clockspring (see my post on the other thread). No BMS harness, tapped into blue wires by gear shifter
- experience at stop and in D: I can go M+ and M-
- experince while driving in D/DS: can go M+ but no M-, car will down shift when it feels to

Do you get all the way into M1 with paddles at either a stop or while driving? I don't.

I also checked re: the downshifting thing you mentioned after driving a bit more—I have the same issue, but can force a downshift with the stick, just not paddles, which is a disappointment.

[bluewater328]

Originally Posted by matamua

Do you get all the way into M1 with paddles at either a stop or while driving? I don't.

I also checked re: the downshifting thing you mentioned after driving a bit more—I have the same issue, but can force a downshift with the stick, just not paddles, which is a disappointment.

There is something off here. Car will not let you harm it, but you should be able to get to M1 at a stop. It will downshift on its own to second when you come to a stop.

But you should be able to downshift while driving with the paddles.

[gamesfrager]

Oh, at a stop yes, I can go all the way down to M1, but while driving I cannot go down a gear at all. Even if I have just increased it to M6 without changing how much I'm pressing on the gas pedal.

[matamua]

Originally Posted by gamesfrager

Oh, at a stop yes, I can go all the way down to M1, but while driving I cannot go down a gear at all. Even if I have just increased it to M6 without changing how much I'm pressing on the gas pedal.

That's weird. I can't do it with a push of the right paddle or a pull of the left (now that I switched pins).

I'm not sure why it is this way, also not sure I'll ever know. My desire to rip things apart again is low, especially if diagnosing it involves spending $250 for a new set of MF buttons.

[matamua]

After switching buttons, it all works.